Pyongyang
P'yŏngyang (Pyeongyang), with about 2,750,000 inhabitants, is the capital city of North Korea. It is situated on the Taedong River in the northwest of the country.
Travel to Pyongyang, visa requirements
Nearly all visitors arrive either by plane or train. The international airport is located near Pyongyang and has direct flights to and from Beijing, China and occasional flights between Pyongyang and some places in Russia. Most tourists fly into Beijing and then connect to the flight to Pyongyang. Trains from China arrive at Pyongyang's main central train station.
Get around
Visitors to North Korea will need to be accompanied by an accredited guide or guides, who will arrange where you can visit.
Pyongyang attractions and sightseeing
- The 20 meter high bronze statue of the Great Leader Kim Il-Sung at Mansudae. This behemothal self-tribute, erected by the Leader himself, will most likely be the first thing you visit. Surreal as it may seem, be aware that the locals expect visitors to this place to take it all very seriously and show respect to the monument. Your tour group will most likely have to lay flowers by the statue's feet, available on-site for €10.
- The Pyongyang Metro.
- The Juche Tower. A 170-meter tall monument is dedicated to the Juche philosophy of Kim Il Sung. Don't miss the trip to the top, which costs €10 and offers a great view of the city.
- The Children's Palace.
- The Ryugyong Hotel. This 105-storey building dominates the Pyongyang skyline with its 330 meters of height. Construction started in 1987, but when the money ran out in 1992 it came to a halt. Today it's a spooky concrete skeleton with a building crane stuck on top, and it's not likely to ever be finished.
- The USS Pueblo, the captured American vessel.
- The stamp shop next to the Koryo Hotel on Changwang St.
- Arirang Mass Games, the Mass Gymnastics and Artistic Performance. This is performed in the fall of some years. Was held in September-October 2005, and is expected again in September 2006. With over 100,000 performers this is, in a sense, the greatest show on Earth.
City tours
Guided tours of sites in and around Pyongyang are the only way to do things. It is very rare to be allowed to wander.
Shopping, Pyongyang souvenirs
Shopping options are limited. A few department stores exist but have very few things of interest. Locals only shop from specialty stores selling groceries and other basic items. Arts and crafts and souvenirs can be purchased in places such as tourist sites and hotels.
Good restaurants and cheap meals
There are hardly any regular restaurants where the average North Koreans go. Eating out is a pleasure reserved for foreigners and the beautiful people. You will normally eat dinner at your hotel.
- Pyolmuri, Changkwang Street, [1]. North Korea's first Italian restaurant, offering pasta and pizza. Mains €1.50-2.50.
- Dangogo Gukjib, Tongil Street, is the most famous place for those who have decided to try the Korean specialty of eating dog. €30 and nerves of steel is all it takes.
Pyongyang nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs.
There are very few bars and clubs, though North Korean beer is available at hotels. Some may also offer Chinese and other foreign beers.
Hotels, youth hostels, lodging
This will be arranged by your tour company.
Budget
- Heabangsan Hotel, Sungri Street, Central district, +850 2 37037. A five-storey building which is the cheapest option in Pyongyang. It has 83 rooms, but you cannot be certain that you as a foreigner will be allowed to stay here. After all, a 3rd-class hotel might spoil your impression of the spotless and happy country of North Korea.
Mid-range
- Pyongyang Hotel, Sungri Street, Central district (near Pyongyang Grand Theatre), +850 2 38161. Class 2 hotel with 170 rooms, open since 1961.
- Taedonggang Hotel, Sungri Street, Central district (beside Taedonggang river), +850 2 38346. 2nd class hotel that has been around since 1956.
Splurge
- Yanggakdo Hotel, +850 2 381 2134. This is where most tourists in Pyongyang end up staying. It is situated on Yanggakdo Island, in the middle of the Taedong River. It is 47 stories tall, has several restaurants (including a revolving restaurant on the top), and a kitsch casino in the basement where you can watch Chinese gamblers go wild. Also has a bowling alley, shoe repair shop and (genuine) massage service. The staff are Chinese. Prices range from €70 for a third-class room on one of the lower floors, to €420 for a deluxe room high up. Meals are included.
- Koryo Hotel, Changwang Street, +850 2 381 4397. The most luxurious hotel in the city together with Yanggakdo Hotel. Has 45 floors and over 500 rooms. Centrally located in downtown Pyongyang near the train station, makes you less isolated than the Yanggakdo. Singles €175, doubles €290.
- Potongang Hotel, +850 2 381 2229. First-class hotel situated next to the Potong River about 4 km from the city centre. It has 216 rooms equipped with air conditioning, refrigerator, telephone and satellite TV. The facilities include restaurants, bar, souvenir shop and a beauty salon.
- Sosan Hotel, Kwangbok Street, +850 2 71191. Another first-class option, recently renovated. Features a pool, bars, internet access and cable TV.
- Ryanggang Hotel, Chongchun Street (at the junction of the Taedonggang and Potonggang rivers), Mangyongdae district, +850 2 73825. Opened in 1989, this first-class hotel has 317 rooms and a rotating restaurant on the roof.
Get out
- Mangyongdae, the alleged birthplace of Kim Il Sung, is 12 kilometers from central Pyongyang and a good daytrip. A collection of huts claimed to be the Leader's first home is the main attraction, and they look surprisingly new for being 100 years old. The suburb also features a revolutionary museum, a funfair and a revolutionary school for the kids of the elite.
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