Vladivostok

Vladivostok [1] is a city in Russia, and serves as the eastern terminus of the Trans-Siberian Railway. Most travelers arrive here at the end or the beginning of a trip on the Trans-Siberian; as such, allotting time to explore Vladivostok is usually an afterthought to making the next connection in the journey. But it has enough attractions and atmosphere to support a couple of days, and it'll likely be your first or last glimpse of solid ground for a while, so use it well.

Culture and History

Golden Horn Bay, along the south of the city center, is the home of the Russian Pacific Fleet. For that reason, Vladivostok was off-limits to foreigners during most of the Soviet era until 1992, when it was re-opened for tourism. The city center, at the edge of the water, has sweeping boulevards of ornate, century-old buildings; magnificent, decaying, and in dire need of a scrub. Further out, on the steep hills overlooking the bay, a similarly decaying group of Soviet blocks provide accommodations for most of the city's residents.

Temperature

No great mystery here — January is bitterly cold at -14 C, and August is fairly warm at +24 C. September brings the most sun and pleasant temperatures.

Travel to Vladivostok - Visa Requirements

By train

The Trans-Siberian Railway runs between Vladivostok and Moscow, with stops in major Russian cities like Irkutsk, Novosibirsk, and Ekaterinberg. Fares are from $200 single. Trains to Harbin, China take around 30 hours and cost $50.

By boat

Mixed-use ferries run the route between Japan and Vladivostok, carrying passengers and major commercial goods (like cars and engine blocks). The Far Eastern Shipping Company (FESCO) ferries connect with the Fushiki port in Takaoka. Fares are from ¥48,400 one-way and the trip takes two nights, meals included and booze on sale to pass the time. (Don't count on many amenities, though; a ship might show a swimming pool on the deck plan, for example, but you'll find it drained to store motorcycles once you're aboard.) Ferries both ways leave on Friday evening and arrive two days later on Sunday morning. You'll need to arrive at the port a few hours early for immigration procedures, as these are done en masse with loads of Russian tourists. Schedules, prices, and tickets are available from FESCO's official agent in Japan, Business Intour Service [2], who have offices in Tokyo and Vladivostok.

There is also a service connecting Vladivostok and Sokcho, South Korea. It costs ~$200 USD and takes two days. One ship leaves Sokcho each week, on Thursday, although they become more frequent in the summer months (June-August). The plans are afoot to continue this route to Japanese fishing port of Sakaiminato, with fare preliminarily set at ~$250. You can obtain neccessary visas in local Japanese (Verkhneportovaya st. 46) and Korean (Pologaya st. 19) consulates, however passengers of the tourist ferries that calls at three or more ports should be able to obtain a special 3-day visa directly at the port of entry. Please note that Sakaiminato is a small and remote town, and access to major Japanese cities is limited (closest one is Kyoto, which is about three hours by local train, there are also planes to Tokyo and Nagoya, but they are rather expensive). The service is slated to start in June 2009.

It is also possible to go anywhere in the world (and come from anywhere as well) by booking a berth on a cargo boat. Usual caveats of freighter travel apply, though (it's definitely NOT for a casual tourist), and one need to keep in mind that Russian border and customs officials aren't used to people traveling this way.

The ferry port is right next to the train station, so the two are interchangeable for purposes of orientation.

Flights and airtickets to Vladivostok

Vladivostok International Airport (IATA: VVO, ICAO: UHWW) is located near Artyom, some 44 km off the city center, has two airfields with four paved runways, and is able to receive all types of aircraft. Principal carriers include Aeroflot Russian Airlines [3], Domodedovo Airlines [4], Kras Air [5] and Vladivostok Air [6]. Korean Air [7] also offers flights from the continental US via Seoul-Incheon. Completion of the new international terminal in Haneda airport and subsequent increase in its capacity may lead to opening a direct scheduled flight by ANA to Tokyo, which is now served only by chartered flights to Narita airport.

The international terminal is very small and usually crowded, but the domestic terminal (located just next door to international one) recently underwent a major renovation. As Vladivostok is slated to receive the APEC summit in 2012, the planning of further upgrades are underway (mainly, the increase of the international terminal capacity and transport infrastructure). Currently, the main connection from the airport to the city is via local and shuttle buses (ticket price 55 R one-way).

Buses to Vladivostok

There are a number of local bus routes from most suburban locations and nearby towns as well. Most places around the region are linked to Vladivostok by bus. There are also several international routes, linking Vladivostok to cities in northeastern China such as Harbin, Mudanjiang and Suifenhe. It takes about five hours to get to the city from the Chinese border, and the road goes through one of the most picturesque areas of the Russian Far East.

Tours and Getting around Vladivostok

By public transport

Vladivostok has a wide range of transportation, from streetcars to trolleybuses to funicular railway. By far the most common is the bus, both large route buses and marshrutka shared taxis (which generally follow bus routes). Buses are extremely crowded but frequent; the fare is a flat 11 R as of 2008, paid to the driver. Hop on bus in the back and then pay the driver as you exit from the front.

Access to the outlying areas is generally best done by bus or suburban commuter train. The train station is very accessible and a great way to see neighboring cities like Khabarovsk.

By taxi

There are a number of taxi companies, and hailing one is easy. There's no meter, because most companies and freelance drivers charge a flat rate of ~300 R ($12) for one hour.

By car

Although it is the main port of used Japanese car imports in Russia, the century-old streets of Vladivostok are ill suited to heavy traffic. They are usually filled to capacity and traffic jams are common, especially in rush hours. The local driving style is also rather aggressive, and speeding, cutting off, and tailgating are widespread.

By foot

The city center is only a short walk from the train station, and most of the sights can be reached easily on foot. Aleutskaya runs north/south, passing the train station; head north to Svetlanskaya, which is the main east/west road for the city.

As much of Vladivostok is situated on steep hills, walking and bicycle access can be physically demanding. The ice and wind mostly preclude bicycle use in winter.

Vladivostok tourist attractions and sightseeing

If you've arrived in Vladivostok on the Trans-Siberian, at the end of a trip that began in Moscow, head straight for Sportivnaya Harbor. The still waters of the sea will likely provide sweet relief after several days on the train. However, if you're fresh off a ferry from Japan or Korea, head up to Svetlanskaya and Ploschad Bortsoy Revolutsy for a stroll to get your sea legs back. (Both destinations usually have food and drink vendors if you're famished.)

Public spaces

Russia's Pacific Fleet is parked in the waters off the coast of Vladivostok, in Golden Horn Bay. A walk along the waterfront on Korabelnaya nab offers the closest views; to get any closer, you'll have to enlist. Photographs with an average-sized camera shouldn't attract any trouble, but be mindful of your surroundings lest an enterprising police officer invent a fine for you to pay.

• Ploschad Bortsov Revolutsy(Central Square), Svetlanskaya, between Aleutskaya and Uborevicha. This is a good place to relax and watch the locals at leisure. A pair of massive statues serve as Memorials to the Fighters for the Soviet Power in the Far East, in honor of those who brought this remote corner of Russia under Bolshevik control. Today, they're more a memorial to the power of local skateboarders. You might also have the chance to take in a protest march. The giant, strikingly ugly city administration building looms over the square. 

• Sportivnaya Harbor.  

Museums and memorials

If you're a connoisseur of Lenin statues, don't miss the one overlooking the train station from the west, next to the post office. There are also some interesting statues heading east on Svetlanskaya, both Soviet-era and abstract.

• Arsenev Regional History Museum, 20 Svetlanskaya St(At the intersection of Aleutskaya and Svetlanskaya), ☎ (4232) 41-40-82. Mostly a natural history museum, save for a few pieces of Stalinist kitsch and a tribute to Hollywood star and hometown hero Yul Brynner. There are some interesting displays on pre-Russian settlers and their techniques for hunting and survival, but the death-dance between the tiger and the bear has to be seen to be believed. 

• Museum Vladivostok Fortress, 4-a Batareynaya St, ☎ (4232) 40-08-96, [8]. 10AM-6PM daily. Overlooking the sea, these fortifications were built more than a century ago to guard against invasion from Japan. Today, the grounds are cluttered with defused bombs, chain guns, and small military vehicles. Those can be visited for free; there's a small fee to go inside the several rooms of the fort, which feature displays on the history of Russia's presence in the region and some intricate dioramas. 

• Naval Memorial, Korabelnaya nab.  

• Primorsky State Art Gallery, 12 Aleutskaya St, ☎ (4232) 41-11-95. Traveling art exhibitions and a well-regarded collection of classic European masters. 

• C-56 Submarine, Korabelnaya nab. You can't board the Pacific Fleet, but this submarine is parked on land, by the Naval Memorial, and welcomes visitors; the interior is pretty well-preserved, and you can monkey around more or less unattended while you're inside. There's usually someone selling Soviet pins and military gear outside. 

• Vladivostok Station, Aleutskaya St. Even if your journey doesn't involve trains, the beautiful old Vladivostok Station is worth a look. 

Vladivostok city tours

If you'd like to swim, the beach at Sportivnaya Harbor is the place to do it (not Golden Horn Bay, where the Pacific Fleet is parked). Be sure to salute the half-submerged mermaid statue out in the water. Alternately, in the winter, locals aren't shy about strolling out on ice.

• Dinamo Stadium, ul Batareynaya, just off Sportivnaya Harbor. Home of FC Luch-Energia Vladivostok [9], who play in the Russian Premier League of professional soccer (or down in the First Division, as their fortunes go). 

• SK Olimpiets. Home of Spartak Primorje [10], who play in the Russian Super League of professional basketball. 

Learn

The Far Eastern National University [11] is one of the top five Russian universities and has over 35,000 students. It offers Russian courses online [12] for foreigners at $200 a credit or on campus. The Vladivostok State University of Economics [13] also offers Russian courses for foreigners [14] at decent prices. Both universities can set you up in their dorms as well as do the necessary paperwork for you to study in Russia.

Vladivostok souvenirs and shopping

There's a GUM department store on Svetlanskaya, across from Ploschad Bortsoy Revolutsy, and electronic stores further east that can help with power converters and the like.

Local markets are spread throughout Vladivostok and provide the basic groceries for a neighborhood. Some even have a butcher but most all provide sausages and frozen meat. Larger markets sell clothing, shoes, and everything else imaginable in addition to food.

Sportivnaya Market is the largest market in Vladivostok. Its maze-like warrens are full of people selling most everything. There is a large Chinese presence here, and knockoffs and Chinese imports abound. The range of food sold at this market is fabulous but is probably a bit unusual for everyday fare.

Vladivostok Restaurants: cheap, moderate and expensive

Sunday morning brunch at the Vlad Inn (below) is a tradition for the handful of ex-pats living in the city.

• cafe Cuckoo, Okeanskiy pr 1a(city centre, near the overseas passenger terminal and main city square), ☎ (4232)995858, [15]. 10AM-2AM daily. This restaurant offers contemporary European cuisine. The head chef, Adriano Cavalieri, came from Melbourne, Australia. There is outdoor and indoor seating for approximately 100 people. 

Vladivostok nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs

• club Cuckoo, Okeanskiy pr-t 1a(city centre, near the overseas passenger terminal and main city square), ☎ (4232)995858, [16]. F-Sa 11PM-6AM. The most glamorous night club in the city. The very strict 'door bitch' however will let the foreigners in, just because they speak English. Club hosts best parties in town, including DJs from Moscow and London. ticket 500 R ($20) at door; drinks 150-350 R ($6-$14).  

Vladivostok cheap and luxurious hotels, youth hostels and lodging

Hotels

The hotels in the city center are targets for huge tour groups, who block out availability for weeks on end, so reserve in advance if possible.

• Hotel Moryak, 38 Posyetskaya St, ☎ (4232) 49-94-99. Cheap, serviceable accommodations a short walk uphill from the city center. English isn't spoken, but the staff are accustomed to foreign visitors. Look for the odd aquatic sign outside.Rooms from $35.  

• Hotel Hyundai, 29 Semenovskaya St, ☎ (4232) 40-22-33(fax: (4232) 40-70-08), [17]. The height of luxury in Vladivostok, with full business facilities, swimming pool and fitness center, bar, casino, and restaurant on-site. Rooms have satellite TV and air conditioning. Online booking is available.Rooms from 6000R.  

• Hotel Vladivostok, 10 Naberezhnaya St, ☎ (4232) 41-28-08(fax: (4232) 41-20-21), [18]. Budget and somewhat more upscale rooms, with Wi-Fi and a buffet breakfast; there's a restaurant on-site. Online booking available (with limited Russian). About a ten minute walk from the train station. It's quite an ugly building from the outside, but it faces a nice view to the sea. Bookings may also be available at the Hotel Amursky Zaiv, operated by the same management, across the street.Rooms from 2200R.  

• Vlad Inn, #35, 8-th Street Sanatornaya, ☎ (4232) 38-88-88(fax: 1 (508) 590-2432), [19]. Reservations can be made online. They offer a free pickup service from the airport. It's a Western-managed hotel with English-speaking staff. Also has a very well-reviewed restaurant on premises. To reach the Vlad Inn, take an elektrichki (commuter train) out to Sanaturnaya (approximately six stops outbound from the Vladivostok train station). From there, it is a short walk. Rooms from $139.  

Dorms

Russian dorm rooms in Vladivostok range from awful to OK. Generally, foreigners are dormed in reasonable accommodations, but you should know exactly what you are getting into before arriving. Important things you might take for granted include: private or communal kitchen and bathrooms, number of roommates, number of clothing washers and dryers.

The Far Eastern National University (above) offers reasonable dorm rooms but foreigners are separated from Russian students, so if you are looking for more Russian immersion, ask them about arranging a home stay.

Stay safe

A few roads can only be crossed by poorly-lit underground passageways, which can be a bit nerve-wracking at night. Beggars tend to congregate near the doors, including children with very quick hands, so cover your pockets as you pass.

Although you'll see plenty of locals stripping down for a swim on the boardwalks off Naberezhnaya, take care; there is plenty of rusted metal about. Stick to the beach unless you're very confident in your tetanus shots.

Contact

The main post office is on the other side of Aleutskaya from the train station. Internet access is available on the first floor of the post office. There are a few Internet cafes in the town center.

ATMs are easy to find, and most are connected to international bank networks. Otherwise, many hotels have exchange desks, although some have exchange rates decidedly skewed in their favor. There will also be dodgy money-changers near Sportivnyaya Harbor.

The Vladivostok News [20] and Vladivostok Times [21] publish online English-language newspapers.

Get out

• The Trans-Siberian Railway will be the means of exit by most, either heading east towards Moscow or into China. Either way, the next major stop is the Russian city of Khabarovsk, some 700km off, the administrative center for the region.

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