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Kabul
Kabul has been the capital of Afghanistan since at least 1776. The city has recieved heavy damages from the 1979 to 2001 various wars, particularly the western parts of the city. Kabul is currently under development, with a new master plan that will be completed by the end of 2007. In the last five years, some modern style tower blocks have started to appear.
Culture and History
Travel to Kabul, visa requirements
Flights to Kabul, airtickets
Kabul International Airport (IATA: KBL), +93 9251-61001, is a short drive east of the city. Airport facilities include banking, buffet-bar, car park, post office and restaurant (all very basic). Do not expect a modern international standard airport - this is possibly the dirtiest airport in the world. Taxis are available to the city center, but it is safer to be met by someone who is known to you. A new modern-style terminal is under construction near the old terminal, which is scheduled to be completed by 2008.
By car
- The road from Kandahar has been rebuilt, but is very dangerous through Zabul.
- The road from Mazar-e Sharif and the North via the Salang Pass is open, although care is needed during winter months.
- The newly rebuilt road from Jalalabad is open which has reduced the jouney time to 2-3 hours. Many Afghans die trying to do it in less than 2 hours.
- From Bamiyan it is currently advisable to take the longer northern route, as the southern route is of questionable safety.
Buses to Kabul
Private operators serve most destinations in fairly comfortable Mercedes buses. Safety can be a problem with frequent accidents. On August 9th, 2005, twenty people died on the Kabul - Kandahar road when two buses collided. It is debateably safer to take slightly more expensive shared taxis (Toyota Corollas) or private hire vehicles.
Get around
- Millie Bus operates many routes around Kabul, but it is faster and more comfortable to use taxis.
- Taxis are plentiful and to hire the whole car should cost around 30 to 50 Afg depending on destination and bargaining skills.
- Afghan Logistics & Tours [1] (0) 702 88668, (0) 704 79435, (0) 799 391462. Catering mostly to expats they are probably the safest way to get around town. 24 hour minicabs are available as well as airport pickups and dropoffs. $5-7 around town, $15 to airport, $20 from airport.
Kabul attractions and sightseeing
- Kabul Museum (several miles from the city center, across from Darulaman Palace). The Afghan National Museum once housed one of the greatest collections of Central Asian artifacts in the world. A large percentage of the previous collection was looted in the 90's during Taliban rule after the upper floors of the museum were bombed. Many of the early Buddhist treasures were destroyed by the Taliban at the same time as the Bamiyan Buddhas. Looted items still turn up around the world at auction. The museum is open once again, with far more modest displays of early Buddhist and Islamic artifacts.
- Darulaman Palace. Originally built to house the Afghan government, it's been destroyed and rebuilt a few times over. Plans were unveiled a few years ago to renovate it once again and use it to house the Afghan Parliament, though it's still in a state of crumbling disrepair on the verge of collapsing.
- Qargha Reservoir. described as Kabul's lake district is 9km from the city. Spojmai restaurant provides international cuisine. Swimming and boating are popular on the lake with plans for water skiing and jet-skis in the future.
- Babur's Gardens. The gardens surround the tomb of the first Mughal Emperor Babur. Though he had wished to be buried here, he was originally buried in Agra, and later moved to this spot. It's a popular park with Afghanis for picnics and lazy afternoons. 10 Af for locals, 100 Af for foreigners.
- Baghi Bala. Another famous park in the city.
- Kabul Zoo. 6AM-6PM daily. The zoo is very popular with Afghanis, and houses over 100 animals in relatively poor condition. China was once one of the main animal donors, but has announced no further donations until conditions improve, after the death of a couple of their animals to disease and malnutrition. Marjan the lion was blinded by a grenade and was the main draw, but succumbed to old age recently. 10 Af for locals, 100 Af for foreigners.
- Ariana Cinema, Pashtunistan Square. Primarily shows Bollywood or trashy action flicks, and the occasional American blockbuster.
City tours
- Kabul Golf Club, Qargha Road, ☎ +93 79 22 63 27, [2]. Closed down in 1978 by the Soviet Union, it reopened in 2004 after a 25 year hiatus. This 9-hole course bills itself as "extreme golf with an attitude". Af 750/$15 greens fee for 9 or 18 holes, or Af 15,000/$300 yearly.
Learn
Read about the culture, history and people before your visit. Kabul is a maze of a city with lots of interesting historical places.
Just like every city you should take precautions and find out about the current political climate of the country.
Work
Shopping, Kabul souvenirs
The Share-e Naw area has some shops.
- Roshan Plaza has some quite respectable clothes shops.
- Kabul City Centre next to the park has some very smart shops.
- Chicken Street is famed for its tourist fare (carpets, carvings, knives etc) and pirated CD/DVD's.
- Chelsea Supermarket sells many types of western foods and products.
- Supreme Supermarket on the Jalalabad road (near the British military base) has western products, but currently no alcohol available. It is not open to Afghans. A little further down the road is Ciano, an Italian commissary. There is frequently a security alert on the Jalalabad road.
- Shah M Book Co (across from Mustafa Hotel). The best bookstore in the city, it's the place to head for your next novel, and also has a good selection of coffee table books and books about Afghanistan. The owner was the subject for the recent book The Bookseller of Kabul. Prices are high, but you'll appreciate his selection.
Money
ATMs are available in Kabul.
- Standard Chartered Bank [3] is in Wazir Akbar Khan.
- Afghanistan International Bank (AIB) [4] has few machines around Kabul, including one inside the Kabul City Center shopping mall. They dispense in US dollars and Afghanis, however they are often reluctant to part with any cash and sometimes dispense old, ripped notes.
- Kabul Bank [5]
- Azizi Bank [6]
- Habib Bank
- National Bank of Pakistan
- Punjab National Bank
- Western Union [7] has many offices throughout the city.
Good restaurants and cheap meals
Budget
- Street stalls abound, and good ones can be found around Shahr-e Naw Park and near the Pul-e Khisti bridge in the old town. Hygiene may be questionable, particularly in the summer.
- Cafe in basement of Kabul City Centre, Share-e Naw. Burger and banana drink for less than $3.
Mid-range
- La Cantina (East of Shar-e Nau park, about 1 block from Assa II Guesthouse), ☎ +93 798 27 19 15 (lacantinakabul@gmail.com), [8]. Tu-W 6-10PM, Th-Su 12-3PM & 6-10PM, M closed. Surely the most far-flung Mexican restaurant on the globe, serving up burritos, enchiladas, nachos and other Mexican standards. Mains Af 350-550.
- Lai Thai, Wazir Akbar Khan. Highly recommended for fine Thai food.
- Hotel Inter-Continental. offers an excellent and cheap buffet.
- Park Residence Hotel. Provides a good Afghan buffet.
- Sufi Afghan Restaurant, near the Intercontinental Hotel, [9].
- Popo Lano Italian Restaurant, Charahi Ansari, Share-e Naw. Good pizza and pastas.
- Taverna du Liban, Street 14, Lane 3, Wazir Akbar Khan, ☎ +93 799 828 376. Excellent Lebanese restaurant.
- Deutscher Hof, Street No. 3, Qala-e-Fatullah, [10]. German restaurant.
- Hong Kong Restaurant, Wazir Akbar Khan (near Pakistani embassy). Good Chinese food
- Delhi Darbar, Cinema Zainab Rd, Share-e Naw (between the park and Flower St), ☎ +93 79 32 48 99, [11]. Great Indian food including a $6 thali. Indoor seating is intimate and spread through 3 rooms, or sit outside in the spacious garden.
- Afghan International Pizza Express, Darulaman Road (near Ministry of Commerce and Ariana TV), ☎ +93 70 38 39 18. Good pizza. Destroyed during the May 2006 riots, but has since been rebuilt and has a new chef.
- Villa Vellebita, Wazir Akbar Khan. Croatian restaurant good for excellent pizza.
- The Grill Restaurant, Street 15, Wazir Akbar Khan (on junction near British embassy). Lebanese food.
- The Springfield Restaurant & Bar, Wazir Akbar Khan. Offers pizza and assorted Italian / Western fare, and has a weekly quiz night on Mondays.
Splurge
- Café Zarnegar, Froshgah Street (in the Kabul Serena Hotel), ☎ +93 79 9654 000, [12]. 6:30AM-10PM daily, F brunch 11AM-4PM. Tasty high-end international food and nice atmosphere, one of the nicest restaurants in the city. Their large buffet is probably the best in the country. $15-20.
- Silk Route Restaurant, Froshgah Street (in the Kabul Serena Hotel), ☎ +93 79 9654 000, [13]. 6-10PM daily. Specializes in South-east Asian food, in a luxurious atmosphere. $15-20.
Kabul nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs.
Alcohol used to be available at the Military P/X shops (Supreme, Blue and Ciano's) however recently the sales have stopped to all except pass-carrying members of the Military. Beer and wine can be found sporadically on the black market in local shops on Flower Street. Most expat restaurants offer beer, wine and spirits but it is unknown how long this will last given current conditions.
Hotels, youth hostels, lodging
Budget
- Mustafa Hotel [14]. Has a restaurant, Internet cafe and billiards. Single rooms from $30/night.
- Salsal Guesthouse, Zarghona Maidan, Shar-e Naw Park, (located between the park and the Chelsea Supermarket, and is signed in English), +93 (0) 799 734 202. Reasonably clean, shared bathrooms, friendly manager (Bashir) speaks English. Single rooms from $10/night, includes cable TV and a fan. Double rooms from $20/night.
Mid-range
- Le Monde Guest House Kabul, 7 Herati Mosque Street, Shar-e Naw Park, and Flower street.
- Park Residence Hotel, Ansari Square, Shahr-e Naw Park, +93 79 373 780, reasonable rooms with cable TV and Internet access. Internet cafe is now shifted inside the hotel near the reception (this was the site of the 2005 internet cafe suicide bombing). Single, double and triple rooms from $55/night including breakfast. Dinner buffet is $6.
- UNICA Guest House, Shar-i-Naw, Ansari Wat. Rooms starting at $25 per night--majority of rooms are $48 and $50. Facility is nice by Kabul standards and includes nice common gardens, swimming pool and Bar. Dinner buffet is $6.
Splurge
- Kabul Serena Hotel, [15]. A clean and modern 5-star hotel with 3 great restaurants. One of the best hotels in the city, single room from $132/night.
- Intercontinental Hotel, Bagh-e Bala Rd, +93 20 220 1321 [16]. A great 5-star hotel with nice restaurants and a swimming pool, single room from $90/night.
- Safi Landmark Hotel & Suites, Shahr-e Naw Park, (in the Kabul City Center shopping mall), +93 20 220 3131. Apartments also available.
- Golden Star Hotel [17]. A clean and modern 4-star hotel, with restaurant and conference hall.
- Heetal Plaza Hotel, +93 79 167 824, [18] A nice, quiet, relaxing and cozy place. Single room from $85/night.
Contact
Internet
- There are numerous internet cafes around the city, so getting access should not be too hard.
- Assa II Net Cafe, Muslim St. On the ground floor of Assa II Guesthouse, they have several computers with semi-reliable connections. 25Af / $1 hour.
Stay safe
Cope
Read the Scene magazine for restaurant reviews and all sorts of useful info. It is free, although expect street sellers to charge for it. There are many FM radio stations. However, the only widely available English language broadcast is from the BBC World Service on 101.6MHz.
Get out
Most expats take any opportunity they can to leave Kabul. A weekend in Dubai, day trip to the north (Shamali Plain, Salang Pass and Jabal os Saraj), Qargha Reservoir etc.
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