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TravelTips24 : Africa : Saharan Africa : Niger : Niamey

Niamey

Niamey is the capital of Niger.

Travel to Niamey & Visa Requirements

By plane: Direct flights from France. Plane connections also exist from Casablanca, Dakar, Tripoli, Bamako and Ougadougou.

Airport Porters: Porters in the airport will try quite determininedly to help you carry your bags, even trying to take them from you, so hold on tight and continue to refuse politely if you don't want help. If you do want their help, tip 1000-2000F or a couple US dollars or equivalent.

Airport money changing: You can change money at the airport but not at a good rate.

Getting to town (or back): If your flight comes in in the middle of the night you will have to bargain for a taxi into town, for a minumum of 3000F. During the day, simply walk out of the airport to the main road and flag down a bush taxi (van) heading right. They come by all the time. The price is fixed at 125F per person, and no charge for bags. They will drop you off at the Grande Marche, and from there it is easy to get a taxi (200F/person) to anywhere else in town. To get back to the airport to fly out, go to the Grand Marché – Côté Chateau. There are two gas stations on the corner. In front of one you will see several bush taxis (vans) lined up facing away from the Grand Marché and towards the airport. Tell them “aeroport.” Again, it costs 125F per person. The van usually fills up and leaves within 5 minutes. Get off in front of the airport and walk in. (If you’re not familiar with where the airport is, tell the young guy managing the van and he’ll let you know when it’s time for you to get off.)

Confirm your return flight:

  • Airport flight information: 20-73-23-81 or 20-73-21-33
  • Air France: 20-73-31-21/22
  • Royal Air Maroc 20-73-28-53

Tours & Getting around Niamey

Taxi. Taxis are plentiful and easy to use. They are almost always shared unless you ask specifically to pay more to make it private. The rate is fixed at 200CFA per person, double on longer distances. For longer distances the taxi driver will indicate by saying quatre cent (French), deux courses (also French) or wah-haku (Djerma) before you get in the car. You should pay more only from bus station (500 FCFA) and from airport. If in doubt, negotiate the price beforehand, especially if you are white and take a taxi near a hotel. Prices double after midnight. There is a Hertz car rental place in Niger that rents Toyota RAV4. It is expensive!

Private Taxi. If you need to call a taxi to pre-arrange something, one to try is Taxi Bonbon at 96.96.76.46. Fun guy that likes to chat and flirt.

Precautions

General: Niamey is a safe city but be aware of several things:

  • Carry as little as possible.
  • For guys, watch your wallet in your back pocket.
  • For girls, be aware that they can cut the strap of your bag and run.
  • The most dangerous places are anywhere the road crosses the ravine that runs through town, including next to the Stade (between the Stade and Katako), and between the Musée and Hotel Gaweye. Robberies are more common there because the bad guys can disappear into the ravine.

Con artists: A frequent scam, anywhere in town but especially near Petit Marché, involves someone will come up to you and act like he knows you well. He says his car or motorcycle got in an accident and he needs 10,000F to fix it, or variations on this theme. If you don’t know the person beyond a shadow of a doubt, don’t believe him or her.

Giving gifts: Think long and hard before giving out “cadeaux” (gifts) or money to kids or even adults that you do not know personally. Be aware that after you give out cadeaux, future travelers for the next 10-20 years will be targets for unceasing and increasingly obnoxious demands for cadeaux. Seriously, the annoyance you cause future visitors is probably not worth the trinket. Instead, give it to a reputable local charity or school to be distributed. Or instead give away something that is nothing to you and is worth a lot to someone else and don't only think of yourself and those like you and the (incredibly minor) annoyance of someone asking you for a small gift. Stop - look around you and enjoy the place in which you find yourself instead of being so self centred.

Proper attire: Look around to see how the majority of local people dress, and you can see it is offensive if you are not dressed conservatively. Shorts, above-the knee skirts, and tank tops should basically never be worn. Dress more conservatively than you are used to, and than you have to in other West African countries. This will also help cut down on harassment. Note, as well, that people in Niamey dress up as nicely as they can afford to, so it's not recommended to dress like you are "slumming."

See and Do

Grande Marche: One of West Africa's best, most diverse, and calmest big markets. Narrow, shaded, aisles in a grid pattern contain a mix of fabric, tailors, household goods, sports apparel, automotive parts, flip-flops, headscarves, baby clothes, and any manner of other goods. A few sample prices, after bargaining: - Regular men’s pants/suit material is 1,500F for un pantalon (1.25 meters, enough for a pair of pants). So by the meter it is 1,250-1,500F/meter. Of course there are some higher qualities and higher prices, but that is a starting point. - Shirt material comes pre-cut and wrapped in a plastic bag, 1500-2000F for short sleeve (manches courtes, 1.25 meters) or 2000-2500F for long sleeve (manches longes, 1.5 meters). You can get it non-pre-wrapped too. - Linen is 1000F/meter. - Satin ribbon that is about 1.5cm wide is 25F/yard. - Used socks are around 3 pairs for 1000F. New socks are around 400-450F each. - Men’s thrift-shop pants: 1,500F - Men’s pre-made shirts: 1,500F-2000F - Sunglasses are 500F for the all plastic models and 600F for the kind with a little metal accenting the plastic. - Cheap earrings from China: 100F or 150F.

Fabric-buying:As in other parts of West Africa, Niamey has a good selection of bright colorful pagne fabrics. Each pagne is 2 meters and it is generally sold in 3-pagne sets (in other words, 6 meters.) Sometimes they will sell you either 1 pagne or two pagnes, but other times they will only sell in 3-pagne increments. There is a wide selection of pagnes (30 or more shops/stands) just 1/2 block down the street from the Porte Principal of the Grande Marché. 90 percent of them in that section cost 5,000F for 3 pagnes. If you only want one pagne and they are willing to cut, it should cost 2,000F for just the one. If it is ENITEX brand (made in Niger), 3 pagnes cost only 4,000F, or one for 1,500F. There are a few brands that are more than 5,000 (7,000F, 12,500F and up) especially from shops within the Grand Marché.

Grande Mosquée: You can tour the Grande Mosquée, a gift to Niger from Qadafy. Tell the taxi “Grande Mosquée.” Just walk right up to the main doors of the Grande Mosque and the guardian will greet you and give you a tour. Or set up with him ahead of time -- his name is Issaka and his number is 96.30.24.27. You pay “whatever you think is appropriate” but be aware that you will have to pay three separate times: the first time is a donation to support the upkeep of the mosque and their charitable activities; the second time is a small donation for the women’s room of the mosque, and then a tip for the guide at the end. So, you might pay 1000F/400F/1000F per person but exact amounts are up to you. As part of the tour you can climb the minaret and take pictures. Tours are in French, Hausa, or Zarma. Not open Fridays (prayer day). He likes to rush you through, but take your time and enjoy it. You might need to “remind” him about the minaret. Be sure to dress conservatively; women need to wear a head scarf.

Musée Nationale and Zoo: The zoo is depressing, the museuam exhibits are decent, and artisanal goods are great. Take a taxi to the Musée Nationale. Entry costs 1000F. Bring water or buy it outside, as it is expensive inside. The exhibits and boutiques are closed in the afternoon from 12:00-15:00h though during that time you can still see the animals and artisans. Items in the boutiques have fixed prices. In the main artisan center: - A pair of silver earrings may cost 3000F. - A set of 6 extra-thin bangle bracelets may cost 6000F. - A small leather imprinted box may cost 1,000F. - A small square 18”x18” batik may cost 1000F. - A small, long, and skinny batik may cost 1,500F. - A one-size-larger long & skinny batik may cost 2,500F. - A round 6-person tablecloth and 6 napkins may cost 12-15,000F. - Small carved hippo or elephant may cost 1500F.

Wadatta Artisanal Market: For slightly different goods and no entry fee, try this great location for your craft purchases.

Centre Culturel Franco-Nigerien: Across the street from the Musée Nationale, they have a French library, offer French and Nigerien language courses, and have a great activities schedule featuring musical acts, debates, films, plays, etc. Pick up their performance guide and plan your trips into Niamey around some great concerts and events.

Katako Marché: An interesting cross between a Super Target, Home Depot, and an industrial complex. Watch your pockets, but wander for cheap food, metal goods, wood, hardwares, magic ingredients (gri-gri), etc. It’s also neat to watch the aluminum pots being poured.

The Hippodrome: Go out for an afternoon at the races at the hippodrome. To get there, go to the Grand Marché – Côté Chateau, look for the two gas stations on the corner, and in front of one you will see several bush taxis (vans) lined up facing away from the Grand Marché and towards the airport. Take one of these and get off at the hippodrome. A race is held Saturday afternoons around 17h or so, and it's free to get in. Go for the ambience, the pageantry, and if you like, make a wager.

Local neighborhood markets: Petite Marché, the main fruit and vegetable market in the center of town, can be unpleasant due to hassle, harrassment, pestering, crowds, and severely jacked-up prices for visitors. You can get most of the same fruits, vegetables, meats, and durable goods from other calmer, more pleasant neighborhood markets. One of the cleanest and newest is the cobblestone-paved Marché Albarka – good place for new visitors for a “market warm-up,” and there’s an air-conditioned SahelCom internet cafe outside (500F per hour, 250F per half-hour). Another great one is Marché Bonkaney – friendly with a little bit of everything for sale. The Yantala market is pretty big and also rather chill. Nouveau Marché and Wadata Marché are other options. Wadatta has the added benefit of being right next to the Wadata Artisanal Village as an alternative to the Musée as it is free to get in. Of course, at night, try the Marché de Nuit (aka Night Market) in Yantala. To get to each of these, just tell a taxi the name of the market itself.

Tour the Enitex Factory: Enitex is the local fabric factory. There is no official tour but one can be arranged. At least a few days in advance, send someone in your party to Enitex with a proper-looking typed or hand-written request in French addressed to Monsieur le Directeur, stating very politely who you are and that you’d like a tour. Go in and talk nicely to the director and get his permission and stamp and he’ll set a time when you can return with your group.

Giraffes: West Africa's last surviving giraffe herd is just 45 minutes outside of Niamey (near Koure) and guided tours are available. Find some friends and split the cost for a car and driver. You might pay as much as 45,000F for the car and driver depending on the season and how far out the giraffes have wandered. He drives out to Kouré (65 km) and you see a billboard on the left and a hut structure. You pay 4000F per person for tourists, or 3000F for “foreign residents” (i.e. Peace Corps volunteers or anyone else living and working in Niger), or 1000F for Nigeriens. Then you also pay 5,000F per carload for the Guide Association fee, and then a tip at the end for the guide himself. Some people arrange their transport through Abdou, 96-97-44-46 or for a large group you could go out to the mini-busses that leave from the Grand Marché and have a go at your own negotiations. Or talk to the city taxi drivers parked in front of Wadatta and aim to get the trip for around 20-25000F. Don’t forget your ID because you do go through a check-point. Also bring food, plenty of water, sunscreen, sunglasses, and cameras. During the rainy season, the giraffes are closer to the road. If this is the case you can avoid renting a car. Instead, go to Wadatta, buy a ticket, and take a bush taxi to Kouré, and then the guide will walk you over to the giraffes. “Close” can still mean an hour or more walk to get to them.

River outings, with or without hippos: River trips do not have to be expensive if you do not need to see hippos. Rent out a whole non-motorized canoe for about 1000F an hour on either side of the river. Expect to have to barter more around the Kennedy bridge and the hotels. To see the hippos, one way to do it is with Les Pirogues de l’Amitié, run by Sani Boureima, 93-80-69-51. From Grand Hotel, walk towards river. Turn into the first side street on the left and then go through the metal gate doors. They speak French, Zarma, and Hausa, and a tiny bit of English. The boat is a motorized, covered pirogue. You will have to bargain really hard. His starting prices are 25,000-30,000F for 2 hours to see the hippos, but Peace Corps volunteers have gotten it down to 15,000 with tons of bargaining and patience. The boat fits 10-12 people. A day-long trip is 50.000. You can also do a 2-day boat trip for 80,000F, and you provide your own meals and camping stuff.

Day or overnight along the river: If you have a friend with a vehicle or can rent one, you have several good options. Go to the Island Campement of Boubon, a half-hour drive up the Tillaberry Road. Cross the river for 50F/person and then on the island there’s a pleasant, reasonably-priced bar/restaurant. You can stay overnight in huts for 5000F. Another option is the Relais, a hotel campement on the river, open only on weekends. Just down from the Golf Club of Niamey on the Tillaberry road, they offer a reasonably-priced lunch, camel ride, and pirogue trip. Or just have a coke or beer and watch the river. The third option is Plage La Pillule, 10 km south of Niamey on the road to Say, just past the peage. Take water and lunch and rent out a shady spot in someone’s garden along the river. Canoe rides also available. Walk up the wash 2-3 km to the sand dunes. This “beach” is a favorite of well-off Niamey households.

Music at Centre Pour la Formation et Promotion Musicales (CFPM): Every Wednesday night at 4:30 there is a Rap Zone. Often there are people just jamming underneath the trees. They sell instruments, they give drum, dance, guitar lessons.

Music at Djoumkoume: Djoumkoume is a nice restaurant in Chateau Un. Almost every night they have live music, starting around 8 or 9pm. Sometimes there is a 1000-2000F cover. To get there, take a taxi to Pharmacie Cheatu Un. Then, instead of taking a right to go to Idrissa Nems you take a left. You’ll see it on your left.

Niamey Restaurants: cheap, moderate and expensive

The following restaurants and food stands in Niamey are listed with prices using this code: (E)=Expensive, (M)=Moderate, (I)=Inexpensive. Be sure to try all the local specialties rather than only sticking to ex-pat restaurants. Niamey food is incredible, unique, and not-to-be-missed. You didn't come all this way to eat the same food you get at home.

Zenabou’s Dumbou Stand (I): The best street food in Niamey! It’s well worth the trip. Take a taxi to “Sonara Deux”, which is a tall 9-story building covered in tan crosses. If the taximan does not know it, say “Maternité Issaka Gazoby”, which is across the street. Alternately, you can walk from Petite Marché, past Rip-off Row, past La Cloche Restaurant, and keep going – Sonora Deux is the second tall building on your right. Wrap around the building to the front (walking towards the bridge). She has a yellow & red Maggi hangar on the right. Sit down on the wooden benches and when it’s your turn she’ll point to you and ask what you want. Expect around a 15-minute wait to be served as she is quite popular. Get the dumbou with everything. Dumbou is a popular specialty of Niger, consisting of corn couscous, steamed moringa greens, black-eyed peas, a tomato-squash sauce, and spices. Women might get for 150F (waranza in Djerma) and men for 200F (way-tachi in Djerma). Meat is extra but an incredible addition to the dumbou. Try the pounded/pileéd guinea fowl mixed with sesame and hot pepper, for 100F (To say “meat for 100F” in Djerma, say “Ham, waranka”.) Careful, the pounded guinea fowl meat contains bones. Open Mon-Fri 12:30-4:30 or later. The guy with the cooler next to her has a gingery lemu-hari drink for 50F (small) or 100F (large), PureWater, and yogurts. Nice place to go if you are in the neighborhood of Petite Marché or the Musée.

Ghanaian Restaurant (I): Take a taxi to “Balafon – Pharmacie Independence” (just north of the Grand Marché). The restaurant is directly across the street from Pharmacie Independence. Try the fufu – delicious at 500F/bowl, generous meat portions are extra. Or, if you are feeling adventurous, try the bonkou – fermented corn dumplings with sauce. They also have soft drinks, PureWater, etc. Owners prefer to speak English. If you want a spoon you have to ask for it. Open for lunch (around 12:30) or dinner, but usually closed Sundays. Good place to go if you are in the neighborhood of Grande Marché.

Baobab Senegalese Restaurant (I): Take a taxi to “Rond Point Maourey” and from there take the street that heads towards the Grand Marché. In less than a half-block you will see its old Maggi sign on the right. Alternately, take a taxi to “Grande Marché – Côté Maourey” and start walking towards Rond Point Maourey – you will see it on the left. Favorites include sauce d’arachide (peanut sauce) for 800F including beef (more for chicken or fish), yassa (onion-based Senegalese specialty with veggies and meat) for 800F including beef (more for chicken or fish) and spaghetti-poisson (spaghetti and fish) for 2000F. They also have good bisap (sweetened hibiscus leave drink) for 200F/small bottle. Opens at 12:30, but the food arrives at 1pm. At night food is served from 7pm. By some accounts, the best Senegalese food in Niamey. Good place to go if you are in the neighborhood of either Grande Marché or Petite Marché.

Fast Food de L’Année (I): Delicious hamburgers for 800F or teazburgers (cheeseburgers) for 1400F. Probably the best burgers (stuffed with fries) in town. They also have egg burgers for the vegetarians, fries, omelets, tuna burgers, and lots of other stuff including soft drinks. There are two locations: 1) Take a taxi to “Centre Cultural Oumarou Ganda”, north of the Grande Mosquée. From there, walk north towards the yellow Sonitrav sign and look for their shop on corner of the next crossroads; 2) Take a taxi to Rond Point Grand Hotel and they are on the west side of the round point on the road that heads down to the Kennedy Bridge.

Restaurant Atlantique aka Ziggy’s (I): Take a taxi to “Hotel Sahel”. Stop the taxi before he turns into the hotel. Walk 20 feet further down the road (east) and turn into the Piscine Olympique. Walk through the empty sandy lot, greet the friendly guardian on his pedal bike, walk behind the often-empty Olympic pool (but if it’s open you can go for a swim for 1000F), and into the restaurant. Food and drinks are ordered separately and come on separate bills. Cokes are 300F, conjunctures (small Bière Niger) are 600F. Food options are brochettes (steak – say “filet”, merguez – beef sausage, tongue, liver, and kidney) for 250F, French fries, peas, green beans, and when in season, fried plantains – each of these plates is 1000F. They also have a tasty salad (at your own risk), ½ chicken, or full chicken. Great place to take newly-arrived visitors for sunset because of the unbeatable view.

Restaurant Liberté (I): Take a taxi to Rond Point Liberté. Start walking in the direction of the Stade, and it is there on the right. It is run by a nice Sudanese guy who speaks English. The prices he gives you in English are in Nigerian naira – so you need to multiply the price by 5 to arrive at the price in CFA. For instance, if he says 200F, it is really 1,000F. Anyway, they have delicious steak, fries, salad, rice and sauce, etc. Nice place to go after a shopping trip to Grande Marché.

Delicious Senegalese restaurant by Petite Marche (along Rip-Off Row) (I): Tell the taxi “Score.” From Score, start walking towards the restaurant La Cloche. It is on the left, before La Cloche, tucked in amongst all of the souvenir sellers. Menu and prices are on the wall. They also have good bisap, homemade yoghurt, cokes, etc. Probably just a lunch place but not sure.

Grande Marché Hide-away (I): From Grande Marché’s Porte Principal (main entrance), head away from the marché. On your left, tucked in amongst other shops and hidden behind a bunch of street vendors, you’ll see a yellow-painted building with the Flag beer sign. Once you go in they have an enclosed shaded courtyard with wooden booths and tables. They have beer and cokes, and plenty of street food sellers are right outside for various food options.

Ile de Gorée Senegalese Restaurant, Chateau 1 (I-M): In Chateau 1 one can also have quality Senegalese food. Food is served from 12:30pm till it runs out and again in the evenings from around 7pm. Slightly higher prices than the other Senagalese places but still good. From the main Chateau 1 intersection, take the eastern road and it is just down a little way on the left.

Hot Pockets stuffed with curried mashed potatoes, and other goodies (I): Take a taxi to Rond Point Liberté. Head north for 1/3 block and she is on the left, with the hot pockets displayed in a glass case, next to a tiny blue-painted shop. She is Nigerian and speaks English. Prices are cheap. This is a good place for a snack if you are at the Grand Marché. From the Grand Marché, go to Côté Maourey and walk down the road that goes towards the Stade. In a couple blocks you will see Pharmacie Liberté and the round point. She also has delicious fried dough cakes wrapped around hard-boiled eggs.

Le Bar Snob (I): Delicious and cheap food. Run by a woman of Asian descent. Call ahead the day before and order the Chinese soup (20.73.24.83). Ask a taxi for “Pharmacie Inikwara” and then walk north for half a block. Look for the big cement swan planters out front.

Maquis Africa Queen (I): Amazing food cooked by a sweet Cameroonian lady, plus cheap drinks, tucked away off the street. Ask what she has available for the day as the menu is flexible and the things that she has prepared for the day might not even be on the menu. Try the Soupe de Viande ou Poisson, an incredible meat soup with a Thai lemongrass flavor. Other delicious plates are the Eba with sauce feuille (manioc fufu with a chapata topping that tastes like sautéed spinach), Eba with Ndole sauce (salty but good), and Riz Cantonais. (Again, some of the above are not on the menu – ask for them or ask what she has available that day.) There is also delicious steak with sautéed veggies, plus other basics like fries, petit pois, mixed salad, and aloco (plantains, when in season). Prices are very reasonable, 600F to 1500F for most plates, and conjunctures are 450F. Take a taxi to Rond Point Maourey. If you are facing the hotel, walk ½ block along the street that runs left of the hotel. It is almost across the street from the travel agency SatGuru, but further east.

The Meat Sandwich Guy (I): The meat sandwich guy is on the left Mali-Bero road, just west of the Stade road. Taxi to “Pharmacie Mali-Bero” then with the pharmacy on your left, walk a half-block and look for his red Nescafe booth just past the technical school. He is open to coincide with the breaks at the school. He is ready to serve around 10h and 16h. Most Peace Corps volunteers use him for a quick stop in passing for his delicious meat sandwiches stuffed with fries. However, he is more than just meat sandwiches. Vegetarians should try his omelet sandwich. However, very highly recommended is his version of nacho fries. This is a mountain of fries topped with seasoned ground beef or a fried egg, sauce, mayo etc. all for about 750F. Sit down, order the fries, and get a coffee to boot. Well worth taking your time there rather than just doing take-out.

Fried cheese (Wagash) (I): In season, this is a delicacy coming to us from Benin and Togo. It sells in the Petit Marché as red discus-shaped rounds that you can then cook up yourself. We do not recommend eating it raw. Alternatively, there are two women who sell it fried and ready to eat. One is just behind Score near the Senegalese Restaurant with the blue walls. Ask around as she is not always there. The other is near the gas station “Station Katako” on the road leading into town from the Stade, in the trees on the North side of the street that form the Tillaberi and Gotheye bush taxi station. She sells all sorts of chichena (fried bean cakes) and patats (fried sweet potatoes) etc. so the cheese can sometimes be hidden in the pile. Look for it in the center of her wares in a small plastic bowl. Buy some (25F apiece) and then eat it with rice from the rice lady a little to the west.

A great street food lady with fufu and wagash under a big tent (I): Wagash is also sometimes available at a very popular food tent that runs from 9am to 1pm across from the Grand Mosquée, on the street heading south. It is basically at the crossroads on the south-eastern corner of the grand mosquée compound. There is usually a swarm of taxicabs parked there while drivers grab breakfast/brunch. Good pounded yam (fufu) and lemu-hari drink too.

Good hand-made grilled sausage (I): Take a taxi to Cinema Soni and get out at Avenue Arewah. Start walking north on Avenue Arewah. Pass one intersection and then look for him half-way along the blank wall of the school on the right. He is sometimes hidden in among the Ghanaian semi-trailers that use the wall as a waiting point.

“Pepperoni-style” hand-made grilled sausage (I): Take a taxi to Rond Point Eglise. Walk south towards Marina Market. He is at a Maggi grill on the left just a block or two down. 250F/sausage with condiments. He is there in the afternoons and evenings. He may not look like he has sausage if he is not grilling, but he keeps the cooked meat covered and warm so step up and ask!

Grilled Meat (I): Down the road from the bar La Toulousain/Ebenezers is a meat griller with a Maggi stand. There are always cars parked next to it waiting for well-seasoned meat. Rumor has it that President Tandja likes to get his meat from here. However, there is grilled mutton on almost any street corner in Niamey and it is always delicious. Specify that you prefer meat to fat. 500F gets you a small serving for 1-2 people.

Fried plantains (I): In season, find them on either side of the intersection just North of the Grand Marché, formed by Avenue Arewah and Boulevard de l’Independence. One of these women makes them as little fried balls of banana bread, which are excellent with sugar or her spicy salsa. She is from Ghana and speaks English.

Delicious Kilishi (beef jerky): Kilishi is a specialty of Niger. There are three varieties: plain, hot pepper, and spicy peanut butter. Never buy it from Katako Marché as it is dried right over the aluminum smelters (worth seeing sometime). Try instead one of the smaller operations around town, such as the drying racks just east of Rond Point Liberté or at the Yantala night market. If you buy it on the street, ask the seller where it was made as you really do not want the stuff that has been dried in Katako.

Dégué (I): Dégué are little millet balls, and when they are in yoghurt they are reminiscent of a whole-grain tapioca pudding. Excellent dégué is available next to “Nigelec siege” in Plateau, within easy walking distance from the Centre Culturel Americain. Martine’s stand is slightly hidden, next to a lady selling dumbou but if you ask someone will point you in the right direction. It is usually sold in increments of 150, 200, 250 and so on in sachets or sit in and enjoy the dégué with a plastic bowl and ladle. Dégué is also available from sellers in the Grand Marché if you are in there and need a snack while shopping. Or ask around where you are and see if someone is not selling out of their concession nearby where you are staying.

Best bisap and apollo in town (I): Bisap is a sweetended hibiscus-leaf drink with mint. Apollo is a frozen slushy made from the baobab fruit, with a deep rich flavor. Take a taxi to Lamordé Ganda from the Grand Marché or Petit Marché for 200F. Pass the big mosque and then get out at a white-walled square boutique with a blue-green door a ways along on the left. If it is closed, ask for Rashida in the courtyard to the right.

Masaki’s (M): Some nights there is live music at Masaki’s,. Taxi to Mairie Commune 1 and walk east. Look for their fliers or drop in and ask what is planned. It is run by a French guy and his Nigerien wife. Also serves as a hotel with nice rooms.

Bellissimo’s (M): A swanky rooftop escape overlooking Rond Point Maorey. Go up there for drinks, dinner, dancing late, pedicures, watching the world go by. Have a beer and watch the rond point for accidents and near misses.

Amandine (M-E): Cakes, lattes, goat cheese soup, pain de chocolat, pain des epinards, salads, sandwiches, Lebanese specialties, and many other good things. Bright, clean, and modern, it is a very popular favorite amongst anyone who enters its doors. Taxi to “Score” (by Petite Marché), and it’s right across the street.

Byblos (M-E): Lebanese Cuisine. Phone: 20-72-44-05. Dinner (opens at 1930). Located on Tillaberi Road. Take a taxi to "Pharmacie Yantala." This inviting restaurant offers the best in Lebanese fare. The mezzé is the meal to order: it’s a sampler platter of taboulé, hummus, baba ganouj, meat pies and other Lebanese delicacies for 10,000F -- split it between 2-3 people. The falafels and chawermas are also very tasty. Service is friendly and efficient.

La Casbah (E): North African Cuisine (M to E) – Phone: 20-75-26-02. Dinner (opens at 1930). Coming from Tillaberi, turn onto Maurice Delens toward Mali Bero and then take the very first left. You’ll see the sign immediately. This delightful and attractively decorated restaurant serves delicious couscous dishes and traditional Algerian tadjines. Try the Salad Casbah as an appetizer with its variety of tomato, eggplant and green peppers. For the carnivore, try the Couscous Royale, which has a good portion of chicken, mutton and sausage brochettes. They also have a fine selection of cocktails including daiquiris. Service is first rate.

La Cascade (M): Italiand and Lebanese. Pizzas are thin crust, but good. If there are a few of you, try one of the Lebanese sampler platters, which are delicious. Some swear La Cascade has the best Lebanese food in town. Located behind Score and the top of the Petit Marché.

Chez Chin’s (E): Chinese. Phone: 20-72-25-28. Lunch and dinner (1030 - 1400 and 1730 – 2300). Good food and extremely popular. Has fresh noodles and hot pot (order one day in advance). Good date place because of its romantic atmosphere. Great for family meals because the service is fast and the kids can roam in the garden, look at the menagerie of animals or play on the swings and monkey bars. Located on Tillaberi Road, not far from Pharmacie Yantala. Taxi to OMS and it's across the street.

Le Damsi (M-E): Continental. Phone: 20-73-44-91. Breakfast, lunch and dinner. A favorite among the expats because of its extensive and varied menu, including everything from burgers and pseudo-milkshakes to decent Chinese and even Japanese food. Try the pizza. Sonara I Building (same building as AIR FRANCE) on Rue du Souvenir.

La Diamangou (E): French and African cuisine. Phone: 20-73 51 43. Lunch and dinner (check this - it changes). On the Corniche Gamkalley. Dine on a boat. Sunday lunch by reservation only. Very slow service, but good food. Good for a change in atmosphere. It’s also possible to rent the boat and have your meal while cruising the Niger -- 30,000F per person, minimum of 10 people.

Le Djinkounme (M): Lunch and dinner (1230–1430 and 1830–2300). 20-72-21-81. Closed Mondays. Great atmosphere, with dining outside or in a small hut. Food from all over western Africa. The menu has good descriptions, and the waitress helps you with your order to make sure you’ll like your meal. Excellent brochettes. Right off Chateau Un on the same road as the BraNiger outlet, heading north.

Dragon D’or (M): Chinese. Phone: 20-73 41-23. Lunch and dinner (1200–1400 and 1900–2400). Dine al fresco or indoors. A/C. Run by a Chinese family. The food is excellent. Can’t go wrong with this choice. Off the rondpoint Grand Hotel -- look for the Christmas lights. Friday nights has Karaoke.

L’Exotique (E): French and African Cuisine. Phone: 20-73-40-50. Dinner. Opens at 1800. Service is a little slow but the ambiance makes the meal worth the wait. Located directly across from the Commisserate Central, 2 blocks past Dragon d’Or. Good seafood dishes and good pizza. Serves free bread with pimenty salsa. Local music groups Friday and Saturday nights starting at 9pm.

Le Gourmet (M-E): Another highly rated Lebanese restaurant tucked away in Chateau 1. Off the main road that turns into Maurice Delens. Look for the plaque, on the same side of the street as ChouBoy and Jojo Market.

Grande Hotel (E): Good view of the river. Pizzas running 5000F and up, among other things. Jazz on Friday nights and 250F brochettes during happy hour.

Idrissa Nems (I-M): Cheap and good Chinese food. Tell the taxi Pharmacy Chateau Un. They will also deliver but you have to pay for the service and it is often a wait, so order early.

Maquis 2000 (M): West African. Phone: 20-73-55-56. Lunch and dinner. Very popular African restaurant for both Americans and Nigeriens alike. Owned by a Cote d’Ivorian, reasonably priced, nice ambiance. One plate and a few side dishes is enough for two. A little tough to find and very slow service but it’s worth the effort. Not far from the Eglise Baptiste.

Le Pilier (E): Italian. Phone: 20-72-49-85. Lunch and dinner (1230 – 1400 and 1830 – 2330). Another expat favorite--for their desserts and their meals. Homemade pastas, ricotta and mozzarella cheeses. They even have cappuccino and tiramisu. Everything on the menu is good. Located on Rue de la Tapoa.

La Pizzeria (M-E): Pizza and Pasta. Phone: 20-74-12-40. Take out or eat-in. Lunch and dinner (1130 - 1330 and 1830 - 2230). Closed Mondays. A wide selection of pizza toppings, and the service is quick. Good, thin crusted pizza in a comfortable setting. Also great calzones. Great for kids as they can watch the cook make the pizza. Near Rue de Combat, by Croissant d’Or on Rue du Commerce. Tell the taxi "Siege BIA", and it is just down the street on the right.

Les Roniers (E): French. Lunch and dinner, 12:00–3:00 and 7:30–Midnight. Phone: 20-72-31-38. Great atmosphere, clean, and attractive. Good food, good service. On same road as U.S. embassy, toward Rio Bravo.

Le Shanghai (M-E): Chinese. Phone 96-90-34-37. Lunch and dinner. Dine indoors or outdoors. A/C and private party rooms available. This restaurant is run by the same owners of Le Dragon D’Or. The food is very good. Located on Mali Bero, one block south from the intersection with Maurice Delens.

Tabakady (E): French cuisine. Phone: 20-73 58 18. Reservations required. Opens for dinner at 19:30h. A very pleasant restaurant, decorated with photos of the Sahara Desert and the Tuareg. If you ask in advance, the owner will show a slide presentation. The food is excellent. Off of the Place de la Republique, on Avenue de President Karl Carsten.

Le Watta (M-E): Upscale Ivorian restaurant. Tell a taxi “Station Terminus” and then walk north ½ block. Not far from the Grand Hotel and Hotel Terminus. Serves “Western” and a variety of West African dishes. Friendly staff.

Zanzibar (E): Very small portions but a wide selection of good food, and a friendly owner from Australia.

This information is valid as of 2008.

Niamey nightlife, bars, clubs & pubs

Keep in mind that drinking alcohol is generally forbidden in Muslim culture, so take extra care to keep drunken inappropriate behavior behind closed doors and out of the public eye.

Most of the Western-style restaurants above also serve drinks.

  • Burkinabé millet or sorghum beer bars (called dolo or tchouk): There are three, all in Yantala Ancien, behind the French Embassy. The easiest place to start is to have a cab drop you off on the paved road that runs along the east wall of the French Embassy. Start walking along the dirt road that runs along the North (back) wall of the Embassy. You will pass a Christian Pentacostal church. Take the right after the church, then another immediate right, then the next left. She runs the operation out of her courtyard, is really nice if you are kind to her and her kids, and she will help keep the drunks at bay. Late afternoon is a great time to go. It is also a great cultural experience as almost everyone there is from Burkina. Take some ice if you want cool dolo. She has dolo Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and sometimes Monday. Two different women make it on the other days of the week as well as the weekend. For the other two, it is best to go to the first lady, pretend like you did not know she was not serving that day, and tip a kid 50 francs to take you to the next location. Or, from Rond Point Yantala, walk towards the French Embassy a few blocks and then veer off on a diagonal road to your right. Take the next right, then a quick left into her compound at the end of a long and narrow path between her houses. The only problem is there are two diagonal roads… try the first one and then ask someone if you get confused.
  • Night Market Bar: Take a taxi to the “Marché de Nuit–Yantala” just before sunset. Go in and get a drink plus street food (both outside and inside) at the cozy locals-only bar “L’Epervier” until it gets dark. Then, go out on the street and shop for modern clothing in the glow of black lights amid the throngs of young men and women.
  • La Legone: a bar for the locals. It has a great feel and is tucked away in the Nouveau Marché neighborhood. Take a taxi to “La Legone, Nouveau Marché” and if the taximan does not know it, just go to the Nouveau Marché and then ask. It is two or three blocks west of the Nouveau Marché on one of the diagonals coming out of the marché. The beer is cold and they have great fare for lunch and dinner if you are interested in local food. She has riz-gras, rice, pâte, spaghetti, great sauces, and freshly fried fish for lunch and a few other additions for dinner as well like a good appetizer salad “hors d’oeuvres” and other meats. Well worth the trip to a local bar in a non-expat part of town.
  • Restaurant Atlantique - amazing river view, especially great around sunset. (See the "Eat" section)
  • La Cloche - Pool-playing and casual atmosphere. Lebanese and western fare.
  • Grand Hotel Terrace [1] - amazing river view, especially good around sunset. Jazz and happy hour brochettes on Friday nights.

Learn

  • American Cultural Center
  • Centre Culturel Franco-Nigerien Jean Rouch (see description above)
  • Universite Abdou Moumouni (National public university)

Niamey souvenirs & shopping

Both the Musée National (National Museum) and the Wadata Artisanal Village have excellent traditional craft and leather good items for sale with the workshops on the premises. Other African art items can be found south of the Petit Marché or near Chateau Un.(Water Tower).

The currency used in Niger is the CFA Franc (FCFA - XOF). $1 = 445.337 FCFA (as of December 13th, 2007).

Niamey cheap and luxurious hotels, youth hostels & lodging

  • Chez Tatayi [2]: A small homey place near the Grand Hotel. They even have dorms for budget travelers. 5000F or less per night. The owner Natalie is French/Canadian and is very nice. The rooms vary in price depending if you want A/C or a private room, but all are very affordable. Telephone 20.74.12.81, e-mail auberge@tatayi.com.
  • Mission Catholique: A cheap and clean place to stay 2 blocks from Rond Point Maourey. Around 10000F for a two-bed room.
  • Villa Chinois: Very cheap government lodging that is open to guests as long as the government is not using it for a training. Less than 5000F a night. On the road of the Stade (stadium) almost to Mali-bero.
  • Hotel Masaki: Nice rooms, good music some nights, and great bar food. Run by a French guy and his Nigerien wife. Attached gallery also has some interesting art on occasion. On Mali-bero just off the Stade road.
  • Hotel Maourey: Centrally located at Rond Point Maourey. 35-40,000F per night
  • Hotel Oasis: On Mali-bero several blocks west of the Stade road. Over 30000F per night.
  • Grand Hotel du Niger [3]. (+227) 20 73 26 41. Four-star hotel. Fully renovated, magnificent view over Niger river and the city of Niamey. Great jazz and brochettes on Friday nights.
  • Hotel Sahel: Rue du Sahel, (+227) 20732431. Air conditioned rooms with showers. On the river, with great views.
  • Hotel Tenere: A few blocks from Grande Marché.
  • Hotel Terminus: Rue du Sahel, (+227) 20732692. Each room have own entrance from patio. Good restaurant. Swimming pool.
  • Tenere Hotel: Blvd de la Liberte, (+227) 20732020.
  • Hotel Gaweye: (+227) 20723400 Five-star hotel. Don't walk near the ravine that runs near there to the center of town - renown for banditry.
  • Homeland Hotel: (+227) 20732606
  • Hotel Les Roniers: (+227) 20723138

Contact

  • Internet, several "multimedia centres" or "Cyber-cafés". (Slow) modem and satellite connection. Rate - about 500 FCFA (1€) / hour. Wi-Fi is emerging in the city and can already be purchased on a 'pay as you go' basis with scratch-off cards in the better hotels and in the city center.

Get out

  • Regular bus connection to the historic Saharan town of Agadez, which is about 1000 km from Niamey. Bus routes also exist for Maradi, Zinder and several of the neighboring West African cities (Cotonou, Ouagadougou, etc) in other countries. Some of the buses have air conditioning--ask which ones, but be prepared to pay a little extra.

This page was last edited at 14:15, on 13 November 2008 by Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel. Based on work by Tom Johnson, Wikitravel user(s) Valtteri, Morph, Jake73 and Episteme, Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel and others.

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