Ushuaia
Situated on the Beagle Strait, Ushuaia is the largest city in Argentine Tierra del Fuego, and arguably the southernmost city in the world. In the past, the town has been a missionary base, penal colony and naval base for the Argentine navy. Ushuaia is now a major tourist town, complete with casinos and nice restaurants, and commonly used as a base for hiking, winter sports and cruises to Antarctica.
Culture and History
In the late 19th century, the land that is now called Ushuaia was inhabited entirely by Yamana Indians and a handful of missionaries. At the time of writing (October 2005), there is allegedly one pure-blooded native-speaking Yamana Indian left. An excellent book on the history of the Yamana and their demise is The Uttermost Part of the Earth by E. Lucas Bridges, the son of one of the early missionaries. His father, Thomas Bridges, documented what he could of the Yamana language and found that it had a far larger vocabulary than the English language. Darwin, who famously sailed through the Beagle Channel, thought that the Yamana, were "the missing link".
Today the town is growing fast as a result of increased tourism since the 2002 economic crash. The government has encouraged this growth by designating Tierra del Fuego a virtually tax-free zone to encourage people to settle (many of the inhabitants of today's Ushuaia come from Chaco, in the north of Argentina). The cost of living however, is relatively high as all goods have to be transported long distances, usually by container ship.
Climate-wise, Ushuaia is warmer than many assume; although (arguably) the southernmost city in the world, it is no further south than Belfast is north, and temperatures rarely drop below -10. However, summers tend not to climb much above +12 and, as in all of Patagonia, strong winds add a significant wind chill factor.
Travel to Ushuaia, visa requirements
There are daily Aerolineas Argentinas flights from Buenos Aires. LAN Chile (through its LAN Express services) flies a few times a week (currently three) from Santiago de Chile, stopping over in Puerto Montt and Punta Arenas. Flights can be booked from the Aerolineas Argentinas office, as well as from some local travel agencies. The local LAN Chile representative is the Rumbo Sur travel agency. Online bookings are now (Feb 2006) possible from the sites above, although you might then have to pick up your tickets at the airline office/representative rather than at the airport. Buses from/to all destinations (apart from Puerto Natales) all stop at Rio Gallegos. It can be cheaper to just buy a ticket to Rio Gallegos and purchase an onward ticket from there.
Get around
There is no public transport around Tierra del Fuego. However, tours / transport can be booked through the Tourist Office (on San Martin) or through many of the hostels. Taxis are another option, costing, for example, Ar$8 to get from the city centre to either the airport or Glaciar Martial. There are also several car / bicycle hire companies.
Ushuaia attractions and sightseeing
- Museo MarÃtimo, Yagones y Gobernador Paz [1]. Located in an old prison displays a collection of the history of Tierra del Fuego.
- Estancia Haberton - Open only in the summer months, Estancia Haberton is a worthwhile trip for those interested in the Bridges family and their role in the local history.
- Presidio - Museum of the historical military prison of Ushuaia.
- Mastil de General Belgrano - A remote area west of the city of Ushuaia on Isla Redonda, paying tribute to one of the founders of Argentina, and to the navy cruiser named after him which was sunk by the UK in the Falklands War. It was a stop on one of the televised Amazing Race contests, and features a one-person post office for sending letters from the end of the world. Accessible by boat from Playa Larga (approx Can$20).
City tours
- Hike the Glacier Martial - Provided that you wear comfortable shoes and have the patience, a hike up the Glacier Martial will provide a very beautiful view of Ushuaia and the Beagle Chanel. There is also a single ski slope open during the winter months, and ski hire is available from the site.
- Catamaran trips - Catamaran trips will take you around the Beagle channel and give you nice views of the mountains, cormorants, sea lions and penguins.
- Tierra del Fuego National Park - This national park provide some nice day hikes on well marked trails.
- Cerro Castor - This centre for winter sports offers skiing and snowboarding. Nearby, you can also ride snowcats or husky sleighs.
- Kayak the Beagle Channel - Kayaks can be hired near the Aeroparque on the promontory jutting out from Ushuaia.
- Motonave Barracuda sail -ship trips will take you around the Beagle channel and give you nice views of the mountains, cormorants, sea lions and penguins www.motonavebarracuda.com.ar[2]
Good restaurants and cheap meals
- Opiparo, Maipu 1255, Tel: +54-2901-434022, info@opiparo.com.ar, [3]. The best pizza & pasta restaurant at the world's end.
- Kaupé, Roca 470, Tel: +54-2901-422704, Fax: +54-2901-422704, evivian@kaupe.com.ar, [4]. Expensive compared to other restaurants in Ushuaia, but the view is spectacular and the food is absolutely, positively guaranteed not to disappoint.
- Kuar, Perito Moreno 2232, Tel: +54-2901-???, info@kuar.com.ar, [5]. A couple of kilometers outside town, right above the rocks by the sea, breathtaking bay views and good live music scene, sophisticated and good but not outstanding and a bit pricey dining. If you don't mind the occasional dropping by of a bunch of gringos, be sure to book a table by the window in the restaurant area or to take a seat by the big wooden steps in the bar area.
Ushuaia nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs.
- Dublin Bar, on 9 de Julio, is popular with tourists.
- Galway Bar, on San Martin, is another popular Irish pub although it usually has less atmosphere than Dublin.
- Nautico, on Maipu, is Ushuaia's only real nightclub / disco, and is open until 6am on the weekends.
Hotels, youth hostels, lodging
Hotels in Ushuaia are often booked, especially during peak tourist season, thus it is advisable to arrive in Ushuaia with reservations.
- Tango B&B Ushuaia, [6] offers daily room service, excellent location, seven blocks away from the main street, really exclusive, with warm and drinkable water 24 hours available, free Internet, cable TV in the living room, optional TV in the room, conditioned atmospheres, safe box in front desk, buffet breakfast and the good quality that only the owners/hosts can give you! a Tango show free with the unique view of the Beagle channel and the Islands that surround it! e-mail: tangobyb@speedy.com.ar
- Hotel Albatros, Av. Maipú 505, Ph: (02901) 43-7300, Fax: (02901) 42-3206, reservas@albatroshotel.com.ar, [7]. Located on the waterfront near the docks, this hotel offers comfortable (although not particularly fancy) rooms and excellent service. Free wireless internet access is available to all visitors, the room price includes a continental breakfast, and the staff is helpful and speaks English. High season rates (as of January 2006) were US$150 for a single or double room, US$175 for a triple, and US$225 for a suite.
- Hotel Maitén
- Posada Costa Serena, Av. Roca 129, Ph: (02901) 43-7212, posadacostaserena@uolsinectis.com.ar, [8]. Located just next to Av. San Martin in the middle of town, this posada offers simple accommodation with an excellent position. Free wireless internet access is available in all rooms, 2 computers are available for the use of those without laptops, residents have full use of a kitchen, the room price includes all-day breakfast and snacks (e.g. coffee, cakes) and the managers are very friendly. Rates as of Mar 2007 are 100 pesos for a single and 110 pesos for a double or twin. Highly recommended.
Hostels on the other hand are numerous and even in mid summer you should have no problem finding a bed.
- Antarctica Hostel, [9]. One of the best hostels in town. Just opened recently. Free internet access and breakfast is included. Shared kitchen. Dorm bed Ar$16, double Ar$50.
- La Posada Del Duende (dorm: 20 pesos pp, double 40 pesos pp)
- Yakush Hostel, [10], at Piedrabuena & San Martin (the main street), tel. 435807 (English spoken). Opened in May, 2004. Very inexpensive, $25 pesos (usd$9) and well located. Clean, funky decorations, free email, 24hr hot water, private lockers in each room, TV, and music. Breakfast included. Great staff - hang out, talk, and share a mate or five!
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