Illinois >> Chicagoland >> Chicago >> South Chicago Shore

The South Chicago Shore is a district in Chicago's South Side, which includes the Oakland, Kenwood, Hyde Park, and Woodlawn community areas.

Culture and History

The South Chicago Shore is the place to go on the South Side of Chicago — it has a wealth of stuff to see and do. Architecture fans will have their hands occupied by the many Victorian mansions and Prairie School houses, anyone with an intellectual bent should be delighted by Hyde Park's independent bookstores, overawed by the University of Chicago's terrifying intensity, and intrigued by the Oriental Institute, and just about everyone will enjoy a trip to the stimulating Museum of Science and Industry or relaxing in Jackson Park or the beach. The area is predominantly African-American, with the notable exception of the areas centered around the University of Chicago and 57th St.

Neighborhoods

Oakland and Kenwood (the areas north of Hyde Park Boulevard/51st St) are basically residential "mixed-income" neighborhoods with a lot of Victorian mansions and several homes by Frank Lloyd Wright and other "Prairie School" architects. Kenwood, in particular, developed into one of Chicago's most upscale suburbs after the Civil War, and its Kenwood Historic District between Cottage Grove & Blackstone and 47th & 51st is a treasure trove of mansions representing virtually all the fashionable architectural styles of the late 19th century. The mansion owners are of interest too — their ranks currently include Reverend Louis Farrakhan, the Obama family, and the city's oldest Jewish community. Former residents range from the infamous Leopold and Loeb, Muhammad Ali, the fictional Dalton family from Native Son, and the founder of the Nation of Islam, Elijah Muhammad.

The Hyde Park neighborhood is the biggest draw here. The neighborhood is dominated by the rather awesome presence of the University of Chicago. During the 1950s — when African-American immigration to the South Side sparked a massive "white flight," which transformed the racial make up of nearly the entire South Side from all white to all black — the University of Chicago used its financial power, political clout, and social engineering brainpower to muscle through the city's first "urban renewal" project. This project, unflatteringly referred to by many neighborhood residents as "urban removal," used eminent domain powers to demolish urban housing developments, to remove nightclubs and bars, and to make the neighborhood more suburban in character (and to decimate 55th St west of the railroad).

The end result of the University-driven "renewal" project is that Hyde Park is to this day one of the nation's most durable mixed-income, mixed-race neighborhoods, and is home to one of the only significant white communities for miles on the South Side. Hyde Park seems to employ "buffer zones" to maintain its unusual characteristics: giant Washington Park to the west, frigid-in-the-winter Midway Plaisance to the south, and persistent redevelopment projects in Kenwood to the north.

Today, Hyde Park is full of amazing bookstores, leafy streets, the siren song of cheap greasy food, great museums, and more Nobel Prizes per square kilometer than any other neighborhood on Earth.

Woodlawn (south of the Midway) is the neighborhood within this district that is really suffering from urban blight. Characterized by high levels of violent crime (especially by the 63rd street Green Line stops) and generally deficient in commercial activity, Woodlawn is well off the beaten tourist path. But Jackson Park (as well as the areas of Woodlawn close to the park) is perfectly safe, and a beautiful place for a walk. 63rd Street still has a few remaining businesses from its salad days and the area right near the Skyway has a few good places to eat and drink, but neither are great places to hang out after dark.

Travel to Chicago - South Chicago Shore - Visa Requirements

Buses to Chicago - South Chicago Shore

You can get to Hyde Park by taking several CTA buses from downtown Chicago. Routes #6 (Hyde Park Express) and #4 (Cottage Grove) are common choices. The 55/Garfield bus is a very cheap and efficient way to travel between Midway Airport and Hyde Park. It passes by the University of Chicago and terminates at the Museum of Science and Industry. To get from place to place within the area, CTA offers several useful neighborhood routes between the University and other points in the district.[1]

By train

The Metra Main Electric Line is the most efficient public transport between the Loop and the South Chicago Shore. It is a quick 15-20 minute ride and costs just over $2 for a one way trip. Be sure to check the train schedules[2] ahead of time, however, because it runs infrequently during off-peak times. Key stops are at Kenwood/47th St, Hyde Park 53rd St, 55th-56th-57th St, Univ. of Chicago/59th St, and 63rd St.

Alternatively, the CTA Red Line and Green Line link the Loop with Garfield Avenue in Washington Park and are a better option for late night travel since they run more frequently, and operate 24 hours a day. The two stops are, however, too far from Hyde Park to walk (and you probably wouldn't want to be in that section of town late at night), but the 55/Garfield bus will take you straight from either of them to anywhere along 55th St.

By car

Coming south on Lake Shore Drive, it's most convenient to take the southbound exit at 51st Street/Hyde Park Boulevard for a drive in Kenwood or a trip to the downtown section of Hyde Park on 53rd Street, or the 57th Street exit for the Museum of Science and Industry and the University. Coming from the southeast on the Chicago Skyway, get off early at the Stony Island Avenue exit and follow it north through Jackson Park on to Cornell Drive. From the Dan Ryan Expressway, you'll definitely want to take the 55th Street/Garfield Boulevard east exit, which will take you into the heart of Hyde Park through Washington Park.

A car is not a bad way to see the South Chicago Shore, especially if you plan to cover a lot of territory. Free on-street parking is reasonably easy to find. The most difficult area to park is without question the area around the University of Chicago, where the street parking is limited and policed with an iron fist by the University Police. Even in this area, however, it is usually possible (if a bit frustrating) to find free parking, or to just pay at one of the big university or hospital lots. Try looking on the west side of Cottage Grove Avenue or in the less safe area south of the Midway. It can also be difficult to find parking right by the Museum of Science and Industry during tourist season, but if you are willing to walk a few blocks from the north, you should do just fine.

Chicago - South Chicago Shore tourist attractions and sightseeing

Kenwood Historic District

These impressive structures are all privately owned and unfortunately closed to the public. The two exceptions are the Nation of Islam mosque and the KAMII temple, but you should be sensitive to the fact these are places of worship and are not accustomed to tourists.

  • 4944 S Woodlawn, 4944 S Woodlawn Ave. A gargantuan 8,000 square foot Tudor revival mansion once owned by Muhammad Ali. 
  • Drexel Fountain, at Hyde Park Blvd & Drexel Ave. This ornate fountain that stands in the tiny Drexel Square Park is the oldest in Chicago—indeed, it was one of the first monuments erected in the Chicago area. Commissioned by a wealthy stockbroker by the name of Francis Drexel, who managed to get the avenue, square, and fountain all named after himself without ever setting foot in Chicago. 
  • Elijah Muhammad House, 4855 S Woodlawn Ave. The former home of Elijah Muhammad, the founder of the Nation of Islam, and the home to the NoI's current firebrand leader, Louis Farrakhan. Check out the beautiful stained glass windows, as well as all the N.O.I. security! 
  • Isidore Heller House, 5132 S Woodlawn. One of Frank Lloyd Wright's earliest distinctive buildings (1897), often credited as the turning point in his early career when he shifted to the Prairie School. 
  • KAMII(KAM Isaiah Israel), 5039 S Greenwood Ave, +1 773 924-1234, [3]. It looks like a Byzantine style mosque, but that minaret is actually a smokestack for this synagogue. The building was built in 1924 for the reform Isaiah Israel congregation, which later merged with Chicago's oldest Jewish congregation, Kehilath Anshe Ma'ariv (KAM), which in turn moved out of its massive temple on Drexel Avenue. The interior is marvelously elaborate, if you manage to get inside. 
  • Masjid Al-Faatir, 1200 E 47th St, +1 773 548-3524(info@masjidal-faatir.com), [4]. Masjid Al-Faatir is the largest and most impressive of Chicago's 20 African-American mosques. It was built in 1987 by one of Elijah Muhammad's sons with generous support from local Muhammad Ali (the boxer). 
  • McGill Mansion, 4938 S Drexel Ave. Easily mistaken for a French Castle, this mansion was built in 1893 for the Scottish McGill family, which founded the famous Montreal University of the same name. The mansion was converted into 34 condos in 2000. 
  • Operation Push HQ, 930 E 50th St, +1 773 373-3366(fax: +1 773 373-3571), [5]. The enormous classical revival building at 50th & Drexel is the national headquarters of Jesse Jackson's RainbowPUSH organization. The building's facade might lead you to expect a Lincoln-sized statue of the reverend inside, but this was actually a Jewish synagogue founded in 1932 by the aforementioned KAM. 
  • The Obama House, 5046 Greenwood Ave(right across the street from KAMII). This pretty house is home to the Obama family of the current Democratic Presidential Nominee Barack Obama. It's the last house on the right heading south on Greenwood (one-way). The vacant lot to the left was the source of minor controversy in Chicago, when it came out that the Obama family had received it at sub-market rates from friend and criminal real estate broker Tony Rezko. You'll notice, despite the much touted media characterizations of their house as a "Hyde Park white-porticoed mansion," it's not actually in Hyde Park, and while a nice big house, it's no mansion. While they are still living here, though, you're not likely to get anywhere close. 

University of Chicago

  • Main Campus, 5801 S Ellis Ave(Centered around the main quad between Ellis Ave and University Ave, 57th St and the Midway), +1 773 702-1234, [6]. One of the world's great universities, the University of Chicago's Gothic campus exudes academic rigor and intellectual intensity. Its astonishing buildings make it a must-see for architecture fans. Prospective students and parents and curious visitors alike may take advantage of its free campus tours. 
  • David and Alfred Smart Museum of Art, 5550 S Greenwood Ave, +1 773 702-0200(smart-museum@uchicago.edu, fax: +1 773 702-3121), [7]. T W F 10AM-4PM, Th 10AM-8PM, Sa-Su 11AM-5PM. The University art museum has a wide and large collection of art.Free.  
  • Joseph Regenstein Library, 1100 E 57th St, +1 773 702-8740, [8]. If you are not a student and are not on a tour, you can't enter the gigantic collection of over 4.5 million volumes, but you can marvel at the exterior architecture. The building is one of the world's best examples of the Brutalist movement, which emphasized the structural materials (rough concrete in this case), as well as striking repetitions and irregularities of angular forms. 
  • Nuclear Energy Statue, 5700 S Ellis Ave. This Henry Moore statue marks the area where Enrico Fermi and his team of scientists successfully produced the first controlled nuclear chain reaction. Although probably unintended, it looks a lot like either a human skull or a mushroom cloud. 
  • Oriental Institute Museum, 1155 E 58th St, +1 773 702-9514(oi-administration@uchicago.edu), [9]. T Th F Sa 10AM-6PM, W 10AM-8:30PM, Su noon-6PM.. The University of Chicago Oriental Institute has one of the best collections of ancient Egyptian and Near Eastern archeology in the world, which is moreover free, small, very well exhibited, and basically started by Indiana Jones. Some highlights include: much of the Assyrian "Fortress of Sargon," a colossal statue of King Tutankhamun, and the Mummy and Coffin of Meresamun. Visitors with a strong interest may want to devote several hours to pore over the exhibits, but the small museum can be quickly "skimmed" in 15 minutes.Free, suggested donation $5 adult, $2 child.  
  • Rockefeller Memorial Chapel, 5850 S Woodlawn Ave, +1 773 702-2100, [10]. 8AM-4PM, tours of the carillon: M-F 11:30AM and 5:30PM. This giant Gothic church is named for the University founder, John D. Rockefeller, who intended it to be the "central and dominant feature" of the University. It may not be that, but it is impressive, with a huge organ and the second largest carillon in the world.Free.  

Other attractions

  • Hyde Park Art Center(HPAC), 5020 S Cornell Ave, +1 773 324-5520(generalinfo@hydeparkart.org, fax: +1 773 324-6641), [11]. M-Th 9AM-8PM, F-Sa 9AM-5PM, Su noon-5PM. The oldest alternative art venue in the city is dedicated to the visual arts, usually has several contemporary exhibits running at any given time, and frequent events like artist talks, poetry readings, and music performances. 
  • Jackson Park, 6401 S Stony Island Ave, +1 773 256-0903. 7AM-11PM daily. Named for President Andrew Jackson and the site of the World's Columbian Exposition in 1890. The most prominent monument remaining from the event is the fully gilded "Statue of the Republic." Other sites include the Osaka Garden on the Wooded Island and a series of lagoons designed by Frederick Law Olmsted. 
  • Osaka Garden(Japanese Garden), (On the northeast side of Jackson Park's Wooded Island). Sunrise-sunset, daily. The Osaka Garden grew out of the Pavilion for the Japanese Government at the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition and was planned by Olmsted as well. During WWII, the gardens suffered from repeated anti-Japanese vandalism and arson, culminating in the site's abandonment to those unsavory types who inhabit abandoned urban parkland. Chicago's sister city, Osaka (which is Japan's second city, after all), donated the money in the 1980s to restore the gardens, prompting a name change from the Japanese Garden to the Osaka Garden. Today, the gardens are one of Chicago's finest secret places and a wonderful way to relax after harrowing tourist adventures.Free.  
  • Midway Park, 1130 Midway Plaisance North(Located between 59th and 60th Streets). A large grassy park, which mostly just serves to give visitors a good view of the University of Chicago. But the Winter/Summer reading gardens just south of the University's main quad are quite beautiful and a nice place to relax from touring; the statue right next to the gardens is of Swedish botanist Carl von Linné. 
  • Museum of Science and Industry, 5700 S Lake Shore Dr & E 57th St(Take CTA buses 2, 6, 10, 28, 55, or the Metra Electric Line), +1 773 684-1414, [12]. Summer and holidays M-Sa 9:30AM-5:30PM, Su 11AM-5:30PM, other seasons M-Sa 9:30AM-4PM, Su 11AM-4PM. No tour of Chicago's museums is complete without a visit to this one. Spend hours upon hours looking at really cool stuff you never even knew you didn't know about. So much to do, so little time. You can return for free the following day if you take your ticket to "Will Call" on the way out on your first day. Great for kids, with many hands-on exhibits and the famous Coal Mine; adults will enjoy the display of the German U-boat 'U-505'.$11 adult, $5 child.  
  • Robie House, 5757 S Woodlawn Ave, +1 708 848-1976(info@wrightplus.org), [13]. Tours: M-F 11AM, 1PM, 3PM; Sa-Su 11AM-3:30PM every 30 minutes. This fabulously impractical house was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. It is one of the world's most famous examples of the Midwestern "Prairie School" of architecture, which aimed to create buildings with prominent horizontal lines evocative of the prairie landscape. The interior is bizarre, intended to remind its inhabitants of a ship, and is surrounded by stained art glass windows. You must take an official tour to see the interior, which lasts about an hour. Tours of the surrounding historic neighborhood are offered as well — it is best to inquire by phone beforehand. Be sure to take a gander at the University of Chicago's Business School across the street, which was designed to emulate the style of the Robie House in a more modern fashion.$12 adult, $10 youth, $5 child.  

Chicago - South Chicago Shore city tours

The University of Chicago hosts some truly world class performing arts. The U of C Presents' classical music performances are particularly excellent. If you are looking to relax, head to the huge area parks for 18 holes of golf, a sunset at Promontory Point, or ice skating on the Midway. Or if you are into film, the University's nightly Doc Films screenings and regular director visits are a treasure.

  • Chicago Theatre Company, 500 E 67th St(Parkway Community House), +1 773 493-5360. shows: Th-Sa 8PM, Su 3PM. African-American community theater company.$15, $3 for students and seniors.  
  • Court Theatre, 5535 S Ellis Ave, +1 773 753-4472(fax: +1 773 702-6417), [14]. performances: W-Th 7:30PM, F 8PM, Sa 3PM & 8PM, Su 2:30PM & 7:30PM. Excellent drama theater on the University campus.Student $8-20, general $25-50, half-price tickets available one hour before the show.  
  • Doc Films, 1212 E 59th St(Inside Ida Noyes Hall), Office: +1 773 702-8574 Hotline: +1 773 702-8575(docfilms@uchicago.edu), [15]. Check the website's calendar for screenings, nightly during the school year and W-Sa during the summer. Those zoning laws are again to "blame" for the total absence of any movie theaters in this section of Chicago. But their absence clearly benefits the longest-running student film society in the country, which puts on an impressive number of independent documentaries, art-house films, and other socially relevant movies throughout the year, all in a state-of-the-art cinema. Doc Films attracts a very knowledgeable crowd (perhaps because the students and neighborhood residents have no other movie options!) and it is a good place to eavesdrop on some intense, intellectual conversations.$5 general admission, tickets go on sale 30 minutes before screenings and credit cards are not accepted..  
  • Jackson Park Golf Course, 6300 S Hayes Dr, reservations: +1 312 245-0909, lessons: +1 847 480-4853, management: +1 312 755-3579, [16]. Sunrise-sunset. 18 holes of golf and a driving range, all in the middle of Jackson Park. No golf carts available.M-F $22.75, Sa-Su $25.75.  
  • Jackson Park Beaches, (along the lake south of Promontory Point). Memorial Day-Labor Day 9AM-9:30PM daily. There are better beaches further north and further south, but if you're here and want to get a swim in, Jackson Park's two beaches are fine. 
  • Midway Plaisance Ice Skating, 1130 Midway Plaisance North(E 59th St at Woodlawn Ave), +1 312 745-2470(Midway@chicagoparkdistrict.com). Su-Th noon-7PM, F noon-4:30PM & 5PM-7PM, Sa 1PM-9PM. Free.  
  • Promontory Point Park(The Point), 5491 S Lake Shore Drive, +1 312 747-6620. Promontory Point in the Hyde Park section of Burnham Park is a beautiful spot to take in the great skyline view, watch summer fireworks, or take a (technically illegal) swim. The point was constructed under the depression era Works Progress Administration in the style of the Prairie School of park design. For some demented reason, the Chicago Park Administration wants to encase this work of art in concrete (over the passionate protests of Hyde Park residents), so be sure to enjoy it while you can. 
  • University of Chicago Presents, Mandel Hall: 1131 East 57th Street, +1 773 702-8068(concert-office@uchicago.edu, fax: +1 773 834-5888), [17]. Performances usually on F 8PM or Su 3PM. The University of Chicago Presents hosts numerous classical music performances in Hyde Park, usually featuring big-name national and international performers for relatively low prices.Student $10, general $30-35.  

Chicago - South Chicago Shore souvenirs and shopping

The University has had a big hand in zoning regulations designed to keep chain stores, and really any stores, out of the district. As a result, this large urban district actually lacks a single clothing store. Book lovers and collectors, on the other hand, will be thrilled with the multiple independent and used bookstores along 57th Street and the awe-inspiring Seminary Co-op. Aside from books, Hyde Park is now likely the world's number one destination for Barack Obama merchandise, who is becoming somewhat of a local hero figure. The convenience stores are full of dancing Obama dolls, t-shirts, etc., and other stores and restaurants are all touting "Obama eats here!" "Obama shops here!" Don't let the hype shape your choices though, it's a small neighborhood, and the Obamas have probably tried out all the restaurants by now.

  • 57th St Books, 1301 E 57th St, +1 773 684-1300(fiftysev@semcoop.com, fax: +1 773 984-2804), [18]. M-F 10AM-9PM, Sa-Su 10AM-8PM. A branch of the University's Seminary Co-op that has frequent literary events, including poetry readings, author talks, and writing workshops. 
  • Artisans 21 gallery, 5225 S Harper St, +1 773 288-7450. T-F noon-6PM, Sa 10AM-6PM, Su noon-5PM. A gallery cooperative selling everything from ceramics to paintings to jewelry. 
  • Dr Wax, 5225 S Harper Ave, +1 773 439-8696, [19]. M-Sa 11AM-7PM, Su noon-6PM. Used records and new and used CDs. All sorts of music. 
  • Hyde Park Records, 1377 E 53rd St, +1 773 288-6588, [20]. M-Th 11AM-7PM, F-Sa 11AM-8PM, Su noon-6PM. A huge selection of vinyl and a smaller selection of CDs. 
  • O'Gara and Wilson, Ltd, 1448 E 57th St, +1 773 363-0993(ogarawilson37@sbcglobal.net), [21]. M-F 11AM-7PM, Sa 11AM-8PM, Su noon-6PM. An impressively atmospheric antiquarian bookseller that has been open at this location for 120 years, with a wide selection acquired mostly from Hyde Park estate sales, students, and professors. The staff is incredibly knowledgeable.$1-2,000.  
  • Powell's Books, 1501 E 57th St, +1 773 955-7780, [22]. 9AM-11PM daily. Used books overflowing the shelves, all over the place. 
  • Seminary Co-op Bookstore, 5757 S University Ave, +1 773 752-4381(orders@semcoop.com, fax: +1 773 752-8507), [23]. M-F 8:30AM-9PM, Sa 10AM-6PM, Su noon-6PM. The world's largest academic bookstore has an awe-inspiring collection on every topic. 

Chicago - South Chicago Shore Restaurants: cheap, moderate and expensive

The odd "Thai Row" on 55th Street deserves a mention. These are definitely not the best Thai restaurants in Chicago, but they serve tasty, greasy food in large portions on the cheap. No one seems to know why these Thai restaurants congregated in this one spot. In general, though, the center of dining in the South Chicago Shore area is along 53rd Street and Harper Court.

Budget

  • Daley's Restaurant, 809 E 63rd St, +1 773 643-6670, [24]. 5AM-9PM daily. Huh? Daley worship in Woodlawn? No, that couldn't be and it isn't. Built by one John Daley, this has been Woodlawn's neighborhood restaurant for about 120 years! As the Irish fled to the suburbs, the menu shifted towards offering nothing but the soulest soul food around (the breakfast is a particular draw). Owing to the housing projects just north, the area around this Green Line stop is on the rough side, but Daley's will treat you to a strong dose of delicious food & friendly "sure thing sweetie" service.$4-12.  
  • Harold's Chicken Shack. The great South Side fried chicken chain is cheap, usually a little dirty, and always delicious. Crowded at meal times.$2-5.  
  • 1208 E 53rd St, +1 773 725-9260. 10AM-11:30PM daily.
  • 6419 S Cottage Grove Ave, +1 773 363-9586(info@haroldschickenshack2.com), [25]. Su–W 11AM-midnight, Th 11AM–3AM, F-Sa 11AM–4AM.
  • Istria Cafe, 1520 E 57th St, +1 773 955-2556. M-F 6:30AM-7PM, Sa 7AM-7PM, Su 8AM-6PM. Premium coffee and an assortment of panini, pastries, and gelato served right under the Metra stop.$3-5.  
  • Original Pancake House, 1517 E Hyde Park Blvd, +1 773 288-2322. M-F 7AM-3PM Sa-Su 7AM-5PM. Often called the best pancake house in Chicago, but you need only see the length of the line on weekends to understand how great this place is. Simply wonderful pancake house with an exhaustive pancake menu and delightful service. As you would expect, though, it is extremely crowded.$5-10.  
  • Rajun Cajun, 1459 E 53rd St, +1 773 955-1145. M-Sa 11AM-9:30PM. A hole-in-the-wall that, interestingly enough, serves a combination of Indian food and soul food. Probably the only place around where you can sip a mango lassi while eating collard greens and fried chicken. While the seating area is a little neglected, the atmosphere benefits from the waiting-in-line dancing to the hindi club/rock music.$5-10.  
  • Ribs 'N' Bibs, 5300 S Dorchester, +1 773 493-0400, [26]. Su-Th 11AM-midnight, F-Sa 11AM-1AM. A true Hyde Park institution that's open late. Great BBQ sauce over everything, from the $2 Bronco Burger to more expensive rib plates. The sauce-drenched french fries are a real favorite. Food is smoked in a wood-burning stove, which gives the neighborhood its salivatory smell. Limited seating.$2-20.  
  • Salonika, 1440 E 57th St, +1 773 752-3899. 7AM-10PM daily. Good diner with comfy booths, greasy food, and a constant flow of coffee. Has good Greek and Mexican entrees.$7-12.  
  • Third World Cafe, 1301 E 53rd St, +1 773 288-3882. M-Th 7AM-8:30PM, F 7AM-10PM, Sa 8AM-10PM, Su 9AM-8:30PM. "Fair-trade" coffee, panini, vegetarian fare, and pastries. Has art for sale by local artists.$2-6.  
  • Valois, 1518 E 53rd St, +1 773 667-0647. 5:30AM-10PM daily. Cash only diner/cafeteria institution for about 80 years at the heart of the Hyde Park community. Breakfast served until 4PM.$5-8.  

Mid-range

  • Caffe Florian, 1450 E 57th St, +1 773 752-4100. Su-Th 11AM-11PM, F-Sa 11AM-midnight. An Italian cafe popular with the students. Not all dishes here are equal, but their deep-dish pizza is a neighborhood favorite.$5-8.  
  • Calypso Cafe, 5211 S Harper Ave, +1 773 955-0229(fax: +1 773 955-3500), [27]. Su-Th 11AM-10PM, F-Sa 11AM-11PM. All sorts of Caribbean food in one of the area's nicest and tastiest restaurants. Has a full bar.$10-15.  
  • Cedar's Mediterranean Kitchen, 1206 E 53rd St, +1 773 324-6227. 11:30AM-10PM daily. The Lebanese cuisine here is quite good and reasonably priced.$8-15.  
  • Dixie Kitchen & Bait Shop, 5225 S Harper Ave, +1 773 363-4943. Su-Th 11AM-10PM, F-Sa 11AM-11PM. One of the best restaurants in Hyde Park, Dixie Kitchen serves "pan-Southern" cuisine on checkerboard tablecloth with a 1930s eatery ambiance. This transplanted bit of 1930s Mississippi is one of the best places in the city to get a nice meal of southern food.$8-10.  
  • Edwardo's Natural Pizza Restaurant, 1321 E 57th St, +1 773 241-7960. M-Th 11AM-10PM, F-Sa 11AM-11PM, Su 11AM-10PM. Come here specifically for its famous stuffed spinach pizza and you won't regret it — well, you may regret the weight-gaining aftermath, but you won't regret the experience.$8-15.  
  • Giordano's, 5309 S Blackstone Ave, +1 773 947-0200, [28]. Su-Th 11AM-11PM, F-Sa 11AM-midnight. Not all Giordano's are created equal, but this is the original location and one of the better places in the city to try Chicago stuffed pizza. The thin crust and pasta entrees are also good choices, if not so famous.$10-23.  
  • Kikuya, 1601 E 55th St, +1 773 667-3727, [29]. T-Sa noon-10PM, Su 4:30PM-9PM. Hyde Park's one Japanese restaurant serves tempura, sushi, sashimi. It may be the only Japanese food on the South Side.$10-15.  
  • Medici, 1327 E 57th St, +1 773 667-7394. M-Th 11AM-11PM, F 11AM-12PM, Sa 9AM-12PM, Su 9AM-11PM. Popular Italian place with a good bakery, delicious pizza, great Italian food, and really nice ambiance in their seating area downstairs. Also serves excellent floats with flavors like almond and grenadine.$8-18.  
  • Pizza Capri, 1501 E 53rd St, +1 773 324-7777. M-F 10AM-11:30PM, Sa-Su 9AM-midnight. Good upscale Italian cuisine and excellent stuffed pizza. Try the gourmet ingredients like feta cheese and fine sausage on a stuffed pizza for a deliciously fattening night. Great bread.$11-20.  
  • Siam Thai Restaurant, 1639 E 55th St, +1 773 324-9296. 11AM-10PM daily. Good spot for cheap and greasy, but nonetheless delicious pad thai.$5-12.  
  • Snail Thai Cuisine, 1649 E 55th St, +1 773 667-5423. 11AM-10PM daily. Weird name yes, but this is the most popular and brightly lit of the three Thai places on Thai row.$5-12.  
  • Thai 55th, 1607 E 55th St, +1 773 363-7119, [30]. 11AM-10PM daily. Probably the least popular of the three Thai row locations, but the best bet for pad see ew and bubble tea.$5-12.  

Splurge

  • La Petite Folie, 1504 E 55th St, +1 773 493-1394(fax: +1 773 493-1450), [31]. lunch: T-F 11:30AM-2PM, dinners: T-Su 5PM. A very good, unpretentious French restaurant on the south end of the Lake Shore shopping center. The U of C alumnae who own the place apparently tired of scientific research and moved to France for a while to graduate with honors from the prestigious Cordon Bleu Paris school of gastronomy. And Hyde Park rejoices. Prix fixe menu available daily 5PM-6:30PM.$15-25.  
  • Park 52, 5201 S Harper Ave(in the same building as the New Checkerboard Lounge), +1 773 241-5200, [32]. Su-Th 5PM-10PM, F-Sa 5PM-11PM. Jerry Kleiner's new restaurant, distinguishing itself by being the only truly upmarket fine dining in the neighborhood. New American cuisine, fancy offbeat decor, and right next to the Checkerboard Lounge. Reservations recommended.$22-40.  

Chicago - South Chicago Shore nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs

One of the University's many powerful Hyde Park legacies is the general lack of nightclubs and bars, which once covered the now desolate stretch of 55th St west of the Metra tracks. Ask any student, Jimmy's (a.k.a. Woodlawn Tap) is really the place to go for a beer. And fortunately, the current University president happens to be a jazz pianist; one of his more notable neighborhood ventures was to get the Checkerboard Lounge reopened in a new location in the Harper Court strip.

  • BackStory Cafe, 6100 S Woodlawn, +1 773 324-9987(Backstory@TheExperimentalStation.com), [33]. 8AM-8PM daily. Chicago's hiddenest gem is nearly impossible to find, but may be Chicago's finest cafe. Run by Woodlawn's artsy/social-cause-chasing Experimentation Station, this extraordinarily laid-back cafe serves incredible fresh coffee (details like the measurement of coffee beans really pay off) and whole pots (for 2-4 people) of quality loose leaf teas for just $4.50. And they have free WiFi. And they screen free indie films/documentaries on Sunday nights. And open mic on Friday nights. To find the place, which is located in an odd industrial/construction zone, with minimal signage, head south from the Midway on Dorchester to take a left on 61st St. It's just around the corner at the dead end on what barely passes for a street. Lastly, don't worry about the location, the streets around the cafe are perfectly safe.Food: $3-6.  
  • Bar Louie, 5550 S South Shore Dr, +1 773 363-5300, [34]. 11AM-2AM daily. A chain bar & grill, with unexciting food, and very slow service, but... stiff mojitos, outdoor seating, and location right by the beach makes for a great time in the summer. That the clientele is very diverse is another plus. 
  • CHANT, 1509 East 53rd Street, 773-324-1999(info@CHANTchicago.com, fax: 773-324-9994), [35]. Su-M noon-10PM, Tu-Th 11:30AM-midnight, F-Sa 11:30AM-1AM. CHANT is a restaurant and bar, but skip the food and go straight to the bar. (The food is fine, but the service is not.) The decor is extraordinarily chic, especially for Hyde Park, and there's live entertainment (often jazz) F-Sa starting at 9:30PM. 
  • Cove Lounge(The Cove), 1750 E 55th St, +1 773 684-1013. Su-Th 10:30AM-2AM, F 11AM-2AM, Sa 11AM-3AM. A loud, upbeat dive bar that's way more eclectic than whatever bars you've been to in the past. Its got a weird 70's nautical theme, interesting music on the jukebox, and cheap drinks. Unfortunately, it's also a tiny space and can get crowded. 
  • Falcon Inn, 1601 E 53rd St. M-F 10:30AM-2AM, Sa 11AM-3AM, Su noon-2AM. The sleeper dive bar in Hyde Park, largely unknown to the student crowd. It's tucked away on a quiet section of 53rd Street, and serves an eclectic crowd of friendly locals, who come to relax, enjoy the very cheap beer, and the pizza through the window to Cholie's next door. (Cholie's pizza is a Chicago travesty, but hey, you're drinking $1.50 beer.) 
  • New Checkerboard Lounge, 5201 S Harper Ct, +1 773 684-1472. 11AM-2AM daily, live music usually starts after 9:30PM. A new location for the newly reopened legendary jazz and blues club. Serves an eclectic crowd. Blues is the staple, with jazz on Sundays.Cover $3-20.  
  • Seven Ten Lanes, 1055 E 55th St, +1 773 347-2695(fax: +1 773 472-1978). M-Th 11:30AM-1AM, F-Sa 11:30AM-2AM, Su 11:30AM-midnight. Beer, bowling, shuffleboard, and an art deco ambiance. Its proximity to the University allows it to be overpriced, but it's the only place around to satisfy bowling urges, or to have a good beer outside. They also happen to have some very good foreign beers on tap. 
  • Woodlawn Tap(Jimmy's), 1172 E 55th St, +1 773 643-5516. Su-F 10:30AM-2AM, Sa 10:30AM-3AM. From the University perspective, this is the one and only real bar in Hyde Park (and accordingly, the only establishment that was saved from the University-driven "urban removal." A good place to be served beer by PhDs and to listen in on the intense intellectual debates about topics you didn't know existed. Some famous writers used to frequent the bar, including Saul Bellow and Dylan Thomas. Live jazz on Sunday nights and you might catch a University improv comedy group during the week. But above all, the dark cavernous atmosphere, the low-key vibe, and the greasy burgers make this one of the best dives in the city. While it's a university favorite, don't expect a rowdy singles scene here—it's the U of C, folks.Cover $3-20.  

Chicago - South Chicago Shore cheap and luxurious hotels, youth hostels and lodging

The South Chicago Shore is oddly devoid of hotels. Certainly the nicest options are the Ramada (which is a bit far from anything), one small Bed & Breakfast, and the short term apartment rentals. If you have always dreamed of crashing in a transient hotel, the Hyde Park Arms is the place for you, as it is far cleaner and safer than its peers elsewhere. But most visitors to this district stay downtown; the Loop along Michigan Avenue is the best bet, since the southbound Metra stops are just outside the hotels.

  • Abode, 5412 S Blackstone Ave, +1 773 955-4561(ltb.abode@gmail.com, fax: +1 773 439-6901), [36]. checkin: 3PM; checkout: noon. Short term apartment rentals located near Hyde Park's "downtown" area. 15-20 minute walk to the University. Kitchens fully stocked. $150/night.  
  • Carolan Apartment, 5480 S Cornell Ave, +1 773 324-7400. Short term apartment rentals, unfurnished. Per month, $590-$675 studio, $725 one bedroom. building pays water, gas, and heat, while tenant pays electric, phone, and cable.  
  • Hyde Park Arms Hotel, 5316 S Harper Ave, +1 773 493-3500. Hotel rooms leased weekly, bi-weekly, or monthly. The 70 rooms include standard hotel furnishings and a fridge, but no stove or microwave; all utilities are paid by the building, unless you want cable. Not a lot of transient hotels left in the USA, but this one is a decent option for week-long to month-long accommodations for anyone visiting the city on the cheap. Per week $145-$155.  
  • International House, 1414 E 59th St, +1 773 753-2270(i-house-housing@uchicago.edu, fax: +1 773 753-1227), [37]. checkin: 3PM; checkout: noon. A student dormitory, which provides budget short-term accommodations to those lucky to be "affiliated with either the University of Chicago or another cultural, educational or professional institution" (and their guests). They do their reservations (and information requests) by email. The rooms are mostly dorm rooms, but there are a couple nicer ones with private baths available (at significantly higher rates). Discounted weekly rates ares also available. $60-128.  
  • Ramada Lakeshore Chicago, 4900 S Lakeshore Dr, +1 773 288-5800(fax: +1 773 288-5819), [38]. checkin: noon; checkout: 3PM. This is the only major hotel in the area. It is unfortunately far from anything in the area of interest, but its rates are low and it has plenty of free parking and a downtown shuttle. $125-140.  
  • University Quarters B&B, 6137 S Kimbark Ave, +1 773 855-8349(reservations@universityquarters.net, fax: +1 773 409-5434), [39]. Comfy and close to the University, albeit awkwardly south of the Midway. Rest assured the owners will take good care of you. $150-165.  
  • Wooded Isle Suites, 5750 S Stony Island Ave, +1 800 290-6844(Reserve@woodedisle.com, fax: +1 773 288-8972), [40]. A pretty fantastic option for staying in Hyde Park, the Wooded Isle suites are right next to the Museum of Science and Industry, Jackson Park, the 57th St Metra station, and the 57th St dining strip. All rooms include a fully equipped kitchen and housekeeping service every other day. It's a bit of a walk to the University (0.8 miles), but make your student come visit you here — it's also just a couple blocks from the beach. $180-217 (can go as low as $60 off-season).  

Contact

The following public libraries offer free public internet access:

  • Blackstone Branch Library, 4904 S Lake Park Avenue, +1 312 747-0511(fax: +1 312 747-5821). M-Th 9AM-9PM, F-Sa 9AM-5PM. This particular library is not just a free internet joint, it's a beautiful work of art, filled with marble and murals. It was created as a charitable work by Timothy Blackstone, a 19th century railroad baron who also founded the Union Stockyards on the Southwest Side
  • Bessie Coleman Branch Library, 731 E 63rd St, +1 312 747-7760(fax: +1 312 747-7768). M-Th 9AM-8PM, F-Sa 9AM-5PM.  

Stay safe

Many University students seem to live in fear of their neighborhood, and the University goes to pains to explain to visitors that it is not unsafe, and that they have appropriate security measures to keep their students safe, but nonetheless, the fear persists. Know that this is wholly irrational. Hyde Park and to a somewhat lesser degree Kenwood are some of the safest inner neighborhoods in Chicago, with very low violent crime rates. Moreover, the University famously fields the third largest police force in Illinois, with full police powers. That means there are twice as many police in Hyde Park than any other neighborhood around. Feel safe walking down the street at night, because you are. The only places you should actively worry about crime are in Woodlawn (south of 61st St), where there is a good deal of violent and drug-related crime that as a rule does not spill over across the Midway.

Get out

  • The famous Museum Campus and McCormick Center are just to the north of Oakland in Chicago's Near South.
  • Chicago's Bronzeville, the historic Black Metropolis, is just a stone's throw away from the South Chicago Shore, and well worth a visit for its huge role in African-American history, rejuvenated nightlife, and soul food. Washington Park and especially the DuSable Museum of African-American History (which is just across the street from the University of Chicago Hospital) are very easy to visit when in the University area and should not be missed.
  • Oak Woods Cemetery and some of the best blues in the city are located in the adjacent neighborhood of Greater Grand Crossing in Chicago's Southwest Side.
  • If you are up for a little drive, head south to the historic planned industrial community of Pullman, on the Far Southeast Side, and afterward grab some incredible smoked shrimp at the 95th St bridge.

This page was last edited by Peter Fitzgerald. Based on work by Marc Heiden and Jani Patokallio, Wikitravel user(s) PerryPlanet, Cacahuate and Eco84, Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel and others. - Content on this page is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 1.0 license

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