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Vieques
Vieques is a Caribbean island belonging to Puerto Rico, also known as Isla Nena or Little Girl Island. It is a relatively small, rural island about 18 miles east of Puerto Rico. It is about 22 miles long and 4 miles wide.
Vieques maintains a rural character, despite increasing tourist interest. Horses and chickens run wild in the streets. Expect to hear roosters and dogs during the night and morning while you're trying to sleep.
Cities
Vieques is an island municipality of Puerto Rico with two main towns.
- Isabel Segunda or Isabel II is where most of the island's population lives. Isabel II is on the northern side of Vieques.
- Esperanza is a smaller town which caters more to tourists. It is on the southern side of the island facing the Caribbean Sea.
Other destinations
What makes the Island of Vieques unique is the recent history. For many years, the island was home to a major US naval base. This included training, storage of munitions, and even target practice. During the early years of this century, there was a major dispute about the continued operation of the facility. As a result, most of the area formally controlled by the military was turned over to the US Park Service. While there are still many restricted areas, a large part of the former military base are now open to the public.
Because of this past, the island was by-passed for major development. As a result, instead of lots of chain hotels and condos, one discovers an undeveloped Caribbean island. This is what makes the bioluminiscent bay (discussed below) one of the most vivid in the world. It also means that it is possible to find a remote beach where few will disturb you during an entire day. (The beaches are named for colors--presumably given by the military.) These beaches are accessed by dirt/gravel roads off the main roadways. Rent a small truck/tracker/4X4 to get to the best beaches.
Culture and History
Talk
Spanish is the working language of locals and is used, however, with a population of U.S. mainlanders English is known by most but not all residents.
Travel to Vieques, visa requirements
Vieques has ferry service several times a day from Fajardo and once a day on weekdays to Culebra. It is also serviced by an airport with service to Fajardo and the Isla Grande and LMM/SJU international airports in San Juan.
The ferry from Fajardo will cost about $2 per person and takes about 1 hour. Airfare from San Juan runs between $50 - $90 per person and the flight lasts about 15 minutes.
Get around
The most convenient way to get around the island is by renting a car. You may also get around by using the publico (taxi) system. There are also scooter and bicycle rentals on the island.
- La Dulce Vida, ☎ +1 970-222-1007, [1]. Mountain bike rentals, delivered to most hotels and guesthouses. $25/day.
Vieques attractions and sightseeing
- The Bioluminescent Bay, or Mosquito Bay, is one of the most brilliant displays of the micro-organisms that cause water to light up in a blue-green glow whenever there is movement in the water. There are several boat tours out to the bay, including kayak trips (which are more ecologically sustainable). It is a must-see for anyone, and any visitor to the island should arrange a trip. Those who wish to visit the "Bio Bay" should arrange their trip around the lunar calendar. The micro-organisms are not visible under a full moon. During the 2 or 3 days before an after a full moon there are usually no boat tours of the bay.
- Isabel Segunda has the last Spanish fort built in the Caribbean (an interesting contrast to El Morro in San Juan).
- A stonehenge built by the Taino indians is incredible--if you can find it.
- Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust (Esperanza), ☎ (787) 741-8850 ((787) 741-8850, vcht@coqui.net, fax: (787) 741-2844), [2]. Hours: Tu. - Sa.: 10AM - 15PM. Su.: 11AM - 15PM. The VCHT is a small, but dedicated and fairly interesting museum, whose goal is to educate visitors about the cultural history of Vieques and Vieques' ecological system. The VCHT also has internet access and charges $3 for 30 minutes of Wi-fi internet access. Entrance is free.
City tours
Bio-Bay
The bioluminescent bay of Vieques, known as Mosquito Bay, is said to be one of the most spectacular bioluminiscent bays in Puerto Rico and the world. The bay has large numbers of dinoflagellates, who when stimulated glow to scare off predators.
Several businesses run tours to the bay for an average $30 per person. The best time to go on a night tour of the bay is when the sky is not very cloudy or if it is dark. If the moon is out then it will most likely be impossible to see the bay as it becomes illuminated. Even if the sky is cloudy and the moon is out your experience is very likely to be dull compared to moonless nights.
Also, do not use any chemicals such as lotions or bug spray (especially those containing DEET) because they harm the dinoflagellates. There are many kayaking tours to the bay so visitors will have to know how to paddle a kayak.
- Blue Caribe Kayaks, 149 Callle Flamboyan (Esperanza), ☎ (787) 741-2522. Blue Caribe Kayaks' tours to the Bio-bay start at 6:45PM and last about two hours. $30 per person.
- Aqua Frenzy Kayaks, 71 Rubi St. (Esperanza), ☎ (787) 741-0913, (787) 240-7985 (Cell) (aquafrenzy@hotmail.com). Ask for Timothy Raymond. Kayak and nature tours to the bioluminescent bay and mangroves, providing snorkeling and BBQ. $30 per person, $10 Extra if pickup needed.
Remote Beaches
One of the greatest things about this island is the ability to visit totally uncommercialized beaches. Since the island was once a military training area, large parts of the island are now part of the US Park Service. You drive down dirt roads to isolated beaches with crystal clear blue waters. Park your rental 'truck' under a palm tree and you may not see another person for the remainder of the morning.
The cons to the remoteness of Vieques' beaches lie in the petty theft problems occuring at some of the beaches. Thieves can either hide in bushes or ride up on horseback (Horses are not allowed on the beaches) and take a tourist's belongings. So when visiting a remote beach in Vieques leave your valuables at your lodging area or lock them in your vehicle. For a discussion on this topic, see Talk:Vieques.
Shopping, Vieques souvenirs
- Black Beard Sports, 101 Munoz Rivera, ☎ 741-1892, [3]. An outdoors activity shop with scuba, snorkeling, beach, biking and camping equipment. They also have a couple of computers available for internet access for the decent price of $3 for 30 minutes. If you're looking to only use some equipiment for a coule of days they have fair prices for renting equipiment by the day.
Good restaurants and cheap meals
- Carambola (Esperanza), [4]. Tuesday thru Sunday for dinner. Fine dining – renowned for serving the best food in Vieques created by Chef Xandra.
- Chez Shack. Billed as a tree house located in the Pilon Jungle, this is truly a unique, one-of-a-kind outdoor eating experience. While the surroundings are au naturale, the food is expertly prepared and exquisite. The place turns magic when the jungle turns pitch-black and the white Christmas lights brighten up the house in the jungle. Don't miss this experience.
- Chicken King. This local eatery has some of the best fried chicken and fries you can get on the island.
- Shauna's (Isabel II). If you want to dine with the locals come here. Brush up on your Spanish. They serve delicious, criollo Puerto Rican cuisine. Very reasonably priced, and some of the great flan.
- Trade Winds (Esperanza). A beautiful, oceanfront restaurant in Esperanza. Wonderful breakfasts, lunches and dinners serving traditional American fare, fresh seafood and tasty cocktails. This restaurant also boasts some of the best, commercial oceanfront views on the island.
- Richard's Cafe, Road 200 (Isabel II), ☎ (787) 741-5242. Service is seems attentive, however, the kitchen takes a painfully long time to cough up even the easiest food, like a fish sandwich. On the upside, the food was served pipping hot.
Vieques nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs.
- Duffy's (Esperanaza, adjacent to Banana's Guesthouse), ☎ (787) 741-7600. Opens daily at noon, except Mondays when Duffy's is closed.
- Blue Moon Bar & Grill (Esperanaza), [5]. Open 7 days a week, Tropical fares menu begins at 11am.
Hotels, youth hostels, lodging
- Inn on the Blue Horizon, Crrt. 996 Km 4.3 (Esperanza), ☎ 1-877-741-2583 (reservations@innonthebluehorizon.com), [6]. checkin: 2pm; checkout: 11am. The boutique hotel is set on the island's southern coastal road, less than a mile west of Esperanza. The Blue Horizon is situated on a bluff overlooking the waters of the Caribbean Sea. This 10 room hotel is perfect for couples.
- Amapola Inn, 144 Calle Flamboyan (Esperanza), ☎ 741-1382 (amapolavieques@aol.com, fax: 741-3704), [7].
- Banana's Guesthouse (Esperanza), ☎ 741-8700 (bananasvieques@gmail.com, fax: 741-0790), [8]. checkin: 1PM; checkout: 11AM. A decent guesthouse located on the southern coastline. Due to it's proximity to the coast air conditioning isn't really needed, so don't fret about getting AC and save a couple of bucks, especially as rooms non-AC rooms have a fan. $65 - 90 per night.
- Bravo Beach Hotel, ☎ (787) 741-1128 (info@bravobeachhotel.com), [9]. checkin: 3PM; checkout: 11AM.
- Martineau Bay Resort & Spa, State Route 200, ☎ (787) 741-4100 (fax: (787) 741-4171), [10]. checkin: 4PM; checkout: Noon.
- Martineau Belle Playa, ☎ (717) 202-5591 (martineaubelle@cupeles.com), [11].
- Crow's Nest Inn, ☎ (787) 741-0033 ((787) 741-0993, toll free: 1-877-8163-169, thenest@coqui.net, fax: (787) 741-1294), [12]. $114 for double occupancy, $124 for a garden suite or $225 for a two bedroom, two bath with a deck suite.
- Hotel Vieques Ocean View, 571 Plinio Peterson Street, ☎ (787) 741-3696 (info@hotelviequesoceanview.com, fax: (787) 741-1793), [13].
- Sea Gate Hotel, Ruthye and Penny Miller, Box 747, Vieques, PR 00765, ☎ (787) 741-4661, (787) 667 2805 (fax: (787) 741-2978), [14].
Stay safe
Vieques is a pretty safe island, but use common sense when visiting the more remote beaches. Leave your valuables such as passports, credit cards, and any other important documents and electronics at your place of lodging. Take enough cash for you to buy drinks and lunch on a beach day.
Cope
- Familia Rios Laundromat, ☎ (787) 374-6823. Hours: Mo.: 10AM -7PM. Tu.: Closed. Wed.: 10AM - 7PM. Th.: Closed. Fr.: 10AM - 7PM. Sa.: 10AM - 7PM. Su.: Closed. The business hours are apparently not set in stone, however it's rumored that should you call, you might be able to convince someone to open the door during what's supposed to be regular business hours.
Get out
The two most obvious options are the small island of Culebra to the north of Vieques, or Fajardo, which is connected to Vieques by regular ferry.
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