Ukraine

Ukraine (Ukrayina) is a country in Eastern Europe. It lies at the northwest end of the Black Sea, with Russia to the east, Belarus to the north, Poland to the northwest, Slovakia and Hungary to the west, and Romania to the south west and south, with Moldova in between.

Most of the country (the central and eastern portions) was formerly a part of Russian Empire; after WWII, the entire country - known as the Ukrainian Soviet Socialist Republic - was a part of the Soviet Union. Ukraine is the second-largest country in Europe.

Regions

Cities

  • Kiev (Kyiv) - Capital

Other destinations

Culture and History

In English, the country is sometimes referred to with the definite article, "The Ukraine", a grammatically peculiar term usually applied to a region, rather than a political entity (e.g. the Baltic, the Caucases, the West etc.) Since its establishment as an independent nation in 1991, the country is officially called simply "Ukraine", and this form is increasingly used in English worldwide.

History

Ukrainian history is long and proud, with the early dominance of Kievan (or Kyivan) Rus as arguably the most powerful state in 10th-century Europe. While this state did not last and Ukraine became part of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth form the 14th until the 18th century, even modern Ukraine owes it a debt of sorts. A subsequent Ukrainian state was able to - in the face of pressure from the ascendant Muscovy - remain autonomous for more than a century, however the Russian Empire absorbed much of Ukraine in the 18th century.

Despite a brief flash of independence at the end of the czarist regime, Ukraine was incorporated into the new USSR after the Russian Civil War in 1922 and subject to two disastrous famines (1932-33 and 1946) as well as brutal fighting during World War II. Throughout the period of Soviet control, Ukraine was subjected to various levels of Russification programs; in the 1930's and particularly intense period during the Brezhnev era of the 1970's and 1980's. The 1986 Chernobyl accident was a further catastrophe for the country but also widely considered as an event which galvanized the population in national sentiment signaling an increased opposition to previous direct Soviet central control over domestic affairs.

Ukraine declared its sovereignty within the Soviet Union in July 1990 as a prelude to unfolding events in the year to come. The Verkhovna Rada (Ukraine's Parliament) again declared its independence in early December 1991 following the results of referendum in November 1991 which indicated overwhelming popular support (92% in favour of independence). This declaration became a concrete reality as the Soviet Union formally ceased to exist on December 25, 1991. Initially, there were concerns that democracy did not really exist as former communist and oligarch rule prevailed in the early years following independence. The issues of cronyism, corruption, continued voting irregularities came to a head with the heavily-disputed 2004 Presidential election, where allegations of vote-rigging sparked what became known as the "Orange Revolution". This revolution resulted in the subsequent election of opposition candidate Viktor Yushchenko as President.

Orange Revolution

While most of the world expected the U.S. Presidential election to be the most exciting election of the 2004 year, the Ukrainian Presidential election of 2004 turned out to be far more dramatic and played out like a novel with spying, large scale protests, poisoned candidates, and a (bloodless) revolution.

The election was primarily a battle between then prime minister Viktor Yanukovych and former prime minister Viktor Yushchenko. Yanukovych was viewed as a status quo candidate, who's electoral platform included strengthening Ukraine's ties with Russia, while Yushhenko was viewed as a progressive candidate, who ran on a platform to strengthen Ukraine's relations with the European Union, NATO, and western nations. For the most part the election went largely unnoticed by the world until several weeks before the October 31st election when Yushchenko fell violently ill after being poisoned with dioxin. Yushchenko has alleged that he was poisoned by someone at a dinner he had with Ukrainian government officials the day before he fell ill.

On November 21 the day of the initial run-off election wide scale voter fraud was observed by international election observers, who gave Yushchenko an 11% lead over Yanukovych, while official election results handed the election to Yanukovych by three percent. A few examples of the alleged fraud were some voters being given more than one ballot, ballot boxes disappearing, and voter turnout of twice the number of registered voters in a given district.

The next day large scale protests of upwards of a million people developed to protest the results as fraudulent and demanded a run-off election. Nearly every foreign government, with the exception of Russia, condemned the results and recommended another vote be held under more stringent observation to prevent similar fraud from taking place. On December 3 Ukraine's Supreme Court ordered the results of the initial run-off election invalid and another election was to be held on December 26. Under immense pressure from the European Union (EU), Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe (OSCE), the United States, Poland, and international observers, the second run-off vote proved to be virtually free of any reported electoral fraud. On January 10, 2005 after three rounds of voting, large scale protests, sit-ins and strikes lasting over a month Yushchenko was sworn in as President. Viktor Yanukovych attempted to persuade the Ukrainian Supreme Court to invalidate the results of the second run-off, but the court dismissed Yanukovych's allegations.

Since taking office, Yushchenko dismissed several governors and members of ministerial administrations due to allegations of corruption. In late 2005, after Parliamentary elections, the ruling coalition collapsed following a vote of non-confidence and Yushchenko was forced to accept a coalition government headed by Viktor Yanukovych, his electoral opponent during the 2004 elections for President.

Travel to Ukraine, visa requirements

Visa requirements and customs

Tourist visas are no longer required for citizens of the European Union, USA, Canada, Japan, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Andorra, Vatican, Monaco, Iceland, Norway, San Marino, Mongolia, Serbia, Montenegro and the countries of the Commonwealth of Independent States (except Turkmenistan). This applies only for tourist travel lasting less than 90 days.

Visas are required for travel related to study or work, even if for less than 90 days, even for the aforementioned countries. For citizens of other countries obtaining a visa for travel to Ukraine may take up to 10 working days; an express option is available at a higher cost. More information is available at Ukraine's Embassy in your country and/or the Foreign service departments of your national governments (or their embassy websites here in Ukraine).

Always know how much currency you have with you. Customs officials will inquire about the amount being brought into the country. It is prohibited to bring large amounts of Ukrainian currency (hryvnia) unless it was declared upon leaving Ukraine.

It is advisable to check in advance the customs regulations (eg the Boryspol Airport website, which has an English version) as rules and regulations have the habit of changing at short and unannounced notice.

When entering the country you will be required to complete an immigration form - currently this is a simple white document with two parts that have more or less identical information. Both parts should be completed on arrival: the immigration officer will keep one part and you have to retain the second, which you will need to show to the emmigration officer on your departure from the country. It is not advisable to lose this easily lost scrap of paper, as you'll almost certainly have difficulties on leaving Ukraine (and likely incur a fine too)

Flights to Ukraine, airtickets

The cheapest way to fly into Ukraine is through Kiev Borispol. The main international hubs for these flights are Frankfurt, Milan, Munich, Prague, London, Rome, Vienna and Warsaw with several flights a day of Austrian AUA, CSA Czech Airlines, LOT, Lufthansa, Alitalia, Air France, British Airways, KLM and MALEV; also Ukraine International, which code-shares on these routes with the respective carriers, and another Ukrainian carrier, AeroSvit. Special offers on flights come and go, depending on the whim of the carrier. The only low-cost carrier flying into Ukraine, as yet (February 2007), is AirBaltic, with flights routing through either Riga, Latvia, or Vilnius, Lithuania, although AeroSvit could be considered a somewhat low-cost carrier (considering there aren't many others.) There are several airlines which offer direct flights to cities like Dnipropetrovsk (Lufthansa), Donetsk (Lufthansa, Austrian), Odessa (MALEV, LOT, Austrian, CSA Czech Airlines), Kharkiv and Lviv (LOT, Austrian Airlines), but they are more expensive. To fly inside Ukraine, the most common airline is AeroSvit. Although this is the unofficial national airline, and its routes cover all of Ukraine's major destinations, the planes used on some routes are older Soviet aircraft. Ukraine International also recently introduced flights within the country from its hub in Kiev, mainly flying newer Boeing 737 aircraft.

By train

One can enter Ukraine by train [1] from any land-bordering neighbour. When coming from Europe you should spend some time changing rail wheels in order to adapt to different rail distance standard. Generally, in Ukraine a railway travel is much cheaper than plane, and is comparable (but probably cheaper) to bus or car travel. It will take at most a whole day to ride across the country, so unless you are in hurry take a train. It's a good practice to take long-distance trains, which are much more comfortable. Avoid cheap third-class travels if you're cautious of local experiences.

By car

The main route into Ukraine from the West is via Poland - the only 24 hour customs post is in Lvivska Oblast at a place called Truskavetz, which as a 'place' is essentially just the customs post - and it's not marked on most maps either.

The nearest significant town on the Polish side is Przemyshl, and it's straightford to find by following route # 4 (which passes through Przemyshl), also known as the E40 in European terms.

When you arrive, the road is fairly narrow (no motorway/autobahn this) with a queue of trucks and vans parked to the right of the road; a hard-core parking area with cafe/bar to the left. Don't stop behind the goods vehicles, slip up the side of them and then feed into the customs area when the guy flags you forward (for courteous Europeans, you're not jumping the queue - commercial traffic goes through a different process).

If you're in an EU registered car then make for the EU-passports, passport control section. Thence to Ukrainian passport control and then Ukrainian customs and then you're through. It used to be a nightmare, with apocalyptic tales of 5-6+ hours at the border, but the Ukrainians have made great advances in efficiency and it takes about an hour to make the crossing (September 2005 - still true in Feb 2006).

Once through, just follow the main road towards Lviv on the E40 - this is the route right across Ukraine to Kyiv (and thence on to the East). Stick to this - the main towns on the way are Lviv, Rivne, Zhytomyr.

Watch out about 15-20 km inside Ukraine, I think the village is called Mostiska, as they have gone crazy about traffic calming measures here (speed bumps or sleeping policemen). They're like icebergs across the road, and very badly marked. And there are about four or five sets of them through the village. Other than that, take care on the road, which although the main East/West highway, and the main road route into the EU, still remains in a miserable condition (surface-wise). And you'll soon realise why Ukraine has such poor statistics in relation to driver and pedestrian fatalities and injuries. Drive defensively is the optimum advice re the roads, other road users and the walking, riding public.

by foot

You can walk across the 200 meter long bridge from Sighetul Marmatiei, Romania. But once you get to Slatina, Ukraine, it may be difficult to engage onward travel unless you came in a car. Bicycling is also a possibility in summer.

Buses to Ukraine

There are inexpensive direct bus services to Lviv and Ivano-Frankivsk from Poland. They usually offer a budget level of comfort and cost about 90 to 100 hyrvnia (20 US$)

By boat

There are some ferries from Istanbul, Georgia, Varna (Bulgaria) to Odessa or to Crimea. [2]

Get around

The quickest way to get around big cities is the so-called marshrutka - the minibuses which follow routes much like the regular buses do. You can generally flag them down or ask them to stop at places other than the specified bus-stops. The fare is paid as soon as you get in, and is fixed no matter how far you want to go. This is the same for the conventional buses, tram, trolley-buses and the Metro. You tell the driver that you want to get off when you're approaching the destination. Each city has an inter-city bus station from which you can go pretty much anywhere in Ukraine. Fares and quality of service vary widely.

By train

Trains in Ukraine are really cheap. For example: Simferopol to Lviv for 8 Euros ("platzkart") on overnight train with sleeping-car. The problem is that trains are quite popular in Ukraine and you have to buy the tickets well in advance. There are always 3 kinds of ticket counters: 1 group for trains that go on the same day, 1 for trains that go within 7 days and 1 for trains that go within 45 days. Buying tickets for the same day is usually not such a big problem as long as they are still available. But tickets for trains that leave not on the same day you usually have to stand in line for a very long time. Sometimes up to 4 hours! For buying tickets you have to present your passport. Also when getting on the train you will be asked to show it. You might want to get the more expensive tickets ("SV" and "kupe"). Being a foreigner and traveling in "platzkart" (compartments without doors) is not so safe, especially if you are traveling alone. But if you keep your valuable objects somewhere inside your sleeping bag or close to your body you should not experience any problems. A first class cabin is a very good deal. The cabin has (staple)beds for two persons and you have privacy and safety because you can lock the door. The price from Lviv to Odesa was in 2004 round 25 Euro p.p!

Every wagon has its own "provodnik", the conductor. Spend some time on building the relationship, that might make your journey more comfortable. The provodnik serves tea, and sometimes even protects you. We had an experience once in the Carpathian mountains, when train musicians became aggressive after not getting the desired hard currency. The provodnik speaks the language, and saved us with some harsh words.

By car

It is possible to get around in Ukraine by car, but one must be aware of certain particulars, and be prepared for pitfalls:

The signs are all in Ukrainian. Only a few signs (every 200km or so) are written in the Latin alphabet, and indicate main cities. It is recommended you have a good road map (those available are mainly in Ukrainian, but Latin alphabet maps are starting to appear), because place names aren't well posted on road signs.

You are strongly advised to respect the signs, especially speed limits. Be aware that unlike in Western countries, where limits are repeated several times, in Ukraine, an obligation or a prohibition is often indicated on a single sign, which you must not miss. The police are always there to remind you.

You should avoid conflicts with officials. Bribery is a common practice, but it is not at all advised to foreigners, and may get you into further trouble.

Speed in cities is limited to 60km/h (40mph).

Speed in "nationals" is limited to 90km/h (55mph).

Speed on highways is limited to 110-120km/h (75mph).

Fuel is no longer a problem in Ukraine, especially for those who remember travelling to Ukraine during the early 1990s, when gasoline was considered precious. Today, there are plenty service stations. There are varying types of fuel, such as diesel, unleaded 95 octane, and (more rarely) unleaded 98 octane; one finds also 80 and 76 octane. Note that if you choose to fill-up in a rural filling station, you will need to pay first, and in cash.

Fuel is much less expensive than in Western Europe (counting 4.1 hr for a litre of 95RON unleaded, which amounts to about 75 Euro cents, 5.2hr for 98). Quality of fuel equals Western European - and you'll not find leaded fuel.

The state of the roads is a huge subject:

The main roads are okay for all cars, as long as you don't go too fast. Numerous running repairs have created a patchwork road surface, and it will seriously test your suspension - even on the major dual carriageways.

Secondary roads are passable, but beware: certain zones can be full of potholes and you must treat them with extra care, or avoid them entirely. Roads between villages are often little more than dirt tracks and not metalled. Treat as inaccessible unless you're driving a 4x4.

Road works have been ongoing, but the quality of the roads is far shy of Western Europe...

Be careful when driving in towns or villages. Sometimes pets prefer to walk on the road, and they are a hazard for all drivers. You're likely to see plenty of animals hit by cars, so be prepared...

Bicycle traffic is not very common, but you will sometimes see an aged man transporting a sack of grass on an old road-bike or a cycling enthusiast in bright clothes riding a semi-professional racing bike. Those are even more likely to be met on well-maintained roads where the pavement is smooth. Also cyclists will use both lanes of the road in both directions equally ie you are just as likely to meet a cyclist coming towards you, riding on the verge, as you will travelling in your direction. And almost invariably without lights or bright clothing so be extra careful when driving at night and dawn/dusk.

Also, don't be surprised to see plenty of horse drawn carts - even on the dual carriageways.

By Bus

There are two major bus companies that run buses from all of the major cities to and from Kiev, they are Avtolux, and Gunsel. Prices run about 55-70 Hryvnia (11-13 USD) for service to Dnipropetrovsk and Kharkiv.

The major advantage that the bus service has, is that it leaves from Boryspil and stops in Kiev, so if your destination is not Kiev, its easier then taking a bus to the Central Train Station in Kiev.

They are standard coach buses, serve cold drinks and tea, show movies, and make a stop about every 3-4 hours.

They run every few hours.

Flights to Ukraine, airtickets

Aerosvit offers some really cheap flights and prooved as a good, and time-saving, alternative to the hellishly slow train service. For example the flight Odessa-Kiev (One-Way) was 18 USD (including Tax & all fees) and took 1,5 hours. However, for the real cheapies you have to book early. Be prepared to find yourself seated in a rather historic airplane (AN-24 for example).

The flights can be booked online via www.aerosvit.ua comfortably in English.

By thumb

Hitchhiking in Ukraine is average. Drivers usually request money when they stop - it's a bit cheaper than public transportation (also cheap). But still it's possible to go by hitchhiking - usually cargo trucks will take you for free - but it's still worth to try stop personal cars as well. Good people are everywhere; you may be picked up in a Lada or a Lexus. (More usually the former.)

The usual hitchhiking gesture (also used to hail taxis and marshrutkas) is to face oncoming traffic and point at the road with a straight right arm held away from the body. Sometimes, for visibility, you may add a downward waving motion of the open right hand.

Talk

Ukrainian is the official language. Near the neighbouring countries, Russian, Romanian, Polish, and Hungarian are spoken. Russian is a close relative of Ukrainian and is most often the language of choice in the south and east of Ukraine. It is safe to assume that in large cities everyone would understand Russian (the post-Soviet heritage), however, beware that in central and especially western parts people may be reluctant to help you if you speak Russian, though as a 'foreigner' Ukrainian's will look more benignly on you than on their former imperial 'masters'. On the other hand, in eastern parts and especially Crimea, Russian is commonplace. It’s very common in central part of the country for people to use these two languages simultaneously (so called surzhyk – mix of the languages). It is also common for people to talk to others in their native language, irrespective of the interlocutor’s one, so you can be understood but will not understand using one of the languages.

Young people are more likely to speak a little English, as it is the most widely taught foreign language in school.

If you are traveling to Ukraine, learn either basic Ukrainian or basic Russian before hand (i.e. know your phrase book well) and/or have some means of access to a bi-lingual speaker - their mobile/cell/handy number (everyone has a mobile phone) can be a godsend. Virtually nobody in any official position (Train Stations, Police, Bus drivers, Information Desks, etc.) will be able to speak any language other than Russian or Ukrainian. If you already know another Slavic language you will be able to communicate sufficiently.

It is a good idea to familiarize yourself with the Cyrillic alphabet; this will save you a lot of time and difficulty.

Shopping, Ukraine souvenirs

To shop you will most certainly need local currency (hryvnia). US Dollar, Euro and other currency exchange points are very common in cities, and the exchange rate is usually very fair. However, sometimes and in some banks there are problems with cash deposits (or that is the official version), so do not exchange too many dollars unless you're traveling to the more provincial areas. When doing person-to-person payments you might be able to pay in US dollars or Euros, as those are widely recognized, and you might in fact get better rates than in official exchange points. However, be careful, because it's not legal to make payments with foreign currency.

If you want to buy any kind of artwork (paintings, easter eggs) in Kiev, the place to visit is Andriivsky Uzviz (Андріївський узвіз in Ukrainian, Андреевский спуск in Russian).

BE AWARE THAT IT IS ILLEGAL TO TAKE OUT OF THE COUNTRY ANY ITEMS OF HISTORICAL IMPORTANCE including badges, medals, icons, historical paintings, etc... This law is strictly enforced at all exit points of the country and one risks heavy fines and/or imprisonment.

  • As of September 25, 2005
    1 UAH = 0.2 USD (1 USD = 5 UAH)
    1 UAH = 0.165 EUR (1 EUR = 6.05 UAH)

Good restaurants and cheap meals

Ukrainian cuisine борщ солянка

If you are outside a big city or in doubt about food, exercise caution and common sense about where you buy food. Try to buy groceries only in supermarkets or large grocery stores, always check the expiration date, and never buy meat or dairy products on the street (you can buy them on the market, but not near the market).

When choosing a restaurant at which to eat, you will find one that you like based on the menu posted by the entrance of every establishment. This may sound strange, but in most towns in Ukraine there are some very good restaurants, sometimes even luxurious ones, and these restaurants do serve properly made food. If you like traveling to more remote parts of the country and are in doubt about what to eat, remember that vegetables are always a safe choice.

Along the way you may find nice places to eat not by following the rare signs, but just by tracing the sky for the smoke of traditional wood fires. These are often places where they serve traditional Ukrainian food, including very tasty shashlyky (шашлики in Ukr.). Restauranteurs are very friendly, and more often than not you will be one of their first foreign visitors. Next to the "borshch" you might also ask for "varenyky" (вареники in Ukr. - dumplings filled with meat or vegetables) or "deruny" (деруни - potato pancakes). You have to try varenyky with with potatoes and cottage cheese in a sautéed onion and sourcream sauce - it's a fantastic dish. These are just starters, but ones that might fill you up quickly.

Ukraine nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs.

The Ukrainian specialty is horilka (the local name for vodka) with pepper. Other kinds of vodka are also quite popular - linden (tilia), honey, birch, wheat. Prices range from $1 to $10 (1-7€)/0,5 l. Souvenir bottles are available for higher prices (some bottles reach upwards of $50 (35€)/0.5 l). There is a great choice of wine, both domestic and imported. The domestic wines mostly originate in the south, in the Crimean region - known for wine making dating back to early Greek settlement over 2,000 years ago, although wines from the Carpathian region of Uzhorod are also quite tasty. Prices for local wine range between $2 to $50 (2-35€) per bottle of 0,75 l (avoid the cheapest wines, $1 or less, as these are sometimes bottled as house wines but sold as local vintages), however, one can find genuine Italian, French, Australian wines from $50 per bottle and more in big supermarkets and most restaurants. The price of imported wines dropped significantly over the last number of years and trends indicate further reductions in price.

There are a lot of beverages (both alcoholic and non-alcoholic). Ukrainian beer is of very good quality. Beer from barrels or kegs (more common in cafes) is often watered down. Canned beer is not very common in Ukraine and sometimes not of the same quality as the same variety in sold in bottles. The best beers are brewed by Obolon and Sarmat. Imported beers are also widely available but more expensive – for instance, a bottle of Austrian Edelweiss can cost upwards of $2USD while average price of Ukrainian beer is 50¢. All told, Ukrainian beers are very tasty and gaining popularity elsewhere in Europe.

Of non-alcoholic beverages one should try kvas – a typically slavic drink made of rye or wheat. During the summer one can easily buy it from designated street vendors. It’s better to buy it in bottles due of unknown cleanness of the barrel. Dairy drinks, of all sorts, are also available, although mostly in supermarkets. Bottles of mineral water are available everywhere, as well as lemonades, beer, and strong drinks. When seeking to buy bottled water make sure to ask for "voda bez hazu" (water without gas) otherwise you are likely to be handed the carbonated drink.

WARNING. Never buy vodka or kognak (the local name for brandy) outside supermarkets or liquor stores, for there are a lot of fakes. Every year a few die as a result of methyl poisoning - a compound used to make fake vodkas.

Hotels, youth hostels, lodging

Hotels might be a traumatic experience for a westerner anywhere outside Kiev. The cheaper the hotel, the larger the chance of some quite unfortunate surprises, especially for those not familiar with the Soviet-style level of service which still remains in many places. There are many mid- range (E 25-45) options outside Kiev. For instance in Ivano Frankivsk (near the Carpathians), the going rate is approximately 35 euro for a suite (bedroom and sitting room)in Hotel Nadia. Many hotels have the choice between renovated rooms/suites ("western style") and not renovated rooms (easteuropean style). The last choice is more than 50% cheaper and gives you a spacious old fashioned 2 room suite, basic but clean! There is only 1 5 star hotel, is called the Premier, but very expensive. Another option is to rent an apartment on the internet before you leave your country. There's many to choose from in Kiev and Odesa. Tip: Read Kiev in your pocket on internet!

What many people from ex-soviet countries do is to go to the railway station, where they try to find people who are willing to rent a room. Prices are usually much cheaper and if there are enough people offering the room you can make great deals (in Yalta people are almost fighting to be able to talk to you). These deals are usually not legal and they will take you to a corner before negotiating. Make sure they have warm water, and don't be afraid to say it's not what you expected when seeing the room. If they smell you're a foreigner prices will triple or quadruple.

Learn

There are a lot of foreign students in Ukrainian universities, but the level of education is lower every year. Bribery is huge, you can obtain a diploma here having attended just twice (the first and last days of study) if you have money. That's a hyperbole, of course, but the real life is not much different. Of course if one wants to obtain good knowlege they will, but motivation in such a situation is low.

Work

Stay safe

Many people will tell you that you can take a copy of your visa with you. Sadly, some people experience trouble over this. It's always better to carry your passport with you. A photocopy can be refused as proof of identity. A phone call to a local that can help you will often prove very effective to help you.

Get the details of your local embassy and/or consulates in advance and note their emergency numbers.

If you can it is useful to have a bi-lingual acquaintance who can be called in an emergency or if you encounter difficulties. If staying for any length of time it is advisable to get a local SIM card for your mobile for emergencies, and for cheaper local calls/texts. These are widely available, cheap and easy to 'top-up'

Crime Issues

As in any other country, using common sense when traveling in Ukraine will minimize any chances of being victim of petty crime and theft. Try not to publicize the fact that you're a foreigner or flaunt your wealth - by clothing or otherwise. With the exception of Kiev, Odessa and other large cities, foreign tourists are still quite rare. As in any country the possibility of petty theft exists. In Kiev make sure to guard your bags and person because pickpocketing is very common. Guides have told tourists to watch certain people because he heard them say, "They look like Americans, let's follow them for a while and see what we can get."

Opposite, if being arrested by police or other law enforcement - do your best to inform them that you're a foreign visitor. Not many police officials speak foreign languages freely, however many people are eager to assist in translation.

Don't drink alcohol in a company of unknown people (which may be suggested more freely than in the West). You don't know how much are they going to drink (and convince you to drink with them), and what conflicts may arise after that. Also, many Ukrainians, known for a penchant for a good drink, can sometimes consume such an amount of vodka that would be considered lethal for the average beer-accustomed Westerner.

Your Financial Security

Ukraine is a predominantly cash economy. The network of bank offices and ATMs is growing fast and has become sufficient in the large cities. So you can use your credit cards (mostly MasterCard, Visa) or cash travel checks easily. But avoid using your credit cards for payments at establishments in smaller towns as retailers are not trained and controlled enough to ensure your card privacy. Instead, it is widely acceptable to pay cash. Locals (especially businesspeople) sometimes carry, and pay in cash amounts considered unusually large in other countries. Don't suspect criminal activity in every such case.

Also, it is strongly recommended to avoid individual (street) currency exchangers as there are thieves among such exchangers, that may instead give you old, Soviet-era currency or also coupons that have been withdrawn from circulation since the mid 1990's. Use special exchange booths (widely available) and banks; also be wary of exchange rate tricks like 5.059/5.62 buy/sell instead of 5.59/5.62.

The Euro and US dollar are generally accepted as alternative forms of currency, particularly in tourist areas. They are also the most widley accepted convertable currency at the exchange booths.

Racism Issues

The area around U.S. embassy in Kyiv is known for the provocateur groups targeting black people, and there have been reports of such attacks on Andriyivski, the main tourist street that runs from Mykhailivska down into Podil. Anecdotal experience is that there is underlying racism in Ukraine, indeed much of the FSU. Blacks are sometimes referred to as Mavpa/Makaka - monkey in Ukrainian/Russian; migrants from Middle and Central Asia and gypsies receive much closer and frequent attention from the militsiya (police). Always have your passport (or a photocopy of the main pages if you're concerned about losing it or if you're staying in a hotel that is holding it) as foreigners are treated more favorably than others. This is not to say that it is unsafe or threatening, but it is better to be forewarned of the realities.

Accident Hazards

Ukraine is a country of stray/wild/homeless dogs - easily recognizable by their dirty look and cold temper. They just live on the streets and yards (mostly in the suburbs) and are not dangerous. Mostly you can step over the animal lying on the pavement without any hostile reaction. However, don't show excessive tender or panic towards these dogs: it may awake their well-oppressed instincts. Avoid lactating bitches and domestic dogs.

While there's a lot of swimming and diving attractions throughout Ukraine, local water rescue is tremendously underfunded. It is unlikely that you would be noticed while drowning, especially on the river. Use only officially established beaches.

Ukraine has some of the worst statistics for road related deaths and injuries in the world - so act accordingly. Take care when crossing the roads; walk and drive defensively - be aware that traffic overtakes on both the inside and outside. Sometimes you even need to take care when using the sidewalks, as in rush-hours the black, slab-sided Audi/BMW/Mercedes sometimes opt to avoid the traffic by using the wide sidewalks; pedestrians or not. Owners/drivers of expensive cars have been known, at times, to be more careless of the safety of pedestrians. Always watch out for your safety.

Also be warned that pavements suffer in the same way as the roads in terms of collapsing infrastructure. Take care when walking, especially in the dark and away from the downtown areas of the main cities (a torch/flashlight is a useful possession) as the streets are poorly lit, as are most of the entries/stairwells to buildings, and the street and sidewalk surfaces are often dangerously pot-holed. Don't step on man-hole covers, as these can 'tip' dropping your leg into the hole with all the potential injuries!

Stay healthy

There is radiation contamination in the northeast from the accident at Chornobyl nuclear power plant in 1986. However the effect is negligible unless you permanently live in Chornobyl area itself. There are even tours to the town of Prypyat' which is the closest to the station. The town is famous for the haunting scenery of blocks of apartment buildings abandoned in 1986, now standing out amid the vegetation which spawned from years of neglect.

Do not, under any circumstances, drink unboiled tap water. Cholera and other waterborne parasites occur frequently, especially in the south. Whenever possible buy bottled water, which is freely available and generally OK.

Respect

Respect the fact that Ukraine is an independent nation and is no longer "part" of Russia. You may find that people are sensitive about being grouped as "Russians," especially in the western part of the country.

Ukraine is by no means a conservative country with respect to clothing, behaviour, overcharging you if they can get by with it, getting what you paid for (quality). It is very different from our western perspective in some of these cases.

Also, some Ukrainian women wear risque clothes. This does not always mean that the woman is a prostitute or "easy".

Contact

Inquire the locations of your country's embassy/consulates before traveling to Ukraine.

Retrieved from "http://wikitravel.org/en/Ukraine"
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