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Matsuyama

For other places with the same name, see Matsuyama (disambiguation).

Matsuyama (松山) [1], meaning "pine mountain", is the homely capital of Ehime Prefecture on the island of Shikoku in Japan. Founded on December 15, 1889, this city of 515,000 is located in the Matsuyama Plain, a river basin formed by the flow of the Ishite and Shigenobu rivers, and nestled by the Ishizuchi mountain range to the south and Takanawa Mountains to the north. Home to exquisite citrus products, the climate is overall mild and temperate (avg. temp 15 Celsius), somewhat balmy in summer, with most rainfall occurring in late spring and almost no snow in winter.

Quite provincial yet hospitable to travelers, and a hub of business and shopping amongst the lazy calm of the countryside, Matsuyama has much to offer in the way of literary and curious cultural assets.

Culture and History

Matsuyama is perhaps best known for Dōgo Onsen (道後温泉), which attracts hot spring enthusiasts and newcomers alike to its steamy waters that emerge from faults in the east-west tectonic line. This public bathhouse is thought to be the oldest in Japan, a claim reinforced by its mention in the second oldest book of Japanese history, Nihon Shoki (720 AD). For literary buffs, renowned novelist Natsume Sōseki (夏目漱石), whose visage graced the 1,000 yen note, wrote his classic novel Botchan while living and working there as a teacher, thus putting Matsuyama on the map. Although the area does not come off well in the Edo-phile's description, the town nevertheless celebrates the connection with a variety of events and displays. Masaoka Shiki (正岡子規), Natsume’s friend and mentor, was not only a native of Matsuyama, but is one of the four great masters of haiku. He single-handedly revolutionized Japanese poetry by revitalizing the old form and modernizing the themes, thus making the short verse once again relevant to modern Japanese culture.

Travel to Matsuyama & Visa Requirements

Flights and airtickets to Matsuyama

Nonstop air service is offered into Matsuyama from major airports such as Tokyo Haneda, Nagoya Komaki, Osaka Itami and Fukuoka, as well as from Okinawa. There are also direct flights to and from Seoul and Shanghai. The Limousine Bus connects the airport to Dogo Onsen, running at 20 minute intervals (¥300).

• Matsuyama Airport, ☎ 089-972-5600, [2].  edit

By train

Matsuyama is located on the JR Yosan Line. To reach Matsuyama by rail from the Japanese mainland, take the Sanyo Shinkansen to Okayama, and transfer to the Shiokaze Limited Express, which will get you to Matsuyama in about three hours (¥6630).

The Ishizuchi Limited Express connects Matsuyama with Takamatsu on the eastern end of Shikoku (2 1/2 hours, ¥6010). The Uwakai and a few other limited express services run from Matsuyama to Uwajima (75 minutes, ¥3410). Be careful, as many limited express trains in Shikoku combine or divide with others at certain stations, so be sure you're in the correct part of the train.

Local trains during the day take much longer, and will probably not leave you with ample time for sightseeing.

The overnight train from Tokyo departs at 22:00. The Sunrise Seto train goes to Sakaide (坂出) station, the first stop after crossing the long Seto-Ohashi bridge, and the station before Takamatsu. After a 40-minute wait (during which you may be able to get a bite to eat), take the Ishizuchi limited express to Matsuyama, arriving at 10 AM. The Sunrise Seto is one of the few overnight trains in Japan with a shower on board. You can use the shower for a small fee, or for no charge, depending on your accommodation type. But, if you don't like being limited to six minutes worth of water, just bathe yourself at Dogo Onsen instead! Note that during Holiday periods, the Sunrise Seto runs directly to Matsuyama after reversing direction at Takamatsu.

• JR Shikoku Matsuyama Station, ☎ 089-943-5101, [3].  edit
• Iyo Railway Matsuyama Station, ☎ 089-948-3329, [4].  edit

Buses to Matsuyama

A daily overnight bus service, the Dream Takamatsu Matsuyama runs from Tokyo Station, leaving at 10:20 PM and arriving just before 9 AM the next morning. 12.5 hours, ¥9400 one way, ¥17000 round-trip.

• JR Shikoku Bus, ☎ 087-825-1657.  edit

123bus [5] is another company which provides bus services between Tokyo and Matsuyama, Osaka and Matsuyama. Call in English: 050-3533-4639 or email: mail@123bus.net

By ferry

Ferry services connect Matsuyama with various locations on Honshu and Kyushu. Ferries depart from the ferry terminal, Matsuyama Kankoko (松山観光港). To reach the ferry terminal from Matsuyama Station, take the private Iyo railway line from nearby Otemachi (大手町) station. At the terminating station, Takahama (高浜), take the shuttle bus to the port.

• Ishizaki Ferry operates daily to and from Hiroshima, with some boats stopping in Kure (呉). The Superjet Hydrofoil service departs from Matsuyama every hour, on the hour, from 7:00 to 21:00. The ride takes 70-80 minutes to reach Hiroshima and costs ¥6900 each way. Slower ferries depart on different schedules between 6:50 and 19:55 (10 per day), reaching Hiroshima in about 2 1/2 hours at a cost of only ¥2700 each way.

• There are also two daily Ishizaki Ferry services to Moji and Shimonoseki, departing at 7:50 and 15:10. The boats arrive in Moji at 10:30 and 17:50 respectively, with arrival in Shimonoseki 10 minutes later. The fare is ¥8500 each way, with second-floor Super Seats costing an extra ¥1000.

• Kansai Ferry runs overnight services from Beppu, stopping in Matsuyama enroute to Kobe and Osaka. The ferry departs at 22:40 and arrives in Kobe at 6:50 and Osaka at 8:40 the next day. The morning ferry to Beppu departs at 6:55, arriving in Beppu at 10:25.

• In addition there is an overnight Kansai Ferry service to Kokura in Kitakyushu, leaving at 21:55 and arriving at 5:00 the next day, at a cost of ¥4000 each way.

• Diamond Ferry runs one day service and two night services to Kobe. The day boat leaves at 11:45, arriving in Kobe at 21:00. The overnight boats leave at 20:30 and 22:40, arriving at 5:30 and 6:50 the next day, respectively. There is also a morning service to Oita, departing at 7:50 and arriving in Oita at 11:15.

For the Kansai and Diamond Ferries, the cost is ¥3000 each way to Beppu and Oita, and ¥5900 each way to Kobe and Osaka.

• Mitsuhama Port, ☎ 089-951-3509.  edit
• Matsuyama Kanko, ☎ 089-967-6667, [6].  edit

Tours & Getting around Matsuyama

If you plan on staying for an extended period of time (or believe you will spend more than ¥2,000 on transportation), you may want to buy an I~C Card at Matsuyama Shieki. Using this card gives 10% discounts on all Iyotetsu transportation, including Iyotetsu Taxis.

Traveling on foot is an entirely viable way of getting around downtown at a comfortable pace.

By streetcar

Streetcars were abolished in most Japanese cities, but are still used in Matsuyama and are a popular method of getting around. The flat fare is ¥150 per trip; a one-day pass for the streetcars costs ¥300. There is also a special streetcar named Botchan Ressha which is a recreation of the old steam powered street cars, but is powered by a diesel engine.

By bus

Iyotetsu (伊予鉄) city buses connect all corners of Matsuyama City (except for the island, Nakajima), from the ferry port in the west to Kume in the east, and from Hōjō in the north to Tobe in the south. The hub is Matsuyama Shieki (松山市駅). However, timetables are not in English, but if you can pronounce the destination, the driver will help you get there. Fares start at ¥150. Enter buses in the rear and take a slip of paper. If you need to change a yen note, insert it into the machine at the front of the bus to receive change. When you are ready to disembark, go to the front, check the amount due on the above chart and drop the money into the slot. Buses run once an hour from the Takahama Ferry Port to Dōgo Onsen Eki. There is also an East-West Loop bus which connects all vital areas and whose fare is ¥150.

• Iyotetsu Bus, [7].  edit

By train

Outer City Commuter Train(郊外電車), ☎ 089-948-3329. Trains, which are not JR, are controlled by Iyotetsu as well, the hub, of course, being Matsuyama Shieki. Trains run from Yokogawara to Iyo to Takahama, every 15 minutes and are quite reliable.¥150-500.  edit

By taxi

Taxis are convenient and prevalent. Fares begin at ¥550 or ¥560 depending on the size of the car, but prepare to pay at a higher rate after-hours (~20%) and for congestion. Like most Japanese taxis, the doors are controlled by the driver.

• Iyotetsu Taxi(伊予鉄), Ichibanchou, ☎ 089-921-3166.  edit
• Fuji Taxi(ふじ). Routinely accommodates wheelchairs and bicycles edit
• Kintetsu Taxi(近鉄), Miyanishichou, ☎ 089-924-6111.  edit

By car

Rental cars are available to those with an International Driving Permit or Japanese license. The Nissan Car Rental port at the intersection of Nishihoribata and Hanazoromachi, across from JAL Hotel. Car rental is not advised or practical for city travel.

• Nissan Rentacar, ☎ 089-974-2341, [8]. 08:00-20:00.  edit
• Toyota Rentacar, 109-6 Miyadamachi, ☎ 089-972-6100, [9]. 08:00-17:00.  edit

By bicycle

• If you are so inclined, bicycles can be rented from EPIC (Ehime Prefectural International Center, 愛媛県国際交流センター) [10] which is located behind the Ehime Prefecture Culture Hall and other places such as bike shops or city facilities. Be warned: they are often neither mountain nor racing bikes, and come with one to three gears. This is a great, although occasionally perilous, way of getting around because you are able to stop and go and browse the sights at your leisure.

• Jinrikisha (人力車) are "man-powered vehicles" popularized by the elite in the Edo period, and are only available for rent around Dōgo. Fares, including a guided tour by your carrier, start at ¥1500 for 15 minutes. There may be an English speaker available.

Matsuyama attractions and sightseeing

• Akiyama Brothers Birthplace(秋山兄弟生誕地), 2-3-6 Kachimachi, ☎ 089-943-2747, [11]. 10:00-17:00, closed Monday, 12/28-01/03. Born to a lower class branch of the Matsuyama samurai clan, Akiyama Kyōdai Seitanchi pays tribute to two brothers who became modern military heroes of Japan. Yoshifuru, the eldest, is credited with being the father of the Japanese Cavalry, while Saneyuki excelled in naval tactics. Yoshifuru entered what would become the Imperial Japanese Army Academy, then the Army War College and later traveled to France to study cavalry techniques in 1887. After serving in the Sino-Japanese War (1894-1895) he successfully established a cavalry division which debuted in the Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905), thrusting him into the military spotlight. After holding numerous posts of prestige, he was promoted to General in 1916 and finally retired to become a junior high school principal in Matsuyama. A childhood friend of Masaoka Shiki, Saneyuki shared his love of the written word and the two studied literature at Tokyo University. However, at the behest of his brother, Saneyuki left school and joined the Naval Academy in Tsukiji, embarking on a much more interesting military career. Being exceptionally bright, he quickly became a Lieutenant Commander who served well in the Sino-Japanese War. He was sent to America to study naval tactics, highly inspired by the writings of Thayer Mahan, but encountered many obstacles in his quest for knowledge due to his nationality. Eventually, he gained on-the-job training during the Spanish-American War (1898), spent time in Europe as well before returning to Japan where he became the foremost strategist for the Russo-Japanese War, leading to a glorious victory on Tsushima. After going to Europe again to study World War I, he became Vice Admiral in 1917 and taught naval tactics at the Naval War College, stressing the importance of popular mobilization and modern technological warfare. Adult: ¥200. edit

• Bansuiso(萬翠荘), 3-3-7 Ichibanchō, ☎ 089-921-3711. 09:40-18:00, closed Monday, 12/29-01/05. This, the oldest French style building in Matsuyama, was constructed in 1922 for the former lord of Matsuyama Castle, Hisamatsu Sadakoto (久松定謨). After having lived and studied in France, Hisamatsu became enamored with the romantic architectural style, and upon returning hired Kigo Shichirō (木子七郎), who later designed Ehime Prefecture Headquarters and Ehime Municipal Library, to build his villa. This Taishō Era estate was the venue of many parties for the elite in its heyday, and the Emperor himself made it a point to visit whenever he was in the area. Currently, it is used as the Museum of Art's annex. The first floor's gallery changes throughout the year and is free, while the collection on the second floor showcases ink paintings by Shiki, Sōseki and other Ehime natives.Adult: ¥100, Child: ¥50.  edit

• Botchan Gizmo Clock(坊っちゃんカラクリ時計), Dōgo Yunomachi Hōjōen, ☎ 089-948-6557. Chimes between 08:00-21:00. Admirers of the aforementioned Botchan may enjoy watching the Gizmo Clock located beside Dōgo Onsen Station at the mouth of the shopping arcade when it chimes every hour and half hour. Botchan Karakuri Tokei was completed in 1994 to memorialize the 100th year of the last reconstruction of Dōgo Bathhouse, and the animatronics that emerge during the musical interlude depict special scenes from the novel. Free. edit

• Dōgo Brewery(道後ビール水口酒造), 3-23 Dōgo Kitachō, ☎ 089-924-6616, [12]. 08:30-17:00. Local beer breweries are a rare find in Japan, so it's no surprise that locals take so much pride in Suiguchi Shuzō. At the end of your complimentary tour of the tiny facility, and after you've tasted each of their signature brands - the crisp Stout, hardy Madonna Alt and mild Botchan Kölsch - you can try asking the manager what the secret is to the smooth, clean taste, but you won't get much of an answer. It could be the use of Dōgo's sacred waters or the meticulous hopps roasting technique. Beer is brewed in the spring and summer, while shōchū is made in the fall and winter. Free. edit

• Dōgo Park & Yuzuki Castle Ruins(道後公園・湯築城), Dōgo Park, ☎ 089-941-1480, [13]. Dōgo Park: 24 hours, Yuzuki Castle Ruins: 09:00-17:00, Monday, 12/29-01/03. From mid-March through the month of April, the typically peaceful Dōgo Park is overwhelmed by inebriated locals and hawking vendors who come to take part in the most ancient of activities, hanami, or viewing of sakura (cherry blossoms). An oval shaped patch of green in the overdeveloped Dōgo neighborhood, Dōgo Kōen is an important part of Matsuyama's identity because it harbors the ruins of Yuzuki Castle. Yuzukijō was the residence of the Kōno Clan (河野) who ruled Iyo Province (伊予, now Ehime), defending it from Mongols and making Dōgo the center of culture and commerce for the region, from the 13th to the late 16th century when war lord Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣秀吉) sent an army to Shikoku to conquer and unify Japan. The excavation of the 30,000 square meter site took over 14 years, but the castle, gardens and lords' houses were all recovered. Within the recreated homes, mannequins silently act out the daily lives of the elite during that time, drinking tea and writing renga (poems composed by a group). There is also a library and if reservations are made, a volunteer English-speaking guide can show visitors around. Free. edit

• Gudabutsuan(愚陀仏庵), 3-3-7 Ichibanchō, ☎ 089-921-3711. 09:40-18:00, closed Monday, 12/29-01/05. "Stupid Buddha" was the name given to this quiet hermitage that Sōseki and Shiki shared for 52 days in the year 1895. Sōseki, who taught English at Matsuyama Junior High, lived upstairs while Shiki bravely fought tuberculosis in a room below. Those few days were a pivotal time for modern Japanese poetry; Shiki invited other haiku artists to debate the merits of the verse and he also taught techniques to students of the Shofukai Haiku School. Sōseki, who was himself at a turning point in his life, was greatly inspired by his college friend's passion and after parting ways, began a serious career in literature.Free, tea ¥300.  edit

• Isaniwa Shrine(伊佐爾波神社), 173 Sakuratani, ☎ 089-947-7447, [14]. 24 hours. Sitting upon Dōgo Hill and assessable by car or climbing 135 stone steps, this important cultural asset is one of three great examples of Buddhist Hachiman-zukuri (God of War) architecture in Japan. As promised by the lord of Matsuyama Castle, Matsudaira Sadanaga (松平定長), if the gods awarded him victory in the 1667 Edo Castle Yabusame (horseback archery) competition, the outer walls of Isaniwa Shrine are modeled after the Iwashimizu Hachiman Shrine in Kyoto, while the inner sanctum (the oldest part of the shrine) are in various Shinto styles of the 17th century. Memorials honoring the warlords who fought against the Kamakura battalion are guarded by stalwart dogs who watch over the four deities adorning the four corners of the vermillion structure, and to whom the shrine is dedicated. It should be understood that to the Japanese, the literal objects at important locations are not exactly as significant as the location itself, so purposely moving, dismantling and rebuilding sacred sites is not frowned upon. Isaniwa Jinja, in all of its various forms and styles, has been worshipped at least since the 900s, and is the marker of where two Heian Era monarchs bathed in Dōgo springs. There are exhibitions of feudal era armor (including Matsudaira's helmet) and swords (Tachi Mei, a mid-Kamakura era piece crafted by the famous Kuniyuki Rai) as well as occasional events such as weddings and Shichi-Go-San throughout the year.Free.  edit

• Kōshinan Historic Park(庚申庵史跡庭園), 2-6-7 Misakechō, ☎ 089-915-2204, [15]. 10:00-18:00, closed Wednesday. This small house where numerous tea ceremonies were performed was built in 1790 as a gift to Kobayashi Issa (小林一茶) by his friend Kurita Chodō (栗田樗堂), from one poet to another. The design was inspired by Matsuo Bashō's idyllic hut and the name comes from the sexagenary cycle of the year. Recently restored to its former beauty, when the fujidana wisteria are in bloom, Kōshinan Shiseki Teien is truly a sight to behold. It is free to tour, but reserving the rooms is also possible.Free.  edit

• Matsuyama Castle(松山城), 1 Marunouchi, ☎ 089-921-4873(matsuyamajyo@city.matsuyama.ehime.jp), [16]. 08:30-16:30, closed 12/29. Situated on the 130m tall Katsuyama Hill in the center of the city, this is one of three multi-wing, flat hilltop castles remaining in Japan. Before the industrial revolution, one could readily view the castle from almost all corners of the city, but even now travelers can orientate themselves using the old compass. This sprawling fortress, constructed by the feudal lord Katō Yoshiaki (加藤嘉明) over the course of 25 years, was completed in 1627, and like all castles has been the victim of arson and lightning strikes. The main tower is a wooden framed structure (like Himeji Castle, as opposed to the many concrete reproduction castle towers found in most parts of Japan) and in fact renovation has just been completed within the past year, using techniques and materials consistent with its 17th century construction. With four of its eight strategic gates designated national cultural treasures (Inui Gate is the only actual original part) and the wealth of historical artifacts – swords and armor belonging to the three occupying families, calligraphy and official documents from the feudal era – and narratives available (in English) within its majestic walls, Matsuyamajō is well worth the hike. The castle is accessible by hiking a wooded trail, but the cable car or chairlift (ropeway, ロープウェイ) can be boarded at the east entrance, located along Ropeway Street. Cable car and chairlift times correspond to castle tour times, and the fee is ¥500 roundtrip.Adult: ¥500, Child: ¥150.  edit

• Matsuyama Central Park(松山総合公園), 1-1633-2 Asahigaoka, ☎ 089-923-9439. 24. Curiously styled as a European fortress wall and atop a hill high enough to parallel the castle, Matsuyama Sōgō Kōen provides a 360 degree panorama view of Matsuyama and features a playground for children.Free.  edit

• Museum of Art, Ehime(愛媛県美術館), Horinouchi, [17]. 09:40-18:00, closed Monday, 19/29-01/03. Ehimeken Bijutsukan is a surprisingly discreet 10,300 square meter facility located in Shiroyama Park (at the base of the castle and surrounded by a moat) and houses a permanent collection from Ehime natives such as Takubo Kyōji (mixed media sculptor) and Kangaku Oki (ink painter) as well as temporary exhibits from all over the globe. There is a rental gallery where Ehime residents can display their pieces, free workshops, a library, and café.Adult: ¥300, Student: ¥200.  edit

• Ninomaru Historical Garden(二ノ丸史跡庭園), 5 Marunouchi, ☎ 089-921-2000, [18]. 09:00-16:40, closed 12/29. Located southwest of the castle on the hillside, Ninomaru Shiseki Teien is another excellent point for viewing the city. The ruins of the Matsuyama Clan estate are preserved and celebrated in a romantic mixture of contemporary fountain designs and ancient garden aesthetics. Viewable from the castle's donjon, mystical Takigi Nō (nocturnal plays by bonfire) performances take place here throughout the year and families enjoy picnics in its quiet serenity. Special cultural events (tea ceremonies, doll exhibitions, drum performances, etc.) are hosted, so check with the office or website to find out more.Adult: ¥100, Child: ¥50.  edit

• Russian Soliders' Cemetery(ロシヤ人墓地), 1-525 Miyuki. 24 Hours. During the Russo-Japanese War, a number of Russian soliders became POWs, and some ended up in Matsuyama's prison camp. Not viewed as criminals but warriors who loved another nation, these prisoners are said to have had a relatively easy life in Matsuyama and in fact participated in what we call cultural exchange. To this day, volunteers of the community respectfully tend to their tombs which are in the center of a sacred circle of temples and shrines.Free.  edit

• Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum(坂の上の雲ミュージアム), 20-3 Ichibanchō, ☎ 089-915-2600(saka-museum@city.matsuyama.ehime.jp), [19]. 09:40-18:00, closed most Mondays, first Tuesday, 12/29-01/03. The name means "The Cloud Over an Upward Slope", and refers to the title of a book written by Shiba Ryōtarō (司馬 遼太郎) depicting the struggles Japanese people encountered as they rebuilt their country after the Meiji Revolution and also the conflict with Russia. This impressive building, designed by well-known architect Ando Tadao (安藤忠雄), tells the stories of the Akiyama Brothers, heroes of the Russo-Japanese War, and Masaoka Shiki and is just one of the many bastions of literary pride for Matsuyama. The ¥400 admission may be a little steep for non-Japanese readers as there is absolutely no English inside to explain the importance of the exhibits, but the Meiji Karakuri Theatre (moving 'stick' figures) is quite entertaining. A TV series is slated for airing in 2009 based on the book, and is set on location.Adult: ¥400, Student: ¥200.  edit

• Shiki Commemorative Museum(子規記念博物館), 1-30 Dōgo Kōen, ☎ 089-931-5566(tomo@sikihakutomonokai.jp), [20]. 09:00-17:00, closed Monday. Located in the Dōgo area, the Shiki Kinen Hakubutsukan has a large collection of literature, art work and special exhibits about different areas of the life of one of Japan's most influential writers, Masaoka Shiki (1867-1902). Born to a lower class samurai family, he had a modest childhood, but because he was educated thoroughly and had an inspiring uncle who served in public office, Shiki was able to enter Tokyo Imperial University to study philosophy and politics, but later became a journalist informing the Japanese about the Russo-Japanese War front. His true literary career began when he started criticizing the Edo period's iconic haiku artist Matsuo Bashō, but praising Yosa Buson, who he felt was brief yet refined.Adult: ¥400, Student: ¥320.  edit

• Shikidō(子規堂), 16-3 Suehiromachi, ☎ 089-945-0400, [21]. 08:30-17:00. The main rooms of the house where Shiki spent the first 17 years of his life were replicated and set up in Shōju Temple near the center of the city. The desk and artifacts from his childhood are displayed as he would have had them. The facility is complete with literary and artistic works discovered after his death, pictures and even some monuments dedicated to other renowned haiku poets.¥50.  edit

88 temple pilgrimage

Eight temples in Matsuyama are part of the Pilgrimage.

• Jōruri Temple(浄瑠璃寺), 327 Jorurichou. #46. Created in 708, this temple houses one of Gyoki's Yakushinyorai statue, the first of its kind and the guardian of knowledge and art. edit
• Yasaka Temple(八坂寺), 773 Jorurichō. #47. Built in 701, this temple has the first Amida Nyorai deity statue. edit
• Sairin Temple(西林寺), 1007 Takai. #48. This is where Kōbō-Daishi (弘法大師) struck the ground with his stick and created a pond, but also where his 11-headed Kannon stands. edit
• Jōdo Temple(浄土寺), 1198 Takanokochō. #49. Jōdo was built in the 700s by Emyo Shonin. edit
• Hanta Temple(繁多寺), 32 Hatateramachi. #50. Another Yakushinyorai statue is worshipped here. edit
• Ishite Temple(石手寺), 2-9-21 Ishite, ☎ 089-977-0870, [22]. 24 hours. #51. This is one of the most impressive of the 88 Temples in the Pilgrimage, housing a variety of statues, haiku stones and treasures scattered about the grounds, some of its more interesting aspects being the Deva Hall with its murals of gods, the belfry and the giant stone stature of Kōbō Daishi whose head, if you can touch it, will absolve you of making the entire pilgrimage. Founded in 728 and part of the Shingon Sect of Buddhism, Ishite Temple embodies one of the most moving of Buddhist legends of greed, sorrow, repentance and reincarnation. The Niomon Gate is a National Treasure and the 3 Story Pagoda and hall are in the Kamakura style. Smoke from the incense of pilgrims making their prayers fill the inner sanctum. Ishiteji celebrates the New Year like no other temple in Matsuyama with vendors selling regional fares, nightly performances and excessive, colorful decorations and thousands of candles from those seeking good fortune in the new year.Free.  edit
• Taizan Temple(太山寺), 1730 Taisanjichō. #52. An 11-headed Kannon and Shitenno god statues reside here. edit
• Enmyō Temple(円明寺), 1-182 Wakichō. #53. Also built in the 8th century, the dō style of this temple was rebuilt in 1633. edit

Matsuyama city tours

Matsuyama is a small city and yet the biggest on Shikoku. This allows for versitility in pacing and activities, and means that visitors can do most of the things they can on Honshu, but still participate in activities that they may not have the opportunity to do on the three big islands. In the words of one native: "We don't have geisha - we have Madonna!"

Dōgo Onsen Honkan (道後温泉本館)

5-6 Yunomachi, Dōgo, ☎ 089-943-8342(fax: 089-943-8343), [23]. Grab your towel and go bathing! Dōgo Onsen is the oldest and most famous onsen in Japan, with a history stretching back over 3,000 years. Quite a few legends surround these waters. One says that the springs of Dōgo were discovered when, during the age of the gods, a heron placed his injured leg into hot water streaming out of a rock and was miraculously healed. Another claims that when one god put an ill god into the hot spring, the god recovered and danced for joy. The heron myth has become the principle story and so the motif is everywhere inside the building. Tama no ishi or Yudama, the round rock from which the healing waters sprang, is the source of the symbol for Dōgo, though it looks more like a chestnut to some. According to legend, Prince Shotoku (574-622) used to partake of the waters, and in 1899, the annex Yushinden, was built so that the Imperial Family could enjoy Dōgo in privacy. The last time the Emperor visited Dogo was in the 70's, but the curious can peek into the rooms. (Yushinden 15 minute tour without bathing: Adult: ¥250, Child: ¥120.) There is also an exhibition room features artifacts connected with the various stages of Dōgo Onsen's history. There are two types of baths in the honkan for both men and women. The differences between the two Kami no Yu and Tama no Yu baths are accessible places, surroundings and service. * Kami no Yu 1F (神の湯) 06:00-23:00. "Bath of the Gods" is a simple public style bath in a pseudo-Mediterranean setting. Towels and soap are not provided but can be bought cheaply at the front.　Adult: ¥400, Child: ¥150. * Kami no Yu 2F 06:00-22:00. The path marked in blue, bathers can use the lounge, wear a Dogo yukata and have tea with sembei (rice cracker) for 60 minutes. By entering the second floor, visitors also have access to both the Exhibition and Botchan's Rooms. Adult: ¥800, Child: ¥400. * Tama no Yu 2F (霊の湯) 06:00-22:00. The "Bath of the Spirits" 60 minute course includes use of Kami no Yu, lounge, a yukata, snacks, towel, the two aforementioned rooms and a 15 minute Yushinden tour. Follow the red path. Adult: ¥1,200, Child: ¥600. * Tama no Yu Private Room 3F 06:00-22:00. Marked by yellow, this course is 80 minutes and not only is the room private, but the yukata has a heron design and botchan dango (dumplings) are served. Adult: ¥1,500, Child: ¥750.

Others

• Baishinji Park(梅津寺パーク), 1386-5 Baishinjichō(Take Iyotetsu train for Takahama until Baishinji Eki), ☎ 089-951-0870. 09:10-17:30 March-October, 09:10-16:50 November-February. It's a decrepit-looking theme park whose pamphlets boast of being visited by "throngs" annually, and no one will stop you from riding the hair-raising "Camelback Coaster" or taking a spin on the ferris wheel, but don't say we didn't warn you.¥200.  edit

• Ehime Children's Castle(えひめこどもの城), 108 Nishinochō, Otsu, ☎ 089-963-3300(fax: 089-963-4990), [24]. 09:00-17:00, closed Monday, 12/29-01/01. This vast playground, all 350,000 square meters, consists of five play zones with slides, roller coasters and even workshops for cooking and crafts. Great for families, but couples can enjoy the magical atmosphere of Kodomo no Jō, too.Adult: ¥300, Child: ¥100.  edit

• Haiku Monument Tour(俳碑めぐり), [25]. 24 hours. Perhaps it was Lord Matsudaira Sadano who, during the Edo period, began nurturing Matsuyama's poetic fascination, but many well-known haiku writers originated from or have made pilgrimages to Matsuyama, thus giving it the title "Town of Haiku"　(俳句の里). As you tour the city and find the dozens of stones engraved with timeless verses, or do the Hiku Meguri, stop and ponder the thoughtful haiku written by those who once walked the same streets decades and centuries ago. There are also stands where one may write and submit his or her own verse. Haiku no Ro, the two-way street on the left of the Ehime Prefectural Convention Hall, features a number of these stones. Some of the most frequent haiku artists on display are Takahama Kyoshi (高浜 虚子), Ishida Hakyō (石田波郷) and Yanagihara Kyokudō (柳原 極堂). Free. edit

• Iyo Kasuri Folk Craft Museum(伊予かすり会館), 1165 Kumanodai(Near Kinuyama), ☎ 089-922-0405, [26]. 08:10-18:50. Learn about the process of making Iyo's signature cloth and then create some of your own! Reservations necessary.Adult: ¥50, Child: ¥40.  edit

• Jungle/Okudōgo Onsen(ジャングル/奥道後　温泉), 267 Suemachi, Okudōgo(Bus 52 or 73 for Okudōgo and Yuyama New Town to Yu no Moto stop), ☎ 089-977-1111(info@okudogo.co.jp, fax: 089-977-5331), [27]. 05:30-24:00. The best kept secret when it comes to communal bathing in Matsuyama is the old timey resort Hotel Okudōgo's onsen saffari, and that's not surprising considering it's located beyond (奥's meaning in this context) Dōgo. There are 26 pools in all, half in Seseragi and the others in Kawasemi, and men and women's areas are switched almost everyday. It's called "Jungle Onsen" because of the choking amount of live fauna and the steamy atmosphere. No two pools have the same concotion (sulfur, alkaline, etc.) or style which makes pool-hopping fun. There are waterfall massages, saunas, temperatures ranging from scalding to what feels like freezing, and of course outdoor pools overlooking the forests of the Okudogo Mountains and the Ishite River.Adult: ¥500; Child: ¥250.  edit

• Koto Lessons(箏レッソン), 4-20-6 Sanbanchō, ☎ 089-943-2025(fax: 089-931-2041). 09:00-17:30, closed Monday. volunteers offer free koto lessons at the Matsuyama Information Center. The koto and picks are provided, but you must make a reservation.Free.  edit

• Zazen Meditation(坐禅), Keitoku Temple, 3-2-5 Takasagochou, ☎ 089-923-0568. Zazen, "seated meditation", is a form of Buddhist meditation used to empty the mind and simply exist in the moment. Try it out for some travel stress relief.Free.  edit

Matsuyama souvenirs & shopping

• Bamboo Craft is a speciality of Ehime, renowned for its durability and beauty.
• Hamashou(濱正), 3-6-24 Ishite(Along the road from Dōgo to Ishite Temple), ☎ 089-977－1131. Find quality, locally produced bamboo products (and other Ehime crafts) on the second floor. edit

• Iyo Kasuri Cloth is one of the many textiles Shikoku is known for. Kasuri means "splashed pattern." This cloth was traditionally woven with thread dyed indigo, but now it's made in many vibrant hues and is used for clothing, toys and accessories. Numerous stores along the Yunomachi shopping corridor offer this special product.

• Tobe Pottery boasts a history of over 220 years, making it the most famous pottery on the island. Designated a National Traditional Craft, its valued for its thickness, simplicity and the sensual contrast of the indigo against pristine white ceramic ware. Shops in Yunomachi sell many examples of Tobeyaki, but Tobe the town is not far from Matsuyama if one wishes to go to the source.

• Hime Daruma and Hime Temari: Two stories explain the origins of these cheerful artifacts. One says that when Emperor Ojin visited Dōgo Onsen he was inspired by the memory of his mother's pregnancy with him, and decided to craft an object to give expecting mothers good luck. The other says that after being left fatherless because of the Mongolian Invasion (1274-1281) and devoting the rest of her life to caring for her late patriarch's grave, the face of one of the daughters of the Kōno clan, Hime, was drawn over that of a Bodhidharma toyōka daruma (Bodhidharma being the founder of Zen Buddhism). In Japan, a bride brings a temari, which is simply the technicolor string ball, to the groom's house as a sign of "amicable settlement", but it is more commonly exchanged during New Year's and is a popular Christmas ornament around the world. Any sourvenir shop in Matsuyama will have these exclusively-from-Matsuyama products.

Special interests

• Animate(アニメイト), 4-10-8 Minatochō, BE-FLAT 4F, ☎ 089-913-1216, [28]. 11:00-19:00, closed first Monday. There are a few anime shops around the downtown area, but this is the landmark and the others aren't far away on foot. Walk a little further into Gentengai, and Melonbooks and Iashinbang will be on your left and up the stairs. Achieve moe at Merry Maid Cafe, located on the 5th floor of the appropriately named Waku Bldg. edit

• Dog Pillar(ドッグピラー), 5-1-11 Chifunemachi, ☎ 089-915-4448, [29]. 10:00-19:30. What canine wouldn't want to try some green tea doggie treats? edit

• Tsudaensōdō(津田演奏堂), 4-11-5 Minatochō(At the west mouth of Gententai Shopping Arcade), ☎ 089－941－6957. 10:00-19:00. If Misora Hibari is your idol, get your enka fix here! edit

Matsuyama Restaurants: cheap, moderate and expensive

Restaurants

• Goshiki Honten(五志喜本店), 3-5-4 Sanbanchō, ☎ 089-933-3838(info@goshiki-honten.jp), [30]. 11:00-21:00. Serving dishes such as taimeshi and five-colored noodles in a quaint setting, this restaurant is a fantastic place to experience Ehime cuisine.¥1,600-5,000.  edit

• Ladky's(ラルキー), 5-9 Hanazonochō, ☎ 089-948-0885, [31]. 11:00-14:30, 17:00-22:00. There are two locations, but this is the original small eatery. Ladky's serves up the best Indian food in town, or at least it seems so with its popularity among expats. Spice potency varies with the chef's mood, so choose wisely...or order the pudding to soothe the fire.Lunch: ¥1,000-2,000; Dinner: ¥1,500-2,500, Course: ¥2,900.  edit

• Matsuchika Town(まつちかタウン), 5-1-1 Minatomachi(Underground of Shieki.), ☎ 089-933-0857(fax: 089-933-0853), [32]. 10:00-21:00, closed 3rd Wednesday. Opened in 1971, this ramen (ラーメン) strip is the place to find regional noodle fare at comfortable prices. Try Sapporo Enishiya, Tōkyō Kyouka or Kumamoto Tengaiten. This is the only place in town where you'll see Matsuyama-ites waiting in lines for something edible, so trying to eat there for lunch is a test of patience richly rewarded.¥300-700.  edit

• Nikitatsu-an & Dōgo Bakushukan(にきたつ庵・道後麦酒館), 3-18 Kitamachi, Dōgo / 20-13 Yunomachi, Dōgo, ☎ 089-924-6617 / 089-945-6866. 11:00-21:30, closed Monday / 11:00-22:00. Apparently, there are only two restaurants privileged with having Dōgo Beer on the menu, and those are Nikitatsu-an and Dōgo Bakushukan. Bakushukan is the restaurant to the right of Dōgo Onsen Honkan and has a warm, semi-German theme. Nikitatsu, as you can see from the prices, is the romantic and sophisticated Japanese brasserie next door to the brewery.Nikitatsu: Lunch: ¥1,000-4,000, Dinner Course: ¥3,000-5,000, Iyo Specialities: ¥500-1,000; Bakushukan: Lunch or dinner: ¥1,000-2,000.  edit

• Peppers(ぺぱーず), 1-1-1 Yanimachi(Look for the yellow Bettle), ☎ 089-921-2248, [33]. 11:00-21:00. This is a cozy joint for Kansai (with eggs) or Hiroshima (with noodles) style okonomiyaki.Okonomiyaki: ¥500-650; Yakisoba: ¥500-600; Snack foods: ¥200-350.  edit

• Underground Café, Ropeway Street 3-6-6, Okazaki-Sangyo 2nd Bldg, ☎ 089-998-7710, [34]. Cafe/Lunch time 12:00-19:00, bar until 04:00. Here is one of the best kept secrets when it comes to night spots. UC has an open patio draped in the Union Jack, yet has the tastiest Mexican dishes in town. Try the quesadilla or enchilada, but don't bother with the nachos. They also serve a wide variety of highballs (¥525+), exotic beers (Sol, Pine and Red Stripe), pasta and rice dishes (¥420+). Pictures of all dishes are available and for ¥3,000 a party of three can drink as much as they want and get a seven course meal. Find it by walking up Ropeway Street towards the castle, and then turning right at the fourth side street. edit

Dishes

• Botchan Dango (坊ちゃん団子) are skewered rice dumplings covered in bean paste dyed with green tea, eggs and azuki beans. This soft, sweet snack was popularized by Soseki having such a weakness for them that he included them in Botchan.

• Goshiki Soumen (五色そうめん) are five-colored Japanese noodles dyed using natural ingredients: eggs, green tea, buckwheat flour, plums and shiso. Thin yet strong, these make an excellent base for other regional fare.

• Mikan (みかん), or tangerines, and other citrus are highly prolific in Ehime due to the climate, sun and soil. They come in a multitude of species, including iyokan (grapefruit-like) and dekopon (huge, orange and puckered). Mikan are mainly harvested in the fall, are very cheap and are so treasured that they are used as offerings to ancestrial spirits.

• Taimeshi (鯛めし), developed in Uwajima, is sea bream/red snapper on top of dried kelp and gently boiled over rice in an unfinished earthenware pot. Variations occur up and down Ehime, but the idea is still the same and Uwajima style, raw and flavored with sake, is considered the principal upon which all others are built.

• Taisoumen (鯛そうめん) uses the same hearty fish, but this dish's beauty is in the noodles sculpted into waves and the seasonal nature of its presentation. Dip the noodles and fish into the tai sauce before savoring.

• Tarts (タルト) were derived from Nagasaki's Castella cake in the 1600s, but the jam was replaced by azuki bean paste and the cake rolled up to make this cute little sweet.

Matsuyama nightlife, bars, clubs & pubs

• Flankey Kobayashi(フランキー小林), Ichibanchō, Nichōme, 3-4, ☎ 089-933-5693, [35]. 17:00-02:00. A cozy standing bar popular due to its cheap fare and the friendliest English-speaking football-loving Japanese staff on the block. Draft beer and shiranami shōchū (potato based alcohol) are ¥250, Smirnoff Ice, yakisoba and chijimi are ¥350 and edamame (green beans) are ¥200. Located south of Moral Monkey bicycle parking lot on the right-side corner. edit

• Junk Field Sports & Cafe Bar(ジャンクフィールド), 2-5-10 Nibanchō, Zenana Bldg 2F, ☎ 089-934-8777, [36]. 18:00-03:00, closed Sunday. While you watch the game on one of the 3 large flat screens, you can order individual dishes and a drink or two, or one of their courses, which will run you ¥2,800 to ¥4,000. Heading south from Ichibanchō, this is down the one-way, side street on the right of Ōkaidō, and on the second floor of the building on your left after you cross Nibanchō street. edit

• New York Elephant (N.Y.E.), 3-10-1 Nibanchō, Chime Nibanchō Bldg 3F, ☎ 089-932-6140, [37]. 18:00-03:00. At this trendy bar, Steve serves up some nigh-authentic southern American cuisine. There is a cover charge, and billiards and darts are available. Located on the left rear of Mitsukoshi department store. edit

• Roppongi(六本木), Ichibanchō, 2-7-2, Rojji Bldg, ☎ 089-932-8576, [38]. 19:00-02:00. Roppongi, reopened by young married entrepreneurs, is a chic but comfortable bar with music catered to guests. Table charge is ¥300, draft beer is ¥500 and cocktails begin at ¥650. New favorites include chicken liver pâté, beef stroganoff, and the owner's best, Chocobanana Milk which uses Godiva whiskey. Located just off Ichibanchō Street, between the Iyotetsu Travel Agency and the Iyotetsu Taxi Hub. edit

• Sala Sol, 2-3-5 Sanbanchō, 3F, ☎ 090-7571-4386, [39]. 19:00-Late. And late really means late at this popular, seedy watering hole, where expats and natives have been known to drink and dance until daybreak. Friday is Ladies night – beers and cocktails are ¥300 from 19:00 to 21:00 – and Happy Hour is every evening, with ¥200 off. Nabe, who speaks Japanese British English, will be happy to spin your favorite song...unless a big football game is on. Walking south down Ōkaidō, exit left on the side street just before the Ōkaidō Movie Theatre and look to your left. edit

• Yamiichi Johnny(闇市ジョニー), 1-4-16 Nibanchō, ☎ 089-932-2107, [40]. 18:30-02:30, closed Sunday. If you’re in the mood for assorted cow and pig parts, this Kansai-style horumon semi-standing bar is right up your alley. Try the tongue for ¥800, a diaphragm for ¥850 or, their specialty, raw liver for ¥580 (warm it up yourself for an extra ¥20). Wash it all down with Mr. Ishii’s signature Johnny shōchū, a highball (¥500) or draft beer (¥380). edit

Matsuyama cheap and luxurious hotels, youth hostels & lodging

• Hotel Taihei(ホテル泰平), 3-1-15 Heiwadori(5 minutes NE by car from JR Station, 20 minutes by car from the airport), ☎ 089-943-5000(info@hoteltaihei.co.jp, fax: 089-932-2525), [41]. checkin: 14:00; checkout: 11:00. Located on the busy Heiwadori just behind the castle, this hotel offers banquet and meetings rooms, broadband, an observatory, open-air sauna and onsen (10th floor) and two buffet style restaurants. Online chart of availability. Single: ¥5,000; Double: ¥7,500; Triple: ¥13,700, Suite: ¥19,000.  edit

• Matsuyama City Hotel(松山シティホテル), 2-8 Otemachi(3 minutes E of JR Station, 10 minutes by car from the airport), ☎ 089-932-1121(matsuyama@the-cityhotel.com, fax: 089-932-3719), [42]. checkin: 15:00; checkout: 10:00. Also in the heart of Matsuyama, this smaller hotel boasts a cheaper breakfast, Japanese and Western restaurants, fitness room and a trouser press! Major credit cards accepted and there's an online chart of availability.Single 1: ¥6,300; Single 2: ¥7,500-11,550; Double: ¥15,550; Japanese: ¥6,900-18,900.  edit

• Matsuyama Youth Hostel, 22-3 Himesuka, Otsu, Dogo(8 minute walk up the hill from Dogo Onsen Station), ☎ 089-933-6366(info@matsuyama-yh.com, fax: 089-933-6378), [43]. Run by an eccentric but affable couple who will, among other things, provide courses on spoon-bending and scan your aura on demand. Expensive for what you get. A bit of a hike up a hill from the main part of town.¥3,200.  edit

Get out

• Mount Ishizuchi — the highest peak in western Japan.

• Tobe Zoo(とべ動物園), 240 Tobechō, Iyogun, ☎ 089-962-6000, [44]. 09:00-17:00, closed Monday, 12/29-1/1. Located south of Matsuyama, Tobe Dobutsuen is the destination for viewing over 190 species of animals, particularly "Peace" the polar bear. Though more spacious than its previous grounds and the silhouette animal footprints leading to the entrance are endearing, the zoo may leave much to be desired for those not used to Japanese zoological standards.Adult: ¥300, Child: ¥100.  edit

This page was last edited at 15:30, on 19 October 2008 by Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel. Based on work by P, Peter James, Jani Patokallio, Marc Heiden, Todd VerBeek, Ian Kirk and Peter Vine, Wikitravel user(s) PerryPlanet, Shoestring, Texugo and WindHorse, Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel and others.

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