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Mogadishu
Mogadishu (Somali: Muqdisho) is the official capital of Somalia, but it is not actually controlled by the internationally-recognized Somali government. The city has been run by warring clans since the Somalia government collapsed 15 years ago. In early 2006, an Islamic council took control of the capital from the clans and tried to install a radical Islamic state similar to the Taliban in Afghanistan. On December 28, 2006, however, the Islamic regime fled the city to the south as Ethiopian-backed government troops re-took the capital without firing a shot in a surprising escalation of events. The city is still a highly dangerous place though, and it is strongly advised to refrain from visiting at this time. New fears are mounting about an Iraq-style insurgency developing from left-over Islamic Court Fighters.
Culture and History
While slightly inaccurate, the war film Black Hawk Down can, in some ways, give a better understanding of the lawlessness and dangers that exist in Mogadishu and other parts of Somalia. The story of Black Hawk Down, in which over a dozen American servicemen were killed on the lawless streets of Mogadishu, was a main factor in the Rwandan genocide. The Clinton administration cited the Mogadishu slaughter as the main reason to not intervene in the ethnic killing in Rwanda. 800,000 people ended up dying in Rwanda before a UN peacekeeping force was allowed to intervene.
Travel to Mogadishu, visa requirements
The Mogadishu airport was bombed in December 2006 by Ethiopia to keep the Islamic Fighters from receiving supplies. The few commercial flights that did commute in and out of the city have been suspended. It is possible to drive into the city by truck, but this is considered a risky activity. Armed guards, hired security forces, and experienced guides are all but mandatory for a safe entry, and even then the risk of your being injured or killed is extremely high. In addition, arriving by boat is even more discouraged as there is a very high chance of being attacked by pirates.
Get around
Mogadishu has had no effective government for 15 years, which has left the transport network that was in place in disrepair. Roads are a muddy mess during rain, traffic lights do not work, and there are no enforced traffic laws or public transport. Some reports say that to get through intersections near markets crowded with people, those wealthy enough to have vehicles fire machine guns into the air to clear a path. Safe travel through Mogadishu is only possible by convoy with heavily armed guides and guards, which actually can be hired quite easily. Even with guards, the likelihood of being injured, kidnapped, and/or killed is still very high. The only traffic rule that can be agreed upon is the traffic drives on the left side of the road.
Mogadishu attractions and sightseeing
City tours
Shopping, Mogadishu souvenirs
Good restaurants and cheap meals
Mogadishu nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs.
Hotels, youth hostels, lodging
- Hotel Nasa-Hablod Km 4, (2 Km from International Airport), eno10@hotmail.com. Restricted access, meeting rooms, safe, TV, internet access, a/c.
- Sahafi Hotel. One of the best hotels in Mogadishu. The Manager is very helpful, the staff is attentive, and the food is good. Although the compound is probably your safest bet (if there is such a thing) in Mogadishu, a BBC producer was shot in the back and killed in front of the hotel in 2005.
Stay safe
The safest way through Mogadishu is escorted by Ethiopian and official Somalian troops. Independent travel will most likely lead to your death. When being escorted, it is best to be in an armored car or, even better, a Tank. Infantry are highly likely to get engaged in street battles, and an armored vehicle can provide far better protection.
Get out
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