Myanmar

Myanmar (also known as Burma) is a country in Southeast Asia. It lies on the Bay of Bengal and Andaman Sea coast with Bangladesh and India to the west, China to the north, and Laos and Thailand to the east.

Regions

States (pyi-ne):

• Chin State
• Kachin State
• Kayah State (Karenni State)
• Kayin State (Karen State)
• Mon State
• Rakhine State (Arakan State)
• Shan State

Divisions (taing):

• Ayeyarwady Division (Irrawaddy)
• Bago Division (Pegu)
• Magwe Division
• Mandalay Division
• Sagaing Division
• Tanintharyi Division (Tenassarim)
• Yangon Division (Rangoon)

Cities

• Naypyidaw (formerly Pyinmana) - newly designated (Nov.2005) administrative capital, in Mandalay Division

• Yangon (formerly Rangoon) - the Commercial capital, known for its pagodas and colonial architecture

• Bago (formerly Pegu)

• Mandalay - former capital of the Konbaung Dynasty built around the Mandalay Royal Palace

Other destinations

• Bagan - an archaeological zone with thousands of pagodas near the banks of the Ayeyarwady River

• Inle Lake - a large shallow lake good for beautiful boat trips, visiting floating villages inhabited by the Intha people, hiking, and also a source of excellent silk

• Kengtung - a town between Mong La (on the border with China) and Tachileik (on the border with Thailand) in the Golden Triangle, known for its tribes, Ann (black teeth people), Akha, trekking, etc

• Kyaiktiyo - a gold-gilded rock sitting atop a cliff and a major pilgrimage site

• Mount Popa - an extinct volcano regarded as the Mount Olympus of Myanmar, a green oasis high above the hot plains and an easy day trip from Bagan

• Mrauk U - former capital of the Rakhine kingdom

• Ngapali - beach resort in western Rakhine State, spilling into the Bay of Bengal

• Pyay - a town on the Ayeyarwady River midway between Yangon and Bagan, known for its archological site "Sri Kittara", the ancient Pyu capital from 2 to 9 AD

Understand

To go or not to go? Aung San Suu Kyi, the leader of Myanmar's opposition National League for Democracy, has in the past called for tourists not to visit the country, as this helps prop up the military junta and some infrastructure has been constructed using forced and child labour. On the other hand, pro-democracy advocates such as Ma Thanegi, and the vast majority of people in Myanmar, encourage tourism as a way of getting funds into local hands - despite the fact that the government will also derive some financial benefit. In addition, many feel that the presence of foreign tourists deters the government from the worst of its excesses. In the end, the choice is yours. If you want to visit and avoid supporting the junta, avoid five star hotels, eat at local restaurants, and generally attempt to ensure that your money is going to locals, rather than large, partially government-owned enterprises. Remember that foreign corporations only can operate in-country as joint partners with the junta.

History

Like most of Southeast Asia's countries, Myanmar's people and history is a glorious mishmash of settlers and invaders from all fronts. The Mon and the Pyu are thought to have come from India, while the now dominant Bamar (Burmese) migrated through Tibet and, by 849, had founded a powerful kingdom centered on Pagan. For the next millennium, the Burmese empire grew through conquests of Thailand (Ayutthaya) and India (Manipur), and shrank under attacks from China and internal rebellions.

Eventually, Britain conquered Myanmar over a period of 62 years (1824-1886) and incorporated it into its Indian Empire. Burma was administered as a province of India until 1937 when it became a separate, self-governing colony. During the Second World War, Burma was a major battleground as the Allies fought the Japanese for dominance over Asia. The Burma Road was built to get supplies to China. Large parts of Western Burma, particularly the hilly areas bordering India and the city of Mandalay were severely damaged during the war. Independence from the Commonwealth under the name Union of Burma was attained in 1948.

General Ne Win dominated the government from 1962 to 1988, first as military ruler, then as self-appointed president, and later as political kingpin. Pro-democracy demonstrations in 1988 were violently crushed, with general Saw Maung taking over in a coup and installing the State Law and Order Restoration Council (SLORC) to rule the country, now renamed Myanmar.

Multiparty legislative elections were held in 1990, with the main opposition party - the National League for Democracy (NLD) - winning a landslide victory (392 of 489 seats). But SLORC refused to hand over power, instead placing NLD leader and Nobel Peace Prize recipient Aung San Suu Kyi under house arrest, where she remains to this day.

Today Myanmar, a resource-rich country, suffers from pervasive government controls, inefficient economic policies, and rural poverty. The junta took steps in the early 1990s to liberalize the economy after decades of failure under the "Burmese Way to Socialism," but those efforts stalled, and some of the liberalization measures were rescinded. Most overseas development assistance ceased after the junta began to suppress the democracy movement in 1988 and subsequently refused to honor the results of the 1990 legislative elections. In response to the government of Burma's attack in May 2003 on Aung San Suu Kyi and her convoy, the US imposed new economic sanctions against Myanmar - including a ban on imports of Burmese products and a ban on provision of financial services by US persons.

Climate

Cloudy, rainy, hot, humid summers (southwest monsoon, June to September). Less cloudy, scant rainfall, mild temperatures, lower humidity during winter (northeast monsoon, December to April).

Get in

Visa-free entry is possible at some border crossings - however you must then exit Myanmar via the same border crossing, usually (but not always) on the same day that you enter, and fees apply (typically USD5-10, depending on the crossing).

Otherwise, visas must be obtained in advance by all visitors except ASEAN, People's Republic of China and Russian nationals.

An eVisa service was introduced in 2004, but the website has been unavailable since early 2005.

By plane

The most popular place to get a flight to Myanmar is Bangkok, in neighbouring Thailand.

AirAsia has one daily flight from Bangkok to Yangon (from 2150 baht) and one daily return flight (from 1450 baht).

Bangkok Airways has one daily flight from Bangkok to Yangon and one daily return flight, costing from 3500 baht.

Thai Airways International flies Bangkok to Yangon and back 2-3 times daily from 3500 baht one-way (tickets best bought from a Bangkok travel agency).

Myanmar Airways International operates an all-Boeing fleet linking Yangon with Bangkok, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore.

Air Mandalay flies direct both ways between Chiang Mai (in northern Thailand) and Yangon, and Chiang Mai to Mandalay (but no direct flights in the opposite direction) for about USD80.

Air Bagan flies the Yangon-Bangkok and Yangon-Singapore route. Flights between Yangon and Kunming (via Mandalay) and Yangon and Siem Reap are scheduled to commence soon (August 2007 and October 2007).

Qatar Airways flies from Doha to Yangon (RT), but not Yangon to Doha one-way or RT, with convenient flights onward to most European cities.

Indian Airlines links Yangon with Kolkata, while Mandarin Airlines links Yangon with Taipei. Silk Air links Yangon with Singapore daily. Qatar Airways (QR) flies between Doha and Yangon (3 times a week) and connects to Europe (London, Madrid, Milan, etc.)

By land

Thailand:

As of April 2007 exiting Myanmar by land is impossible. Myanmar Travels and Tours should not be consulted for this- they have misinformed many people in the past. Exit is possible only by plane excpet with special government permission.

• Tachileik / Mae Sai - foreigners can access this crossing from either side, and enter and/or exit either country here; no onward travel restrictions (other than those that apply to everyone, no matter how they enter); to get to Tachileik or Kengtung from the rest of Myanmar. As of March 2007 entering the rest of Myanmar- even with a previously bought tourist visa- is impossible through any land crossing.

• Myawaddy / Mae Sot - foreigners can only access this crossing from the Thai side; neither onward travel into Myanmar (ie beyond the border town) nor overnight stays are possible. No visa needed; instead there's an entry stamp fee - USD10 if paid with USD notes, more (500 baht) if paid with Thai currency.

• Three Pagodas Pass (Payathonzu / Sangkhlaburi) - foreigners can only access this crossing from the Thai side; onward travel into Myanmar (ie beyond the border town) is not possible; entry/exit stamps are NOT issued here, and foreigners passports are held at the Myanmar checkpoint, where a fee is levied - USD10 if paid with USD notes, more (500 baht) if paid with Thai currency.

• Kawthoung / Ranong - foreigners can access this crossing from either side, and enter and/or exit either country here; no onward travel restrictions (other than those that apply to everyone, no matter how they enter); access to/from Kawthoung is by sea (Mergui/Dawei & Yangon) and air (Mergui & Yangon). If entering without a visa, maximum stay is 3 days / 2 nights, travel beyond Kawthoung is not permitted, and there's an entry stamp fee - USD10 if paid with USD notes, more (500 baht) if paid with Thai currency. As of March 2007 only flights connect the furthest Southern tip of Myanmar with the rest of the country.

China: Foreigners can enter Myanmar via Ruili (in Yunnan), although a permit (as well as a visa) and a guide are needed. Crossing in the opposite direction is more difficult to arrange and details are uncertain.

India: A land border crossing exists between India and Myanmar at Moreh/Tamu. It is uncertain whether foreigners can cross into or out of Myanmar at this crossing. At the least, a foreign (a person who is neither a citizen of India nor a citizen of Myanmar) will need to get a permit to visit the Indian state of Manipur (from India), and a permit to enter or leave Myanmar at Tamu (from Myanmar Travels and Tours. Travelers may also need a permit to travel from Tamu to Kalewa (there are unconfirmed reports that this is no longer required). While there have been confirmed reports of some travelers crossing into Myanmar from India, with their own transport as well as with permits arranged in advance, the general consensus is that obtaining all the necessary permits is very hard.

Bangladesh / Laos: it is not currently feasible to independently cross the borders between Myanmar and any of these three neighbouring countries.

Get around

Myanmar's infrastructure is in poor shape. As a result of the political situation, Myanmar is subject to trade sanctions from much of the western world, and this can cause problems for unwary travellers. Travel to certain regions is prohibited; for others, special permits must be obtained, and a guide/interpreter/minder may be mandatory - although whether these "guides" accompany you to look after you, or to keep you from going to places the government doesn't want you to see, is moot. If you are keen to see Myanmar with a guide,finding a good guide is rather difficult since most of the guides offered by local travel agencies are not always efficient. Find recommendations from your friends or fellow-travelers or forums.Most travelers use travel agencies to book hotels,trains,flights.Local tour operators sell inexpensive package-tours.Some of the reliaable tour operators with long experience are ;

1.Diethelms Travels DUSIT INYA LAKE RESORT, 37 KABA AYE PAGODA ROAD, MAYANGONE TOWNSHIP, YANGON, UNION OF MYANMAR. TEL: (95 1) 652 898, 652 906 FAX: (95 1) 653 182, 652 907 E-mail : leisure@diethelm.com.mm http://www.diethelmtravel.com

2.Indochina Travel Services No. 8(A), West Maykha Lane (2), Mayangone Township, Yangon, The Union of Myanmar Tel: (+95) 1 661 724; 662 114; 650 982 Fax: (+95) 1 651 002 Internet : http://www.indochina-services.com E-mail: info@is-myanmar.com

3.Asian Trails Tour Ltd. 471 Pyay Road Kamayut Township Yangon Tel. (95 1) 510657, 512229, 705982, 705324 Fax. (95 1) 524978 Email. res@asiantrails.com.mm

4.Columbus Travel and Tour Ltd. 586 Strand Road (Corner of Strand Road & 7th Street) Yangon, Myanmar. Tel : (951) 221881, 229243, 229245, 229927 Fax : (951) 229246, 222790, 524256 E-mail : columbus@mptmail.net.mm, tours@columbus.com.mm

5.Tour Mandalay Co.,Ltd. No. 02/03, 2nd Floor, Pearl Condominium A, Pearl Centre, Kaba Aye Pagoda Road, Bahan Township, Yangon 11201, Union of Myanmar. Tel : (95-1) 540475, 541428, 543801 & 545516 Fax : (95-1) 541098, 548014 E-mail : info@tourmandalay.com.mm,

Internet : http://www.tourmandalay.com

Some of the reliable personal tour guides with well-deserved reputations are 1.Htin Gyi (Spanish-speaking) 2.Chaw Chaw Kyemon (French-speaking) 3.Tin Than Yu (German-speaking) 4.Ba Thein (German-speaking) 5.Than Htun Aung (Italian-speaking) 6.Kyaw Zay Latt (English-speaking) 7.Aung Win (French-speaking). These guides are available upon request when you buy a package-tour from any local tour operator.

Flights to Myanmar, airtickets

State-run Myanma Airways (UB) - not to be confused with Myanmar Airways International (8M) "MIA" - is known for its poor safety record. Mandalay Air[1], Bagan Air[2] and Yangon Airways[3] offer good, regular services between the key tourist centers for reasonable prices - USD40-80. These tickets are easy to buy in hotels and travel agencies in all major cities in Myanmar.

By rail

Myanmar has an extensive rail network, but trains are slow and often delayed, making buses both cheaper and faster. Four to five hours behind schedule on the Yangon-Mandalay run for an express train is pretty standard. Still, a journey on a train is a great way to see the country and meet people. The rail journey from Mandalay, up switchbacks and hairpin bends to Pwin U Lwin, and then across the mountains and the famous bridge at Gokteik, is one of the great railway journeys of the world. Trains in lower Mandalay (Yangon - Pathein and Yangon Mawlymaing) are little communities of their own with hawkers selling everything imaginable. Sleepers are available on many overnight express trains, although, in the high season, you may want to reserve a few days in advance. (NOTE: The Yangon-Mandalay trains now run in the daytime only, apparently because the government does not want trains passing Pyinmana at night.). Food service is available on the express up and the express down between Yangon and Mandalay as well as on the Yangon - Mawlymaing run.

By boat

There is also a large river ferry network. Both are to a large extent run by the government, although there are now some private ferry services. The trip from Mandalay to Bagan takes the better part of a day, from Bagan to Yangon is several days.

Buses to Myanmar

You can also use buses to places you are allowed to visit, and pick-up trucks for shorter distances. Both are mostly payable in kyat and expect to pay some extra for being a tourist. Remember, travel in Myanmar is slow and rough. Expect to pay toll fees, which often add up.

By car

You can hire a private car and driver at reasonable rates to tour independently. The licensed guides at Schwedagon Paya in Yangon can arrange to have a driver with a car meet you at your hotel.But,it is safe to arrange a car through a travel agency;the service fee thay charge is not too small though. You can "test" the driver and the car by driving around the city for 10 or 15 minutes. If you are satisfied, a departure date and time and per diem rates (inclusive of petrol) can be negotiated. Some guides are willing to travel with you to serve as interpreters.

Road travel to tourist destinations is generally safe, although some roads may be rough. Highways are often 2-lane, and cars often pass one another recklessly. Allow two days to drive from Yangon to Bagan in fair weather. Pyay provides a good midway stopover point. Allow a day to drive from Bagan to Inle Lake.

In cities, it is also considered illegal to cross an amber light without stopping. Despite having crossed 3/4 of the way, you will be required to stop in the middle of the road and make your way back in reverse!

Accidents and fatalities are common. Night-time road travel is not recommended, and medical facilities are extraordinarily limited in rural areas. At government hospitals, bribes may be required for expedient services. Make sure needles are new or carry your own. HIV is a major problem in Myamnar.

By bike

In Yangon, riding motorcycles and bicycles is illegal. Mandalay's streets, on the other hand, are filled with both.

On foot

Cars and pedestrians do not follow the established rules, and crossing the road is difficult. It is best to follow the locals when crossing the road.

Talk

The official language of Myanmar is Burmese (known by the government as Myanmar). A majority of Burmese pronunciation is derived from the ancient language of Pali (at the time of the Buddha), but the language is a Sino-Tibetan language related to Chinese and hence tonal (word pitch matters) and analytic (most words are one syllable long).

Myanmar is a former British colony, and as a result - and because English is still being taught in primary schools - some Burmese understand at least some rudimentary English.

Burmese use the Burmese script, based on the ancient Pali script. Bilingual signs (English and Burmese) are available in most tourist spots. Numbers often are also written in Burmese script.

Buy

Unfunny money In a misguided attempt to fight rampant black marketeering, the Myanmar government has an unfortunate habit of declaring notes to be worthless: this happened for the first time on May 15, 1964, when the 50 and 100 kyat notes were demonetized. On November 3, 1985, the 20, 50 and 100 kyat notes were demonetized again and replaced with new kyat notes in the unusual denominations of 25, 35 and 75, possibly chosen because of dictator Ne Win's predilection for numerology; the 75-kyat note was introduced on his 75th birthday. Only two years later, on September 5, 1987, the government once again demonetized the 25, 35 and 75 kyat notes with no prior warning, rendering some 75% of the country's currency worthless. A new series of 15, 45 and 90-kyat notes was issued, incorporating Ne Win's favorite number 9. The resulting economic disturbances led to serious riots and eventually the 1989 coup by General Saw Maung. The post-coup notes come in more normal denominations from 1 to 1000 kyat, and this time the old ones remain legal tender... so far.

Myanmar's currency is the kyat (abbreviated K), pronounced "zhet". Pya are coins, and are rarely seen. Technically only kyat and FECs are legal tender, but US dollars (USD) and euros very widely accepted and often preferred, but in many cases, payments can only be made in USD notes.

Kyat cannot be exchanged abroad. Bring USD cash, and dispose of remaining kyat before leaving.

Foreign currencies

Visitors must plan carefully and bring enough cash with them to cover their entire visit, as there's no easy way to get more without leaving the country.

Never exchange money in a bank or at the airport as the rates are excrutiatingly uncompetitive: the official rate "floats" around a farcical 6 (yes, six) kyat to the US dollar [4]. In reality, the true (so-called "black market") exchange rate fluctuates considerably around both sides of the 1000 kyat to the USD mark (1350 kyat to the USD in July 2006 in Yangon, slightly less in Mandalay), and dissident newspaper The Irrawaddy [5] (not available in the country) publishes daily exchange rates. Exchanging money on the black market is illegal in theory, but common in practice and easy to do in markets, jewelry shops, travel agents, etc. Exercise due caution. Just bring USD50 or USD100 bills for exchanging purpose.

Western currencies are best exchanged in Yangon, however rates for everything other than USD (and to a lesser extent euro) are poor, hence it's best to convert to USD before entering Myanmar. Both USD and euro can easily be exchanged in most cities; sterling can be exchanged in Yangon and Mandalay, possibly in Bagan.

Foreign currency (including USD) must be in good condition. Torn bills are virtually impossible to change, and the same sometimes applies to notes which have been written on, otherwise marked, or even repeatedly folded. When getting currency from a bank to take to Myanmar, request new notes. Some USD100 bills with certain serial number prefixes (especially "CB") are sometimes regarded as suspect, so it may be better to take USD50 or smaller denominations.

Foreign Exchange Certificates (FECs)

Visitors to Myanmar were previously required to change USD200 into FECs upon arrival, but this was abolished in August 2003. FECs are still valid tender, but should be avoided at all costs as they are no longer worth their face value (although a one FEC note has good souvenir potential).

Credit cards & ATMs

Due to EU and US sanctions, credit cards are rarely accepted in Myanmar. There are places where cash can be obtained with a credit card, however the rates are extremely uncompetitive (with premiums certainly no lower than around 7%, and with quotes of 30% and more frequently reported). An exceptionally small minority of up-market hotels accept credit card payments (and will surcharge accordingly).

Some ATMs can be found in large cities, but these are purely for locals and cannot be used for withdrawing money.

Travellers cheques

Travellers cheques are not accepted in Myanmar. The only exception might be some especially shady money changer - but be prepared to pay an astronomical commission (30% is not uncommon).

Costs

It's quite possible to be comfortable on less than USD20/day. Foreigners will likely be charged fees, including video camera, digital camera, entrance, parking, and zone fees.

What to buy

A popular purchase in Myanmar is lacquerware, which is made into bowls, cups, vases and various items. Beware of fraudulent lacquerware, though, which is poorly made, but looks authentic. Buy from reputable dealers. There is also a wide variety of beautiful silverware and jewellery as well as textiles, including gorgeous silks and handcrafts such as wooden carvings, silk paintings and stonework.

Avoid giving money to beggars in Yangon and Mandalay (as painful as it might be to refuse them) but do buy handcrafts from street vendors and be generous at temples and monasteries. Definitely bargain! It's expected virtually everywhere, even in some of the nicest hotels.

Textiles in Myanmar are stunning. Each region and each ethnic group has its own style. Chin fabrics are particularly stunning. They are handwoven in intricate geometric patterns, often in deep reds and mossy greens and white. They can be quite pricy, perhaps USD20 for the cloth to make a longyi (sarong).

Some items may need customs permits.

Eat

Burmese food is a blend of Chinese, Indian and Mon influences. Rice is at the core of most Burmese food, and good vegetarian food is widely available. Burmese food is often extremely pungent. Food is inexepensive at most restaurants (ranging from K500 - K1500), but those looking for five-star cuisine should eat at hotel restaurants.

What to eat

Because the Burmese cuisine is a medley of many regional influences, it has many characteristics. Seafood is more common along the coastline, while preserved meats are more common in inland areas. Many Indian, Chinese, and Shan dishes are served throughout the country. Some dishes to try are:

• Mohinga (pronounced mo-HIN-ga) is a dish of thin noodles in a curried soup (orange in colour). Its taste can range from sweet to spicy, and is usually eaten during breakfast.

• Onnokauswe (pronounced oun-NO-kao-sui) is a dish of thicker noodles in a thick soup of coconut milk. Often added is chicken, and it has a strong taste and odour.

• Laphet thote (pronounced la-peh THOU) is a salad of fermented tea leaves and a variety of nuts. It is commonly mixed with sliced lettuce, and is eaten with rice. The dish originally comes from Shan State.

• Mee swan (pronounced mee-SUAN) is a Chinese dish of noodles in a broth, served with herbs and little meat.

• Palata (prounced pa-la-ta) is an Indian bread (prata), which is fried and served with sugar for breakfast, or with curried meats for lunch and dinner.

• Shan food The Shan are an ethnic group who inhabit Shan State around Inle lake, near the Thai border. Their food is marvelous and spicy. It can be found in Yangon if you search.

Where to eat

• Biryani restaurants (pronounced dan-PAO-sain) are available throughout Yangon (especially the cantonment). The three main competing restaurant chains are Yuzana, KSS (Kyet Shar Soon), and Nilar. All are halal.

• Oriental House is known for its Guangdong-style dim sum and Cantonese cuisine. It has franchises in Yangon and Mandalay, and is also available at the Yangon International Airport.

• Golden Duck (pronounced shui-BE) specialises in Chinese cuisine, and has franchises in Mandalay and Yangon.

• Shwe Pa Zun (pronounced shui-ba-ZUN; No.246/248, Corner of 9th and Anawrahta Street, Lanmadaw Township) is a well-established bakery/restaurant chain, with two expansive stores in Yangon. Its bakery sells excellent paluda (Indian faluta), ice cream and milk with an assortment of gelatin.

• Black Canyon Coffee Found in Mandalay (Next to Sedona Hotel) and in Yangon (next to International Hotel) offers Air-conditioned dining and wonderful Starbucks-style coffee for all those yearning for a quality caffeine shot in this country.

Drink

Tap water in Myanmar is not safe to drink, likewise ice may be contaminated. Bottled water is readily available at many tourist sites.

Tea is usually provided free at restaurant tables. While not flavourful, it is boiled water, and so safe to drink (do not drink plain water - even in restaurants - unless it is bottled water).

Alcohol is frowned upon by conservative Buddhists, Hindus, and Muslims, but consumed widely, mostly among men. Myanmar Beer (lager) is most popular in the country. Other variants, including Mandalay Beer exist. However, many of such companies are government-owned and/or have links to the drug trade. Toddy juice (ta-YEI) is popular in central Myanmar, and is made from fermented palm sugar. An alcoholic drink popular in the Shan State is Shwe le maw, and is reportedly very strong.

Beware of alcoholic drinks served in the far northern states. The locals refer to it as alcohol which does not burn when lit, and it is widely suspected to be an opiate concoction rather than a fermented beverage.

There are a lot of nightclubs, including those attached to the five star hotels (eg Grand Plaza), and also local entertainment centres (eg JJs, Asia plaza).

Sleep

Accommodation is readily available in many tourist locales throughout Myanmar. Hostels and cheap hotels are available throughout the country. World-class hotels are available in Yangon, Bagan, and Mandalay. World-class resorts are available in many resort cities along the coastline and in Inlay Lake.

Hotels often provide complimentary breakfast.

If you want to be a socially conscious traveler, avoid five star hotels. These are all joint ventures with the government, so you will be providing major monetary bonuses to the regime.

Work

Work in Myanmar for foreigners is hard to come by. NGOs and other aid groups do work in capitol and the remote areas of Myanmar, but because of the unstable political situation and the government's edicts, it is difficult to carry out tasks. In addition, several organisations have pulled out of Myanmar, after complaints of the government's continual probes. Foreign companies, mainly based in Singapore, Thailand, and China do operate, but on a small scale. Teaching English is feasible in the city's private schools, but is off-limits in the public education system.

Stay safe

Crime

Myanmar has a dangerous reputation, but it is generally very safe for the visitor, especially in the main tourist areas. You are likely to have your passport checked often, but that should be the extent of your hassles with the government. In the areas of the country you are permitted to go to, the chance of you being a victim of crime is remote. Do not be stupid enough to be involved with recreational drugs while you are there. Myanmar is a major producer.

Since 2005, there has been an increase in street violence (particularly robberies), in major cities such as Yangon and Mandalay. However, it is still a relatively safe city.

However, the area of concern has been in the increase in the number of bombings throughout the country. On 7 May 2005, there was a series of bombings that took place in Yangon, in which many were killed. On 26 April 2005, Zegyo Market in Mandalay was the site of a bomb explosion. On 21 October 2005, a similar explosion occurred in front of Traders Hotel in Yangon. On 5 December 2005, a bomb exploded inside a building in Yangon. On 2 January 2006 (Independence Day), two simultaneous explosions occurred near a school in Bago. The government has put blame on several insurgent organisations, including overseas pro-democracy organisations. However, there is speculation as to whether government-affiliated organisations have been the source of these bombings.

Always be alert and cautious. Yangon's security has been heightened, and in many hotels and office buildings, you may be searched.

That said, Burmese people are incredibly hospitable. After years of isolation, they are happy to see foreign faces. They are generally honest and kind, although sometimes cautious in their choice of discussion topics with foreigners.

Corruption

Myanmar is one of the world's most corrupt countries. Officials and other government servants may discreetly ask you for a bribe, or invent issues (missing forms, closed offices, etc) in order to get you to suggest one. Pretending not to understand or asking to speak to a superior may work. However, visitors of Caucasian descent are rarely targeted, while those of Asian descent (including South Asians and East Asians) may be forced to give bribes, but the brunt of the problem hits normal Burmese.

Civil conflict

Various insurgent groups continue to operate in the Shan, Mon, Chin, and Karen States of Myanmar, along the Thai and Chinese borders. Travel to these regions is generally not permitted by the Myanmar government without a permit. In addition, travel to Kayah State and Rakhine State is restricted heavily, due to human rights issues and ongoing conflicts with rebel groups. As a general rule, divisions (Yangon, Bago, Ayeyarwady, Sagaing, Taninthayi, Mandalay, Magwe) are permitted tourist areas.

Politics

Myanmar has been subject to rule by a harsh military junta for much of the past 40 years, and has a reputation abroad for brutally crushing political dissent, as in the case of the frequent house arrests of democracy campaigner Aung San Suu Kyi. When in Myanmar, abstain from political activities and don't insult the government, or at least not when anyone from the government is listening.

Do not try to open a political discussion with a recent acquaintance. People will talk to you after they know you well enough. Also, realize that many phone lines are tapped. As a foreigner, you are safe. The worst thing the government would do to you is expel you. But if you somehow reveal confidential information about the political activities of a local, that local could be in real trouble in Myanmar's notorious jails.

Stay healthy

Tap water is not safe, nor is ice. Always buy bottled water. Tropical diseases such as dengue fever, Japanese encephalitis and malaria are endemic. Drug-resistant strains of malaria and tuberculosis are common in many areas. Hepatitis vaccinations are highly recommended. At restaurants, always use a new pair of chopsticks, although chopsticks generally are not used. Instead, Burmese use Western utensils or, if very traditional, eat with their hands.

Follow the old rule "if you can't fry it, stir it, peel it or boil it - then forget about it".

Respect

The people of Myanmar are very conservative in their dress and behaviour and you should pay special attention to respecting their Buddhist traditions wherever you go, but particularly in temples and monasteries (of which there are thousands). Shorts and sleeveless shirts are frowned upon and in fact, are not allowed in shrines, temples and monasteries. Short skirts are also not recommended. You must also remove your shoes in these locations, so the easiest thing for a tourist is to dress like the locals!

For both men and women, this means a longyi, or wrap skirt similar to a sarong that you can purchase everywhere. They are wrapped in different ways for men and women, so find a local who can show you how to tie them. Also recommended are flipflops (called slippers by the locals) that can be easily slipped off and left at the temple entrance.

Also avoid t-shirts with images of Buddhas or Buddhist imagery, which is considered highly disrespectful.

Give generously at temples and monasteries but be aware that most will not allow women to enter some of the more sacred areas. You can purchase gold leaf that is applied to Buddha statues, but again, women are generally not allowed, so don't make a fuss and respect this tradition!

When praying or paying respects, it is important to ensure that your feet do not point towards the Buddha or towards people. Do not point to images of Buddha. Tuck your feet underneath you when kneeling at shrines and temples.

Tourists of Caucasian descent are commonly referred to as bo, which translates "leader", as a sign of respect. Address elders with U (pronounced "oo", as in soon) or "Uncle" for men, and Daw or "Auntie" for women.

Telephone

International phone calls can be arranged at the Central Telephone & Telegraph Office at the corner of Ponsodan and Mahabandoola Streets in Yangon. International Direct Dial calls are also available at most hotels and at many public call offices (often a phone in a shop). But expect to pay through the nose because international calls are expensive. For example, a call to the US costs about $6 to $7 a minute.

Mail

International mail out of Myanmar is reportedly quite efficient. If you have anything of any value mailed in, it may disappear.

Internet

Internet is now widely and fairly cheaply available in most of the tourist areas (especially Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan) but very limited elsewhere, however access is genererally very slow and many sites are inaccessible. Rates are around 1000 kyat/hour in Yangon and 2000-5000 kyat/hour in other tourist areas.

Webmail: all popular free webmail providers are blocked. Many Internet cafés have found ways to circumvent this though so you shouldn't have a problem acessing your webmail if you really need to, provided of course that an Internet café (or electricity for that matter) exists where you are. If you find someone who knows how to access web-mail, make sure you note down what they did - in smaller cities, people know much less about these work-arounds. In any case, never depend on being able to access your email! As of May 2006, the following workarounds worked:

• Gmail - use https://mail.google.com - secure access doesn't seem to have been blocked.If blocked ,use www.polysolve.com to bypass the blockage.

• Yahoo - use http://wap.oa.yahoo.com - the WAP (mobile phone) gateway - however this results in a very basic/limited interface

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