Quetta

Quetta is the capital of Balochistan province in Pakistan. If you are taking the overland route from Istanbul to New Dehli without going through Afghanistan you will have to pass through Quetta.

Quetta is an excellent base for exploration of Balochistan. Kan Mehtarzai (224 meters), the highest railway station in Asia, is a two-hour drive away. Loralai, the almond bowl of the country, is 265 kms away. Besides, there are numerous other valleys that are fascinating places to be in for explorers.

Culture and History

The name Quetta is derived from the Pashto word "Kwatta" which means a fort and, no doubt, it is a natural fort surrounded by imposing hills on all sides. Three large craggy mountains — Chiltan, Zarghun and Koh-e-Murdar — seem to brood upon this town, and there are other mountains that form a ring around it. Their copper red and russet rocks and crests that are powdered with snow in winters add immense charm to the town.

Strategically Quetta is an important city due to its proximity to borders with Iran and Afghanistan. There is a huge military base just outside the city. Historically, Quetta owes much of its importance to the Bolan Pass which links it to Kandahar, Afghanistan.

Excavations in the Quetta valley have proved that the pre-historic humans used to live there. Modern day Quetta is a real growing centre of excellence. It is rapidly progressing in various walks of life.

The population is approximately 670.000, and it has an area of 2653 sq. km.

Climate

Quetta is 1,680 meters (5,500 feet) above sea level and enjoys a healthy climate. The temperature drops a few degrees below the freezing point in winter following a typical autumn when the leaves turn golden and then a wild red.

Quetta can rightly be called the fruit basket of Pakistan. Plums, peaches, pomegranates, apricots, apples, guavas (locally called zaitoon), some unique varieties of melon like "Garma" and "Sarda" and cherries, pistachios and almonds are all grown in abundance. Some pistachios also grow in Qila Saif Ullah. Saffron grows very well and is being cultivated on a commercial scale. Tulip is an indigenous flower of Pakistan. The yellow and red varieties of tulip grow wild around Quetta.

People and Culture

The inhabitants of Quetta are mainly Pashtuns. The tribes include Kakar, Ghilzai Tareen, Mandokhel, Sherani, Looni, Kasi and Achakzai. Since Quetta is the capital of Baluchistan one might think the Balochis would be in the majority, but the Pashtuns are actually the largest group and the Pashto language is widely spoken. Besides Pashtuns and Balochis you can also find Punjabis, Hazaras, Uzbeks, Tajiks and Turkomen rubbing shoulders with the other inhabitants. All live in a perfect harmony and are equally hospitable to visitors because hospitality is an important element of their cultures.

Nomadic tribesmen, mainly Balouchi, pass through Quetta Valley during spring and autumn with their herds of sheep and camels and their assorted wares for sale. This seasonal movement adds color to the life of the city.

The Pashtuns pride themselves on their tradition of hospitality to guests (milmastia in Pashto). Just a greeting of Salaam Alaykum will get you far in endearing yourself to people. The rugged terrain has made the people of the area hardy and resilient. They are known for their friendliness and hospitality. To make a visitor comfortable is part of their tradition. The people inhabiting this land are proud, robust and fiercely independent. They harbor no domination and the British who came here in the late nineteenth century learned to respect and honor.

Travel to Quetta, visa requirements

Quetta is connected to the rest of the country by road, rail and air.

Flights to Quetta, airtickets

There is an international airport about 15 minutes by taxi from the city center. Flights with PIA will take you to most major cities in Pakistan, such as, Karachi , Lahore and Islamabad. The only international destination of Pakistan International Airlines to and from Quetta is Dubai.

By train

There are also trains to Rawalpindi, Peshawar, Karachi, Lahore and Zahedan in Iran (suspended for the time being). Buses ply the same routes.

By road

The highway connects eastward to Karachi and westward via Koh-e-Taftan to Tehran, Iran, 1435 kms away. The road to Sibi connects it with Punjab and upper Sindh. The road via Loralai - Fort Monro -D.G. Khan and Multan is a shorter route for Punjab. The Chaman Road is a link between the country and the Afghan border.

Get around

Walking

The city center is small enough to reach most places by foot. It is a place of ancient monuments, wide tree-lined boulevards and sterling British architect. Even more compelling, Quetta has a dramatic setting, with a mountainous backdrop on all sides. Most sights can be easily walked in a day. Don’t miss the impressive Archaeological Museum of Baluchistan, the fort or the city’s many colorful bazaars—great places to pick marble, onyx, and some of the finest carpets in Pakistan.

The main thoroughfare and the commercial centre of Quetta is Jinnah Road, where the Tourist Information Centre of Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation as well as the banks, restaurants and handicraft shops are located. Shahrah-e-Zarghun runs parallel to Jinnah Road. It is a long boulevard lined with trees. Many important buildings like the Governor's House, Post and Telecommunication Offices are located along Zarghoon Road.

By auto-rickshaw

Auto-rickshaws give Quetta polluted air, and are the most popular and cheapest way to get around the city but these days they are rapidly being replaced by more environment-friendly 4 stroke CNG rickshaws.

From the airport - When you arrive at the airport you will likely be besieged with touts offering you taxis and rooms. It's wise not to book anything through them and arrange a taxi yourself to the hotel of your choice. Some of the mid-range and most top-end hotels offer a courtesy shuttle from the airport.

Quetta attractions and sightseeing

Hanna Lake

If you wish to enjoy excursion just near the city, you must go to Hanna Lake, it is in the hills overlooking Quetta 10 km from the city and very close to the Urak, where benches and pavilions on terraces have been provided. Golden fish in the lake comes swimming right up to the edge of the lake. A little distance away, the waters of the lake take on a greenish blue tint. Right where the water ends, have been planted pine trees on the grass filled slopes. The turquoise water of lake is a real contrast to the brownish green hills that surround the area.

The greenish-blue waters of the lake provide a rich contrast to the sandy brown of the hills in the background. One can promenade on the terraces. Wagon service operates from city bus station at Circular Road. The transport can be hired through the PTDC Tourist Information Centre, Muslim Hotel, Jinnah Road Quetta.

Hazarganji Chiltan National Park

Hazarganji literally means "Of a thousand treasures". In the folds of these mountains, legend has it, that, there are over a thousand treasures buried, reminders of the passage of great armies down the corridors of history. The Bactrian, Scythians, Mongols and then the great migrating hordes of Pashtuns, all passed this way. In the Hazarganji Chiltan National Park, 20 kms southwest of Quetta, Markhors have been given protection. The park is spread over 32, 5000 acres, altitude ranging from 2000 to 3200 meters. Hazarganji literally means "Of a thousand treasures". In the folds of these mountains, legend has it, there are over a thousand treasures buried, reminders of the passage of great armies down the corridors of history. The Bactrains, Scythians, Mongols and then the great migrating hordes of Baloch, all passed this way. Nature lovers, students, scientists and researchers are welcome to visit the park at any time of the year. For overnight stay, accommodation is available at the Forest Department Rest House located five kilometers inside the Park. For booking of Rest House and permit to visit the Park, please contact the Office of the Divisional Forest Officer, located on Spinney Road, Quetta. Transportation to the park can be arranged. There is no restaurant but cooking facility is arranged on request. Park Rangers help the visitors to see animals. Access trails have been developed in the park for visitors. A small museum of natural history is located near the Park entrance.

Museums

The Archaeological Museum at Fifa Road has a collection of rare antique guns, swords and manuscripts. It has a display of Stone Age tools, prehistoric pottery and articles found from Mehrgarh. There are also coins, manuscripts and photos of Quetta before 1935 earthquake. The Museum is open from 9 am to 3 pm daily.

The Geological Museum on Sariab Road (near Balochistan University) has a collection of rocks and fossils found in Balochistan. The Command and Staff College Museum is worth a visit for those interested in British military history. It is housed in the former bungalow of Field Marshal Montgomery.

Amusement and Recreation

The Askari Park at the Airport Road and Liaquat Park on Shahrah-e-Iqbal offer amusement and recreational facilities. Balochistan Arts Council Library is located on Jinnah Road. The Chiltan Hill viewpoint on Brewery Road offers a panoramic view of Quetta. Karkhasa is a recreation Park situated at distance of 10 kms to the west of Quetta. It is a 16 kms long narrow valley having a variety of flora like Ephedra, Artemisia and Sophora. One can see birds like partridges and other wild birds in the park. Limited recreational facilities are provided to the visitors through the Forest Department, Spinney Road, Quetta.

City tours

Festivals

There are religious and social festivals celebrated by the people of Quetta. Two major religious festivals are Eid-ul-Azha and Eid-ul-Fiter. On these festivals people adorn their houses, wear new dresses, cook special dishes and visit each other. Eid-Meladun-Nabi is another religious festival. It is a celebration of the Holy Prophet’s birthday. Numerous colorful social festivals are also source of jubilation. Sibi festival that traces its roots to Mehergarh, an archeological site of ancient human civilization, attracts people from across the country. It is attended by common folks, ministers and other government officials. Folk music performance, cultural dances, handicrafts stalls, cattle shows and a number of other amusing activities present a perfect riot of color. Buzkashi is a peculiar festival showing valor of Pashtun people. It is celebrated on horse-back by two teams that use their skills to snatch a goat from each other.

Shopping, Quetta souvenirs

Local handicrafts, specially green marble products, mirror work and embroidered jackets, shirts, and hand bags, pillow covers, bed sheets, dry fruits, etc.

The main bazaar is on Jinnah Road. Prominent bazaars of Quetta are located on Shahrah-e-Iqbal (Kandahari Bazaar) and Shahrah-e-Liaqat (Liaqat Bazaar and Suraj Gang Bazaar). Here you can find colorful handicrafts, particularly Balochi mirror work and Pashtun embroidery which is admired all over the world. The Pashtun workers are prominently expert in making fine Afghan carpets, with their pleasing and intricate designs, fur coats, jackets, waist-coats, sandals and other creations of traditional Pashtun skills.

Balochi carpets are made by the nomadic tribes of this area. They are generally not nearly as fine or expensive as the Persian city products, or even the Turkoman tribal rugs from further North, but they are generally better than Afghan carpets and more authentic than the bad copies of Turkoman and Persian designs that the cites of Pakistan produce. They definitely have a charm of their own. They range from relatively crude rugs that can, with some bargaining, be had at very reasonable prices to quite fine and valuable pieces. Many are small enough to be fairly portable.

Good restaurants and cheap meals

In the old bazaars one comes across quaint old tea-shops. These are the local "clubs". There are also many popular eating houses offering different types of delicacies. Among the delicacies you must try is Sajji (leg of lamb), which is roasted to a delightful degree of tenderness and is not very spicy. It is a whole leg of lamb deliciously marinated in local herbs and spices and barbecued beside an open fire. It is very popular among the locals and is offered with great insistence to the guests. The Pathan tribesmen of the valley also enjoy Landhi (whole lamb) and Khadi Kebab. “Landhi” is a whole lamb which is dried in shade and kept for the winters. "Kebab" shops are very popular, the best being Lal Kebab, Tabaq, Cafe Farah and Cafe Baldia. They serve Pakistani and Continental food, while ENTER THE DRAGON Chinese Restaurant has the honor of winning the best Chinese restaurant award amongst 70 countries twice in a row. The other Chinese restaurant that is one of the oldest in town is CAFE CHINA. Some of the finest mutton in the country is raised around Quetta. It has a delicious smell which can be sampled in the Pulao that most of the eating houses offer.

There is famous Lehri Sajji house and Mir Afzal Karahi at Jinnah Road. The most famous is the Khadi kebab which is just behind the street at Liaquat Bazaar

The Pashtun people are also very famous for their refreshing green tea and Dood Pati shops

Very few places can compete with Quetta valley in having wide range of tasteful fruits, exported to all parts of the country as well as abroad. There you can find plums, peaches, pomegranates, apricots, apples, olives, different types of melon, water-melon, cherries, pistachios, almonds and other dry fruits. Saffron and tulip are also grown and cultivated on a commercial scale. The fruits heaven is Urak, called SAMARISTAN meaning the land of fruits in Persian.

Quetta nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs.

  • Being an Islamic country, Alcohol is banned but is available for non Muslims. None of the hotels has bars except for Quetta Serena Hotel.
  • Quetta is well-known for its Kawa (Green Tea) which has a unique flavor, and is usually served sweet.
  • Sharbat-e-Sandal is a sweet, non-carbonated drink unusually found in markets in summer. It has a good taste and a yellowish-green transparent colour - look out for the black seeds. Served ice cold.

Hotels, youth hostels, lodging

Budget

Shees Hotel M.A. Jinnah Road. Tel. 823141, 823015. Centrally located. The rooms are a good value, and the manager will help you with everything and anything.

Mid-range

Lourdes Hotel (Tel. 2829656-660, Fax. 2841352), Qasre Naz and Qasre Gul (Tel. 2825192) are one of the average hotels of Quetta.

Splurge

Quetta has one 5* hotel, Quetta Serena Hotel (Tel. 820071, Fax. 820070).

Get out

Urak Valley

Driving through wild roses and fruit orchards, you may reach the Urak Valley at a distance of 21 km. The abundance of delicious fruits makes it a real fruit land or SAMARISTAN.

Pishin valley

Filled with numerous fruit orchards, the Pishin Valley is 50 km away from Quetta. These orchards are irrigated by ‘karez’. There is yet another attraction of cool waters, i.e. man-made lake with Bund Khushdil Khan. A wide range of ducks provides enticing beauty during winters. The festivities include a colorful programme of folk dancing by thousands of participants from different regions. Horse jumping, trick horse riding, trick motor cycle riding, dare-devil motor car driving and a dog & hare race are among the highlights of the festival. The principal attraction of the show, however, remains the impressive display of the best available specimens of Pakistani livestock. As the sun sets over the impressive Fortress Stadium, the venue of the show, fireworks display, military tattoos and brass band pageants enliven the evenings and enthrall the spectators.

Ziarat

A visit to Quetta will however, be incomplete without a trip to Ziarat (133 kms from Quetta, 3 hours by car), a hill town 8000 feet above sea-level Air-conditioned coach and taxis take anything between an hour or two from Quetta an ideal and relaxing summer retreat with rows of juniper trees and ever green slopes.

The word Ziarat means holy place to be visited and the valley is known by that name because of a shrine of a holy saint, Tahir Baba Kharwari. There are other graves as well. However, the world knows it more because of the oldest and tallest juniper jungle, which needs to be looked after properly for future survival.

Extremely delicious species of apple, black cherry and almond trees are abundant in Ziarat, covering about 4416 acres in the lap of mountains.

While Ziarat abounds in tall chinar trees and juniper grows wild as does walnut and a variety of other trees, the area west of this hill station leading up to the Afghan border is rocky and barren. The drive through this unfriendly terrain provides one the grim reminder of the fierce tribes who roamed free in the region and kept the British weary and fearful. The border village of Chaman is also a major trading centre for a variety of fruit, a large quantity of which is still brought in from Afghanistan.

Pir Ghaib

Image:Pir Ghaib.jpg
A waterfall located at Pir Ghaib

At a distance of 70 kms from Quetta on Sibi Road is situated a popular picnic spot known as Pir Ghaib. Here a waterfall cascades down rocky mountain side making its way through many streams and ponds among the shady palm trees. You need a 4-wheeled transport to reach the spot from the main road.

Khojak Pass

This Pass will lead you directly to the Chaman Border of Afghanistan, 153 km from Quetta. The scenic beauty is simply enthralling. The border journey is to be materialized through Khojak Sheela, a 4 km long tunnel, at an elevation of more than 1945 meters above sea level.

Bolan Pass

If you have a passion for smelling history through places, you must visit the Bolan Pass, where several armies from Central Asia and north intruded into the lands of un-divided India through centuries. The picturesque hilly road welcomes you with cool breeze.

Lak Pass

While cruising through the hilly tract between Quetta and Kalat, you would come to see the route to Zahidan, Iran. Koh-e-Taftan and Saindak copper mines are en-route.

Harnai Pass

The entire population of Kharwari Baba and for that matter of the entire Ziarat, migrates to Harnai in extreme winter. Harnai Pass, about hours drive from Loralai, is just as spectacular as the Khyber Pass near Peshawar.

Mehergarh- the newest discovery of ancient civilization

During recent decades, a lot has been done to explore the culture and civilization of ancient people. The most distinguishing one is Mehergarh, which experts say remained the centre of high development some 9,900 years ago. Researchers claim that this was a civilized society of 7000 B.C that is even older than Moenjodaro and Harappa.

Stay safe

Quetta is considered one of the safest places of Pakistan. Don't let security reasons stop you from visiting Quetta; it is much safer than you often hear, just use common sense to avoid any mishap. All in all the people of Quetta are very friendly as long as you don't insult their religion, culture and tradition. The Pashtuns pride themselves on their tradition of hospitality (milmastia in Pashto) to guests. Just a greeting of Salaam Alaykum will get you far in endearing yourself to people.

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