Tashkent

Tashkent (Uzbek: Toshkent, Russian: Ташкент) is the capital city of Uzbekistan. It is an ancient city on the Great Silk Road from China to Europe. Little remains of the ancient city after the 1966 earthquake and earlier modernisation work following the 1917 revolution. Tashkent is a very Soviet city that has little remaining from its ancient Central Asian past. The city has a mixture of modern new office buildings, hotels, parks and crumbling Soviet style apartment blocks. The streets are generally clean and there are not too many potholes in the city center. Further out, the infrastructure is not so good.

Over the last few years the Uzbek government has embarked on a major reconstruction program in the centre of the city. Roads, government buildings and parks are all being reconstructed. To the visitor, the new city looks very impressive, although many of the local residents have yet to see any improvement in their residential areas.

Tashkent is waiting for a boom. The infrastructure, hotels and shops are there but the influx of people and business has failed to materialise. This is caused in part by a combination of government policy and bad publicity.

Talk

Although Uzbek is now the official language, Russian is still the primary language used by the majority of the population in Tashkent. Most businesses use Russian in their signs, menus and other printed material. Only government institutions use Uzbek as the first language, and even then, many government forms and reports are in Russian, rather than Uzbek. Currently, Uzbek uses the Latin alphabet rather than the Cyrillic that was used during the Soviet Union. This is a source of some confusion for many Uzbeks, especially those of the older generation. Shortly after the fall of the Soviet Union, and Uzbekistan declared independence in 1991, the written Uzbek language was converted back into Latin characters. Many older Uzbeks have difficulty reading the Latin characters. Uzbek is a Turkic-based language, and while Uzbeks and Turks cannot completely communicate directly, the better educated on both sides can usually find some common understanding.

Many of the signs in Tashkent are in Cyrillic. A significant number of Russian words are similar to their English counterparts. Learning the Cyrillic alphabet - which is not as difficult as one might think (however, learning the Russian language is extremely difficult) - will help a traveller to read signs and in restaurants. [1] [2] It is very useful for the casual visitor to Tashkent to learn a few basic Russian words and phrases.[3] [4]

Travel to Tashkent - Visa Requirements

Flights and airtickets to Tashkent

Tashkent International Airport "Yuzhniy" [5] (IATA: TAS; ICAO: UTTT) is just a few kilometers from the city centre. Airlines serving Tashkent include Aeroflot, airBaltic, Asiana, Uzbekistan Airways and Turkish Airlines. It is also the hub of Uzbekistan Airways [6], which flies to many destinations including Almaty, Tokyo, Bangkok, London, and New York-JFK.

A short and inexpensive ($2-3 / UZS2000-3000) taxi journey is the easiest way to get to the center. One should bear in mind, however, that upon exiting the international terminal, a large number of men will be crowded at the (sole) exit door offering "taxi" services. For the most part, these are not "official" taxis, but often old, beat-up Ladas. "Taxi" drivers will attempt to charge whatever they believe the market will bear. For those without Russian or Uzbek language skills it is best to arrange to have someone meet you at the airport. Fair fares are usually only obtainable by those who understand the system and speak at least some Russian or Uzbek. Taxi drivers will rarely accept small bills (dollars, euros or pounds), and cannot be counted upon to give change (in any currency). Baggage reclaim and customs formalities can take 2 hours.

Before passing through customs, you will need to fill out 2 copies of the Customs Declaration. These forms are often handed out on the flight or can be found on the stands in the baggage reclaim area. The customs officers will keep one copy and stamp the other. You will need this form when you leave the country and may find it difficult to leave without it. Make sure to declare all money and valuables (cameras, PC's etc). You may not be able to leave with more money or valuable items than you arrive with. The Uzbek government does not like money leaving the country.

The departures area is on the upper floor. The access road has been closed, so you have to walk around the left hand side of the arrivals level and up some stairs or up the road. Allow plenty of time when leaving the country via Tashkent airport. Check-in, customs and passport control can be very time consuming, especially if there are large numbers of passengers. Make sure and have the customs form you were given when you entered the country.

By train

Tashkent is a key stopping point for rail services from Central Asia. It is possible to travel from or to Turkmenistan, Dushanbe in Tajikistan, Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan, Almaty in Kazakhstan and Moscow. It is possible to travel to China through Almaty and to Iran and via Turkmenistan. Ticket prices are cheap by western standards, but will need to be paid for in cash, preferably in USD. There are many warnings about thefts of personal belongings on the trains.

By car

There are road routes from surrounding countries but the borders may not be open and there have been security problems. The border from Afghanistan is frequently closed or not open to non Uzbek/Afghan nationals. There is a risk from land mines in some border areas. The crossing from Kazakhstan near Saryagash is open and safe. Allow one or two hours to get through, especially from the Uzbek side.

Buses to Tashkent

Tours and Getting around Tashkent

The city has a good public transport system which is cheap. The metro/underground system is typical of the old Soviet style - with large and impressive stations - and is actually quite modern. There are also modern busses and trams which are being renewed in 2008. Tickets (which on the metro are small blue coin size tokens) cost 400 soms for any single journey. It is not permitted to take photographs in the metro stations. Police will usually be present on all platforms. Do not risk taking photos "while the policeman is not watching" because they have security cameras everywhere and policeman will approach you instantly and check your documents. In all cases do have documents while you are taking the metro (or anywhere in the city), for you can be checked any time.

Taxis can be cheap after some negotiation, however some of the vehicles are very old. While there are official, authorized taxis (with the appropriate sign on the roof of the car), in reality almost any driver in Tashkent can double as a taxi driver. The local custom is to simply stand by the side of the road with your arm extended downward and slightly away from the body. A driver will pull over and then you will state your destination and negotiate the fare in advance. At least some Russian or Uzbek language skills is needed to accomplish this without difficulty. It is usually safe to use this procedure, although virtually every foreign embassy recommends against it. Directions are rarely given here using an address. Most often, a landmark is used, such as "near the hotel Russia,". Moreover, many streets and hotels have been renamed in the past few years but often drivers will not recognize the current name of the street or hotel, still knowing them by their old names. Asking to be taken to the Grand Mir hotel, for instance, will often result in a blank look. Tell the driver you want to go to the Gastinitsa Rossiya (Hotel Russia), however, and they will know exactly where you want to go. For those who speak neither Russian nor Uzbek, it is helpful to have someone draw a rudimentary map or write out directions in Russian. Few drivers will know English.

Do not expect western-style taxi services. Traffic in Tashkent is crazy and unpredictable. Taxi drivers will often smoke while you are in the car and asking them not to will most often result in nothing more than a look of disapproval. You may be paying, but you are in their car.

None of the major international car hire companies operate in Tashkent. Where car hire is available, it will include a driver.

• Tashkent city map [7]

Tashkent tourist attractions and sightseeing

• Tashkentland, (Near Aqua park, not far from Tashkent TV tower). An amusement park. It has few nice rides, nothing special if you have been in big park, but a nice place to spend a free afternoon with friends. It is also worth a visit to a simple park in Tashkent - although they have less attractions and less exciting, but they give a more authentic feeling. 7000 soms.  
• Tashkent Galley of Modern Art, (Not far from Amir Temur square and Westminster University). It is a nice modern gallery. Now (2008 June) there are some UN posters, some pictures and very nice excibition of young artists. For students the admission is 500 soms.  

• Alisher Navoi Theater for ballet and opera
• Various other theaters including the impressive Russian Drama Theater on Navoi street
• Amir Temur Monument and museum in the Amir Timur park
• The Japanese Garden behind the Intercontinental Hotel is popular for wedding photos.
• Boghi Eram Recreation Park. Fun fair for the young and not so young.
• The central market 'Oloy Bozori' (known by most locals as the 'Alayskee Bazaar', Amir Timur Street has beautifully laid out displays of local produce, dried fruit and nuts.
• War memorial, eternal flame and park, Sharof Rashidov Avenue (City Center).
• Tashkent TV Tower. Viewing levels and restaurants with views of the city [8]
• Muslim visitors may wish to visit the mosque in the Hast Imam area of the city. The library there contains the remaining fragments of the world's first Koran[9], written only 19 years after Muhammad's death.

Tashkent city tours

• Aqua Park, Amir Temur road, near TV Tower. The water park has several pools, one with a wave machine, water schutes and high slides. Well worth a few hours in the hot weather. Take your own towel and pool footwear (the paths can get very hot). There is a restaurant and bars inside.Adult 7000 Sum, Child 4000 Sum for 3 hours.  

Work

A typical monthly wage rate in Tashkent is different among different people. Usually state office workers get around US$100 a month. Private firm workers usually get higher salaries. It is possible to live cheaply if you do not visit any restaurants or other attractions. Most people rely on support from their family and friends.

Tashkent souvenirs and shopping

Local produce, such as fruit, nuts, vegetables can be very good, especially when they are in season. In the late summer, local melons appear on the streets and in the bazaars and are tasty and very cheap.

Most local residents do their primary shopping in bazaars. There are many of them in Tashkent, the largest of which is the Chorsu Bazaar. It is huge, colorful, teaming with people and offers just about anything that can be purchased locally, from produce to locally-made furniture and hardware. Hand-crafted items, including crockery, rugs, traditional dress, etc., are also available and far less expensive than in the shops frequented by tourists. Have a local go with you to the bazaars if possible. Foreigners are inevitably charged higher prices. Bargaining is common, but requires some language skills.

Saligokh Street, known locally as 'Broadway', has some street artists, etc. The street is easy to find from the Amir Temur monument, just head away from the Uzbekistan Hotel. The 'mirstore' just off of Saligokh Street has a modern supermarket, coffee bar and hugely overpriced fashion stores. This area, known locally as "Demir," also has MirBurger, which has burgers, pizza and local dishes at reasonable prices. There is also a Georgian restaurant ("Tblisi") and a Chinese restaurant. There is a heavy police (militsiya) presence here and foreigners are not often, but occasionally asked for their documents. It is advisable to keep a photocopy of your passport and visa with you, but leave the originals in the hotel safe.

Recently, modern designer fashion and shops selling luxury goods from famous international brands have started to appear in Tashkent. Catering for the wealthy, these can be found in the Broadway area, Amir Temur street and Pushkin street.

There is a shop on Shota Rustavelli street, not far from the Grand Mir hotel called Human House [10]. It features hand made crafts and clothing of all sorts, ranging from full outfits to purses to beautiful hand-painted tea sets and ceramics at very reasonable prices. It is non-profit and is meant to help provide income to the craftspersons, who are often from remote and very poor villages.

Tashkent Restaurants: cheap, moderate and expensive

Uzbek national dishes are similar to those of other Central Asian countries. The national dish is Plov (also called Osh, "Pulau" in Urdu). It is a mixture of rice, mild spices, yellow or orange carrots, mutton, meat, cumin (zira) and, according to individualized recipes, occasionally other ingredients. Shashlik - meat (usually mutton, beef or chicken) and chunks of fat roasted kebab style over charcoal. Samsa ("Samosa" in Urdu) are similar to South American empanadas - meat (beef or mutton) and onion encased in pastry and baked in wood-fired, clay ovens shaped like inverted beehives called tandories. The local bread, round and flat, is also baked in tandories. It is called Non (or in Russian, "lepioshki,", "Naan" in Urdu) and is usually delicious. Nan from Samarkand is especially well regarded by many in Samarkand but each region takes pride in its own version of non just as it does its version of Osh.

There are hundreds of small cafes in Tashkent (and other Uzbek cities and villages) offering these and other local dishes at very inexpensive prices. A meal of salad, bread, tea, soup and shashlik at around 2-3 USD isn't difficult to find. Bear in mind that sanitation standards leave a lot to be desired in many of these cafes. Especially on warm days, look to see if the meat is kept refrigerated before it is cooked. Often, it is not.

Budget

There are many small restaurants serving simple meals at good prices. Burgers and kebabs are common. Borsch (soup) is tasty and perfect on a cold day.

• Bravissimo at junction of Shahrisabz Street and Movarounnakhr Street serves cakes and good local food. Russian language only.
• Neft i Gaz kitchen, it is a canteen of a company, but many people from around go there, as it is cheap and tasty. It serves most traditional dishes - plov, lagman (a soup with spagetti, meat and other ingredients), borsh. Languages russian and uzbek, but it is easy to order, as it is canteen type and you can just show what you want. Lunch shouldn't cost more than 2000 sums. It is not far from Amir Temur boulevard and Westminster University. If you ask around people will know it and can show you more specifically as it is in the backyard and not so easy to find. Note: It works only from 12-16 p.m.

Mid-range

• Polyanka Cafe. Not far from Boghi Eram Recreation Park. Excellent food and cabaret entertainment (suitable for families). 
• Nam Dae Mun, ☎ +998 71 1320105. 24 Buhara Street, near Alisher navoi Theatre and Broadway. Fine Korean and Japanese restaurant. Reasonably priced too. 
• Tang Cheng Chinese Restaurant, 60A Amir Temur St, ☎ +998 71 1358916. Good Chinese restaurant. 
• Al Delfin. Excellent Arabic food. The best sheesha in the city can be found only here. 
• Ariston. Sabir Rahimov, st.Lashkarbegi, 2 (Off of Pushkin street). Like Polyanka, excellent food and cabaret entertainment (suitable for families). 
• Ariston Park. One of a few good places to eat in Boghi Eram Recreation Park 
• Amfora Greek Rastaurant. (АМфОРА in Russian). Near junction of Shahrisabz Street and Movarounnakhr Street. Greek themed restaurant. 
• La Riva. Fast food plus huge variety of different International dishes from Russia, Korea, Italy, Tatarstan and etc. Many colleage students drop in throughout the day and the evening. Right next to Salvador Dali night club 
• Khan Kuk Kwan. South Korean Cuisine. 
• Mir Burger. So called Turkish McDonald's. Located on Tashkent Broadway. 

Splurge

Tashkent nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs

In common with other countries in central Asia, tea is drunk by most people. Coffee, where available will usually be Nescafe. A better cup of coffee can be found in Cafe Amore at the MIR store just off of Broadway.

Alcoholic drinks are sold freely in shops or street stalls. Outdoor bars are popular in good weather. Uzbek wine, vodka (very strong) and many different beers are available.The Russian Baltika beer is popular. Baltika 3 is good and similar to other international beers. Baltika 0 has no alcohol, Baltika 5 and 7 are also good and Baltika 9 is very strong. A new local beer, Sarbast, has been launched and should be about half the price of imported beers. It quite good and at 4.2% (red label), not too strong. Sarbast is also available with a blue label at 5.6%.

Nightclubs, as everywhere offer expensive drinks and typically play a mix of Russian and Western music. Strip shows are common.

• Rich night club is part of Dedeman hotel.
• Club Diplomat S, Navoy Street. 200m from Dedeman hotel. Has billiard tables. Entrance 3000 Sum (free for ladies). It can be very busy and getting in may be difficult if your face does not fit.
• Studio Cafe, S.Azimova Street. Very modern cafe/bar with good food and drink.
• Fashion Bar, 25 Kunaev Street. At the junction with Shahrisabz Street. Another modern bar/cafe, showing Fashion TV on large screens with music until late at night.
• Diamond Club nightclub, below Arkada center on the Broadway. New and modern nightclub with a sci-fi theme. Check out the 'Predator' look-alikes.

The Chelsea Arms in Kakhara Street is a 'traditional' themed English pub. It looks like it has been transplanted from the East End of London. It also offers Wifi! Tashkent also has at least two Irish theme bars - the new Irish Pub and Patrick's Irish pub, Akhunbabaev street.

Tashkent cheap and luxurious hotels, youth hostels and lodging

Tashkent has many good hotels, most of which are empty. The exception is the Dedeman which has become the hotel of choice for most international visitors. The image of the Intercontinental Hotel (right) is typical of the new buildings in Tashkent.

Budget

Gulnara's B&B Tel: 402816/1447766 email: gulnara@globalnet.uz Very friendly, clean, and comfortable. Short walk to Chorsu Bazaar and Metro Station. Rooms approx $12-15.00 per person. Rides from the airport can be arranged for a reasonable price.

Mid-range

• Malika Hotel [11], tel: +998 71 1730203. Probably the best bang-for-the-buck in Tashkent. Well-equipped and nicely outfitted. Ownership includes an American partner. Room rates from 35-45 USD including breakfast. Also in Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva.

• Expo Tashkent Hotel [12] - Located just next to the Expo Center.
• Rovshan Hotel [13]

Splurge

• Grand Mir Hotel [14], 2 Kunaeva Street, Tashkent , Tel: +998 71 140 20 00, fax +998 71 140 20 40. A luxury hotel for business travellers. Wireless internet connection is available. Rates include fitness centre services and a healthy breakfast.
• Dedeman Silk Road Hotel [15], Amir Temur St,Tel: +998 71 2340101. Excellent and new hotel in the city centre. Drinks are overpriced though, with free Internet connection in rooms. Rack rates from $160/night but booking through an agent will get a double for $105 with breakfast. The deluxe double rooms are best and will cost $130 with breakfast.
• Markaziy Hotel, Amir Temur St,Tel: +998 71 1383000. Markaziy Hotel was opened in 1999 by Sheraton and was run by them until a few years ago, when they left having lost money after some alleged financial irregularities. The hotel is one of Tashkent's taller buildings. The rooms are still very good, but service and maintenance are not quite up to Sheraton standards. A single room will cost $70+ and a premium double $120+ including breakfast. Bar/restaurant bills must be paid in cash.
• Tashkent Palace Hotel (used to be Le Meridien) 56, Buyuk Turon Street. Traditionally styled and visually impressive hotel.
• Le Grande Plaza Hotel (formerly BUMI) 2, Uzbekiston Ovozi Street
• Radisson SAS, Amir Temur St. About 2km from the city centre.
• InterContinental Hotel, Amir Temur St. Opposite Radisson SAS Hotel.

Contact

Telephone number change

During November 2007 the Tashkent telephone number plan has been changed. The changes are complex. Some numbers that began with the number one have been changed to begin with two. Golden Pages has a list of the changes [16].

Stay safe

Visits to Tashkent should be trouble free. However, visitors should refrain from political activities or doing anything that could be regarded as undermining the state. Petty crime is fairly common, so remember to watch your personal belongings.

There have been incidents of robbery, including some violent assaults reported recently (spring 2006) in Tashkent, but such incidents are generally rare. Travelers should use the same caution they would use in any large city, especially at night. It is not advisable for foreigners to walk around alone at night, especially in areas where few people are about and/or lighting is poor.

In addition, there were isolated cases of suicide bombings and related terror-style attacks a few years ago. Primarily, these were aimed at local police and government forces, although there were bombings outside the U.S. and Israeli embassies in 2004. Avoid confrontations of any kind. If you witness a confrontation, especially in a crowded area such as a bazaar, move away quickly.

Concerning food: in hot summer days try to avoid dairy products, mushrooms or any products that might be damaged by heat. Always avoid fish (unless you are sure it has been well stored) - after the Aral Sea disaster, the fish industry in Uzbekistan is in poor condition.

Cope

The local currency is the Uzbek Som. Exchange offices should be used since the black market is illegal and rates are poor. US dollars, Euros, British pounds or Japanese Yen are the only currencies that can be readily exchanged, but notes must be in perfect condition with no marks or damage. Money from surrounding countries, including Russia and Kazakhstan is very difficult to find or exchange. As of Dec. 2008, the exchange rate is about 1380SUM to US$1 or 2000SUM to £1. Local ATM's (known as Bankomat's) do not work with foreign cards. US dollars are available inside banks using international credit cards with commission of about 2%. The dollars can then be changed for local currency with another commission charge. Newer shops and hotels are accepting credit cards and Maestro.

• British Embassy, Tel. +998(71)1207852, [17].
• Embassy of the United States, Tel. +998(71)1205450, [18].

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