Kaohsiung
Kaohsiung (高雄; Gāoxióng) [1]) is the second largest city in Taiwan and the world's third largest cargo-container seaport. It is located to the southwest of the island.
Culture and History
Kaohsiung is Taiwan's second largest city (with 1.5 million inhabitants) and its largest port. The city has high concentrations of heavy industry, including steel production, shipbuilding, and other exports that have led to Kaohsiung's relatively high levels of air pollution (though the situation has improved substantially in recent years). Unlike Taipei, Kaohsiung is a planned city with wide streets and slightly less traffic congestion than the capital. In recent years the city has made great strides in transforming itself from a primarily industrial city into a modern Asian metropolis, and several areas of the city, such as along the banks of the River Ai, have benefited from major beautification projects. The city is often known as Taiwan's "Harbor Capital" (港都) because of it's close connection and heavy reliance on the ocean and maritime transportation.
Kaohsiung began in the 17th century as a small fishing village named "Takao" (打狗), derived from the local aboriginal name meaning "bamboo forest". The name was changed to "高雄" (meaning: "high hero") by the Japanese in 1895, also pronounced "Takao" in Japanese, as they found the original name of 打狗 ("beating the dog") to be vulgar. The modern name of "Kaohsiung" is the pronunciation of "高雄" in Mandarin.
The city is divided into eleven administrative districts, which can be roughly grouped by character:
- Downtown
- Sinsing (新興區)
- Cianjin (前金區)
- Lingya (苓雅區)
This article covers the downtown area only. For information on outer districts see their specific articles.
Travel to Kaohsiung, visa requirements
Flights to Kaohsiung, airtickets
Kaohsiung International Airport (KHH) is about twenty minutes from the city center. International flights from Asia arrive daily, with daily connections between Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport and Kaohsiung. The airport is easily accessible by scooter, car or taxi. Most flights will probably be intra-island flights from the much larger Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport near Taipei.
By train
With the opening of the Taiwan High Speed Rail line, traveling by train is now a very viable option for getting to Kaohsiung, as the fastest trains from Taipei cover the distance in just 90 minutes. However, note that the HSR terminus is in Zuoying (左營, also Tsoying) on the northern outskirts of town, and you'll need to connect to the city center via bus, ordinary train or (starting late 2007) by metro.
Kaohsiung is also served by the Taiwan Railway Administration's Western Line and Pingtung Line. The city is roughly 4 to 5 hours away from Taipei by normal express train.
Buses to Kaohsiung
Buses run the length of the island, with stops in major towns. They feature fully reclining seats, baggage transportation and, on most, video game consoles or televisions for each seat. Prices run just over 1000 NT$ per trip, depending on the initial and final destination.
Most major bus companies have their office and stops close to the train station. They are located on the same road as the train station, about half a block down the street.
By boat
Because Kaohsiung is also a harbor, transportation by boat will bring you directly into the city.
Get around
By metro
Kaohsiung's long-delayed metro system continues to be long-delayed. Latest promises are that it'll open sometime in late 2007, maybe.
By taxi
Taxis can be an easy way to get to somewhere unfamiliar, and are fairly common in the city. If you have the business card of a location, or the Chinese characters written down, they can easily get you there far faster than most other means.
It is best to get the price in advance, and, if possible, buckle up. Few taxi drivers speak English, and the majority ignore any and all rules of the road. Do not be surprised if they drive the wrong way, up a hill, through heavy traffic. If the price is not negotiated in advance, do not be surprised if they take you in the wrong direction for a little while, or even drive in circles. Typically, going from one end of the city to the other should never be more than 400 NT$.
By car
Rentals are available in various locations across town, but obtaining a license within the city can be a problem. It is recommended you call ahead if you have an international drivers license to insure it will allow you to drive. In addition, license laws in Taiwan fluctuate from year to year for foreigners. Currently, as of 2006, you must have an Alien Residence Card for more than a year to take the license examination.
Parking is scarce, but available. The city recognizes this problem, and attempts to make the city more car-friendly by building parking garages and painting designated parking spaces alongside streets. However, for travel within the city itself, or only locally, it is recommended you get a scooter.
By scooter
Scooters are the primary means of transportation within Kaohsiung. With a dedicated two-wheel vehicle lane on most major roads, and with frequent and varied scooter shops around town, renting or purchasing a scooter is very easy; however, see the Taiwan article for legal issues including licenses.
Scooters come in several engine sizes from below 50cc to more than 250cc. Most common in recent years are the 4-stroke 100 and 125cc models, which are also suitable to explore the surroundings of the city. The larger scooters, 150cc and more, often include a greater subset of amenities for a second passenger, including a backrest, wider seat, full windshield and footholds and can rival a motorcycle overall size, weight and fuel consumption. Often, they come with larger wheels as well.
All passengers on a scooter must wear helmets by law. Helmets are sold almost everywhere, and range in price from 100 NT$ to upwards of 2,000 NT$. A helmet with visor is strongly suggested.
Legal Issues
Scooters with an engine size of 50cc require a light motorcycle license to drive, and should be insured and registered in the owner's name. If you have a Taiwanese automobile driver's license or a valid International Driving Permit you do not need an additional license for these small scooters. Motorcycles with an engine replacement of 51 to 250cc require a heavy motorcycle driving license. However, foreigners often drive scooters up to 250cc with no license, insurance or registration. Due to a loophole in Taiwanese law, scooters registered to foreigners who have left the country cannot be bought by Taiwanese citizens because the registration cannot change hands, legally. An underground market in "foreigner scooters" allows visitors to purchase scooters without insurance or registration.
City police are often more lenient on foreigners. Short of being towed for parking in a red zone (a stripe of red paint on the edge of a sidewalk or road), foreigners are usually waved through stops, or, at best, ticketed. If the scooter is not registered to you however, its hard to say what exactly happens when the ticket is sent out. Often the best idea is to speak a language other than English or Chinese, play dumb and hope the officer will get flustered and let you go.
By bike
Bikes are also common in Kaohsiung, and the large number of locally produced bikes (often rebranded and sold overseas) means purchasing a new bike will often be cheaper relative to its counterpart in other countries (primarily Europe and America). Giant, a well-built, recognized Taiwanese brand, has shops throughout the city, and some of the store managers speak English. Bikes are street legal, even without a helmet, but theft is common for any bike over 3,000 NT$. Hardly understandable for most foreigners, even heavy traffic rule violations by cyclists are not fined allover Taiwan until now, but government authorities planning to change this in a not too distant future.
As Kaohsiung is predominantly flat, a great way to see the city is by bike. Riding along the Love River north towards the Art Museum area offers a pleasant ride and some scenery of the old Kaohsiung that is fast disappearing. Pleasant bike routes can also be found around Sun Yet-Sen university and on the coastal side of Shoushan mountain, but expect a few hills to climb. It is best to avoid this place on the weekends when hoardes of young Kaohsiung couples head to the mountain for some romantic sunset views of the city and ocean at one of the countless coffee shops. Cijin Island also offers some nice riding around the streets at the northern end of the island.
By boat
An inexpensive ferry service connects various areas of Kaohsiung City.
On foot
As the sidewalks double as scooter parking areas, and there are many ongoing construction projects in the city, walking around the streets of Kaohsiung is difficult at best and on occasions even down right dangerous. Pedestrians should be especially aware when crossing a road as cars and motorbikes often run red lights.
Kaohsiung attractions and sightseeing
- The Chijin District (旗津) is located on a slender island in Kaohsiung harbor which serves as a natural breakwater for the harbor. The district is filled with seafood restaurants selling freshly caught seafood which can be prepared right after you pick it out. Chijin is connected to the rest of Kaohsiung City by underwater tunnels, but the transporation of choice is one of the many ferries that traverse the harbor. Fare for the ferry ride is NT$10 per person. The area is especially crowded on weekends with many visitors bringing their entire family along.
City tours
- Feast on fresh seafood in the Chijin District.
- Visit the Liouho Night Market.
- Enjoy a coffee in one of the waterfront-side cafes along the Ai River.
Learn
Kaohsiung is home to a number of Universities. However, unless you are fluent in Mandarin Chinese, the primary focus for visitors will be Language acquisition.
There are two major Language Institutes in the city: Taipei Language Institute (TLI) and Wenzao College Of Languages.
TLI is located in the heart of downtown Kaohsiung. They focus heavily on spoken and conversational Mandarin, and teach primarily through the use of Hanzu Pinyin.
Wenzao offers courses in a number of languages, including English, French, Spanish and Mandarin. Chinese classes focus on the full spectrum of the language, and traditionally begin with BoPoMoFo phonetics and move into character production, tone use and full immersion.
Both schools are excellent and highly respected. On average, Westerners can become conversationally adept in 6 months to 2 years, depending on intensity of study and frequency of class attendance.
Work
For foreigners, currently work in Kaohsiung falls into two branches. The majority of employment involves English as a Second Language (ESL) work in bushibans, kindergartens and schools (public, private or university). Most of the others are businessmen and women in the employ of multinational corporations here to manage, oversee or deploy production in Taiwan for their home company abroad. Others, such as the large engineer force currently present, have come to participate in the construction of either the High Speed Rail or the Kaohsiung Mass Rapid Transit (KMRT).
Substitute work is easily available and can be obtained through internet groups such as Taiwan Teaching Jobs .... or Connect Kaohsiung or through local postings in expatriate hangouts. However, without the paperwork above, you will need to leave the country every 2-4 months to renew your Visa. You will also be working illegally, with no national health insurance and a number of other inconveniences (including lack of phone and Internet access). Most kindergartens are also highly illegal and few, if any, provide work permits. As a general rule of thumb, if you are paid in cash, you are working illegally.
Shopping, Kaohsiung souvenirs
Good restaurants and cheap meals
Budget
Night markets are a great place to pick up cheap local foods, including stinky tofu, barbecued squid, red bean pancakes and the like.
Lunchboxes are common throughout the city, and a choose-your-order buffet take-out typically ranges from 50 to 100 NT$. The food is typically fried, with a mix of vegetables and meats.
The ubiquitous 7-Eleven stores have tea eggs, hot dogs, packaged beverages and junk food. Lunchbox style microwavables are also available, including dumplings, spaghetti and curry rice.
Mid-range
- Bagel Bagel is great for disoriented Westerners in search of familiar food. They offer a variety of tasty sandwiches at reasonable prices (150-200 NT$). The menu is in English and most of the staff understand and speak some English. There are two branches in the city, including one adjacent to the Love River.
- Smokey Joes offers Tex-Mex, including fajitas, tortillas and other Western staples at affordable prices (170 NT$ and up). The menu is in English and the staff usually understands some English as well. They offer a 'VIP' card for people who spend over 1,000 NT$ on 20 separate meals which gives the holder at 10% discount at any store operated by Amy (the owner of Smokey Joes). This includes Mama Mia's, an Italian restaurant located downtown.
- General Panchos, a burrito stand approximately 3 blocks from Smokey Joes, offers slightly cheaper mexican cuisine, including taquitos, tacos and burritos. Prices range but stay under 200 NT$ for a meal.
- The Pantheon serves traditional Greek and Mediterranean food at good prices. Known for their Gyro lunch (around 200 NT$), they are one of the few (if only) restaurants that serves lamb. They also offer a 20% discount on takeout.
Splurge
- The Spice Shop, located on Minghua Rd. just west of Dollars, offers Indian food at slightly higher prices. Dishes come in an a-la-carte style, and each ranges from 120 NT$ to 300 NT$. Typically 2 or 3 dishes makes up a meal. There is also another Indian restaurant closer to Dollars called the Curry Shop.
An excellent vegetarian buffet-style restaurant is situated in the basement of the Tuntex Sky Tower (the two-legged skyscraper) - around NT$800 for an all-you-can-eat lunch.
Kaohsiung nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs.
Two local beer companies, Tsingtao and Taiwan Beer, are ubiquitous throughout the island and can be purchased by visitors cheaply with little hassle about age restrictions.
Most major soft drinks are available, and tea stands on almost every corner offer concoctions of fruit, yogurt, green tea, the Taiwanese specialty "bubble tea," and a variety of other flavors.
While tap water is most certainly NOT potable, good reverse osmosis filtration will remove bacteria and heavy metals, and is considered safe for consumption. Water dispensers, which resemble gas stations, are present throughout the city. However, they, along with many of the bottled water brands, are suspect. Both have been found, in the past, to simply bottle or distribute tap water.
To avoid ingesting non-potable water, only purchase bottles that are sealed with an expiration date clearly printed on the bottle. Often, it is easier to simply purchase green tea at a stand or a convenience store, or a soft drink. Restaurant water is safe, with the exception of some lunchbox eateries and stands on the street.
Hotels, youth hostels, lodging
Budget
Mid-range
- Huahou Hotel, (華后大飯店) 219, Gong Yuan 2nd Road. Tel:+886 7 551-8251. [2]. Clean hotel near the river. From US$30, including brunch.
Splurge
- Howard Plaza Hotel Kaohsiung, (福華大飯店) 311 Chihsien 1 Road. Tel:886 7 236-2323, [3].
- The Splendor Kaohsiung, (金典酒店) 7-85F, No. 1 Tzu-Chiang 3rd Road. Tel:886 7 566-8000, [4].
Contact
The dialing code for Kaohsiung is 07. From overseas, dial 886 07 XXXX-XXXX
Stay safe
Theft tends to be the most common form of criminal activity encountered by foreigners, and expensive bikes and scooters are frequent targets.
As a major seaport, organized crime has become an increasing problem in the city, and a fair number of businesses are nothing more than a front for local gangs. Avoid confrontation; do not yell or curse and keep your temper in check and your chances of being the target of any sort of crime drop dramatically.
In general, Kaohsiung offers a very safe environment for foreigners as long as you mind your own business and don't get involved with local rivalries. Violent street crime is still relatively scarce, and visitors should not encounter any problems - though, like any major city, it is always wise to err on the side of caution.
Cope
Get out
China travel tips: Language / pensions culture in Barcelona / cheap youth hostels singapore / hotels and hostels in Trastevere in Rome / Major Morocco tourist attractions / South Africa political attractions / Vancouver visitors guide, culture & youth hostels / Las Vegas hotels, top casinos, tours and shows
