Lyon

Lyon [1] is the second largest city in France, located in the Rhone-Alpes region, some 450 km south of Paris. Lyon is known as a gastronomic city with a vibrant cultural scene.

Culture and History

Founded by the Romans, with many preserved historical areas, Lyon is the archetype of the heritage city, as recognised by UNESCO. Long seen as a dull, grey city, partly due to urban planning errors such as building motorways right through the city centre, Lyon is now a vibrant city. Its location between Northern and Southern Europe is strategic; it is more and more open to the world, with an increasing number of students and international events.

Districts

Lyon is shaped by its two rivers, the Rhône and the Saône, which both run North-South. The main districts are, West to East:

• The Fourvière hill, also known as "the hill that prays" due to the numerous churches and religious institutions it hosts. The hill was also the place where the Romans settled.

• The Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon), the Renaissance area, along the right bank of the Saône.

• The Presqu'Ile, between the two rivers, is the real heart of the city.

• The Croix-Rousse hill, North of the Presqu'Ile between the two rivers, is known as "the hill that works" because it was home to the silk workers ("canuts") until the 19th century. This industry has shaped the unique architecture of the area.

• The left bank of the Rhone is a more residential area, with the notable exceptions of the business area of Part Dieu and industrial zones in the south.

History

Lyon has kept visible traces of all periods of its 2000-year history. The first Roman settlements were on Fourvière hill. In the Middle Ages, the city developed on both sides of the river Saône. The eastern bank of the Rhône was not urbanised before the 18th century, when the swamps (called Brotteaux) were dried out to allow construction. In the meantime, works conducted by Perrache doubled the area of the Presqu'Ile. The extension works were halted by the French revolution but started again in the early 19th century. In 1852, the neighbouring towns of Vaise, Croix-Rousse and Guillotière were made districts of Lyon. In the 1960s, the construction of the business district of Part Dieu began; its symbol is the 'pencil' tower, the highest building in Lyon. Meanwhile, the association "Renaissance du Vieux Lyon" managed to have the Old Lyon classified as a preserved landmark. In the 1980s and 1990s, a huge number of buildings in Vieux Lyon and Croix Rousse were refurbished. The landscape of Lyon is still evolving, notably with the new Rhône banks promenade.

Climate

Winters are moderately cold, with temperatures very rarely dropping under -5°C. Summers can be hot; temperatures around 35°C are not exceptional in July and August. The most pleasant times of year are probably May-June and September, with warm temperatures and little rain to expect.

Events

• The Festival of Lights (fête des lumières) is by far the most important event. It lasts 4 days around the 8th of December. It started with a traditional celebration dating back to 1852, when the Virgin Mary allegedly saved the city from the plague. The inhabitants then put candles at their windows as a sign of gratitude and dedicated to the Virgin the golden statue of the Fourvière basilica. In recent years, it turned into an international event, with light shows by professionals from all over the world. The traditional celebration, though, is still alive. This festival attracts around 4 million visitors each year.

• The Nuits de Fourvière festival: From June to August, the Roman theatres host various shows such as concerts (popular music, jazz, classical), dancing, theatre and cinema.

• The Biennals: Lyon alternatively hosts a dancing and a contemporary art biennals.

Smoking

As everywhere in France, smoking is prohibited in all closed public places, including bars, restaurants and night clubs.

Tourist information

• Main tourist office, Place Bellecour, 69002 Lyon (M: Bellecour). Located in the southeast corner of the square, this is the place to get all the information you need about local attractions, hotels, etc.

Travel to Lyon - Visa Requirements

Flights and airtickets to Lyon

Lyon's Saint-Exupéry Airport [2] (old name: Satolas), some 25 km east of Lyon, is linked to the main cities of France and the world. The Satobus [3] service will take you by bus from the airport to central Lyon in 30-50 minutes and cost around €8.60 (€6.50 if you are under 24). If returning, save yourself time by asking for a return at the Satobus desk in the airport (buy before you board). Taxis to Lyon from the airport cost around €75.

By train

Lyon has four train stations:

• Perrache — One of the two main stations of Lyon serving national and regional destinations. It is only a short walk to Place Bellecour along an interesting pedestrian shopping street (Rue Victor Hugo).

• Part-Dieu — The other main train station serving national and regional destinations. This station is close to a large shopping mall and is in the heart of Lyon's business center. It has good transportation links to the rest of the city by tram bus and metro.

• St. Paul is in the heart of the city, five minutes from hotel de ville over the Saone. Serves regional destinations.

• Saint-Exupéry (the station is outside the city and serves the airport).

Lyon is linked by TGV (fast trains) to Paris (Two hours) and Marseille (Two hours). Many other domestic destinations are served directly.

By car

Lyon is a major automotive hub for central and southern France:

• A6 to the north — Paris.
• A7 to the south — Marseille, Nice, Spain, Italy.
• A43 to the east — Grenoble, the Alps, Northern Italy.
• A47 to the west — Saint-Étienne, Clermont-Ferrand, Massif Central, west of France.
• A42 to the northeast — Bourg-en-Bresse, Geneva (Switzerland), Germany.

Tours and Getting around Lyon

On foot

The city centre is not so big and most attractions can be reached from each other on foot.

By bus, tram, subway or bicycle

Lyon's public transport, TCL [4], consists of an extensive network of buses, subway (four lines, 38 stations), and tramway (three lines, 62 stations). The metro is efficient, relatively inexpensive, and thus a way of easily moving around. A single ticket costs €1.60 (a common ticket for bus, metro, and tram, valid for one hour after first use, but no return), whereas a daily pass is for €4.40. Group tickets are also available, so contact the tourism office.

Lyon has also two cable-car lines. These are accessible from the Vieux Lyon metro station and provide access to the Roman theatres and Basilica respectively.

• Public transport maps can be found online simple map [5] or detailed map [6]. Or, you can get a free print version of the last one in any tcl office you find in the main stations. Just ask!

Since May 2005, Lyon also has a public bicycle service [7] which allows travellers, after registering a credit card, to pick up, and drop cycles to and from points around the city. You may need a credit card (Visa/MC/French CB) to make use of the service. The prices are very cheap: €1 for the "velo'v" card, then €1/hour of use, with the first half hour of each use free. Check that the bike you want is okay or you could have bad surprises. Note that the system only works with a European credit/debit card. Otherwise the transaction is aborted, no explanations given on the terminal. The terminals have very limited English and that makes it a rough start, but once you get to know the system its great. There are so many bikes that it can sometimes be a problem to return them.

By car

Traffic is dense and parking is either very difficult or quite expensive. Avoid driving within the city if you can.

The minimum age to rent a car is 21 and an additional charge may be required for drivers under 25 years old. There are car hire places at the major stations. Best to hire from Part-Dieu, as the subsequent navigation is much easier. For the city center, look for signs reading "Presqu'île".

Lyon tourist attractions and sightseeing

Vieux Lyon

After Venice, the Old Lyon is the largest Renaissance area in Europe. Its current organization, with narrow streets mainly parallel to the river Saône, dates back to the Middle Ages. The buildings were erected between the 15th and the 17th centuries, notably by wealthy Italian, Flemish and German merchants who settled in Lyon where 4 fairs were held each year. At that time, the buildings of Lyon were said to be the highest in Europe. The area was entirely refurbished in the 1980s and 1990s. It now offers the visitor colorful, narrow cobblestoned streets; there are some interesting craftmen's shops but also many tourist traps!

The area is generally crowded in the afternoon, especially at weekends. To really enjoy its architectural beauties, the best time is therefore in the morning (say, before 2PM).

• St Jean Cathedral, Place St Jean, 69005 Lyon(M: Vieux Lyon). The cathedral hosts an incredible astronomical clock. It is especially worth seeing when the bells ring, every day at 12PM, 2PM, 3PM and 4PM.Free admission.  

• Traboules, 69005 Lyon(M: Vieux Lyon). Closed at night. The "traboules" are a typical architectural feature of Lyon's historical buildings. They are corridors which link two streets through a building. Some of them have been beautifully refurbished and are open to the public. The most outstanding link the following addresses: 54 rue St Jean <> 27 rue du Boeuf (the longest in Lyon); 27 rue St Jean <> 56 rue des Trois Maries; 2 place du Gouvernement <> quai Romain Rolland. To open the doors, just press the service button next to the door code keyboard, as if you were the mailman. Don't forget that the buildings are inhabited, so please be quiet! Free.  

• Renaissance courtyards, 69005 Lyon(M: Vieux Lyon). Closed at night. Besides the buildings cited above, some have very beautiful courtyards but no real traboules (that is to say, no crossing from one street to another). The most notable are: Maison du Chamarier (37 rue St Jean) and the Maison du Crible (16 rue du Boeuf).Free.  

• Rue St Jean, 69005 Lyon(M: Vieux Lyon). This cobblestoned pedestrian street is the main axis of the area. It is full of souvenir shops and restaurants mainly intended for tourists. Local people are aware that real good 'bouchons' are extremely rare here! On a sunny Sunday afternoon, it may be hard to walk because of the crowd of both locals and tourists. 

• Rue du Boeuf, 69005(M: Vieux Lyon). Parallel to Rue St Jean, this street is much more quiet and just as beautiful. It also has a number of restaurants, more expensive than in Rue St Jean but, on average, much more worth the money. 

• Place du Change, 69005 Lyon(B: C3-Gare St Paul). The largest square in the area has two remarkable buildings. The Loge du Change was partially built by the great architect Soufflot. It was originally home to trade fairs. It was given to the Reformed church in the 19th century and is now a Protestant church. It can be visited on Saturdays. Religious services on Sundays, 10:30AM. Opposite is the Maison Thomassin, with its Gothic-style façade. Above the 2nd floor windows are the arms of France, Dauphiné (the neighbouring historical province) and Brittany. 

• Rue Juiverie, 69005 Lyon(B: C3-Gare St Paul). Another typical street of Vieux Lyon. Check out the courtyard at Hôtel Builloud (number 8). 

• St Paul's church, Rue St Paul, 69005 Lyon(B: C3-Gare St Paul). A very nice church, with mixed Roman and Gothic styles. The oldest parts are from the 10th century. 

• St Georges area, 69005 Lyon(M: Vieux Lyon). St Georges is the name given to the south part of the Vieux Lyon. It is a very picturesque and quiet area. You can take the Montée du Gourguillon to climb to the Roman theatres of Fourvière. 

Fourvière

Take the cable car up the hill from Vieux Lyon metro station.

• Fourvière basilica, Place de Fourvière, 69005 Lyon(F: Fourvière), ☎ 04 78 25 86 19. 10AM-5PM. Built in 1872, this massive church made of white marble has been compared to an elephant with its feet up. The Byzantine-style interior decoration is extremely exuberant. Next to the basilica is the belvedere, with the best view over the city. If the weather is clear, the Mont Blanc can be seen in the distance.Free admission.  

• Roman theatres. These two theatres are well preserved. The summer festival "Nuits de Fourvière" takes place here every year.Free.  

Croix-Rousse

• Amphithéâtre des Trois Gaules, Rue Lucien Sportisse, 69001 Lyon(M: Hôtel de Ville). This Roman theatre is the place where the first Christian martyrs were killed in Gaul. It can be seen from the street but is not open to the public for safety reasons. 

• Montée de la Grande Côte, 69001 Lyon(M: Hôtel de Ville/Croix-Rousse). This steep street has Renaissance buildings and offers a very beautiful view over the city from its top. 

• Croix-Rousse traboules:

• 7 rue Mottet-de-Gérando <> 8 rue Bodin
• 9 place Colbert <> 14 bis montée St Sébastien: the beautiful Cour des Voraces.
• 14 bis montée Saint-Sébastien <> 29 rue Imbert-Colomès
• 20 rue Imbert Colomès <> 55 rue Tables Claudiennes
• 30 bis rue Burdeau <> 17 rue René Leynaud (passage Thiaffait)
• 6 rue des Capucins <> 1 rue Sainte Marie des Terreaux
• 12 rue Sainte-Catherine <> 6 place des Terreaux

Landmarks

• Theatres Romains de Fourviere, a Roman theater complex beside the Musée de la Civilisation gallo-romaine.
• Tête d'Or Park, including zoo and botanical garden.
• Basilique de Fourvière (church) , nice view of the city.
• Tour de Fourvière.
• Place Bellecour — Europe's largest completely clear public square.
• Place des Terreaux.

Museums and Galleries

• Palais Saint-Pierre / Musée des Beaux Arts, 20 place des Terreaux, 69001 Lyon (M: Hôtel de Ville). Tel: 04 72 10 17 40, [8]. Open daily 10AM-6PM, except Tue and public holidays, Fri open 10:30AM-6PM, partial closures 12PM-2:15PM (see website for details), ticket office closes 5:30PM. Adult €6, reduced €4, under 18 and some others free, audioguide €3.

• Centre d'Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation (museum of the Resistance during the Second Wold War), 14 avenue Berthelot, 69007 Lyon (T: Centre Berthelot). Tel: 04 72 73 33 54, [9]. Open Wed-Sun 9AM-5:30PM. Closed on holidays. Often holds exhibitions (mostly photography). Adult €3. Free for children under 18.

• Musées des Arts Décoratifs and Musée des Tissus, 34 rue de la Charité, 69002 Lyon (M: Ampère Victor Hugo). Tel: 04 78 38 42 00, musees@lyon.cci.fr, [10]. Open Tue-Sun 10AM-12PM and 2PM-5:30PM. Closed on holidays. Adults: €4.58, groups (10 adults minimum) €3.81, students €2.29, free for children under 18.

• Musée historique de Lyon et Musée de la Marionnette (aka Musée Gadagne), 14 rue de Gadagne, 69005 Lyon (M: Vieux Lyon). Tel: 04 78 42 03 61, [11]. After years of major refurbishment works, this museum dedicated to the history of the city and to puppets (like the famous Guignol from Lyon) should reopen in May 2009.

• Institut Lumière, 25 rue du Premier Film, 69008 Lyon (M: Monplaisir-Lumière). Tel: 04 78 78 18 95, [12]. Open Tue-Sun 11AM-6:30PM. Closed Jan 1, May 1, and Dec 25. Open on bank holiday Mondays. Located in the Lumière brothers' house, this museum presents an interesting history of cinema through various items and film excerpts. Also worth seeing for the lovely architecture. Adult €6, under 18 and students €5.

• Musée d'Art contemporain (Museum of Contemporary Art). 81 quai Charles de Gaulle, Tel: 04 72 69 17 18, [13]. Holds only temporary exhibitions which are often very interesting and popular. Open Wed-Sun 12PM-7PM. Fees vary depending on the exhibition.

• Musée gallo-romain de Fourvière, 17 rue Cléberg, 69005 Lyon (F: Minimes-Théâtres Romains). Tel: 04 72 38 49 30, [14]. Open Tue-Sun 10AM-6PM, closed Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1 and Dec 25. The second largest museum in France, it has all kinds of things relating to Rhone-Alps history. A free visit to the Roman theatres may be just as interesting for those not into the details. Adult €4, reduced fee €2.50, under 18 and disabled free; free for all on Thursdays.

• Musée de l'Imprimerie, 13 rue de la Poulaillerie, 69002 Lyon (M: Cordeliers). Tel: 04 78 37 65 98, museeimp@lyon.asi.fr, [15]. Open Wed-Sun 9:30AM-12PM and 2PM-6PM. Closed on holidays. Visit it only if you're a printing specialist, the collection is important, but it is presented in a totally outdated way. To avoid. Adult €3.80, students in groups: €2.

Parks and Gardens

• Parc de la Tête d'Or (M: Masséna). This 110-hectare English-style garden is arguably one of the most beautiful urban parks in France. It is a popular place for families as well as joggers. The highlights of the park include the large greenhouses, the rose garden and the recently added "African plain" in which animals wander in a natural-style environment — perfect for children.

• Rhône banks and Gerland park (M: Foch, Guillotière, Stade de Gerland). The right bank of the river Rhône has recently been turned into a 5-km promenade with various landscapes and great views over the Croix-Rousse and Presqu'Ile areas. It leads to Gerland park, which is also very pleasant and far less crowded than the Tête d'Or park. Going there by bike is a very good idea.

• Parc des Hauteurs (F: Fourvière). Little known park tucked behind Fourvière close to the large tower. Contains aerial adventure course, ski slope, and fantastic views towards the Beaujolais.

Lyon city tours

• Get lost in the traboules. These intra-building passages link inner courtyards with the streets and are found mainly in "Vieux Lyon" (old Lyon) and on the Croix Rousse hill. They were first made for the use of the "canuts" (silk workers of the late 18th to mid 19th century) so that the pieces of fabric could be moved from workshop to workshop without being spoiled by rain. They also were used as hiding places during the German occupation by the resistance members. Certain traboules are not open to the public, because of security measures, but the city has made a point of keeping the most beautiful ones open during daytime hours.

• Visit the Old town (Vieux Lyon), which features well preserved medieval and renaissance buildings, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

• Go on a guided tour of the Croix-Rousse or Vieux Lyon. English speaking guides. Info from the tourist office at Bellcour

Learn

Lyon is an important university center. French language courses are available at Inflexyon [16], Alliance Francaise [17], Lyon-Bleu [18], Ecole Interculturelle de Francais [19]. If you look for an immersion program, you can have a look at ESL schools groups Learn French in Lyon with ESL [20].

Work

Money can be made by giving private English lessons. Most French are keen to speak English. There are some schools which accept non-TEFL qualified teachers, but obviously a qualification helps. Try Berlitz or Demos. There are several anglophone pubs which rely on student servers. Speaking French to a reasonable level is a must, even though bar vocabulary is limited. There is an ANPE next to the Opera on Rue de la Republique. Just go in, you don't have to book, and there are lots of job vacancies to be found. Also search for a shelf with black folders on it. They contain details of better paid jobs.

Lyon souvenirs and shopping

• La Part-Dieu is the biggest shopping mall in France.

• Rue de la République, wide pedestrian street north of Bellecour.

• Rue Victor Hugo, Brand names and tourist traps south of Bellecour.

• Rue du Président Edouard Herriot, Designer cloth north of Bellecour.

Food

• Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, 102 cours Lafayette, 69003 Lyon(B: C3-Halles Paul Bocuse, M/T: Part Dieu). Tue-Sat 7AM-12PM and 3PM-7PM, Sun 7AM-12PM. Formerly located on Place des Cordeliers, the Halles moved to the Part Dieu area in 1971. If you want the very best food, this is the place to go. It has a price however... 

• Croix-Rousse market, Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse, 69001 Lyon(M: Croix-Rousse). Tue-Sun 7AM-1PM. Very popular and typical market mith many local producers. On Tuesdays, also sells non-food items. Very crowded on sunny Sundays, but this is the right time to enjoy the particular mood of the area. 

• St Antoine market, Quai St Antoine and Quai des Célestins, 69002 Lyon(M: Cordeliers). Tue-Sun 7AM-1PM. The other major market, in a wealthier part of town. Also some local fruit and vegetable producers. Eating oysters by the Saône is a very pleasant occupation before Sunday lunch. 

Wine

• Antic Wine, 18 rue du Boeuf, 69005 Lyon(M: Vieux Lyon), ☎ 04 78 37 08 96(anticwine@yahoo.fr), [21]. Tue-Sun 11AM-8PM. This tiny shop has an exceptional selection of wines from all over the world. Very interesting selection of Rhône valley wines, amazing collection of old Burgundies. Very reasonable prices. Also a must-see for port amateurs, with the largest selection in France and prices ranging from €12 to €3,000. 

• Vercoquin, 33 rue de la Thibaudière, 69007 Lyon(M: Saxe-Gambetta), ☎ 04 78 69 43 87(contact@vercoquin.com), [22]. Tue-Sat 10AM-8PM, Sun 10AM-1PM. This wine store is specialised in organic and "natural" wines. It is also a wine bar, all bottles of the shop can be drunk there with a price supplement of €6. 

Lyon Restaurants: cheap, moderate and expensive

Restaurants have their menus with prices displayed outside. The region around Lyon is generally considered to have some of the best food in all of France. For vegetarians, though, the choice might be limited.

The traditional restaurants in Lyon are called bouchons. They serve the typical local dishes:

• salade lyonnaise (Lyon salad): green salad with bacon cubes, croutons and a poached egg;

• saucisson chaud: a hot, boiled sausage; can be cooked with red wine (saucisson beaujolais) or in a bun (saucisson brioché);

• quenelle de brochet: dumpling made of flour and egg with pike fish and a crayfish sauce (Nantua sauce);

• tablier de sapeur: fried tripes coated with breadcrumbs;

• andouillette: sausage made with chopped tripes;

• cervelle de canut (canut brain): fresh cheese with garlic and herbs.

These meals are very tasty and the portions are usually quite big. However, the quality is very variable since the bouchons are one of the main tourist attractions of the city. A good tip: never trust big signs reading "Véritable bouchon lyonnais" (genuine bouchon); ideally, the word bouchon should not appear at all on the restaurant's façade. Those who need to write it are tourist traps. And if someone on the street tries to get you into a restaurant, run! A good bouchon, however, offers very good value for money.

The locals are generally quite fond of eating out and the best places get known quickly by word of mouth. It is strongly advised to book a table, especially for dinner, otherwise you may end up in one of the multiple tourist traps.

Budget

• Chez Mounier — A traditional bouchon (restaurant) with good food for a very reasonable price (a complete menu for €10). Located on the south-east street of the Place Bellecour.

• Otherwise, kebab shops abound, most with the same price: €4.50 for a kebab, €5 for a kebab with frites. Look especially near Place des Terreaux (metro Hotel de Ville).

• El Loco Latino, 15 minutes across the Rhone from Hotel de Ville. Latino bar with low budget food. The day menu is €7.50 and the empanada is €4.

• Wallace Whisky Bar, five minutes across the Saone from Hotel de Ville. Mixture of French and British food. Fish 'n chips, bacon and egg, etc. Prices from €7.

Mid-range

• Chez Martial, 34 rue Saint Jean(M: Vieux Lyon), ☎ 04 78 38 31 75. Tiny bouchon, maybe the only acceptable one in a street full of tourist traps.Menu €19.  

• Le Bistrot de St-Paul - Has a Michelin "Bib gourmand" with good reason. Has 2 menus (20 and 31 euros) that a great value. Friendly service.

• Le Layon [23] — Excellent French cuisine, situated in the center of the old-town, with a great terrace. Typical price €15 — €25. The grenouilles are fantastic. Good wine list.

• Les Adrets, 30 rue du Boeuf, 69005 Lyon(M: Vieux Lyon), ☎ 04 78 38 24 30. Very good classic French cuisine, made from quality products, in a very nice decor. One of the best places in the area.Lunch from €13, dinner €23 to €38.  

• Brasserie Georges, 30, cours de Verdun(Located behind Perarache Station), ☎ +33 (0)4 72565456, [24]. An exceptional traditional Brasserie, serving traditional food with an Alsatian leaning in a fine interior. A real Art Deco treat. Founded in 1836, with a tradition of high quality service. It also contains a brewery and bar and the interior is worth a look even if you don't want to eat.from €25 to 35.  

• Le Resto, 20, rue Mulet(Just off rue de la Republique). Very nice little restaurant with great Lyon food and very lovely decor. Very Reasonable wine prices as well. 

• Bouchon Chez Paul, 11 rue du Major Martin, 69001 Lyon(M: Hôtel de Ville), ☎ 04 78 28 35 83(restaurantchezpaul@voila.fr), [25]. Closed Sun, Mon (lunch). A very good bouchon serving huge portions. Noisy and friendly.Full menu €25.  

• L'Art et la Manière, 102 Grande rue de la Guillotière, 69007 Lyon(M: Saxe-Gambetta), ☎ 04 37 27 05 83, [26]. Closed Sat, Sun, Mon dinner. Small no-tourist restaurant in a no-tourist area. Short menu but very creative, high-quality cooking. Good wine list at reasonable prices.Lunch from €16, dinner €26/33.  

Splurge

• Le Nord — One of Paul Bocuse's four brasseries in Lyon, located in the 9eme arrondisement, near the shores of the Saone river. Exquisite meals from €35 onwards.

• La Mère Brazier — Mathieu Viannay, 12 rue Royale, 69001 Lyon(M: Hôtel de Ville), ☎ 04 78 23 17 20, [27]. A local legend, recently taken over by a talented young chef and awarded 2 stars by the Michelin guide only a few months after its opening. Revisited all-time classics (Bresse poultry with truffles, artichokes with foie gras).Lunch menu €35, dinner menus €55/75/95.  

• L'Auberge de l'Ile, Place Notre-Dame, île Barbe, 69009 Lyon(B: 43/31-Ile Barbe), [28]. One of the best places in Lyon, in a 17th century building on a lovely island on the Saône.Menus €95/125.  

• Paul Bocuse(Auberge du Pont de Collonges), 40 rue de la Plage, 69660 Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or, ☎ 04 72 42 90 90, [29]. The master of all chefs. Taste the legend of "Monsieur Paul", who is over 80 years old and still runs this palace restaurant... and many others!From €100.  

Lyon nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs

Lyon offers some nice nightlife. A good starting point is Place des Terreaux and then upwards towards the Croix Rousse. In the streets that climb the hill there are many nice places.

• Albion, 12 rue Sainte Catherine (Place Terreau), [30]. Beer, whiskey and rock. "The best pub quiz in Lyon" - Special Music Quiz once a month.

• Becs de Jazz — Nice jazz club open during the weekend until 1AM, with live jazz and great atmosphere.

• Phoebus, 22 rue Pouteau. Pub with nice live music (African, reggae).

• L'Abreuvoir, rue de st catherine, just above Terreaux. There you can join some crazy French listening to crazy French music. Definitively an experience, though not everyone's cup of tea.

• El Loco Latino, 32, rue Pasteur, next to the Guillotière metro station. A small, but lively Latin bar, open daily until 1AM.

• Johnny Walsh's, near the Saint Georges Church. Nice, authentic Irish pub with good music and some live performances.

• The New Albion, Rue St. Catherine. Scottish pub. Student friendly. Live music most weekends.

• Wallace, Place Saint Paul. Cool whiskey bar with a wide range of drinks.

• St. James and The Smoking Dog near the Place Saint Paul.

• L'Amsterdam, 21 Quai Romain Rolland, nice dutch pub.

• Le Perroquet Bourré (The Drunk Parrot), 18 Rue Saint Catherine. Cheap rum, the inside is decorated as a pirate ship.

At the quai Albert Augagneur is another centre of Lyon nightlife. Along the Rhone river are several out of duty riverboats (péniches) that serve as nightclubs or bars.

• Sirius, 21 quai Augagneur. Live events almost every day of the week. The weekends party on two levels. Nice.

• Q-Boat, 21 Quai Augagneur. Another boat, here the hype crowd will feel at home.

• Marquise [31], Quai Augagneur. Here you get nice alternative hip-hop, retro soul, etc. Sometimes theatre performances.

• River Side, 5 rue St Paul. This is one of the rare places where they play rock music in Lyon. Admission after midnight. Only open on weekends and before holidays.

Lyon cheap and luxurious hotels, youth hostels and lodging

Budget

• Hotel Vaubecour, 28 rue Vaubecour (2nd arrondissement), ☎ 04 78 37 44 91, [32]. A very simple, but clean and friendly hotel with large rooms and two beds, TV, and washstand. Near Perrache train station and close to just about everything.Under €30.  

• Auberge de Jeunesse de Vieux Lyon(youth hostel). Belongs to YHA (international youth hostels association). Bunk bed in a dorm, plus breakfast for €15 (plus fee, if not member of YHA). Take the metro to Vieux Lyon station then the funicular to Place des Minimes (otherwise a serious hike up a steep hill). Excellent views over city. Tiny kitchen, extremely limited rooms for couples/families. Keeps with the Catholic 1900s tradition of no gender-mixed rooms. No telephone bookings. 

• Hotel Les Carres Pegase, 31 Rue Chevreul, 04 72 72 08 36. Totally worn down business appart-hotel, in serious need of modernisation - but apart from that with clean sheets and friendly service. Small duplex for four people as low as 60 euro through hostelbookers. But be aware that you get what you pay for. The views for 7th floor is good.

Mid-range

• Hotel Victoria, 3, rue Delandine, Lyon 69002(Behind Perrache Station opposite Brasserie George), ☎ 04.78.37.57.61(contact@hotelvictorialyon.com, fax: 04.78.42.91.07), [33]. This place is unpretentious and satisfactory. Reasonable value accommodation in a handy location with a friendly welcome. €45-55.  

Splurge

• Hotel Sofitel Lyon Bellecour, 20, quai Gailleton (2nd arrondissement), (+33)4 72412020, [34]. Luxury hotel close to the famous Place Bellecour. Large number of meeting rooms for conventions.

Contact

Most cyber cafes and call shops are in the district of Guillotière, because of the large population of immigrants living there. You will also find cyber cafes in the center.

Stay safe

Real security problems in the Lyon center are rare, but as in any big city, be on your guard. Pay attention to your surroundings, try not to go out at night alone, etc.

Get out

• The car museum of Rochetaillée has a very nice collection of modern and old cars. The main attraction of the museum is the armored car of Adolf Hitler. Château Rochetaillée, 69270 Rochetaillée-sur-Saône, Tel: 04 78 22 18 80, Fax: 04 78 22 69 60. Open 9AM-7PM daily (EXCEPT Monday) in July and August, 9AM-6PM the rest of the year. Closed on Christmas and New Year. Fees: Adults €5, free for children under 18.
• Perouges is a small village 30 minutes outside of Lyon. Its buildings all date to the middle ages and it's a popular weekend destination for people who live in Lyon.
• The bird park of Villars-les-Dombes.
• Vienne and its international jazz festival.
• The Swiss border and the city of Geneva are just over two hours away by train.
• Annecy, the Venice de Savoie is about 2 hours away a and makes a nice daytrip.

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