Perhentian Islands

The Perhentian Islands are a small group of beautiful, coral-fringed islands off the coast of northeastern Malaysia in the state of Terengganu, not far from the Thai border.

Culture and History

The two main islands are Perhentian Besar ("Big Perhentian") and Perhentian Kecil ("Small Perhentian"). Kecil, the more popular of the two, has cheap accommodation and is a bit of a backpacker party scene, while Besar is slightly more expensive and caters more to families. The relative difficulty of access and the higher prices compared to Thailand mean that both are still relatively unexplored. The sea at Long Beach, Perhentian Kecil is starting to get a bit polluted with old plastic carrier bags and take away cartons.

The small, uninhabited islands of Susu Dara, Seringgi and Rawa lie off Kecil. All the islands belong to a protected marine park, which means that fishing, collecting coral and littering are strictly prohibited.

When to go

Due to the eastern monsoon, the season in the Perhentians is effectively limited to the period between February and October. Outside this the seas can be very rough and most accommodation options are closed.

Travel to Perhentian_Islands, visa requirements

Stop in Perhentian All over Malaysia, you'll see signs that say Perhentian Teksi or Perhentian Bas. But no, this isn't some giant island-based transport conglomerate: instead, perhentian means "place to stop" in Malay, and the islands got their name as a staging point used by traders traveling from Malaysia to Bangkok.

Most people travel to the islands via the state capitals of Kota Bharu or Kuala Terengganu; see the respective pages for more information. The nearest railway station is Tanah Merah, although most travellers opt for Kota Bharu's better-serviced Wakaf Bahru station instead. All travellers to the islands have to pay a marine park conservation charge of RM5 per person, valid for the length of your stay.

Since the islands have no roads and no airport, getting to the islands themselves will require a ferry, really just a speedboat rigged with two large outboard motors. Expect to get yourself (and your belongings) soaked in seawater, although the exact degree depends considerably on wind conditions and how crazy your captain is. Note that all ferries will take you directly to your destination, wherever it may be on the islands; you may have to pay an extra RM2 or so for the last leg on a taxi boat if the beach has no jetty though. There are two jetties of importance:

via Kuala Besut

The main ferry terminal is at Kuala Besut. From here you have two options: speedboats, which cover the distance in 30 minutes for RM30 one way and depart according to demand (4-5 times a day), and slow boats, which take several hours for the same trip, leave infrequently and irregularly (usually in the early morning), and still charge RM20 or so. However, in the off season slow boats may be your only option.

Taxi drivers may try to take you to a travel agent of their choosing, who will pay them commission (which gets charged to you). If you already have accommodations booked, just go directly to the jetty, or pick an agent of your own choice and try to get an insured boat.

On the way back, tour operators in town can arrange transfers to Taman Negara (RM85), Cameron Highlands (RM60) & Kuala Lumpur (RM70). You'll need to catch an early boat to make in time, so advance reservations are recommended.

via Tok Bali

A second private jetty is at Tok Bali, several kilometers north of Kuala Besut. While somewhat closer to Kota Bharu, the boat trip itself is longer at 45 minutes and there are only 3 ferries daily. On the way back, arranging onward transport from here can also be difficult, as there are no public transport options and you're stuck with the taxi mafia who charge a flat RM50 to anywhere. On the positive side, while some guidebooks still note Tok Bali as a "pirate jetty", the Ministry of the Environment has set up a booth to collect the marine park charge.

Warning: The Tok Bali folks are in cahoots with the taxis at Kota Bharu airport and will happily sell you tickets via Tok Bali even if you ask for Kuala Besut. Tour operators from the Cameron Highlands and Taman Negara will also often drop you at Tok Bali. By the time you end up there, it's too late, so try to make sure in advance that you're going to the right place.

Get around

Aside from walking, the only means of transport are water taxis. Prices are negotiable but figure on RM5 per head for most hops from one beach to another, and a little more when crossing from one island to another.

Many places on the island are referred to with both their Malay and English names. To make life a little more confusing, the words "beach" (pantai) and "bay" (teluk) are often used near-interchangeably as well, and a few English place names are not literal translations.

Malay	English	Location
Pasir Panjang	Long Beach	Kecil, east coast
Teluk Aur	Coral Bay	Kecil, west coast
Teluk Dalam	Flora Bay	Besar, south coast
Teluk Keke	-	Besar, southwestern coast
Teluk Pauh	-	Besar, northwestern coast

Perhentian_Islands attractions and sightseeing

There are no monuments, museums, viewpoints or other aboveground sights whatsoever on the islands.

City tours

Activities on the Perhentians are basically limited to scuba diving, snorkeling and sunbathing. Those with excess energy may attempt the jungle trails crisscrossing both islands.

Scuba diving

The Perhentians offer excellent diving and draw divers from far and wide. In addition to coral and fish, the Perhentians are home to sea turtles and many species of shark -- none of them dangerous unless provoked though. Visibility is often in the 20 meter range (although it will temporarily go down after storms) and no wet suit is required, although you may wish to use a dive skin for protection from coral and the occasional jellyfish. Popular dive sites include the Pinnacle (aka Tokong Laut, "Temple of the Sea"), a pinnacle jutting out from the sea bed, and the Sugar Wreck, an easily accessible 3500-ton sugar hauler. The (more expensive) single-day trip to Redang Island, where the water visibility is considerably better, offers diving a notch above the local options, well worth every dime - but be prepared for a rough ride in a small speedboat.

Competition for divers is fierce and consequently diving is quite cheap, averaging out to RM60-80 per dive depending on how many dives you do and whether you bring your own gear. All dive shops also arrange introductory dives (no training required) and PADI training.

There are 5 dive centers on Kecil's Long Beach: Spice Divers, Coral Sky Divers, Quiver Dive Team, Seadragon Divers, Turtle Bay Divers and Sunlight Divers.

• Sunlight Divers, (tel. 012 307 1952), [1]. A dive centre which has earned its reputation from having friendly,professional members of staff, well maintained equipment and its frequent eco work. One of the smaller shops on the beach. Has shops on Long Beach and Coral Bay, Kecil.

• Coral Sky Divers, (tel. 019 910 1963), [2]. Located on Kecil's Long Beach, this is one of the longer-running scuba (not actual sky diving) outfits with a good reputation. RM150 for an intro dive, RM800 for a 3-day PADI Open Water course.

• Quiver Dive Team. Located on Kecil's Long Beach, adjacent to the Bubu Long Beach resort.

• Turtle Bay Divers, (tel. 019 333 6647), [3]. Another long-running outfit which has shops on both Kecil's Long Beach and the main beach of Besar.

• Alu Alu Divers, (email: alualudivers@yahoo.com), [4]. A small, friendly dive center on beautiful island of Besar which offers a personalised and unique diving experience.

Snorkeling

All resorts rent out snorkeling gear (typically RM30 a day for mask, snorkel and fins) and arrange snorkeling tours around the islands. You can get some cheaper equipment from some local restaurant. Popular snorkeling spots on Besar include Teluk Pauh (to the left of the beach in front of the PI Resort), Shark Point and Tanjung Basi. The best place to see sharks (black tip) is in front of an extremely small "beach", only accessible by boat, between Shark Point and the Teluk Dalam large beach. They are usually seen cruising the bottom of the reef. For turtles, best place is the middle of the beach in front of Perhentian Island Resort, where the sandy bottom is covered with algae.

On Pulau Besar, if you are planning to do snorkeling just in front of your chalet, then stay on the northern and east side of the island where the water is clearer then the south side. Of course, the chalet and food is more expensive.

The best spot for family snorkeling would be the south-west of the island. The water is shallow and it is not fronting any chalet so the corals are more abundant and colorful. Between Pulau Besar and Redang, the corals are much better in Pulau Besar.

Jungle trekking

The islands are crisscrossed by small paths connecting one beach to another, but be prepared to sweat and swat off bugs if you tackle any of these. There is a big chance to see big monitor lizards and large spiders between Long Beach and Coral Bay, and if you are walking off the main trails, you are likely to spot some wild monkeys if you are lucky.

Good restaurants and cheap meals

Many of the smaller resorts only offer meals as part of an all-inclusive package. These are usually buffet-style with a variety of Western and Malaysian dishes. Larger beaches, such as Pasir Panjang, offer a larger variety of eating options. Since everything (except seafood) has to be imported, expect to pay at least 2 to 3 times more than on the mainland.

Kecil

• Panorama Restaurant, on the southern side of Pasir Panjang. One of Kecil's more attractive eating options, Panorama offers a larger range than usual of Western and Asian fare at decent prices. No alcohol, but you can bring your own.

• Lily's, on Long Beach. is a nice, clean and chill place where you can get good cheap food(try the beefburger).

  [edit] Besar

• Watercolours Restaurant, next to the dive shop of the same name on Besar's main western beach. Affiliated with the Paradise Resort, this simple but attractive restaurant is packed every night with people feasting on fresh seafood and other items on the menu. Needless to say, the quality of the food is very good. Prices have gone up lately but RM25 for 3 BBQ rock lobsters or RM20 for fresh barramundi in banana leaf, served with a small baked potato and salad, are still a steal by Perhentian standards. Vegetarian food is available upon request.

• Mama's Restaurant, beside Mama's Resort (oddly enough). This is the only other largish restaurant near the north end of Perhentian Besar. Their menu is closer to typical "kampung" (village) fare; however, the nighttime BBQ fish is not to be missed - the portions are far more generous, and the spices are much bolder/fragrant than the rather plain BBQ offerings from Watercolours (Oct 2006). As well, it is the more economical of the two restaurants.

• Teluk KK, at the southwestern tip of the island near Teluk Keke. This little place is frequented mostly by locals and serves basic food - don't expect super tasty dishes. 5-6 RM.

Perhentian_Islands nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs.

Pasir Panjang on Kecil (Long Beach) is the only place in the islands with any semblance of a nightlife, although Besar's first bar has recently opened up. Alcohol is expensive at RM8 and up for a can of beer, and Muslim-owned restaurants can't sell you any. There is some under-the-counter booze floating around though, and bringing your own is also permitted in most otherwise dry restaurants.

Kecil

Lily's on Long Beach is a great place to chill out and drink an expensive beer (or a relatively cheap bottle of Thai Song and coke)

Besar

• Watercolours Restaurant. serves chilled beer.

Hotels, youth hostels, lodging

There is very little luxury accommodation on the islands. with the top of the line being air-conditioned chalets (RM100-200) and the bottom being a bunk in a longhouse (RM10 and up). Discounts are usually negotiable in the off season, for weekdays, for longer stays, if you show up late and they have room... but the better places can get snapped up fast, especially on weekends and holidays, so book in advance (easily arranged in Kuala Besut) or arrive early.

Kecil

The most popular backpacker destination is Pasir Panjang (Long Beach) on the eastern coast of Kecil, where a bed in a longhouse can go for as little as RM20. More private "chalets" with fan, electricity and bathroom start at RM50.

• Mohsin Chalets, Blue roof chalets on the hills, ☎ 603 21630963 (info@backpackjoe.com, fax: 603 21622729), [5]. This 25 bedrooms chalet, 1 unit of Dormitory and one restaurant which overlooks white sand beaches and a blue lagoon abundant with fish and living coral, and offers a prime location from which to witness the island's stunning sunrise. Restaurants offers buffet at nights, with movies on big-screen projectors and if you're lucky, the Reggae Band from Langkawi comes here to perform from time to time. The restaurant area overlooks the entire beach, and wi-fi internet is provided slightly expensive than the rest. From RM80.

• Bubu Long Beach Resort, ☎ 03 7805 4380, [6]. This is the first and so far only ferroconcrete hotel on the islands, offering air conditioning, hot water and other creature comforts. Great views from the balcony. Excellent restaurant, but pricey compared the the rest of the beach. The resort has its own electicity generator and is the only place on the beach with power 24 hrs a day. From RM200.

• Matahari, at the south end of Kecil's long beach. This is one of many identikit chalet operators, offering you a roof over your head, a mosquito net, a fan and a grotty bathroom. The restaurant is pretty awful by Malaysian standards. RM35 and up per night.

• Rock Garden, on the side of the hill on the southernmost part of the beach. The cheapest place to stay on the island and for good reason. No additional amenities and very poor conditions exist but the price is right and it has a nice view of the incredible beach.

• D'Lagoon, in the bay north of Long Beach. Wooden chalets with mosquito nets, and own restaurant. Coral is right in the bay but so close you cut yourself in low tide. RM 30 and up per night.

• Mira Beach, at the southern end of Kecil. Simple wooden chalets with mosquito nets, and a place to eat. No electricity nor running water, but fresh water available in drums. Advantage: no anoying generators in the background. Nice if you're looking for peace in a quiet place. The only bay on the island worth snorkeling in. RM20 and up per night.

Besar

Due to its popularity Kecil can get a little noisy at times, so to get away from it all, head for Besar. Starting from the northern Teluk Pauh:

• Perhentian Island Resort, ☎ +603 21444 8530/31/32, [7]. Offering the best digs on the islands, the Resort is located on Besar's nicest white sandy beach and equipped with the only swimming pool in town. Still, 5-star luxury it isn't, and the list prices of RM250 to RM350 are overpriced especially since some of the older, further-off chalets are downright grotty; take a look at your room first and ask to see a different one if you don't like it. It offers 24 hour electricity and water supply with heater, air-cond with individual climate control and in-room coffee/tea making service.

A 5-minute walk away is Besar's nameless main beach, featuring the following:

• Coral View Resort, at the north end of Besar's main beach. While this may have been a "close number two" at some point in the past, it's in a sad state of affairs at this point in time (Oct 2006). Firstly, don't even consider any of the "Standard A/C" rooms, as they're located very far from the beach and, more importantly, up decidedly rickety and dangerous stairways into the jungle. Not to mention, they are in terrible shape--they are dark & squalid. Even the more expensive chalets (RM230) are in a bad state of disrepair and are extremely dimly lit. For the money, it is NOT worth it. Avoid.

• The Reef. The first in a series of near-identical no-frills chalets just south of the Coral View on the same beach, followed by Paradise Island Resort and Mama's. All offer basic non-air-conditioned chalets with basic attached bathrooms in the RM60-80 range.

• Paradise Island Resort. Has clean but basic non air-conditioned chalets with attached bathrooms. The Garden View chalets are RM 60 and the Sea View chalets are RM 80. There's not much difference between the two. The staff are very friendly and helpful. The Watercolours Restaurant is attached to this resort. For those on a budget, this makes a good place to stay.

Crossing over to the next beach is a more challenging 15-minute hike up and down through the jungle, but it will bring you to the southwest beach and:

• Cozy Chalets, at the north end of the beach, you'll walk through this on the trail down.. These have been reported abandoned, and not looking very cozy at all.

• New Cocohut Chalet, a bit further south from the Cozy.. One of the more attractive options on the south beach, New Cocohut offers air-conditioned chalets starting at RM120, chalets with a fan, and longhouse beds for less.

• ABC Guesthouse, just further south on Besar's south beach. ABC is a barebones longhouse-only operation in a creaky two-story building, which looks like it will soon collapse and join Cozy in the dust pile of history.

• Tuna Bay Island Resort, south of ABC, ☎ 09 6979 779, [8]. Tuna Bay is one of the newer and classier outfits, offering all air-con chalets at a fairly steep RM160 and up, including hot showers and even safety deposit boxes in every room. The seaside restaurant is also pleasant with excellent food and a small bar.

• Bubbles Resort, at the southern end of the island. A very quiet and small resort. Located in a beautiful bay you can rent family and air conditioned chalets with bathroom (from around RM150 and up) or cheap fan powered rooms with bathroom from RM50. There is a restaurant and a good dive school http://www.bubblesdc.com - canoes free to use and a volleyball net. Friendly staff. Ideal for families and those who wish to experience the islands` tranquility at its best.

The final smattering of chalets can be found on the southern Flora Bay (Teluk Dalam), an even steeper hike from the rest of the island (two tracks lead to Tuna Bay and the PI Resort).

Contact

Internet cafes can be found on both Kecil and Besar, but connections are slow.

• Lazy Boy Shop, Long Beach, Kecil
• Gen Mart, Long Beach, Kecil
• Panorama Chalet, Long Beach, Kecil
• Coral View Island Resort, Besar
• Tropical Reef, Besar
• Flora Bay Chalet, Besar

GSM mobile phone coverage is perfect on both islands as all three operators have placed their respective cell towers (huge red and white ones). They look a bit weird coming out of the green jungle. Celcom and Maxis do even provide UMTS 3G coverage.

Cope

For all their beauty, the Perhentians remain a bit of an up-and-coming attraction and there are some missing bits in the infrastructure to be aware of:

• Credit cards are accepted only by some dive shops. However, a number of places will charge an additional 3-6%. Coral Sky Divers however will accept credit cards with no additional charge. The only place on the islands where you can get a cash advance is on Bubu Long Beach Resort on Kecil, which charges 10%. Perhentian Island Resort on Besar used to be able to do a cash advance but that is not true anymore (July 2007). Money can be changed at least on Long Beach, but rates are bad (approx. 10% worse than in mainland).

• Electricity generators provide most of the electricity on the islands. Power outages are not uncommon and in many cheaper chalets power is only provided at night.

Stay healthy

• Mosquitoes can be a nuisance after it rains. Bring repellent and consider burning a mosquito coil (available locally), especially if your bed does not have a mosquito net.

• Tap water is generally not safe to drink. Bottled water is widely available at a fairly expensive RM 3-5 per 1.5L bottle.
• The sun is extremely strong. Slap on plenty of sunscreen and, if snorkeling, wear a T-shirt. The midday sun is the most dangerous and can really ruin a holiday if you're not careful.

Respect

There are concerns that the coral reef will be gone in as little as ten years because of the intensive tourism industry. But as long as you take care and do not touch the living coral you will not be contributing to that directly.

Many snorkeling trip operators have very little awareness of environmental issues. They may discard plastic bags which contained food for attracting fish directly into the sea. This adds up to thousands of plastic bags needlessly thrown into the ocean. Do what you can do discourage this neglectful habit.

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