La Paz (Bolivia)

La Paz is the administrative capital of Bolivia, while Sucre is the constitutional capital (the seat of the Supreme Court (Corte Suprema de Justicia)). La Paz was established in 1542, and is located in the Andes mountains. Altitude of the city ranges from about 3900 meters (12,795 feet) above sea level (where the airport is located) to 3100 meters (10,170 feet) in the lower residential area; that makes it the highest national capital in the world.

The sight from the air as one flies into La Paz is incredible. First, one sees the sprawling shantytowns of El Alto, slowly giving way to the sight of La Paz itself, clinging tenuously to the sides of what looks like a large gash in the earth.

Culture and History

Orientation

La Paz was built in a canyon created by the Choqueyapu River (now mostly built over), which runs northwest to southeast. The city's main thoroughfare, which roughly follows the river, changes names over its length, but the central tree-lined section running through the downtown core is called the Prado.

La Paz' geography (in particular, altitude) reflects society: the lower you go, the more affluent. While many middle-class Pacenos live in high-rise condos near the center, the really rich houses are in the neighborhoods southwest of the Prado. And looking up from the center, the surrounding hills are plastered with makeshift brick houses of those struggling in the hope of one day reaching the bottom.

The satellite city of El Alto, in which the airport is located, is spread over a broad area to the west of the canyon, on the altiplano.

Travel to La_Paz_(Bolivia), visa requirements

By air

El Alto airport is the world's highest international airport; at approximately 4,000 meters above sea level, it's almost half as high as a jetliner's cruising altitude, and takeoffs take a bit longer due to the thin air. There is an airport departure tax of $28 for international flights, Bs15 for domestic flights.

Most South American airlines ( TAM, Lan Chile, TACA etc.) serve El Alto Airport as well as LAB and Aerosur, Bolivia's national airlines. Most international flights will make a stop over in Santa Cruz to pick up or drop off passengers. American Airlines is currently the only U.S. carrier serving Bolivia, with one daily flight to Miami.

LAB and Aerosur (a newer, private airline) also serve major domestic destinations

From the airport, the official rate for a taxi into central La Paz is Bs 50 (about 6 USD). Shared vans cost about Bs 4 (0,50 USD).

Buses to La_Paz_(Bolivia)

The main bus terminal is located on Av. Ismael Montes, near the upper end of the Prado. Note that buses arriving from Lake Titicaca (the route for entering overland from Puno, Peru) terminate at a plaza near the city cemetery (Cementerio) farther to the west.

Buses leaving La Paz usually stop in El Alto to pick up more passengers. It sometimes takes almost an hour until you really leave the city.

Seven or eight hours by bus from Cochabamba.

Get around

Buses to La_Paz_(Bolivia)

There are three types of shared public transportation in La Paz: regular buses or "micros"; shared vans, called "mini buses", and shared taxis running set routes advertised on the windshield, called "trufis". The former cost Bs 1,30 while the second are Bs 1,50-2,30 depending on duration. A trufi will generally cost you Bs 3. All types have their routes indicated on the windshield, but mini buses have the bonus of fare collectors hanging out the side, yelling out routes in a rapid, auctioneer-like manner. You can hail a bus or mini bus anywhere; to get off, just yell out "¡voy a bajar!"

By taxi

The easiest way to get around is by taxi. They aren't metered, so agree on a fare before boarding; a ride within downtown should be about Bs 5-6. If you want to go further, ask two or more taxi drivers before boarding. A normal ride by taxi from downtown to a place within the city won't cost more than 20 Bs.

By foot

If you ever find yourself to be lost, in general the easiest thing is to simply walk downhill. You will eventually find yourself on the Prado or another main avenue, then You'll be able to take a taxi to the downtown, if you are on the southside of the city (Zona sur)

La_Paz_(Bolivia) attractions and sightseeing

• Sagarnaga Street, just south of Plaza San Francisco, is La Paz' main tourist strip. It's mainly a market street with artesano and souvenir stores, but you'll also find budget hostels, tour and travel agencies, cafes, and lots and lots of backpackers. Don't be suckered by the roving sellers of "trilobite-in-a-rock".
• The Witches' Market (Mercado de Hechiceria or Mercado de las Brujas) is on Calle Linares between Sagarnaga and Santa Cruz. Vendors sell llama fetuses and dried frogs for Aymara rituals, as well as soapstone figurines and aphrodisiac formulas. This street is also the best place to pick up a charango or other Bolivian musical instrument.
• The Mercado Negro ("Black Market"), though not very clandestine, is quite comprehensive, selling clothing, household items, liquor, and other products in its many blocks.
• Eloy Salmon Shops on this street sell cheap electronics.
• Calle Jaen is one of the few places in the city with preserved colonial buildings, currently housing several interesting museums.
• Plaza Murillo contains government buildings and the city cathedral.
• The Valle de La Luna - surreal, weathered rock. Just outside the city. Take a local bus, or join a tour.

Museums

• Museum San Francisco [1], Plaza San Francisco. This restored religious complex has housed some of Bolivia's most important historical moments, including the birth of the Independence Revolution of 1809. Also, one can climb the church tower to get a panoramic view of both the indigenous and Mestiza quarters. Displays are in Spanish and English along with personal guides (sometimes a bit too personal...).
• Tiwanaku Museum
• Museum of Contemporary Art (Museo de Arte Contemporaneo), Av. 16 de Julio 1698 (Prado). The permanent collection upstairs (Bs10 admission) contain many works by renowned Aymara painter Mamani Mamani. The downstairs gallery containing work by students and up-and-comers is free.
• Coca Museum [2], Calle Linares 906. A favorite of foreign tourists, this small museum details the history and significance of the coca plant, including the effect of the U.S. War on Drugs. The displays are in Spanish, but booklets of complete translations in other languages are provided. According to the museum, crack cocaine is the greatest epidemic since the Plague in the Middle-Ages (hard luck HIV). And yes, there are free samples of coca leaf for visitors.
• Musical Instrument Museum (Museo de Instrumentos Musicales de Bolivia), Calle Jaen 711. Displays a huge collection of sound-producing devices from Bolivia and beyond, some of which you can play yourself. The museum was founded by charango master and inventor Ernesto Cavour, and some of his creations on display (such as multi-bodied guitars) are downright bizarre.
• Museum of Precious Metals (Museo de Metales Preciosos Precolombinos), Calle Jaen 777. Pre-Columbian treasures in silver and gold.
• Submerged Museum (Museo Subterraneo), in front of the city stadium. Hardly deserving the name "museum", it's essentially a small outdoor plaza sunk into the ground with a huge replica Tiwanaku monolith in the middle of it.

Views

La Paz is a city which can be a sight in itself, and there are several viewing places or miradores offering impressive panoramas.

• Parque Laikacota, at the top of Av. Ejercito west of the city center. The best panorama from within the bowl, with clear views of the city and the rugged terrain to the east, all the way to Mt. Illimani. Admission is Bs 3.5.
• Mirador Monticulo, next to Plaza España. This small park (free entry) has a church and lots of trees which block much of the city, but the clear view of Illimani makes it an evening hotspot for couples.
• In the heart of downtown, Av. Camacho points straight to Illimani, and from the intersection with the Prado it's framed by skyscrapers in an interesting juxtaposition.

City tours

Peñas

One of the most recognizable aspects of Andean culture is its folk music, which you can enjoy at a number of peñas, or music clubs.

• Huari, Calle Sagarnaga 329. Its location makes it the convenient choice for foreign tourists, so be prepared for extreme tourist prices and slightly tacky decor. (The ancient Incas probably didn't have black lighting.) Nonetheless, the music and dance performances are excellent.
• Marka Tambo Calle Jaen 710. Considered among the best for serious fans of the music.

Cinemas

• Try Monje Campero at the beginning of Av.16 de julio.
• Also you can go to 16 de Julio near to Plaza del Estudiante.
• Despite the best efforts to censor it Cine Azul (Latin America's premier underground bluey showhouse) is still up and running at the beginning of Av.16 de julio. The steam is literally dripping off the walls! (Amongst other things)

Internet

Internetcafes are on each street corner in La Paz. Current standard fare is 2 Bs. per hour. There are four internetcafes around plaza mendoza at this price, all with good connection.

Shopping, La_Paz_(Bolivia) souvenirs

Handicrafts

Fair trade shop - 958 Calle Linares: Check out the amazing value weavings upstairs, much better quality than the stuff on the street and not that much more expensive (sometimes cheaper even!) Also very nicely mounted with wood panels and ready for hanging. To quote their mission statement "... for the generation of economic revenues that contribute to the improvement of life quality of (the weavers´) families".. So by buying here you also support a good cause!

Maps

La Paz is a good place for buying maps of the country, but be aware that Bolivian maps has a reputation of containing errors. Topographical maps are available in 1:50 000, 1:100 000 and 1:250 000. The most popular maps, including the 1:250 000 version of Cordillera Real and the 1:50 000 version of Volcan Sajama are sold by street vendors that roam Calle Sagarnaga and from stalls along el Prado. But the best place to buy maps is the "Instituto Geografico Militar", IGM. The instituto has two offices in town, listed below.

• Edificio Murillo No. 100, Calle Juan XXIII Parallell to Calle Murillo at the end of Calle Rodríguez. This office is likely to be closest to where you stay and sometimes has as map or two on offer, but most often asks you to come back mañana when they still don't have the map you want. It's has a nice atmosphere though, and makes a nice visit for mapophiles needing that fix of fresh map air.
• Oficina Central, Estado Mayor General, Av. Saavedra No. 2303. This is the place to go, but a little out of the way. It is said to be open afternoons, but it's best to visit between 9 a.m. and 11 a.m. Closed if there's a soccer game in the nearby Stadium. Take a micro marked "E. Mayor" from Plaza San Fransisco. The unmarked entrance is 20 m down Av. Saavedra from the main car entrance to the Estado Mayor. Surrender your passport in the window marked IGM, get a number tag to hang around you neck and walk down the road and to the left. Many maps are only available in copies for 30 Bs a sheet. An original is 40 Bs.

Good restaurants and cheap meals

Most of the fancier restaurants in La Paz are at the bottom of the Prado, around the vicinity of Plaza Isabel La Catolica.

• Utama, top floor of Plaza Hotel, Av. 16 de Julio 1789 (Prado). With its fabulous view of the city, the Utama has served the likes of Fidel Castro and Alberto Fujimori (embattled former President of Peru), yet the main dishes (Bolivian and international, in portions ample for two) are only around Bs50($6.50).
• Angelo Colonial, Calle Linares 922. A dark, bohemian cafe set in an old mansion decorated with scads of antiques. Serving Bolivian food and the best drip coffee in La Paz.
• Tambo Colonial, in Hotel Rosario. Lavish breakfast buffet for Bs20 ($2.50), great international and local food at night. Try the Lake Titicaca trout with Beni almonds: one of the best dishes I've had in Bolivia. Not open for lunch.
• Madero, Av. 20 de Octubre by Plaza Avaroa. Bolivian cuisine in a nice, creaky wooden interior resembling an old attic. Try to get the table in the upper dining room by the window, looking out over the plaza.
• Naira, Calle Sagarnaga 161. Catering mostly to travelers (and guests of the hotel -- see below), but a good sampling of Bolivian dishes. Expensive.
• Alo Cubano, Av. Aniceto de Arce. Best place to pretend you're back in the fifties plotting a pan-American revolution with Fidel and Che.
• Contigo Peru, second floor of Edificio Alameda (on the Prado). Good ceviche and other seafood.
• New Tokyo, Av. 6 de Agosto 2932
• Eli's New York Deli, on the Prado. Try ordering with a thick New York accent and see what you get.
• Sultan, el Prado, close to Plaza del Estudiante. Great Arabic fastfood in an unpretentious setting. Try the falafel for 7 Bs. Order a "super" for 10 Bs if you're hungry and be there for lunch when the boss isn´t around (bigger portions).
• There's a string of inexpensive pizza and hamburger joints on the west side of Avenida 6 de Agosto south of Plaza del Estudiante. Sergio's is considered the best, and is good for checking upcoming music venues.
• Pizzeria Italia, Calle Ilampu 809, serves nice breakfasts with a friendly smile.
• La Mia Pizzeria, Calle Ilampu, below one of the two "Pizzeria Italia" branches on Calle Ilampu. Cheaper than "Italia" with more american style pizzas. 1.2 l beer is US$2. Take-away available.
• Al amir, Murillo 824, has nice Arabic food.
• 100% Punctual, Calle Sagarnaga 95. Latecomers beware. This place delivers food with military-like time precision. Start syncronising your watches now!
• The Star of India, Curry House / Take-Away - The best curry in La Paz people say, just watch out for their Vindaloo

La_Paz_(Bolivia) nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs.

Cafes

• Alexander The Great, Av. 16 de Julio 1832 and other locations. Many thought the legendary Macedonian slayer had long since died. Not so infact, although he is considerably tamer after a rough encounter with a fiery cholita.
• Blueberries, Av. 20 de Octubre 2475. This café serves af very delicious coffee, and also has a very appealing breakfast menu. The café is situated at the east end of Plaza Avaroa, where you may also find an "Alexanders Coffee".
• Pepe's Coffee Bar, Jimenez 894. Decent coffee and a nice calm getaway close to the tourist ghetto. Sandwiches are disappointingly small, but tasty. The "Trekker´s Breakfast" is huge and delicious.

La_Paz_(Bolivia) nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs.

• Oliver's Travels, 1014 Calle Murillo & Calle Tarija, is an English owned, English themed bar run by charismatically obnoxious proprietor Oliver (Surname "Travels"). Shows most major British sporting events and serves a solid menu including decent steaks, lasagnes and curries, with some hearty sandwiches thrown in for good measure. Andres, the legendary Bolivian barman, also serves the best Caiparinha's in La Paz. Although staff can be incredibly obnoxious, service is great and it's all part of the fun.
• Sol Y Luna, Calle Murillo, is a Dutch owned traveller's hangout serving a contemporary menu and mid-range prices. Good atmosphere and potentially lethal dart's board. Service is painfully slow and staff are not particularly helpful with complaints.
• The Lounge, Calle Presbitero Medina 2527. This is a place which is fairly different for La Paz. Owned by an American and her Bolivian husband, it is probably the chillest bar environment Sopocachi, plus it has a full menu which boasts delicious dishes and which you can order until 12:00 a.m. You will find a mix of locals, foreigners passing through and foreigners who live in La Paz enjoying the style and comfort of the 'lounge' -- couches, fireplace, martinis, good music, djs on the weekend, and live music on Thursdays. Good service and of course, English is spoken. Open late.
• Irish, on Plaza Avoroa, pathetically named Irish themed bar owned by two Argentinian benders. Food is overpriced but good, and the cocktails are reasonable, though behind the above mentioned bars. Mostly frequented by Bolivians and should be scorned by real Irish people.

Clubbing

• Mongo's, Is not a club or a bar but a way of life, located at Hernamos Manchego 2444, is one of the popular places for travellers. It also attracts many locals, known in backpacking circles as "gringo chasers". On weekends it's open till around 4 AM.
• Ram Jam (taxidrivers should know) near Plaza Abaroa there is another popular place, It's open till 4 AM, the new legal limit for serving alcohol in La Paz. It certainly pales in comparison to Mongo's. Ram Jam also produces its own microbrew. The ales in Bolivia are award winning beers and Huari is one of the best ones, because they use natural mineral water to produce it and it can only be sold locally in Bolivia. They have a very drinkable ale and stout on tap at this bar.
• Forum, Near Plaza Espana is a mostly Bolivian hangout though is La Paz's only proper disco venue. Upper class Bolivians frequent the establishment very dressed up. Worth a look if you're missing a big club with big pretensions.
• Gitanas, Zona Sur, Calle 8 de Calacoto, is a bar/club hangout for upper class youth of La Paz's South Zone.
• Hentai, Zona Sur, Coto Coto, is a pretty hip club in La Paz's rich South Zone that's slightly on the right side of pretentious. Good alternative to Mongo's or RamJam if you're sick of bumping into Gringos all the time. Dress well.

Hotels, youth hostels, lodging

If you do not want to plan where to stay overnight, you can do that in loco by walking on calle Sagarnaga or calle Illampu. These streets are merged into fairs and museums, so are full of people all day long. There are many different hotels in all price ranges. There are about 8 Bolivianos(Bs) per dollar(2006). Be sure to inspect your room before signing the register.

Budget

• Hostal Illimani Calle Illimani #1817 In Barrio Miraflores, a few blocks from the Stadium, 591-2-220-2346. Basic and secure accommodations with shared bath and sink in room. Ms. Filomena is the manager who keeps an eye on the place and is always happy to help. Has a courtyard and places to wash and dry clothing. I paid 25 b for a single. Doubles are available. Is not in the normal city central tourist area. If you want to be by the tourist stuff, do not stay here. If you want less gringos around this is a good place.
• El Caratero, about 5 blocks north of san francisco, dorm for 18 Bs. Basic.
• Hostal Austria, Calle Yanacocha 531, 235-1140. Very popular with backpackers , offering warm water, friendly staff and a central location. Singles Bs35, shared room Bs25.
• El Macpherson, Calle Murillo 776. Another backpacker joint. Named after the blonde French cycling instructor who enjoys cult status with local barbers. Warm water, shared bathrooms, laundry service and OK staff. Singles Bs35, dormitory Bs25.
• Hostal Naira [3] Calle Sagarnaga 161, 235-5645, Fax 231-1214. In business since 1975, with a good restaurant in the basement and a popular cafe (Coffee Banais) on the ground floor.
• Hosteria Blanquita, Santa Cruz 242, is a nice place, with a friendly staff, offering doubles for 70 Bs.
• Hotel Continental, top end of Calle Illampu. Doubles with share bath is 80 Bs. 10% discount with HI-card.
• Adventure Brew [4] New Hostel, Ex Hotel, great rooms, booking a bit poorly disorganised but its new so give them a chance. Single 56 Bs, Double 112 Bs.
• Hostal Cactus, Calle Jimenez. Kitchen, laundry service, lousy Nestle instant coffee maker, rooftop terrace, nice quiet street. Very popular with the pseudo-hippie types (Your revolution is over!! The bums lost!!) who continue to sponge off the state and their parents with supposed moral justification. It was very loud outside our room which was next to the partying employees´ reception area (Friday night fiesta time!). 30 Bs for privates (10 Bs for lentil soup)
• Loki Backpackers Hostel, Calle Loayza 420. Brand new hostel by the bona fide backpackers who brought you Loki Cusco and LOki Lima. Loki La Paz is set in the beautifully restored 100 year old hotel Viena and boasts the world´s highest Irish Bar . Services include real duvets, comfortable beds, real hot showers, free breakfast, evening meals, free internet and Wifi, Tv room with DVDs and satellite ( for sports fans ). Prices start at 4US (32Bs) for a dorm.
• Hotel Majestic Calle Santa Cruz. Splurge just a little and for 110 bolivianos you get a nice comfy double with tv (loads of movie channels) and private bathroom with hot shower. All in the heart of the backpacker area. Breakfast is also included, but isn´t great.

Mid-range

• Hotel España [5], Av. 6 de Agosto 2074, 244-2643. Located in the Sopocachi district close to numerous nice restaurants, the España has a charming garden courtyard as well as a solarium. There's a single net-connected PC in the lobby. Singles $24, doubles $34.
• Hotel Rosario [6], Av. Illampu 704, 245-1658. Located in the Aymara District close to the Witches Market and many touristic attractions. Has a Colonial style building with sunny patios. Free Internet and WiFi. Complementary Tea and Mate de Coca. Singles $28-$31, doubles $39-$43. Book ahead; it fills up.

Splurge

• Ritz Apart Hotel [7], Plaza Isabel La Catolica 2478. Five stars and all suites in the heart of Sopocachi.
• Hotel Europa [8] Tihuanaco 64, 231-5656. Luxury hotel located just off the central Prado.
• Radisson Plaza Hotel La Paz [9], Av. Arce 2177. Luxury hotel situated in Sopocachi in the heart of La Paz.

Stay safe

In crowded areas be careful for pickpockets and bagslashers. A common trick is that one person spills something on your clothes, and while you or he wipes it off another person lifts your wallet or slashes your bag.

Be vigilant when checking into a hotel or hostel. Keep a hand on all your bags/belongings at all times. Acting as if they work for the hotel, opportunist thieves will create a diversion and snatch the nearest unattended bag.

If you are approached by police in drag don't show any valuables or your passport. And certainly don't get in a taxi with them. Undercover police are strictly ordered not to hassle tourists. There have been several cases of muggings and things going missing from bags or luggage after "drug searches". Insist on being taken to the police station before giving them access to your things. If you can, call the 110, which is the Bolivian number for emergencies . Take care - an Austrian couple was found murdered in 2006 after following false police into a taxi. See http://www.katharinaandpeter.info/ for travelers stories and safety tips for Bolivia.

There have been several cases of violent muggings in taxis. Only take Radio Cabs (they will have the telephone number and their call centre listed above the cab). The taxis, or Gypsy Cabs, have no boarding above the taxi and have taxi written on the side, they are dangerous to take at night, as many of the drivers are paid to drive tourists to specific locations for muggings. Be especially careful if you are at one of the illegal after-hours bars such as Fin Del Mundo, as most of the muggings happen in taxis from these locations. Lock the doors and don't allow other people to share the journey with you.

Get out

The most popular day trips from La Paz are to Tiwanaku, Chacaltaya, and Lake Titicaca, though the latter (especially Copacabana) is pushing it a bit in terms of time.

Another popular daytrip is the bike ride down the world's most dangerous road or Death Road. It's a 70km long scenic ride downhill to Coroico. There is an average of 100 motor fatalities a year (though in the eight years that companies have been biking down the road, there have only been 8 biking fatalities), a world record, mostly due to the Bolivian driving style than to the road itself. Although it's a narrow, winding road with big drops on the side, going down by bike is probably the safest way to get to Coroico and there are several tour agents in La Paz offering the trip.

• Bolivian Astrid Tours, Sagárnaga 389 (esq. Illampu), (591-2)2116756. Recommended tour agent with good equipment and a low price.
• Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking[10], Av. 16 de Julio #1490 (Edificio Avenida), (591-2)2-313849, is the one mostly recommended by the guidebooks, but is relatively expensive ($55 for the bare-bones Death Road trip, $70 for a bike with both front- and rear-suspension), but you get what you pay for, the guides are great and the bikes all have disk brakes and are well maintained. It also offers other mountain biking trips, but doesn't operate in the rainy season or on Mondays.
• Topas Bolivia, [11]. This company is managed by international standards, and receives funds for developing sustainable tourism.

For those needing to travel this road by bus (on their way to Rurrenabaque, for example) there's now a new, half-complete paved road down to Coroico. Not all bus companies take it, though, so inquire when you buy your ticket. Bolivian officials close this new road at seemingly random times for construction (which has been ongoing for the last 12 years).

A lot of travel agencies on Calle Sagarnaga and Calle Illampu organize climbing. The most popular mountain is Huayna Potosi. Travel agents will carry any tourist to the top for US$100-150.

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