Langkawi
Table of Contents: Culture and History / Travel to Langkawi, visa requirements Flights to Langkawi, airtickets By boat / Get around / City tours / Shopping, Langkawi souvenirs / Good restaurants and cheap meals / Budget / Mid-range / Splurge / Langkawi nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs. / Hotels, youth hostels, lodging / Budget 2 / Mid-range 2 / Splurge 2 / Contact / Telephone / Post / Internet / Stay healthy / Stay safe More from Kedah: Bukit Kayu Hitam, Langkawi More from West Coast (Malaysia): Kedah, Kuala Lumpur, Malacca (state), Negeri Sembilan, Penang, Perak, Perlis, Putrajaya, Selangor More from Peninsular Malaysia: East Coast (Malaysia), Johor, West Coast (Malaysia) More from Malaysia: East Malaysia, Peninsular Malaysia More from Southeast Asia: Borneo, Brunei, Cambodia, East Timor, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, One month of Southeast Asian diving and culture, Paracel Islands, Philippines, Singapore, Spratly Islands, Thailand, Vietnam More from Asia: Caucasus, Central Asia, East Asia, Middle East, Southeast Asia |
Langkawi is an archipelago of 99 islands in the Andaman Sea, 30km off the mainland coast of northwestern Peninsular Malaysia. The islands are a part of Malaysia's Kedah state, but are adjacent to the Thai border. By far the largest of the islands is the eponymous Pulau Langkawi (Langkawi Island) with a population of some 45,000, the only other inhabited island being nearby Pulau Tuba.
Understand
The name "Langkawi" is believed to be related to the kingdom of Langkasuka, itself a version of the Malay negari alang-kah suka ("the land of all one's wishes"), centered in modern-day Kedah. The historical record is sparse, but a Chinese Liang Dynasty record (c. 500 AD) refers to the kingdom of "Langgasu" as being founded in the 1st century AD.
Langkawi eventually came under the influence of the Sultanate of Kedah, but Kedah was conquered in 1821 by Siam and Langkawi along with it. The Anglo-Siamese Treaty of 1909 transferred power to the British, which held the state until independence, except for a brief period of Thai rule under the Japanese occupation of Malaya during World War II. Thai influences remain visible in the culture and food of Langkawi.
Langkawi remained a sleepy backwater until 1987, when the island was granted tax-free status with the intention of promoting tourism and improve the lives of the islanders. The following boom was spectacular and now Langkawi figures on most every European travel agency's radar.
Sheltered by the mountainous backbone of Peninsular Malaysia, Langkawi escapes the northeastern winter monsoon entirely and enjoys sunny skies in winter when the eastern provinces are flooded. Coupled with natural white sand beaches, lush jungle foliage and craggy mountain peaks - but hampered by inaccessibility - the island was at one time touted as "Malaysia's best-kept secret".
Langkawi, its formation was intricately associated with myths and legends. The two most prominent mountains in Langkawi Gunung Machinchang (Mat Cincang Mountain Range) and Gunung Raya (Mat Raya Mountain) tell the tale of the fight between families of giants.
The story tells the tale of a wedding - with Mat Raya's son wanting to marry Mat Cincang's daughter. During the wedding feast, a fight broke out between the two wedding parties. Pots and pans were flung at each other. Some said, the fight started when the son caught flirting with another woman.
Followed after the fight, a series of strange name fall on Langkawi. A large pot of gravy (kuah) was broken and the contents flowed onto the ground. Where the gravy spilt, became know as Kuah (the largest town on Langkawi island) and where the crockery (belanga) was broken (pecah) was location of the village Kampung Belanga Pecah (belaga pecah means broken crockery). The gravy seep in (kisap) through the land at the village named Kisap.
Get in
By plane
Langkawi International Airport (IATA: LGK | ICAO: WMKL) has direct connections to Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and Bangkok, plus some long-haul international flights in the high season. The modern terminal building provides basic facilities including ATMs, money exchange, and a range of transport services.
Most flights are with one of three airlines:
- AirAsia operates 5 flights daily from/to Kuala Lumpur and 3 flights per week (Tue-Thu-Sat) from/to Bangkok. Excellent for both domestic and international flights.
- Malaysia Airlines fly several times a day from/to Penang and Kuala Lumpur. They are not the cheapest, but prices are still normally reasonable. Direct flights to London have been terminated.
- Silk Air fly from/to Singapore twice daily. This is a short-haul, lower service version of Singapore Airlines. The prices are reasonable.
- Firefly newly launched airline which flies from/to Penang twice daily. This is a short-haul, lower service version of Malaysia Airlines. The prices starts from RM9 (excluding tax)
By boat
From Malaysia
- But many still prefer the more adventurous crossing by fast air-conditioned boats from Kuala Perlis or Kuala Kedah on the mainland. Some even take the special ferry services from Penang Island. The usual jump-off points are from Kuala Perlis and Kuala Kedah. The one-way fare from Kuala Kedah is RM15. Recently, the operators had wanted to increase the ticket price but the plan was met with stiff opposition from the public. Even if there is an increase, it would be quite minimal. Ferries also operate to Penang.
- From Penang to Langkawi - Ferry trips average 3 hours each way. From Penang, 8.15 am and 8.30 am ferry trips but ask if the ferry stops at Pulau Payar to pick/drop passengers. Avoid the Pulau Payar one as it saves about 15-20 mins. From Langkawi, the ferry trips to Penang are at 2.30pm and 5.30pm. Price for return trip (you can have an open booking for the trip back - confirm while you are on Langkawi island later) is RM85 per person. You can park your car at the parking space in front of the Penang Clock Tower for RM10 for the 1st day and RM5 for subsequent days. It is safe to do so - guarded at night by the Chinese who take the parking fee from you.
From Southern Thailand
- Four ferries daily between Satun and Kuah. Operated by Langkawi Ferry Services, Tel: +60-4-9661125/9661126 in Langkawi; +6674-730513 in Satun.
Get around
Public transport on Langkawi is limited, so you usually need to call a cab or rent a car, motorbike or bicycle - all are readily available. If driving yourself, watch your fuel indicator: gas stations are few and far between.
Do
Activities in Langkawi include:
- Mangrove Cruise, [1].
- Birdwatching, with over 200 species of birds to spot.
- See the island from a bird's eye
- Walk above the clouds
- Feed the sharks
- Scuba diving and snorkeling on the islands south of Langkawi
- Cable Car. The cable car is definitely the best tourist destination on Langkawi. The view from the top is amazing, walking across the suspension bridge is scary but great fun.
Buy
Langkawi is a tax-free zone, so normally cheap Malaysian shopping is even cheaper.Hotel tariffs and retail goods are exempt from government duty. Visitors with more than 72 hours stay in Langkawi are exempt on items like wines and liquor (1 liter), tobacco (200 cigarettes), apparel, cosmetics, souvenirs and gifts, food and food preparations and portable electronic items (one item). Video cassettes require clearance from customs.
Shop around before buying: the airport is probably the most expensive place to buy anything. Shop in Kuah town for batik, tobacco products and chocolate confectioneries.
- Kuah Town night market. The local market is held once per week. Walk through the market to enjoy the sights, smells and tastes. Well worth a visit.
Eat
Practically all resorts have their own restaurants and most tourists choose to eat in, but there are a few other options as well. Be adventurous and strike out on your own to savour the numerous foods at the stalls and restaurants all over Langkawi. Try one of the many seafood restaurants. Having said that, beware of certain restaurants advertised in the brochures targeting tourists. An example of such restaurant is the 'Coco Beach Restaurant', close to the airport.
If you choose lobsters or crabs in a seafood restaurant, take note if the price is by weight or by a set price for the dish. The unwary can be hit with a much larger bill than expected. Also, beware of staffs fooling you that they only have the bigger size lobsters available when you ask for a smaller one, as that is what they tell everyone (a common practice at Coco Beach Restaurant). When your lobster or crab is served, you will discover that you will definitely be paying for 900g of shell instead of meat!
Budget
For a taste of simple Malay-style breakfast, just walk up to a small stall opposite the Underwater World in the mornings and feast on the famous freshly-prepared banana leaf-wrapped nasi lemak (steamed rice in coconut milk). The price is most affordable at less than RM 2 for a pack. Go local and enjoy this with a glass of hot teh tarik or really good local coffee. This very unassuming stall is just simple and great (clean too!) The nasi lemak comes with curried beef, squid in chili, friend salted fish or chicken.
- Restoran Fatimah near the Kampung Tok Senik Resort on the road to Ulu Melaka. Try this for really authentic Malay food. Their lunch spread is amazing - so amazing that they attract bus loads of Malaysian visitors. If you are bent on trying things local this is the place. Just enjoy the food and leave your cultural baggage and complaints behind as you will be in a totally different ambiance but friendly, nevertheless.
- Rafi's Place is a rustic shack sandwiched between Restoran Aliah's and Tomato Nasi Kandar on Pantai Cenang. No visible signboard either but ask around and you will find Rafi's. Locals come here for the nasi lemak (RM3) and the local tea and coffee (RM1) which are good by the way. Rafi is a Penangite but has been on the island since 1988 so he considers himself very much local. Ask him for recommendations and he'll happily tell you. Ample parking space in front of his 'shack'. Good ambience especially early mornings.
- AddaMaya Café on Pantai Cenang (near Haji Ramli's; or opposite Nadia's Comfort Inn) is a small, cosy place for meals and coffee. The chef can whip up great meals - from local dishes to western fast food easily (and in that little cabin of his). Problem is, it can get a bit dusty as it is located fronting the main road. Locals like to come here for good food at reasonable prices.
Mid-range
- Breakfast Station, Pantai Cenang. Great Balinese decor, rustic with cozy ambience. Fantastic Lavazza Coffee for RM4 and fantastic Nasi Lemak. The Western spread is a pleasant suprise. Best omelette in town. Lunch starts at 12 pm, which also means the end of the breakfast menu. A couple of minutes walk from Restoran Haji Ramli.
- Beach Garden Resort's Beer Garden Pantai Cenang [2] offers 1st class Western & Malay dishes in a stylish holiday - beach atmosphere. Superb wine selection, draft beer and German wheat beer (own import) as well as cocktails.
- Champor Champur, Pantai Cenang. Moderately wacky fusion food in a fusion setting courtesy of a Dutch-Malaysian couple with an affinity for Africa.
- Fat Mum Restaurant, Pantai Tengah, Tel : 012-4707863. Just up the road from Awana Resort. Great authentic local Chinese seafood restaurant, and at a reasonable price.
- Fook Look Chinese Restaurant, at the Oriental Village. Your dinner comes with a free Chinese theatre performance!
- Hole in the Wall Fishfarm & Restaurant, Kilim River. Usually it is not a big deal to go out for a good meal but in this case only insiders will find the way to Rahmad's floating restaurant & fish farm. The Hole in the Wall is a unique spot where you can combine a pleasant seafood lunch or dinner with nature & lifestyle. They serve the freshest Malay style seafood you will be able to eat on Langkawi island. The traditional dishes of freshly caught fish, prawns, crab, lobster etc. are famous. Enjoy Lunch or Dinner in the green environment of the mangroves. Sailing yachts parked around the place give a very special ambience. Animal lovers can feed the resident stingray and other exotic fish. There are plenty of fantastic restaurants in Langkawi but none of them is floating on river. This stream is not like most people know rivers. It is part of the amazing scenery of the Kilim Mangrove Forest and its surrounding is so impressive that it is hard to describe only with words. After your meal you might have one, two or even more drinks at the floating bar. Apart from soft drinks,beer, wine and mixed drinks are served. Shuttle service from Kilim jetty to the fishfarm restaurant and return is free of charge for lunch and dinner guests. In case you arrive with dinghy or kayak, the restaurant provides free parking.
- Restoran Haji Ramli, Pantai Cenang. Your Nasi Campur haunt by day and run-of-the-mill Tom Yam shack by night. 'Ikan Bakar' - Grilled fish and other fresh seafood a'la carte after 3 pm. Fresh terubuk (shad) which is unheard off in the mainland! Grab a couple of fist-sized prawns and cuttlefish (squid) cooked Tom Yam style for a gastronomical lesson in local seafood. Opens till 1 am.
- Matahari/Sun Village, Pantai Tengah. Offers good but not necessarily authentic Malay food in an atmospheric garden full of lush greenery, water features and exotic art.
- Oasis (Pantai Tengah/Cenang) is a great beach hangout serving western meals and drinks. It comes alive in the evenings. Come shoeless as the feel of the soft powdery sand is, oh so, good...
- Red Tomato Splash, Right on the Pantai Cenang beach behind Tomato Nasi Kandar. Has great Western breakfast and lunch menus, and pasta and pizza for dinner. Beach patio setting is very relaxed - bring your own beer or wine.
- Tulsi Garden at Pantai Tengah. Good Indian food (northern and southern). You may even get to talk to the owner, Palani on some nights. Quiet place to have dinner and chat with friends. Best part is you can ask the chef to tone down the chili or spiciness levels.
Splurge
- Mare Blu at Perdana Quay, Telaga Harbour Park (Pantai Kok) is the only authentic Italian restaurant on Langkawi island. Lorenzo, Partner & chef offers typical Italian food, good wines and draft beer. The Mediterranean style surrounding is just beautiful and the tables are set up right on the waterfront. The Telaga Harbour Park is near the Hotels Mutiara Burau Bay, Berjaya, Sheraton Beach and Tanjung Sanctuary, The Datai & Andaman.
- The Loaf at Perdana Quay, Telaga Harbour Park (Pantai Kok) is a Japanese-style bakery & bistro opened in August 2006 and owned by Tun Dr Mahathir Mohamed, ex-Prime Minister of Malaysia. Quality breads and full meals daily except Thursday. Open from 8am to 11pm. Amazing view of the harbour and the yachts especially if you have your breakfast al-fresco outside. Attentive staff. Bread prices starts from RM4 while beverages average RM8. Try Tun's Favourite Breakfast set (2 softboiled eggs, a bowl of mutton curry and thick toasted bread) with coffee and orange juice. Good place to have a leisurely breakfast.
An excellent place to eat is The Light House fantastic food on the beach wonderful view’s (it is a must if you are on the island)
Drink
Thanks to the island's tax-free status, alcohol is remarkably cheap at eg. RM 1.50 for a beer can, less than a third of the RM 5 (and up) on the mainland. Although alcoholic drinks come cheap please be advised that Malaysia is a Muslim country (a liberal and tolerant one at that) but all the same please respect local culture and communal sensitivities. Malays and Muslims do not consume alcoholic drinks and while they do tolerate non Muslims who do, try not to behave in a rowdy imbibed manner near them, their houses, mosques, etc.
- SunBa. Pantai Tengah - part of the 'Sun'chain (along with Sun Village, Sun Karma etc) is a really good bar open till 3am.
Sleep
Budget
Budget accommodation is mainly concentrated at and immediately around Pantai Cenang.
- AB Motel is one of the many budget hotels at Pantai Cenang. Charges can be from 90RM for a beach side room to 60 RM with one on the other side of the road but with a balcony and 50 RM for a room without one.
Mid-range
- Awana Porto Malai[3] - a charming holiday resort destination. Rates from RM145.
- Beach Garden Resort [4], a small, German managed insider resort right on the beach of Langkawi's Pantai Chenang. Short ways, clean rooms, small pool, ice cold draft beer and imported German beer. One of the best reataurants on the island. Cosy athmosphare.
- Best Star Beach Resort, on Pantai Cenang. Clean, comfortable and friendly. It is located just next to the AB Motel, which is best avoided.
- Eaglebay Hotel Langkawi, tel. 604-966 8585/6019-4499 880, facing the biggest park and the longest beach in town. 15 minutes walking distance from Kuah Jetty.
- Federal Villa, further up Pantai Cenang just at the end of Pantai Tengah. Part of the Holiday Villa Resort. Pleasantly priced beginning at about RM180 or so it is a brick and mortar complex.
- Kampung Tok Senik Resort, located along the road to Ulu Melaka. For a great rustic and rural ambiance try this full-fledged resort with a difference. No beaches here but a truly green surrounding.
- Langkasuka Beach Resort, Kuala Muda. The closest resort to the airport and sister to the Helang Hotel, this 215-room property has its own private beach. Rates start from as low as RM109 nett on promotional packages.
- Sandy Beach Resort, Pantai Cenang. Has been there for quite sometime. Rather sprawling... straddling both sides of the Pantai Cenang road. The beach-facing rooms are most popular. The regular beachside barbeque is great.
- Sunset Beach Resort, [5] on Pantai Tengah/Pantai Cenang. This is indeed a great place where you will find solitude and that much sought after quiet as the place is tucked within a narrow niche away from the bustle of the Cenang thoroughfare.
- Tropical Resort on Pantai Tengah, opposite Sun Café. Quiet and clean chalets which go for RM80 a night. Owned by Musa and his German wife, Laila. Rooms come with fan, aircond, attached bathroom (hot and cold shower) and two single beds and TV. You can walk right down to the beach as the chalets are but a minute's walk away. Convenience shops, Malay style eateries, car rentals, stylish cafés, spa and all the amenities you need are just a walk away. Long term stays at discounted rates are available. Tel:604-955 4075
Splurge
- Berjaya Beach & Spa Resort, tel.+60-4-959 1888, [6] is the biggest on the island, with 502 rooms and suites. The hotel is located on Pantai Kok, just next door to the Mutiara Burau Bay. There are seven F&B outlets including the newly-opened Mizumi Japanese Restaurant. Myriad of facilities for family holiday. Beach football, kiddie pools, donkey ride, watersports, etc. 5 minutes walk to the Cable Car station at the Oriental Village. A bit far (40 mins) from Kuah town.
- Four Seasons Resort [7] is the quintessential opposite of the Tanjung Rhu - its philosophy is of the school of thought of "If I'm here, I'm here", and thus makes no attempts to blend into the rainforest that it's located in. It's very luxurious, but many feel it lacks the tranquility and elegance of the aforementioned hotels.
- Meritus Pelangi Beach Resort & Spa [8] is one of the first 5-star resorts to open in Langkawi, way back in 1988. Recently rebranded as a Meritus, the resort's 350 rooms are spread over 51 clusters of elegant wooden chalets offering pool, sea or lake views. The Meritus offers seven F&B outlets including two pool bars and the excellent Niyom Thai Restaurant.
- Rebak Island Resort - A Taj Hotel [9] on privately-owned Rebak Besar Island is a 5-star resort managed by India's Taj Group. It consists of clusters of timber chalets and is a 15-minute ride from Port Langkasuka jetty.
- Sheraton Langkawi [10] and Westin Resort & Spa [11] are the two Starwood properties on Langkawi. The larger Sheraton Langkawi is next to the Berjaya Resort and located on Pantai Kok in the North-West. The more luxurious Westin, formerly the Sheraton Perdana, is a 3km drive from Kuah town and has 200 recently-renovated rooms.
- Tanjung Rhu Resort [12] is a luxurious resort on what most people consider to be the best beach on the island. It is a very high quality hotel with all the "little details" that make a resort truly 5 star present and correct. It has been built to minimize any environmental damage and to blend in well with its surroundings. The facilities are stunning (60 metre pool, abundant gardens, restaurants, etc.) and very well maintained. Very expensive, although slightly less so than the Andaman and the Datai.
- The Datai [13] and The Andaman [14] are top flight resort hotels. Located on the island's north coast, these are among the best tropical island getaways in the world (the Datai has been rated one of the world's best hotels by Conde Nast Traveller) and are popular among honeymooners and jet-setting celebrities. Unfortunately they are also priced to match: list prices start around RM1000 a night during the off seasons and climb into the stratosphere.
Note for Malaysians: The Datai has been running the 'Rainforest Promotion' for a couple of years now, and Malaysians get a special rate during the specified timeframe. Do check it out- it's amazing value for truely one of the best resorts in the world.
- Bon Ton [15] is a lovely collection of relocated traditional and historal kampung houses from around Malaysia. The restaurant's really good too. Go try it out for a totally different living experience. Watch out for the mosquitoes, though.
Contact
Telephone
Post
- Mini Post Offices can be found in Padang Mat Sirat and in the Padi Complex in Pantai Cenang. Main Post Office in Kuah Town.
Internet
Broadband is available and many Internet cafés can be found along Pantai Tengah, Pantai Cenang and Kuah.
Stay healthy
Like in every tropical climate, Langkawi has tons of mosquitoes waiting to feast on you. Bring LOTS of mosquitoe repellent, and whatever bite cream you prefer.
Stay safe
It is safe on Langkawi. You don't even have to lock your car because it cannot get off the island without customs knowing about it! That said, you still need to be careful.
Be careful driving around Langkawi at night- the roads are not very well lit and most pass through Kampungs (traditional Malay villages) where the natives do live and seem to take a very casual approach to road safety. Drive slow and watch out for randomly piloted motorbikes, pedestrians and livestock.
More from Kedah: Bukit Kayu Hitam, Langkawi More from West Coast (Malaysia): Kedah, Kuala Lumpur, Malacca (state), Negeri Sembilan, Penang, Perak, Perlis, Putrajaya, Selangor More from Peninsular Malaysia: East Coast (Malaysia), Johor, West Coast (Malaysia) More from Malaysia: East Malaysia, Peninsular Malaysia More from Southeast Asia: Borneo, Brunei, Cambodia, East Timor, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, One month of Southeast Asian diving and culture, Paracel Islands, Philippines, Singapore, Spratly Islands, Thailand, Vietnam More from Asia: Caucasus, Central Asia, East Asia, Middle East, Southeast Asia |
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