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Jodhpur
Jodhpur is the second largest city in the state of Rajasthan, India. It is called the Gateway to Thar, as it is literally on the edge of the Thar desert. It is also called the Sun City as the sun shines (very bright and hot!) almost every day of the year.
Culture and History
Did you know? The word jodhpurs owes its etymology to this city. (riding breeches, cut at the hips but tight fitting from knee to ankle, usually worn while riding horses or playing polo). |
Jodhpur is a historic city and the origin dates to the year 1459 AD when it was founded by Rao Jodha, the Rajput chieftan of the Rathores. The Rathore kingdom was also known as the Marwar and was the largest in Rajputana.
The city was built as the new capital of the state of Marwar (now Rajasthan) to replace the ancient capital Mandore, the ruins of which can be seen near what is now the Mandore Gardens. The people of Jodhpur and surrounding areas are hence also commonly called as Marwaris.
Jodhpur is also known as the Blue City, an apt name as most houses in the old city are shades of blue. This is particularly noticeable on the north side of the town, known as Brahmpur for the many Brahmins that live there.
The forts and palaces, temples and havelis, culture and tradition, spices and fabrics, colour and texture, a booming handicrafts industry, all add up to make this historic city worth a visit.
- The Regional Tourist office run by the Government of Rajasthan is located at RTDC Hotel Ghoomar, High Court Road, +91 291 2545083
Travel to Jodhpur, visa requirements
Jodhpur is well connected by road, rail and air to all major cities and towns.
Flights to Jodhpur, airtickets
Connected by air from Delhi, Mumbai, Jaipur, Udaipur; the airport is about 5 km from the city centre. Take a taxi (Rs.200) or autorickshaw (Rs.50) from the airport to your hotel.
- Indian [1] operates daily flights to Jodhpur from Delhi, Mumbai, Jaipur and Udaipur; the airline office is located on Airport Road, 91 291 2510757, 2510758. Open everyday from 10AM-1PM and 2PM-4.30PM. Contacts for the airport counter are 91 291 2512617, 2511516.
- Jet Airways Jet Airways operates daily flights from Delhi and Mumbai.
By train
Jodhpur is an important division of the North Western zone of the Indian Rail network . It is well connected by direct trains from all metros and major cities in India, including Delhi, Mumbai, Ahmedabad, Jaipur, Jaisalmer, Bikaner, Lucknow, Kalka, Jammu, Kolkata, Chennai, Bangalore, Hyderabad. For example, the popular Mandor Express leaves Delhi at 8:45 PM and arrived in Udaipur at 8 AM the next morning (Rs.1000 in AC2).
The taxi stand and auto-rickshaw stand are located near the exit of the railway station.
The advance reservation office is on Station Road, between the railway station and Sojati Gate. The office is open from Monday to Saturday from 8 am to 8 pm and on Sunday until 1.45 pm IST. If you are a foreign tourist, you can also buy Indrail passes in USD and reserve tickets at the International Tourist Bureau; this counter is located at the advance reservation office. You can also book your tickets online at IRCTC, the official booking site on the internet, from 4 am to 11 pm IST on all days.
By car
Approximate road distances from various destinations are
| Agra | 580 km |
| Ajmer | 200 km |
| Barmer | 220 km |
| Bikaner | 240 km |
| Jaipur | 345 km |
| Jaisalmer | 290 km |
| Mount Abu | 265 km |
| Mumbai | 1075 km |
| New Delhi | 590 km |
| Osiyan | 60 km |
| Ranakpur | 175 km |
| Udaipur | 275 km |
By taxi
Various tour operators and travel agencies offer chauferred car-taxi services; these are charged on a per km, per day basis. You can plan to take one to arrive into the city or take one for sightseeing in and around the city.
Buses to Jodhpur
Jodhpur can be reached by RSRTC (Rajasthan State Road Transport Corporation) buses and private luxury buses which operate from all major towns and cities in Rajasthan as well as the cities of Ahmedabad and Delhi.
Get around
Means of transport include
- Tourist Cabs (Taxis) - ply on a minimum distance/hour per day basis
- Auto Rickshaws (unmetered) - negotiate before you board one
- Tongas - horse driven carriages
- Mini buses - public transport is available but chaotic and not advisable except when on a shoestring budget
The narrow lanes of the inner walled city of Jodhpur are best traversed by Autos, but can also be explored by bicycle or motorcycle/scooter.
Jodhpur attractions and sightseeing
Mehrangarh Fort
Mehrangarh Fort [2] dominates the city and is the largest fort in all Rajasthan. Founded in 1458 as the site of Rao Jodha's new capital — hence the name, Jodhpur — the city has grown around it, and in the 500 years that have passed the fort has never been taken by force. It's easy to see why: it occupies the entire top of a 150-meter hill with commanding views all around, with some three kilometers of massive ramparts built around the edges.
The name "fort" belies the size of the complex, which houses the Maharaja's palace, several temples and, tucked away in the back, an extensive garden still farmed to this day. Highlights within the palace include:
- Moti Mahal (Pearl Hall). Pearl-colored inside and decorated with colored glass windows, this is where the Maharaja held his audiences, with the five alcoves on the far wall allowing his queens to listen in.
- Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Hall). Just what the name says.
- Phool Mahal (Flower Hall). The most extravagant of them all, this was the Maharaja's pleasure chamber, for dancing girls and revelry.
- Zenana Deodi. The inner sanctum of the palace once guarded by eunuchs, this is where the Maharaja's wives whiled away their days. The delicate sandstone screens and carvings are exquisite.
- Chamunda Mataji Temple. Tucked away at the far end of the battlements, this temple is devoted to Rao Jodha's favorite goddess and remains a local favorite to this day.
A number of people are employed here and there to add flavor by dressing in period costume and doing photogenic things like playing traditional instruments and smoke opium (yes, the real thing). Snap away, but they'll appreciate a tip if you do. The museum also includes galleries devoted to howdahs (elephant-mounted seats), palanquins, fine arts, weaponry, and the inevitable Turban Gallery.
Entry to Mehrangarh costs Rs.250, including still camera fee and an excellent audioguide available in six languages. A rickshaw from the city will cost around Rs.30, or you can try to pick your way through the alleys up on foot. Open 9 AM to 5 PM daily.
Historical sites
- Jaswant Thada, 1 km downhill from Mehrangarh (easily walked). Royal cenotaphs built in marble, with a picturesque location next to a little lake. Entry Rs. 20, plus Rs. 25 for a camera.
- Mandore, 7 km outside the city. The ancient capital of Marwar, before Jodhpur was built.
- Umaid Bhawan Palace. Clearly visible to the south of the city and completed only in 1944, this is the last great palace built in India. The Maharaja of Jodhpur lives here to this day, but half the building has been converted to a 5-star hotel (see Sleep) and there is also a small museum on grounds (Rs. 50, open 9 AM to 5 PM). You'll have to take a rickshaw to get here, and it's best to ask them to wait: figure on Rs. 100 for a round-trip with an hour's waiting time.
Natural sites
- Balsamand Lake - now converted to a resort
- Kailana Lake - a picnic spot and a main drinking water source for the city
Temples
- Baba Ramdev Temple, Masuria Hills.
- Ganesh Temple, Ratanada.
- Santoshi Mata Temple, Lal Sagar.
- Mahamandir Temple.
City tours
Learn
This is not a complete list of options, but just to indicate that if you wish to stay in this city for a longer period, there are a lot of options for education and learning.
- Jai Narain Vyas University (JNVU) offers undergraduate, graduate/postgraduate and doctoral courses. Formerly University of Jodhpur, estd 1962, took over 4 state run colleges Jaswant College, Shri Maharaj Kumar College, Kamal Nehru Girls college and MBM Engineering College.
Work
National Law University (http://www.nlujodhpur.ac.in/): This is one of four major Universities in India specializing in Law.
Shopping, Jodhpur souvenirs
The city's main shopping drag is Nai Sadak, lined mostly with sari and shoe shops and leading straight into Sardar Market, a full-on bustling Indian market with a barely contained riot of sights, sounds and stinks. The clocktower in the center is a useful orientation point. Popular souvenirs include:
- Bandhej sarees and dress material
- Mojris or Jootis. Shoes with a pointed front, a must-have accessory if you plan on dressing like a Rajput Maharaja.
- Handicrafts these are handmade (made to look like old antiques), the handicraft industry is a booming industry in this city.
One shop stands out from the crowd:
- National Handloom, Nai Sadak (and three other outlets around the city). A four-story shop easily identified by their logo of a gloriously mustachioed and turbaned man, the jumble of items inside is authentically Indian, but prices are cheap, clearly marked, and hassle-free. The fourth story houses handicrafts and art, with most of the rest devoted to clothes.
Good restaurants and cheap meals
Don't forget to try the Rajasthani delicacies
- Makhaniya Lassi — lassi (yoghurt drink) spiced up with cardamom and butter
- Mawa Kachori
- Panchkuta
- Dal Bati Churma
- Gatte ka saag
- Kabuli (a rice speciality)
- Mirchi Bada
Budget
- Cafe Mehran, Meherangarh Fort. Simple but pleasant cafe in the fort itself, with a range of tourist favorites from pizza to burgers as well as Indian thalis. Rs.60-140.
- Omelette Shop (aka Carib Hotel), just outside the gates to the main square. A bit of a cult favorite, although controversy and confusion have been stoked by a Lonely Planet recommendation, which has inspired signs all over the area claiming the mantle of the "real" Omelette Shop. Five yards away is the up and coming Vicky, whose omelettes are identical except for the noticeable increase in the amount of ginger. There is no place to sit, so don't come here expecting to relax with your omelette.
- Shahi Samosas, Nai Sawak (left side just before main gate to Sardar Market). Easily spotted thanks to the neverending queue, their samosas and kachoris are made in front of your eyes with generous amounts of stuffing. Rs.6-8.
Mid-range
- Mehran Terrace, Meherangarh Fort. Candlelit dining with an exquisite view of the city. Thalis are Rs 300-400. Book ahead.
Splurge
- Pillars, Umaid Bhawan Palace, [3]. Gorgeous setting in the countyard of the palace, and the quality of the food is very high -- as is the price: there's a Rs.1500 minimum for non-guests, and you can easily reach that with a main, an appetizer and a drink. Non-guests may be turned away if the hotel is full, so call ahead to avoid disappointment.
Jodhpur nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs.
Hotels, youth hostels, lodging
Budget
- Durag Niwas Guest House, tel. +91-291-2512385, [4]. Riotously colorful and comfortable family-run guesthouse in a quiet area of Jodhpur, a brisk stroll or 20-rupee rickshaw ride from the center of town. The owners speak excellent English and are happy to assist travellers. Basic fan rooms from Rs.150, free pickup from anywhere in town. Highly recommended.
- Hotel Karni Bhawan, Defence Lab Road, Ratnada
- Hotel Quality Inn Chandra, Panch Batti Circle, Airport Road
- Hotel Residency Palace, High Court Colony, Ratanada, +91 94141-27777 (hotel@hotelresidencypalace.com, fax +91 291-2640747), [5].
- Yogi's Guest House, Raj Purohitji ki Haveli, Naya Bas, Ph: (0291)2643436
Mid-range
- Heritage Hotel Ajit Bhawan Palace, Circuit House Road
- Heritage Hotel Balsamand Lake Palace, Mandore Road
- Pal Haveli, Gulab Sagar (near the clocktower), +91 291 329-3328, (info@palhaveli.com, mobile 98292-43247), [6]. Beautiful rooms in a heritage hotel-like atmosphere. A short (though steep) walk from Mehrangarh. Will arrange airport/train station pickup. Forget trying to book via the net though. Rs 1300-1500/1500-1800. (singles/doubles)
- Devi Bhawan, Defence Lab Road, Ratanada, +91 291 251-1067 (devibhawan@sify.com, reservations +91 98 2803-5359), [7]. A 90 year old heritage property with delightful rooms set around a lush garden. The rooms are decorated with period furniture and Rajasthani textiles. Only 1.5 Km from the centre of the town.
Splurge
- Umaid Bhawan Palace, Circuit House Road, +91 291 251=0101, (ubpresv.jodh@tajhotels.com, fax 91 291 2510100), [8]. This is a 5* hotel now managed by the Taj Hotels (earlier by ITC Welcomgroup) and is housed in the famous Umaid Bhawan Palace. The view is scenic and it has an underground swimming pool for the guests alongwith squash and tennis courts.
- Taj Hari Mahal, 5, Residency Road, +91 291 243-9700 (harimahal.jodhpur@tajhotels.com, fax 91 291 2614451/52), [9].
Contact
- Area Code: The telephone area code is 291.
If you are dialing into a Jodhpur number from outside India dial +91 291 xxxxxxx; if you are dialing into a Jodhpur number long distance from anywhere in India, prefix the area code by a 0 i.e. dial 0291 xxxxxxx; in Jodhpur just dial the 7 digit number xxxxxxx.
Stay safe
This is a comparatively safe city, however it is advisable not to venture out late in the night alone.
While travelling in trains or buses, avoid any snacks offered by seemingly well meaning strangers. There have been some incidents where tourists or even locals have been drugged and looted after consuming narcotic-laced biscuits or tea.
Beware of touts selling rail tickets or promising reservations on trains. It is a criminal offence to buy and sell tickets except from recognized agents or the reservation offices.
Cope
Get out
You can see the neighbouring tourist destinations of Osiyan temples, Ranakpur Jain temples, Nathdwara temple, Bikaner and Deshnok, Ajmer and Pushkar, the desert city of Jaisalmer, the hill station Mount Abu, the city of lakes Udaipur or the pink city Jaipur
- Bishnoi Village safari, +91 98 2803 5359 (rakesh_singhs@hotmail.com, devibhawan@sify.com). Bishnois are a community that protects wildlife and environment. In safari the guide will take you around the Bishnoi villages in a jeep and there you will see deer, blackbuck and chinkara roaming around their huts and playing with their childres and village people feeding them.it is a 70 km tour.
- Luni fort - about 40 kms outside Jodhpur - now converted to a heritage hotel
- Osiyan - about 60 kms - Jain temples as well as Kali temples
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