Guatemala
Guatemala is a country in the Central America region of North America. It has borders to Mexico in the north/north-west, to Belize in the north-east, to Honduras in the south-east, to El Salvador in the south. It also has a Pacific coastline to the south-west, and a tiny piece of Caribbean coastline to the east.
Regions
- Central Highlands: Around Guatemala City
- Western Highlands: Many modern Maya towns
- Caribbean Coast: Hot and steamy
- Petén: Hot jungle in the north, with most impressive ancient Maya ruins
- Pacific Highlands: Hot, going down to the Pacific beaches
Cities
- La Antigua Guatemala: Colonial Spanish capital of Central America, a World Heritage site, and the most popular amongst tourists
- Panajachel: Doorway to Lake Atitlán, paradise on Earth, and its surrounding towns.
- Cobán: In Alta Verapaz
- Escuintla
- Flores: Island city capital of Petén
- Guatemala City: Capital and largest city with many amenities
- Huehuetenango
- Melchor de Mencos: Border city
- Puerto Barrios: Caribbean seaport
- Puerto San José: Pacific seaport
- Quetzaltenango: Second largest city, in the western highlands
- Sayaxché: River gateway in Peten
- Santiago Atitlán: Small town on the southern shore of Lake Atitlán
Other destinations
- Chichicastenango: Highland Maya town famous for its traditional market
- Lake Atitlán: Beautiful lake in the mountains surrounded by picturesque villages and volcanos, which is becoming more and more touristic
- Panajachel, small tourist-oriented town that is good starting point for Lake Atitlán
- Santiago Atitlán, small town on south side of Lake Atitlán, famous for a shrine to Maximón
- San Pedro la Laguna (also known as San Pedro de Laguna), small town on southwest side of Lake Atitlán, offering low-cost living, great views, and a modest Spanish-language training industry
- Lake Izabal
- Livingston: Caribbean coast town with Garifuna culture
- Monterrico: The beach closest to Guatemala City and Antigua
Maya ruins
- Aguateca
- Cancuén
- Ceibal
- Dos Pilas
- El Mirador
- El Peru/Waká
- El Zotz
- Gumarcaj: Also known as Utatlán, near Santa Cruz del Quiche
- Iximché
- Mixco Viejo
- Nakbé
- Nakúm
- Naranjo
- Piedras Negras
- Quiriguá: Impressive Classic Maya sculptures
- San Bartolo Pre-Classic Mural
- Tikal: The Largest of Maya ruins, this ancient Maya site is probably worth the trip to Guatemala by itself.
- Uaxactun
- Yaxhá
- Zaculeu: Near Huehuetenango
Volcanoes
- Volcán Tacaná (4093m)
- Volcán Tajumulco (4220m)
- Volcán Santa María (3772m)
- Volcán Atitlán (3537m)
- Volcán Acatenango (3976m)
- Volcán de Ipala (1650m)
- Volcán de Pacaya (2500m) - this is an active volcano about 30 minutes outside of Antigua. Some days it will not be accessible as the volcano may be too active to observe safely. Bring a jacket since it will be windy and cold at the top (although the ground will feel warm) and wear long pants as the volcanic rock can easily give you a nice cut.
- Volcán San Pedro (3450m)
Culture and History
Guatemala has a rich and distinctive culture from the long mix of elements from Spain and the native Maya people. This diverse history and the natural beauty of the land has created a destination rich in interesting and scenic sites.
When to go
It is difficult to travel in the more remote areas during the rainy season between mid-May to mid-October and into mid-November in the north.
The elaborate ceremonies in Antigua the week leading up to Easter are a highlight.
The months of March and April are very hot especially in the low lying areas such as the pacific coastal plain.
Money
The local currency is the Quetzal which is named after the national bird, which has ancient and mythic connotations even still. US dollars are widely accepted and can be exchanged in most small towns. There seemed to be a shortage of small denomination notes and coins (december 2006 - february 2007) which are essential if you want to eat from street vendors or shop in markets. Change your larger notes at every opportunity and try not to spend your change. Often store owners lie to you, claiming that they do not have change so be persistent. ATMs can be found in the major towns but do not expect to find them in every tourist spot. It is fairly easy to find your self in a town without an ATM or a place to change money.
Do not expect to be able to easily exchange travelers checks to Guatemala. You might find a few places willing to accept checks issued by American Express but all other types are universally turned down. Amazingly even major banks in Guatemala City do not accept VISA travelers checks.
Travel to Guatemala, visa requirements
Flights to Guatemala, airtickets
Guatemala's main airport, La Aurora International Airport (GUA), is near Guatemala City. International flights arrive mostly from other Central American countries and North America.
Guatemala's secondary airport is situated in Flores, Petén. This small airport receives flights from a small number of close destinations including Belize, Mexico City and Guatemala City.
It is sometimes cheaper to fly into Cancun and take buses through Belize or to fly into Mexico City and then take a low-cost airlines flight on Aviacsa for around $100 USD to Tapachula which is the Mexico/Guatemala border.
By car
From Mexico, or Honduras, El Salvador, via Pan-American Highway, also possible with more difficulty from Belize.
The small, three-wheeled tuk-tuk is a common vehicle providing local taxi service. It can carry up to three passengers. You will need to negotiate your fare with the driver before you start, because they generally don't have meters. The tuk-tuk originates from India, and can be found in many developing countries. The name refers to the sound of the motorcycle engine powering the vehicle.
Buses to Guatemala
From Belize City to Flores (9 hours) and Guatemala City (20+ hours).
El Salvador: San Salvador, Santa Ana
Honduras: Copan, San Pedro Sula, La Ceiba, Tegucigalpa
Nicaragua: Managua
Costa Rica: San José
Panama: Panama City
Mexico: Tapachula, Palenque, Chetumal, Tulum, Cancun, Mexico City
Tica Bus is a bus company that has newer buses and mainly travels between Central American countries with limited stops.
It's hard to miss the colourfully-decorated buses that crowd the streets of major cities and highways of Guatemala. These are chicken buses, and are a common form of travel for Guatemalans and a travel adventure for tourists. They are much cheaper than tourist vans or taxis (example: a 10km drive from Antigua to the countryside costs Q2.75 as of December 2005). They are usually very crowded, with three people squeezed into seats designed to seat two North American children, and more people standing in the aisles. The bus itself is frequently a used North American school bus; the "Blue Bird" and "Ford" logos are clearly visible. In addition to the driver there is usually a conductor standing in the door. The conductor collects fares, and from time to time jumps out to direct the bus through a blind intersection or around a tight turn. On the highways, the chicken bus drivers are aggressive, not hesitating to overtake in the face of oncoming traffic.
Bus conductors frequently charge non-latino tourists 2-3 times more than latino tourists. If you speak Spanish and are persistent, they often will let you pay the same as everyone else. Sending a message to the Guatemala tourism department "Inguat" will let them know of this problem.
You can board a chicken bus almost anywhere along its route. If you put out your arm, it will stop. You board and find a space to sit or stand. The conductor will come back to you after the bus is underway, and collect your fare. You need to recognise where your stop is, and move to the door in time. You ask the bus to stop, more or less wherever you want to get off.
By boat
Puerto Barrios and Livingston, from Punta Gorda, Belize
Get around
By car or bus, airplane to the Peten.
Many regular intercity buses.
Tourist Shuttles are 10 times more expensive than regular buses (including intercity buses).
Guatemala City: Try the local trolley, Chiltepe Tours (www.chiltepe.com), departing at 10:00 and 13:00 hours from hotels in zone 10, visiting the historic downtown of Guatemala City, with one stop at the National Palace, and one at Museo Popol Vuh. Duration, approximately 3 hours.
Be leery of ayudantes (the bus helpers hanging out of the front door yelling) charging foreigners extra. Listen to what others are paying and insist that you pay the same amount.
Tour operators
- Ixcanan Travel, [1]. A Dutch based company in Guatemala, specialized in tailor made trips, adventure, live cuture, nature and ecotourism tour. This company has a extended network of quality providers in the country. It offers also services to Cancun, Honduras and Belize.
- AdventureSmith Guatemala Travel, [2]. A California based tour operator specializing in expedition cruises and wilderness adventures. Trips are geared toward active travelers, nature and culture enthusiasts. Costs begin at $1299 per week.
- Mayan Travel, [3]. A Canadian and Guatemalan based tour operator specializing in expedition in Guatemala, hotel bookings. Offers customized trips, and daily trips to Tikal.
- Mundo Guatemala, [4]. Antigua-based tour operator for Guatemala and Central America, with tailor-made travel for individuals and groups which is distinct, personal, and out-of-the-ordinary. Options include: short excursions (1-3 days) to 8-day and longer trips with focus on Mayan culture and traditions, relaxation, archeology, nature and/or soft adventure. Can also arrange Spanish lessons and homestay. Also offers trips to Belize, Honduras, El Salvador, Mexico, Costa Rica or Cuba.
- Turansa Travel Agency & Tour Operator, [5]. Antigua based tour operator specializing in the design, promotion, operation of guided tours and independent travel services to Guatemala and Central America.
Meso-American-Lords is a guatemala tour operator, located in guatemala city. tours to maya markets, volcanoes, maya cities, lakes, rivers and caves. contact us: infguate@yahoo.com
Talk
Spanish is the official language of Guatemala, and the most commonly spoken. Over twenty indigenous languages are still spoken throughout, but many of the Maya people have at least a working knowledge of basic Spanish as well. For the Garifuna people in Livingston, Garifuna and English are the main languages (but Spanish is spoken as well).
The most familiar form of Spanish spoken among good friends is the "tú/vos" form, but varies between regions. It is considered rude and very informal if used with someone that you do not know. As a tourist, it is safer to stick with the "usted" form. However, don't be surprised if some homestay families and some language teachers jump right into using the "tu/vos" form. If they do, you may respond in kind.
Shopping, Guatemala souvenirs
The national currency is Quetzal(es). The rate of change is approximately 7.6 Quetzales for 1 US Dollar (January 2007). It is not common to use dollars in tourist areas. You will most likely have difficulties in changing other currencies than US Dollars, but Euros are becoming increasingly more common.
It is common to bargain for most purchases in the open air market. Though you may be able to bargain in other places, be aware you are no more likely to bargain in a Guatemalan Radio Shack than an American one.
Things to buy in Guatemala
- Ron Zacapa Centenario, Guatemalas prize-winning rum
- Fabrics and Traditional textiles: Traditional mayan blouses are known as huipiles (whi-peel) and skirts cortes. Be aware that these are almost always entirely handmade and prices for a high-end huipil may be as high as Q1000.
- Jade - large jade factory in Antigua, very expensive though
- Coffee - touted as one of the best-tasting varieties in the world
- Cardamom - the largest exporter in the world, Coban in Alta Verapaz is the capital of this trade.
Good restaurants and cheap meals
Typical food: Kaq Ik, Pepián, tortillas, frijoles negros (stewed black beans), caldos (beef broths), eggs, rice, and some meat.
The type of food really depends on how much you want to spend and what type of place you want to spend it at. You can get almost any type of food at the main tourist locations (Antigua, Guatemala City, etc.). In the aldeas (small towns) your choices will obviously be limited to what has been listed above.
Guatemala nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs.
Guatemalans usually dress down when they go out.
See Staying Healthy section below.
All Coca-Cola and Pepsi type products are available plus many products from local soft drink manufacturers.
Guatemala has four primary beer varieties; Gallo (which is the most popular with Guatemalans), Victoria, Brahva, and Moza (The only dark beer).
Guatemala produces a number of rums, including the superb Ron Zacapa Centenario (Aged 23 years).
Hotels, youth hostels, lodging
You will likely find cheap hotels in every town or village in Guatemala. There are also many high quality hotels for those seeking additonal comfort and amenities. See the individual destination articles for hotel listings.
Learn
Guatemala is a great place to learn Spanish. The prices are low, and Guatemalan Spanish is considered pleasing. Antigua has the highest number of Spanish schools and is also the most popular place for tourists. But if studying Spanish is your main concern, you might be better off elsewhere, because you can actually go around in Antigua for a whole day without hearing anything but English.
Because of this, many language students head towards San Pedro la Laguna, seated by Lake Atitlan, where a wide range of language schools also offer Spanish language courses (some quite inexpensive). But as in Antigua the quality of the lessons might not be up to what expect, so ask around.
Instead Try Quetzaltenango which is considered now (2005) as the educative tourist destination of Guatemala. Another option is to look among other less touristed cities and villages for other quality schools.
Work
There are vaious volunteering opportunities in Guatemala as well.
- Proyecto Mosaico Guatemala (PMG)[6] will, for a fee, set you up with an organisation in Guatemala which needs a volunteer. They also can arrange a home stay, Spanish language classes, and other services.
- Casa Alianza Guatemala[7] welcomes enquiries from potential volunteers who want to "help provide care and assistance to, and protect the human rights of, the children and adolescents who live on the streets of Latin America."
- Some schools organise social projects as well. See, for example, the Guate Spanish school's entry under Quetzaltenango.
- Entremundos [8] is said to organize local NGOs.
- CARE is said to organise volunteer projects in Guatemala [9].
Stay safe
NEVER EVER take photos of children without permission. Some Guatemalans are extremely paranoid about this, and will assume you are a kidnapper (even if children aren't theirs). Not trusting the police, they often take matters into their own hands -- including murder. Of course, this doesn't include a few children mixed in with many adults at a distance. This occurs mainly on the inner Guatemalan villages. In the major cities people are somewhat more open towards picture taking, but don't overdo it.
It is dangerous to travel on some of the major roads after dark. One of the best things about Guatemala is the abundance of natural beauty and numerous treks. Some of these are notorious for robberies ( ex. Volcan de Agua, trails around Lago de Atitlan, Volcan de Pacaya. Always ask around about the situation before embarking blindly. Inguat, locals, and fellow travellers are safe bets for information. Travelling in groups during daylight sometimes decreases the risk, but not always. Dangerous traffic. You will encounter many 1 lane roads (1 lane each way) and drivers are apt to swerve back and forth, avoiding potholes and bumps along the way. There are also various multiple lane highways. Traffic in Guatemala City and surrounding metropolitan areas during rush hour is very slow, but general driving everywhere is usually very fast (average speeds of up to 60 mph in some city roads). High crime rate (especially in Guatemala City. Avoid zone 18, zone 19.).
Although some say that travellers should always carry a bit of extra cash and be prepared to bribe a few police officers, most tourists will have no reason to give bribes to anyone. The most likely situations in which you might have to bribe police would be if you're driving a car or riding a motorcycle and are stopped for fictitious violations of traffic rules. Most European/North Americans find it immoral but its much easier to spend 50 Quetzales and avoid the headaches than to be harassed by the police. Phrases such as "I'm sorry officer. Is there any way we can resolve this right now?" work well. Do not offer bribes directly to an officer because it is illegal and you could actually end up in more trouble.
Keep any important documents or items (passports, wallets, etc.) in your front pocket or close to your person.
Stay healthy
Only drink purified water (agua pura).
CDC states that malaria risk exists in rural areas at altitudes lower than 1,500 meters, with no risk in Antigua or Lake Atitlán.
Dengue fever is endemic throughout Guatemala.
Hepatitis A&B vaccinations are recommended.
Respect
Address people you don't know in a formal manner (Señor, Señora, Usted), and greet people in the following way:
- day - "buenos dias" "feliz dia"
- night- "feliz noche" "buenas noches"
You'll encounter this in more suburban, rural areas. Native guatemalans are raised to greet strangers formally.
Contact
Guatemalas international calling code is 502. There are no area codes. Phone numbers all have eight digits. On September 18, 2004, the phone system switched from seven to eight digits, and there is a scheme for adding specific digits to the front of seven-digit numbers (WTNG.info description).
The phone system isn't great, but it works. Tourists can call abroad from call centers, where you pay by the minute. Typically, the cost is around 8 quetzals for a 10 min call to North America. Cell phones are quite cheap and calling to the US through one can get as low as $0.08 a min. If you are planning to stay for a while and plan to use the phone, you should consider buying a cheap prepaid phone. Wireless nation-wide internet access for laptops is also available as a service from some companies. Telefonica has good coverage with their PCMCIA EV-DO cards.
The post system is traditionally not reliable, but your post cards usually get through. A stamp for Europe is Q5. Internet access is not widely available, though you may find internet cafes in the tourist friendly areas - Antigua, Atitlan, etc. Some hotels may also offer computer banks with internet access. The exception to this is Guatemala City. Several cafes and restaurants now offer free WiFi. Just ask and you eventually will find some sort of free access.
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