Nazca
Table of Contents: Culture and History / Travel to Nazca, visa requirements / Get around / Nazca attractions and sightseeing / Nazca Lines / The Palpa Lines / The Cemetery of Chauchilla / The Aqueducts of Cantalloc / Chicchitara Carving Rocks in the Palpa Valley / City tours / Shopping, Nazca souvenirs / Good restaurants and cheap meals / Nazca nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs. / Hotels, youth hostels, lodging / Stay safe / UNeSiNa / Responsible traveller / Get out More from Southern Coast (Peru): Ica, Nazca More from Peru: Altiplano (Peru), Amazonas (Peru), Cajamarca, Central Coast (Peru), Cordillera Blanca, Madre de Dios (Peru), Northern Coast (Peru), San Martin, Southern Coast (Peru), Southern Sierra (Peru) More from South America: Amazonia, Andes, Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Falkland Islands, Guyana, Los Roques, Pantanal, Paraguay, Peru, Suriname, Tierra del Fuego, Uruguay, Venezuela |
Nazca is a friendly town on Peru's Southern Coast. It is most famous for the so-called Nazca Lines, a mix of long lines, geometrical figures, and giant drawings in the desert sand.
Culture and History
The Nazca Culture was discovered in the 1890's, when a German archaeologist named Max Uhle received an array of ceramics while working at the Anthropologisch-Ethnografische Museum in Dresden. Among the ceramics he received, there were many that came from South America, but among the vessels, some beautiful and colourful examples that drew his attention. The Nazca ceramics he had analyzed were so beautiful that he decided to travel to Peru in search of the exact place of origin of these ceramics. It was in 1901 that Max Uhle came to Peru, and after months of searching he arrived at the Valley of Ica at a place called Ocucaje, where he met some old farmers who knew about the ancient cemeteries where these colourful ceramics were frequently found. Uhle then made a series of excavations and discovered the Nazca ceramics at many archaeological sites, started to classify them and also made them known around the world.
The Ancient Nazca People
The Nazca culture had as its main capital the Ceremonial City of Cahuachi, an ancient pilgrimage center that is located some 28 kms southwest of the modern city of Nazca. According to archaeologists, the Nazca culture thrived between 500 BC and around 600 AD, and their cultural influence stretched from Cañete in the north to Acari in the south, covering am area of almost 600 kms, with the Ceremonial Center of Cahuachi as its capital. It is believed that the Nazca people chose the lower section of the Nazca Valley to build Cahuachi due to the abundance of water coming from underground, a sort of natural springs that allowed them to irrigate their fields and produce essential crops for life.
The Nazca culture is credited with making the famous Nazca Lines, as the evidence abounds. Most of the animal figures and other designs that were etched onto the desert surface are repeatedly seen also on the pottery and textile iconography left behind under their necropolis and found around the desert and at the archaeological site of Cahuachi. Archaeologist also have discovered hundreds of pottery fragments that suggest the Nazca people gathered in the desert to carry out religious ceremonies and it is very likely that after a ceremony they smashed the pots as an offering to the gods, which they believed where above in the sky. The fragments found on the figures were mainly pieces of panpipes and whistles, which suggests that music, along with dances were involve in their religious ceremonies.
In the Nazca desert, the presence of over 300 hundreds figures and over 10,000 lines has been recorded, covering a huge area of 525 kms, according to archaeologists and scholars. Italian archaeologist Giuseppe Orefeci believes the Nazca people lived for over 800 years at the ceremonial centre of Cahuachi (500 BC – 350 AD), and it began to decline due to certain natural disasters that took place around 350 AD. Dr. Giuseppe Orefeci says that during this time there were changes in the climate and El Niño caused a great flood that engulfed a big portion of the Nazca valley, including the ceremonial centre of the Nazca people Cahuachi. Orefeci says that after this natural disaster it is very likely that the Nazca people began to reconstruct their city, refusing to abandon it due to its great religious importance, but some years later the Nazca region was severely damaged by a huge earthquake that split their city in two. The evidence was found at various excavations that Giuseppe Orefeci had been carrying out during the last 20 years at the site. Many human bodies were found under the fallen walls, which proof that many people were killed and the city was utterly turned into ruins. It was around 400 AD that the Nazca people abandoned Cahuachi and moved out to the upper section of the valley, where the modern Nazca city lies today. It was at this time that the great under ground channels of the Nazca culture were built.
Nazca Channels or Puquios
In addition to the Nazca geoglyphs, as they are archaeologically called, it is also important to mention their great achievements in hydraulic engineering. The famous underground channels of Nazca, locally known as Puquios (a Quechua word to describe a natural spring), are one of the greatest legacy also left behind by the Nazca Culture, this unique underground system is unique in South America and perhaps in the whole world, as their construction are very intricate. The Nazca culture built over 50 underground channels in the Nazca region between the years 400 AD till around 500 AD, and many of them are still in use by the local communities in the Nazca Valley. Without doubt, one of the best preserve channels are those located at the zone of Cantalloc or CANTAYO, as it is also called. On this area visitors can see a series of blow holes shaped in a spiral form, which probably served to clean their inner part periodically, and also to restore them in case of tremors or earthquakes.
Nazca Ceramic
Long before the Nazca Lines were discovered, the Nazca Culture was already known by many, thanks to the colourful ceramics that were found at the many cemeteries located along the banks of the Nazca River. The peculiarity of these vessels is that they show in a very realistic way the ancient world of the Nazca men, showing mainly their everyday life, animals, plants, birds, and gods, stylized creatures, including zoomorphic and anthropomorphic designs that sometimes reach more than ten colours in just one vessel. The best examples of these Nazca ceramics can be seen today in museums in Lima, such as the Anthropological and Archaeological Museum in Lima, The Regional Museum of Ica, and many others in Peru and around the world.
Nazca Textiles
The Nazca people believed strongly in a life after death, this belief drew them to mummified their corpses and wrap them with finest textiles, which after 2000 years still today show, quality and colours, as if they were woven yesterday. In the Nazca times, like in many other pre-Inca civilizations the textiles seemed to have play an important role, in the case of Nazca, their textiles were made with fine art and also great skill, using cotton and fibre of Andean camels. The Nazca culture considered their textiles to be an important element within the society, and on especial burials, the corpse had to be wrapping with these beautiful pieces of art with the aim of accompany the dead in the after life. The Nazca textiles were created with a high technological and intellectual point of view and were very sophisticated. At the archaeological site of Cahcuachi, Italian archaeologist Giuseppe Orefeci has uncovered many textiles in very good conditions, which are currently display at the Antonini Museum in Nazca.
Discovery of the Nazca Lines
The Nazca Lines were first spotted when one of the first Peruvian airlines called Faucette, started to fly from Lima to Arequipa in the 1920's. Pilots who flew over this area had noticed that between the valleys of Palpa and Nazca there were many lines crisscrossing the desert in all directions, this great news were shown at the local papers in Lima, and soon arose the interest of some people. In 1926, came to Nazca the archaeologists Toribio Mejia Xesspe, drawn by the reports of strange lines at the desert. He made some researches at the Nazca zone, getting simply to the conclusion that the Lines were part of ancient sacred roads. Xesspe never flew over the area, so he never got to see the figures on the desert, but only some straight lines. It was not until 1939 that came to Peru the American professor Paul Kosock, from Long Island University, who discovered the Nazca Lines properly. Paul Kosock was drawn by reports of ancient irrigation systems located in the Nazca Valley (the Puquios or aqueducts), in Nazca he made some surveys of the Nazca channels recording at that time over 50 underground aqueducts still in used by the local communities. One day he was told that at the Nazca desert, there were also other ancient channels, even older of those he had already seen. Thus, he went to the Nazca desert, and found only long shallows furrows. He thought that perhaps these ancient channels were located very far away, so he hired one of the small airplanes the farmers used on those days to fumigate their fields in the Nazca valley. Once he took off and started to fly over the desert, he was amazed by hundreds of lines and geometrical forms lying down below. In one of his comments he said that he ordered the pilot to follow one particular line to see where it finished, but the surprise was even bigger when he suddenly found himself flying over a huge design of a bird. It was this way the Nazca Lines were discovered, some years later Paul Kosock would meet Maria Reiche who followed Kosock's investigations.
Travel to Nazca, visa requirements
There are frequent collectivos to and from Ica. They leave when full, it takes 2 to 3 hours and cost 12 soles.
There are several direct overnight buses from Cuzco. They leave in the evening and it takes 14 hours, but delays can occur in the wet season. Prices vary between 60 and 170 soles.
Nazca is a small city that does not have a proper bus station. Most of the bus companies are situated on the northwest part of the city.
Get around
Getting around in Nazca is easy. You can walk almost anywhere and a taxi inside of town really costs 1.5 SOLES although every taxi driver might try to charge you more. The BIG HASSLE in Nazca however, are the touts that hang out at the bus stations and on the streets. They represent shady or nonexistent hotels and travel agents. Having an office in Nazca does NOT mean one has a business of good reputation!
Don't do business with these touts, because you run a VERY HIGH risk of being robbed or ripped off. Upon arrival, go to the hotel you were planning to and don't let yourself be sidetracked to another place. But if you hear people on the street or at the bus stop offer the hotel you are planning to go to, better change your mind fast and choose another hotel YOURSELF.
The shady hotels and travel agents at the bus stop try to lure you with very cheap prices but once you get there, the cheap room is something you wouldn't keep your pet pig in and the other rooms are much more expensive. These hotels count on the fact that people are too tired to pick up their stuff again and go somewhere else, but rather be overcharged.
Often heard lies at the bus stop:
- "That's a very good hotel, but it is full because there is a convention in town. I know because it's of our family. But don't worry, we have another hotel of our family and we can give you a room there!"
- "The hotel changed owners and is now very, very bad."
- "They've upgraded and the price has doubled/tripled/$850 a night/whatever"
- "The owner is a Polish women (one wonders what the Polish ever did wrong in Nazca!) who is very unfriendly and she'll attack you! (sometimes another eastern Europe nationality is used...)
- "My father has a hotel and my brother is a pilot and I have a travel agency" To many people from the family to make you feel safe. NEVER TRUE!
- These touts always work together, so one will call upon the other to have him/her agree to whatever he just told you.
Sometimes a tout enters a hotel with tourists, telling them he owns the place and shows them a room and everything. This is not true, but the lesser hotels have to allow this in order to get some clients. That is where the ripping off takes place: the tourists pay the tout their $50 (or more) each for the flight, thinking they are buying at the hotel. The next day the guy doesn't show up. The hotel will claim they don't know the guy and that he lied to them and make faces but won't intervene. Whether the tourists go to the police or not does NOT make ANY difference. After the tourists have gone off to their next destination, the tout goes to the hotel and splits the loot with the real owners.
Most of these touts have no official license to operate, don't pay taxes, have cars that are not insured and even drive them without a valid driving license. They all have very 'official looking' badges. Keep in mind that in Lima there exists a small industry to make these kind of badges. For a few soles anyone can buy a badge with their picture on it, stating that he or she is .....(whatever: use your imagination and fill in the blank yourself!) If ever you want to be the manager of a big bank or an airline captain or an NASA astronaut this is where you get your ID. Don't be impressed by these badges. They are worthless.
Also the cheap flights are a constant rip-off. On whatever question you ask, they will tell you what you want to hear, but once the product is being delivered, the problems start. You will be rushed to the airport far earlier than they told you: "your reservation has changed." Keep in mind that very few airlines in Nazca work with a reservation list at all, much less with a time table. This is a ruse to get you of balance. Before you know they make you pay $5 for your taxi and $5 more for your airport tax (which is really only just over $3!) Chances are that you get a flight that is far too short (less then 20 minutes!) or a centre seat in a row of 3 seats, which means you won't get to see anything. You will be rushed in the hope that you won't notice that you will fly with some obscure airline and not with the trustworthy airline they promised you. If you do business in this environment, better take a parachute along!
The newest trick is to lure you to the airport with a flight of 30$. Airport tax not included. Then you get a seat their for as long as you are willing to stay patient. As soon as all your patience is spent, they tell you that you have a special short flight to see only 4 figures, but they need 1(2,3,...) more passengers for that short flight and as yet there are none. You inquire about the short flight and a map is produced and everyone around you comes and testify that yes it is a short flight for 30 bucks, and no there are no other passengers to be found. You of course, are now supposed to say that you bargained for a normal flight and then they tell you that it is "no problem" if only you pay 20$ or even 30$ more. A refund? no, they will be very sorry but that will not be possible and if you start loosing your calm here, a policeman may be produced to intimidate you further. The short story is that there are no short flights of 30$ and this is all a premeditated game to have you pay much more then you need to see the lines. Be careful whom you believe!
Nazca attractions and sightseeing
There are various travel agents in town. As warned above: "having an office in NAZCA does not make one a trustworthy travel agent!" You are hereby warned.
Be very careful where you buy in Nazca, and NEVER EVER from people that address you on the street or await you at the bus stop!!!
- Museo Arqueologico Antonini, Av de la Cultura 606 (follow Jr Bolognese about 1km east). Informative museum about the surrounding archeological sites. It also has a collection of pottery and textiles. In the garden there is a working aqueduct and a scale model of the lines. Entrance U$ 6.00
Nazca Lines
The Nazca Lines are the star attraction. They were created by removing surface stones, revealing the lighter-colored soil below. They're unquestionably ancient (dating back 1400-2200 years), and remarkably precise (with straight lines and clean curves). The only way to view most of them is from the air, a fact which has led to speculation that the ancient Nazca people who created them either had air travel (e.g. hot air balloons), or - even less probable - were directed by an alien civilization. The prevailing scientific viewpoint is that they were created using low-tech surveying techniques, but for purposes unknown. A couple dozen tour agents offer round flights in Cessnas, just like most hotels. Shop around before buying. The price is US$30-50 depending on season and your bargaining skills. 10 Soles airport tax is usually not included in the price. There are also flights which include the nearby Palpa lines.
There is a observation tower along the Panamerican highway with a view of three of the figures and a lookout on a mountain. You can go there by tour, public transportation, or hitchhike your way out there.
In the Nazca region, scattered over 500 square kilometres of an arid plateau between the Nazca River and Ingenio River, exist huge representations of geometric patterns, animals, humans figures and thousands of perfectly straight lines that go on for kilometres. The images on the ground are so huge, that the only way to fully observe them is only from the sky. Its real purpose is unknown, nobody actually knows who made them or why?
Flying over the Nazca desert you can marvel looking at the perfect shape of a monkey, a spider, a while, a lizard and various types of birds, including humming birds, sea birds, and the mighty Andean Condor. These strange figures are more than 2000 years old, and they are known as The Nazca Lines.
The Palpa Lines
According to recent archaeological studies the first drawings were made in the Valleys of Palpa and Rio Grande. It is said that 3000 years ago our ancestors used the flat surface of the mountains and the slopes of the hills to draw huge geometric figures and human representations. Archaeologist today believe that the figures were made to pleased ancient gods, who apparently were believed to control the forces of nature, such as; earthquakes, drought and floods.
Nowadays visitors may observe all these wonders of the past, flying over the zone on our small aircrafts, specially designed with large panoramic windows and good comfort to take great pictures.
The Cemetery of Chauchilla
For many years the Chauchilla Cemetery was looted by treasure hunters, who destroyed the place completely, taking away all the treasures the mummies kept in their tombs for centuries. Grave robbers just left behind the corpses, which can be seen today all over the ground. In addition to skulls and bones, visitors also can see several tombs centuries old, as well as long human hairs, ceramic fragments and others remains scattered on the desert surface.
It is the only archeological site in Peru, in which ancient mummies are seen in their original graves, along with ancient artifacts, dating back to 1000 AD. This archaeological excursion is combined with the visit to a Nasca Ceramic workshop, where visitors will learn about the old technique of making Nasca pots and also a visit to the gold extraction center to see an old way of extracting gold using huge mortars.
The Aqueducts of Cantalloc
2000 years ago, in pre-Inka times, the inhabitants of Nazca developed a system of underground aqueducts to irrigate dry lands that lacked of surface water. Thus, they were able to combat the ever-growing desert. The system is unique in Peru and perhaps in the whole world.
In spite of the harshness of the desert, in the Nazca region still exist over 30 underground channels, which are used by local farmers, who grow mainly cotton, corn, beans and potatoes, as well as a variety of fruits. In addition to the channels, nearby visitors may also see various lines etched on the desert floor representing geometric forms, as well as the Inca ruins of Paredones.
Chicchitara Carving Rocks in the Palpa Valley
5000 years ago the Palpa Valley was inhabited by early cultures, which used the flat surface of volcanic rocks to shape their everyday life, as well as their animals, birds, ancient priests and a number of geometrical designs. It has been registered over 300 petroglyphs. The Petroglyphs of Chichictara are perhaps one of the earliest expressions of writing of the Peruvian ancient past. Among the figures visitors may see dozens of wonderful representations such as: Condors, Andean felines, snakes, Llamas, Andean deers and many others. This archaeological zone is located just one hour away from the city of Nazca, passing the famous Nazca Lines desert, where it is possible to stop to have a great view of two the famous Nazca figures from the metallic tower, known as El Mirador and also stop at the Maria Reiche Museum.
City tours
Shopping, Nazca souvenirs
Good restaurants and cheap meals
- For fast and cheap street food try one of the stands at the south-east corner of the Plaza de Armas.
- Pacante's fastfood café, Jr Bolognese 464. Simple and cheap burgers, with a friendly owner who likes to talk to gringos.
Nazca nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs.
There are several bars along Jr. Bolognese.
Hotels, youth hostels, lodging
- Hotel Alegria.
- Hostal Camiluz. A quite and safe place to stay in Nazca, located just 3 blocks away from downtown.
- Hostel Don Agucho. On the right side of the Nazca River, 3 blocks from the main square, in a very quite zone away from the commercial centre and traffic. Has an exclusive swimming pool surrounded by a charming garden with comfortable hammocks and furniture to chill out on, free tea and coffee, English spoken and lots of information about Nazca.
- The WalkOn Inn, José María Mejía 108 - Nazca, ☎ +51 (0)56 522566 (nazca@walkoninn.com), [1]. Has a swimming pool, free internet and free WiFi, rooftop terrace and a very good service in several languages (en-fr-de-nl-es), possibility of laundry service and burning CD's or DVD's of your pictures. In the second street behind the church yet in a quiet neighbourhood. Really good hostel, good breakfast, very good attention from the personnel, they were really helpful and willing to help and gave me a lot of advices. It became my benchmark for the rest of the hostels I stayed while in Peru; not even the hostels in Cuzco were better. The roof top terrace has great view of the surroundings and town. Good place to start an adventure in Peru. $8 maximum per person.
Stay safe
UNeSiNa
There is a website of the "Union de Negociantes sinceros de Nazca" [2] (meaning the union of honest businesses in Nazca) that tells you where you should and shouldn't do business. They base their content on interviews with tourists while they are waiting to travel out of Nazca to their next destination.
Responsible traveller
Remember that if you work with people who don't have a legitimate business you also work with people who don't pay taxes and thus steal from the society they are living in. This is why they can be cheaper then honest businesses that act correctly. As a responsible traveller, it is your duty to pay taxes where due. As a responsible traveller of course you choose to pay your taxes where due in the country you visit. You only work with people who will give you a legal invoice (in Peru that is either a "boleto" or a "factura") with the name of the business and their VAT number printed on it, together with consecutive numbering on the face.
Get out
- Vicuña Reserva of Pampas Galeras. The Vicuña National Park is located about 90 km away from Nasca (598 m.a.s.l), following a steep/winding road that leads high into the Andes to an elevation of 4200 m.a.s.l. This area is home of two American camels, the Vicuñas and Guanacos, which can be seen running freely through the Andean plateau. Unlike their cousins the Llamas and Alpacas, the Vicuñas and Guanacos are wild animals, they have not been domesticated and have adapted to high altitudes where drought and freezing nights are the natural rules. The Vicuña Reserve of Pampas Galeras houses roughly 70% of vicuñas in the world, therefore a tour to Pampas Geleras guarantee any visitor a good experience with these wonderful Andean camels. In addition to these animals, one also can see the famous Andean rodent known by the locals as Viscacha, as well as eagles, ducks and Condors.
- Marine Reserve of San Fernando. The beautiful bay of San Fernando is located about 70 kms away of Nasca, at the shore of the Pacific Ocean. This wonderful reserve shelters a great variety of sea birds and animals. Among the animals stand out the Humboldt penguins and sea lions. As to the birds, it is very common to see Condors, Boobies, Cormorants, Pelicans, Inca Terns and many others species . In addition to wildlife, visitors may also enjoy the unique natural beauty that stretches from beach to beach for many kilometers, offering different views of the bay as well as a peaceful atmosphere.
More from Southern Coast (Peru): Ica, Nazca More from Peru: Altiplano (Peru), Amazonas (Peru), Cajamarca, Central Coast (Peru), Cordillera Blanca, Madre de Dios (Peru), Northern Coast (Peru), San Martin, Southern Coast (Peru), Southern Sierra (Peru) More from South America: Amazonia, Andes, Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Falkland Islands, Guyana, Los Roques, Pantanal, Paraguay, Peru, Suriname, Tierra del Fuego, Uruguay, Venezuela |
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