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TravelTips24 : Asia : East Asia : Japan : Hokkaido : Southern Circuit : Hakodate

Hakodate

Hakodate (函館) [1] is a large city in southern Hokkaido, Japan.


Culture and History

Hakodate is the largest city in southern Hokkaido. As one of the first cities in Japan to be opened to trade, like Yokohama and Kobe, there are some signs of foreign influence in Hakodate, notably architecture. Hakodate was also the capital of the short-lived Republic of Ezo (see box) in the aftermath of the Meiji Restoration.

Travel to Hakodate & Visa Requirements

Flights and airtickets to Hakodate

Hakodate Airport (函館空港 Hakodate kūkō, HKD) is 20 minutes by bus (¥300) from the train station. JAL and ANA offer nonstop service to Hakodate from Tokyo (Haneda), Osaka (Itami) and Nagoya (Chubu); Air Do (ADO) also flies the Tokyo route and offers slightly cheaper fares. There are turboprop flights to several other cities in Hokkaido, as well as daily Korean Air service to Seoul. Public transport from the airport is limited, although JR offers scheduled buses to Hakodate Station approximately every 20 minutes (20 min., ¥300).

Sapporo's busier Chitose Airport, 2-3 hours to the north by train, also offers a fairly convenient alternative.

By train

Currently, the fastest way to reach Hakodate by train from Tokyo is by a combination of Shinkansen and Limited Express trains, transferring between the two at Hachinohe station. The one-way trip lasts about 6 hours and costs almost ¥19,000. If you have a 7-Day Japan Rail Pass, you will save about ¥9,000 off of the total cost if you travel round-trip using this method.

The Shinkansen is inching slowly towards Hakodate. Construction of the Shinkansen extension from Hachinohe to Aomori will finish by 2010, and completion of the full stretch under the Seikan Tunnel to Hakodate is scheduled to open in 2015.

A popular way to reach Hakodate is by overnight sleeper train. Two Hokutosei (北斗星) sleeper trains depart daily from Ueno Station in Tokyo. The ride to Hakodate is between 12 and 14 hours in duration. The Cassiopeia (カシオペア) sleeper train also runs from Ueno to Hakodate a few times a week, but its cabins are more expensive than the Hokutosei. All three of these trains eventually continue to Sapporo.

The Nihonkai (日本海) overnight train from Osaka and Kyoto in Kansai runs as far as Aomori, from which you can connect to a limited express train for the run to Hakodate.

Trains to areas outside of Hakodate leave infrequently (compared to areas like Tokyo where trains come every few minutes) so plan ahead.

By boat

Hakodate's main ferry terminal is 4 km from the center and reachable on buses 1 and 19; a direct shuttle is also available between the ferry terminal and train station.

Major operator Higashi-Nihon Ferry [2] offers frequent services from Hakodate's port to Aomori. The high-speed Natchan-Rera (ナッチャンRera) hydrofoil, introduced in September 2007, links the two cities in 1 3/4 hours at a cost of ¥5000 each way in economy class, ¥6000 in business class and ¥10000 in executive class. There is also slower ferry service which takes almost four hours, starting from ¥1850 in second class. Departure times from Hakodate to Aomori on the hydrofoil are at 7:30, 12:30, 17:30 and 23:00, with ferry departures at 2:30, 10:00, 16:55 and 21:50.

Less frequent services operate to Oma (1:40, ¥1170) on the remote Shimokita Peninsula. There are two daily round-trips during most of the year, with additional round-trip runs during holiday periods.

Tours & Getting around Hakodate

Hakodate has a useful two-line streetcar network connected to the train station. Fares work similarly to medium-distance buses in other cities: take a ticket when you board, then pay as you get off based on the number on your ticket. If you are going to take the streetcar more than twice in one day, it is advisable to buy a one day pass from the driver when you get off (600 yen). A combination bus/streetcar pass is also available (one day 1000 yen, two days 1700 yen). Each pass comes with a map of the stops.

The streetcar's one-day pass can also be bought at the tourists information center inside the JR Hakodate station. When purchasing a one-day pass, make sure to check out the attached list of discount shops since it may come handy in your tour. (As of December 2007, a 10% discount was provided for the Hakodate ropeway and the Goryokaku tower).

There are two routes of steet car, namely, the number 2 route, and the number 5 route. Both routes runs from the same Yunokawa until it branches out in Jujigai.

Route map of street car route #2 is as follows. Note that the first three stations are different from route #5.
Yachigashira(谷地頭), Aoyagi-cho(青柳町), Horai-cho(宝来町), Jujigai(十字街), Uo ichiba-dori(魚市場通), Shiyakusho Mae(市役所前), Matsukaze-cho(松風町), Shinkawa-cho(新川町), Chitose-cho(千歳町), Showa-bashi(昭和橋), Horikawa-cho(堀河町), Chiyogadai(千代台), Chuobyoin Mae(中央病院前), Goryokaku Koen Mae(五稜郭公園前), Suginami-cho(杉並町), Kashiwagi-cho(柏木町), Fukabori-cho(深堀町), Keibajo Mae(競馬所前), Komabashako Mae(駒場車庫前), Shiminkaikan Mae(市民会館前), Yunokawa Onsen(湯の川温泉), Yunokawa(湯の川)

Route map of street car route #5 is as follows. Note that the first three stations are different from route #2.
Hakodate Dokku Mae(函館ドック前), Omachi(大町), Suehiro-cho(末広町), Jujigai(十字街), Uo ichiba-dori(魚市場通), Shiyakusho Mae(市役所前), Matsukaze-cho(松風町), Shinkawa-cho(新川町), Chitose-cho(千歳町), Showa-bashi(昭和橋), Horikawa-cho(堀河町), Chiyogadai(千代台), Chuobyoin Mae(中央病院前), Goryokaku Koen Mae(五稜郭公園前), Suginami-cho(杉並町), Kashiwagi-cho(柏木町), Fukabori-cho(深堀町), Keibajo Mae(競馬所前), Komabashako Mae(駒場車庫前), Shiminkaikan Mae(市民会館前), Yunokawa Onsen(湯の川温泉), Yunokawa(湯の川)

Hakodate attractions and sightseeing

  • Mount Hakodate (函館山 Hakodate-yama, 334m). Offers spectacular views of the city of Hakodate in clear weather and offers, according to locals, one of the Three Best Night Views of not merely Japan but the entire world (the other claimants being Naples and Hong Kong). A ropeway [3] will take you up for ¥640/1160 one-way/return, buses are cheaper but more boring.
  • Fort Goryokaku (五稜郭) (streetcar Goryokaku-koen-mae stop). Completed in 1864, this was Japan's first Western-style fortress and finished just in time for it to be occupied by the Ezo Republic as their headquarters. It never saw any action though, as the rebels surrendered peacefully. Most of the fort was consequently demolished and this is now a large park and popular cherry-blossom spot in spring. The fort also houses a small museum with exhibits on local history (rotating each year).
  • From the 90-meter viewing platform of nearby Goryokaku Tower, you can get a striking view of the star-shaped fort. Neat dioramas tell the story of the the Enomoto and Ezo Republic (see sidebox), and the role of the fort in Hakodate's history; an English pamphlet is available. The views from Goryokaku Tower is different on each season. In spring, you can enjoy seeing 1,600 cherry blossoms and the view from the tower is a best place to see them. However, it takes at least 3 hours to go up the tower in cherry blossom season because of the crowds. In summer, you can enjoy full green trees, and in fall you can enjoy the changing leaves. In winter, Goryokaku is covered with snow and is illuminated at night. Adults ¥840, child discounts.
  • Motomachi (元町), located near the foot of Mount Hakodate, is the historical district of the city. One popular attraction is the Old Public Hall (旧公会堂 Kyu-kokai-do), a European-style building which housed the Hakodate government in the early 1900's. The various churches and consulates in the area, dating to the early days of foreign trade with Japan, are also frequented by tourists.
  • Russian Orthodox Church
  • Roman Catholic Church
  • Episcopal Church
  • Red Brick Warehouses built at the end of the Meiji era now house a variety of commercial facilities.
  • A night view of Hakodate can be seen from the The Blue Moon bay cruise. Located at the vicinity of the red brick warehouses.

Hakodate city tours

  • Hakodate's biggest festival is the yearly Port Festival, held from August 1st to 6th and known for its festive Squid Dance (Ika-odori).
  • Hakodate Christmas Fantasy (December 1 to 25) - A giant Christmas tree is displayed on the sea in the red-brick warehouses area during the festival each year. Nearest streetcar stop is Jujigai (十字街).

Hakodate souvenirs & shopping

  • Morning Market (朝市 asa-ichi) Crammed into a couple of bayfront buildings, rows of vendors sell a variety of seafood, but the main attraction is the huge selection of Hokkaido's famous crabs. Open 5 AM (6 AM in the winter) until noon. Next to the market are a number of restaurants, most of which specialize in seafood-topped donburi (rice bowl). Near the JR Station and the streetcar Hakodate Eki-mae (函館駅前) stop.
  • Glasswares and musicboxes can be bought at the old Meijikan Post Office (明治館 meiji-kan). Meijikan is situated near the vicinity of the red brick warehouses (akarenga) and the Hakodate Beer Hall. Get off at the streetcar's jujigai(十字街) stop.

Hakodate Restaurants: cheap, moderate and expensive

Hakodate's signature fish is squid and its signature dish is Hakodate shio rāmen(not to be confused with shioyuu ramen), a version of the ubiquitous noodle dish prepared with — you guessed it — squid stock instead of the usual pork. Nearby Mori-machi is also reputed to have Japan's finest ika-meshi, rice-stuffed squid.

  • Hakodate Beer Hall (函館ビヤホール) Suehiromachi 14-12 (末広町14番12) 0138-27-1010, fax 0138-27-1256. Open 11:30 AM to 10:30 PM. [4] (in Japanese). This food-and-beer restaurant in the akarenga area incorporates the red brick warehouse atmosphere into its interior design. The large food menu includes a good selection of seafood dishes, and there are a couple of locally-brewed beers on tap. English menu with pictures.
  • Hokuhokutei (北北停) Hondori 1-4-20 (本通1丁目44-20) (across the street from two-steeple eyeglass store), 0138-31-0770. Lunch 11 AM to 3 PM, dinner 4 PM to 10 PM. [5] (in Japanese). This sushi restaurant, a short walk from Fort Goryokaku, is a good value for lunch when all plates are ¥129.

Hakodate nightlife, bars, clubs & pubs

There are two main drinking districts in Hakodate, Daimon, which is close to the station, and Goryokaku, in particular Hon-Cho. Foreigners seem to be more catered to in the Goryokaku area.

  • Bagus. A surfer-style bar open 'til morning.
  • Bar Big Job (behind Hokuyo-Ginko bank). An English-style standing room only bar.
  • FBI. (behind Marui-Imai department store) Opened in 2007 and run by westerners - Hakodate's only 'gaijin bar'. No charge and drinks from ￥500. www.fbi-hakodate.com
  • Eiley's. An Irish pub.

Hakodate cheap and luxurious hotels, youth hostels & lodging

  • Oyado Aozora Inn (おやど青空), [6]. A 2 minutes walk from the Hakodate station. It is a cozy inn with clean tatami rooms run by an English speaking Japanese lady. Laundry available and the internet in the lounge area is free.
  • Minshuku Sumitomo-Inn (民宿住友), [7][8]. Five blocks (or street lights) straight on from Hakodate station, or take the bus to Omori-cho. Rooms are typical Japanese 15-tatami Spartan minshuku-style, bathroom included. In 2007, management did not speak English (despite its website having an English page).
  • Toyoko Inn , [9]. There are two of these hotels in Hakodate (Asaichi and Daimon) and both are within easy walking distance of Hakodate station. They offer very convenient and cheap rooms but lack the 'Japanese experience' you may get from other options. Rooms can be reserved online through an English website.

Get out

  • Lake Onuma, half an hour to the north by express train, offers a pleasant quick gateway. If you wish to go to Lake Onuma by local train, make sure to check the train schedule since local trains come every 2 hours or so.
  • Matsumae, an hour and a half drive from Hakodate along the coast, has the only castle in Hokkaido, which is in Matsumae park, famed in southern Hokkaido (Minami Hokkaido) for excellent cherry blossom viewing in late April/early May.
  • Esan, known for its Tsutsuji (Azalea) festival in June, is about a 45 minute car ride from Hakodate, also mostly along the coast, but in the direction opposite of Matsumae.

This page was last edited at 00:29, on 20 August 2008 by Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel. Based on work by Matthew, Jose Ramos, Benedick Mark Chan, Emily, Lee Bissett, Jani Patokallio and Colin Jensen, Wikitravel user(s) Texugo, Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel and others.

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