New Orleans - Faubourg Marigny
The Faubourg Marigny (FAW-borg MER-ih-nee), or usually just Marigny, is a hip neighborhood just "below" (down river from) the French Quarter. It has the air of what the French Quarter was a generation or two ago before there was so much tourist development. It has a few small hotels and many bed-and-breakfasts, as well as a number of good restaurants, coffee shops, and music venues. Part of the city's old high ground, it fortunately escaped the worst of the post-Katrina disaster.
Architecturally, the Marigny is known for its many styles of Creole cottages, most of which date to the 19th century. Its "heart" is Washington Square Park (bounded by Frenchmen Street, Royal Street, Dauphine Street, and Elysian Fields Avenue). Frenchmen Street is the main nightlife district, with half a dozen live music clubs and just as many restaurants in four short blocks.
Due to its odd shape (following a bend in the Mississippi River), locals often divide the Marigny into the "Marigny triangle" and the "Marigny rectangle." The triangle runs from Esplanade Avenue (abutting the French Quarter) to Elysian Fields Avenue. The rectangle begins at Elysian Fields and runs to the railroad tracks on Press Street, where the Marigny abuts the Bywater district (the "Ninth Ward").
At Mardi Gras, the Marigny is one of the city's hidden hot spots, popular with locals who enjoy partying in the streets without the drunken frat-boy atmosphere of Bourbon Street. Crowds gather at the corner of Royal and Kerlerec (outside the R-Bar), as well as at the intersection of Royal and Franklin. Elaborate costumes are the order of the day, along with brass bands and many drummers. Two weeks before Mardi Gras, the Marigny is also the starting place for the Krewe du Vieux, a satirical, raunchy parade in 19th-century Carnival style, complete with small floats drawn by krewe members and mules.
Known for its bohemian atmosphere and low rents (though the latter is changing), the Marigny is home to many artists and musicians, as well as a sizable gay and lesbian population. Among its notable residents are chef Paul Prudhomme, painter James Michalopoulas, and actors Harry Shearer and Jennifer Coolidge, who can be seen around town when they're not working in L.A. Local writers include New Orleans mystery writers Julie Smith and J.M. Redmann, as well as Andrei Codrescu, Michael Swindle, and Kevin Allman.
- 13 Monaghan, 517 Frenchmen St., . An Irish themed bar and grill, squeezed into an odd warehouse space. Good Irish beers and late-night grub (till 11am - 3 am or later). The Huevos Rancheros and pulled pork sandwich are great! See Menu: http://13monaghan.com/menu.php
- Cafe Rose Nicaud, 634 Frenchmen St. Coffees, teas, and fresh deli sandwiches, quiches.
- Cake Cafe, 2440 Chartres St. Open 7am-3pm Tues-Sun, closed Mondays. Great bakery with sandwiches. Menu: http://www.nolacakes.com Phone: 504-943-0010
- Flora's, 2600 Royal. Ultra-funky coffeehouse with light fare, as well as poetry readings, board games, and the like.
- La Peniche, 1940 Dauphine St. (at Touro). Open 24 hours except Wed. Locals go here all day and night, particularly after the clubs; it's a cozy coffeeshop with a full bar. Peniche means "barge" in French because the building is made from barge wood previously used to carry goods down river. The Touro omelette is delicious. Friendly and fun waitstaff. NOLA cops eat there too. Open 8AM Thurs through 7AM Tues.
- Marigny Perks, 2401 Burgundy St, corner of Mandeville St. Friendly coffee shop open from 7am to 10pm every day with free wireless internet and easy parking. Gourmet coffee and tea, soup, salad, sandwich and pastry selection, all reasonably priced. Marigny Perks hosts various meetings and groups and is gay friendly.
- Mona's, 504 Frenchmen St. Middle Eastern cuisine, with excellent shwarmas, and an extensive vegetarian selection. Other locations around the city.
- Schiro's Community Cafe & Bar, 2483 Royal St., Phone: (504) 944-6666. Great food, reasonably priced. Great vegan/vegetarian selections, even for breakfast. Small community market attached.
- The Orange Couch, 2339 Royal St., coffee house with light snacks and ice cream. Phone: 504-267-7327
- Sound Cafe, 2700 Chartres St.(at the corner of Port), Phone: (504) 947-4477. 160 year old building. Very reasonably priced. Excellent coffee and home made sandwiches etc. Beautiful open ambiance. Art, pristine acoustics. Home to the Hot 8 Brass Band every Thurs. (5-7pm) and a regular line-up of local talent through the week. Very local meeting place of many post-Katrina survivor groups. OPEN: early for the birds, CLOSE: early at 7pm for safety's sake.
Snacks & supplies
- Alois J. Binder Bakery, 940 Frenchmen St., Phone: (504) 947-1111. Breads and pastries to go.
- Adolfo's, 611 Frenchmen St. (upstairs from the Apple Barrel Bar). Cozy, slightly quirky yet charming Italian. Let the waiters guide you to the nightly specials.
- Feelings, 2600 Chartres St., . The way the French Quarter used to be 50 years ago. Great piano bar, balcony overlooking nice courtyard. Definitely a locals place and great value, but not for the homophobic.
- Hookah Cafe, 500 Frenchmen St. (504) 943-1101, . This popular night spot has caught the attention of Tom Fitzmorris, local food guru, who hailed Chef David's Bouillabaisse as one of the best in the city. The Fried Green Napoleon has also received much acclaim. The menu is decidedly contemporary Cajun cuisine. Open Tuesday through Sunday, daily Chef Specials are available only Thursday through Sunday.
- Marigny Brasserie, 640 Frenchmen St., . Formerly Cafe Marigny. Good menu, and a popular wine and martini bar.
- Praline Connection, 542 Frenchmen Street, (504) 943-3934. Much more than pralines (a sweet pecan candy), good Creole soul food at a reasonable price.
- Sukho Thai, 1913 Royal St. Authentic Thai food in a neighborhood cafe.
- Wasabi, 900 Frenchmen St. Excellent sushi and Japanese cuisine. Good selection of sakes.
- Apple Barrel, 609 Frenchmen St., Phone: (504) 949-9399. Sometimes has live music too. Local characters, low prices, no attitude.
- Cafe Brasil, Frenchmen St. at Chartres St.; Great live music bar with erratic schedule. When there's a hot band, there's often as much of a party on the sidewalk as in the club. The club often features artworks by independent New Orleans artists hand-picked by the eccentric owner Ade.
- Cowpokes, 2240 St. Claude St., . Gay country-western bar with a dance floor. Very friendly and comfortable for all.
- d.b.a., 618 Frenchmen St., . New York style bar on Frenchmen, if you need a bit of sophistication when you drink. Great selection of beers.
- Dragon's Den, 435 Esplanade. Very hip but dark bar above "Siam" Thai restaurant on Esplanade across from the old Mint; Often has a band; serves food and has excellent atmosphere-get comfy on floor pillows and great balcony overlooking Esplanade.
- Friendly Bar, 2301 Chartres St. (at Marigny). Gay neighborhood bar where locals gather to hang out in a no-pressure atmosphere.
- Hookah Cafe, 500 Frenchmen St. (at Decatur). Hip but slightly pricey place that in addition to drinks and smoking hookahs serves some of the best contemporary Cajun food in town.
- Iggy's, 1943 N. Rampart St. (at Touro). Neighborhood bar with a lot of neighborhood characters; very friendly for all. Frequently serves food.
- The John, 2040 Burgundy St. (at Frenchmen). Relaxed neighborhood hangout with rockabilly, country, and punk on the jukebox. Named for the gold-painted toilet seats that serve as stools at the tables. With inexpensive stiff drinks served up in Mason jars, this spot for locals offers one of the best deals on Frenchmen st.
- Mimi's in the Marigny, 2601 Royal St. (at Franklin). The toniest bar in the Marigny (but hardly pretentious), with billiards, occasional live music, and tapas served from the restaurant upstairs. Good selection of beers and specialty drinks. Hip Hop and Funk DJ's friday and saturday nights. Lots of singles on the weekends.
- Phoenix, 941 Elysian Fields (at N. Rampart), . Gay neighborhood bar by day, catering to the leather crowd at night. Also the official United Cab stand for catching rides back into the French Quarter. 24 hours.
- R-Bar, 1431 Royal St. (at Kerlerec), . Hip but laid-back hangout that's comfortable by day and happening at night; great jukebox.
Frenchmen Street is in the Faubourg Marigny neighborhood just below the lower edge of the Quarter. A 4 block stretch of bars, restaurants, and coffee shops mixed with live music venues make it one of the city's most hip places, catering more to locals than tourists (though tourists are certainly welcome, and welcomed).
On any given night, one might find modern jazz, swinging traditional jazz, Latin American style music, rockabilly, and more within this small area. Except for the last club listed, the below venues are all either on this stretch of Frenchmen Street or just around the corner from it on Esplanade Avenue.
The best way to enjoy Frenchmen (particularly on weekends) is to walk the street with a drink in hand, listening to the music in each club. Many don't have cover charges, but most require at least a one-drink minimum to enter and listen to music.
- Blue Nile, 532 Frenchmen St., .
- Cafe Brasil, 2100 Chartres St. (at corner of Frenchmen), Phone: (504) 949-0851: Eclectic world music.
- DBA 618 Frenchmen St., Phone: (504) 942-3731, .
- Checkpoint Charlies, 501 Esplanade (on the corner of Decatur/Esplanade), 949-7102. This bar has bands, pool tables and laundry facilities if your clothes need awashin'. Local rock and jump bands.
- Dragon's Den, 435 Esplanade (above Siam Cafe), Phone: (504) 949-1750. A charmingly dilapidated, well-hidden club (go down the alley next to the Siam Cafe, then up the stairs to your left), with a balcony on Esplanade and an opium-den feel inside. Live music, occasional poetry slams.
- Snug Harbor, 626 Frenchmen St., . Perhaps the city's foremost modern jazz venue.
- Spotted Cat 623 Frenchmen St., Phone: (504) 943-3887, . Cozy bar with good hot jazz. The "Jazz Vipers" band are a local favorite.
- Sweet Lorraine's Jazz Club, 1931 St. Claude Avenue, Phone: (504) 945-9654, . This is the neighborhood's noted jazz venue away from all the concentration of other venues on Frenchmen Street. Sweet Lorraine's is in the "back" of Marigny on Saint Claude (same street as Rampart Street in the French Quarter; it changes name after it crosses Esplanade Avenue). Local modern jazz; they also serve dinners of Creole and Soul Food 5 to 10pm.
- Aaron Ingram Haus, 1012 Elysian Fields, Phone: (504) 949-3110, . One and two bedroom suites only six blocks from world-famous Bourbon St and within walking distance to most New Orleans attractions.
- Chez Nous Guest House, 825 Touro St. One and two bedroom private suites. Fantastic location, one block from Frenchman St and three blocks from Bourbon St. Phone:(504) 432-7072.
- Chez Palmiers Bed & Breakfast, 1744 N. Rampart Street, Phone: toll free(877) 233-9449, .
- The Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine Street, Phone: (504) 949-7327,
- . An outstanding 19th century mansion, an impressive guest list, and a wonderful hostess, Cleo. In and of itself worth a visit to New Orleans.
- Creole Inn, 2471 Dauphine, Phone: (504) 312-2949, . A cozy and affordable B&B in the trendy Faubourg Marigny, just a short walk to the French Quarter!
- Elysian Fields Inn, 930 Elysian Fields Avenue, . Convenient for walking into the French Quarter. Has secure covered parking.
- The Frenchmen Hotel, 417 Frenchmen Street, Phone: (504) 948-2166, .
- La Dauphine, Residence des Artistes, 2316 Dauphine St., . A Bohemian, laid-back, unpretentious, 3 room 1896 guest house for the budget-minded traveler- with a 3-night minimum; private baths, free Internet & great walking location for French Quarter-Marigny. Best to book online at website: http://www.ladauphine.com Advance reservations required. Ray & Kim are the warm and friendly hosts.
- La Maison Marigny Bed and Breakfast, 1421 Bourbon Street, . One of Travel & Leisure Magazine's TOP TEN B&Bs.
- Royal Street Courtyard Bed & Breakfast, 2438 Royal St., Phone: (504) 943-6818, 
- Royal Street Inn B&B, 1431 Royal at Kerlerec, Phone: (504) 449-5535, . "B&B" here may stand for "Bed and Beverage", as this is upstairs from the R-Bar.
- Old Town Inn, 1001 Marigny St., Phone: (504)949-5815. Cool historic inn, three separate buildings, dating from the 1800's. Located across the street from the Phoenix and Cowpokes and three blocks from Washington square. Good community feel in a very localized neighborhood open to all. One bright yellow building you shouldn't miss.
- The Burgundy Bed and Breakfast, 2513 Burgundy St., Phone: (504) 942-1463, (800) 970-2153, . Gay owned and operated, affordable rates, walk to the French Quarter.
- Pierre Coulon Guest House, 714 Spain Street, Phone: (504) 943-6692 & toll-free: (866) 328-1497, . Comfortable small apartment very convenient to the Marigny bars and restaurants and an easy walk to the French Quarter. A great location from which to explore the many different attractions of New Orleans!!
- Sunburst Inn, 819 Mandeville Street, Phone (504) 947-1799 . Historic Victorian House with one and two bedroom suites with private bath. A short walk to French Quarter. Suites has lots of nice ammenties, located in quite charming neighborhood.
- Auld Sweet Olive Bed and Breakfast, 2460 North Rampart Street, Phone (504) 947-4332. (http://www.sweetolive.com) Historic home with six rooms, each with private bath. Hand painted wall treatments, attractive gardens.
- Cafe Rose Nicaud, 634 Frenchmen. Free wireless Internet (with purchase).
- Marigny Perks, 2401 Burgundy (at Mandeville). Coffeehouse with Internet service (bring your own laptop). Non-smoking.
Like with many urban neighborhoods, there have been problems with crime in Marigny and in the nearby Bywater neighborhood. The Frenchmen Street corridor with most music venues and restaurants is generally safe. Cabs are plentiful and are always a good idea if you're traveling to areas with less "foot traffic."
Access to Surrounding Areas
The lower part of the French Quarter is adjacent to the Faubourg Marigny. The Bywater serves as the Marigny's downriver neighbor. Drive or take the bus down beautiful Esplanade Avenue toward City Park (located in Mid-City New Orleans) where you can visit NOMA museum and the free admission, not-to-be missed, Sculpture Garden; alternatively catch the Riverfront Streetcar just beyond the floodwall at the foot of Esplanade Avenue- this will take you lengthwise through the French Quarter along the Mississippi.
This page was last edited at 16:36, on 16 December 2008 by Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel. Based on work by Nick Roux, bob, David, Bob Patience and Scott Graves, Wikitravel user(s) Infrogmation, Cacahuate, Sweetolivebb and Sfowlkes, Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel and others.