Cartagena

Table of Contents: Culture and History / Travel to Cartagena, visa requirements / Get around / Cartagena attractions and sightseeing / City tours / Warnings / Shopping, Cartagena souvenirs / Good restaurants and cheap meals / Cartagena nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs. / Hotels, youth hostels, lodging / Budget / Mid-range / Splurge / Houses / Apartment rentals / Get out More from Colombia: Andean Highlands (Colombia), Antioquia, Bogotá, Cúcuta, Caribbean Lowlands, Cartagena, Colombian Amazon, Eastern Plains, Isla Gorgona, Leticia, Pacific Lowlands, Risaralda, San Andrés and Providencia, Tierradentro More from South America: Amazonia, Andes, Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Falkland Islands, Guyana, Los Roques, Pantanal, Paraguay, Peru, Suriname, Tierra del Fuego, Uruguay, Venezuela

Cartagena [1] is a city in Colombia, a country in South America.

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Culture and History

Cartagena is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Considered by many as one of the world's most beautiful, fascinating and magical cities, Cartagena was founded by Spanish conquerors as a main port to bring Europeans and their goods into South America, and transport gold, silver and all sorts of plants, animals, minerals and handicrafts from all over the continent across the Caribbean and on to the Old World.

Today the city hosts intellectuals and plenty of beautiful restored homes among exotic, highly attractive and dynamic plazas, waterfronts and other public spaces. One of the most hospitable venues for any tourist looking for a good rest, Caribbean and Colombian magical realism and tropical ambiance or natural wonders. The city hosts many conventions but the two of major interest to europeans and americans are without doubt the classical Music Festival held in the first two weeks of January and the South american version of the (UK) Hay Literary Festival towards the end of january. Both are particularly imaginative with world class performers, writers and critics.

The city was one of the first sanctuaries of freed African slaves in the Americas and is currently populated by an ethnic mix representative of Colombia's own variety.

Cartagena, located on Colombia's northern coast and facing the Caribbean Sea, is the most visited city in the country by tourists. It gets extremely crowded in the December holidays and the holy week, when schools are out and most Colombians take their vacations. The city has basically two main parts where tourists go: the walled colonial city ("ciudad amurallada"), which is truly amazing and has many fancy restaurants, clubs and hotels; and a long strip of hotel towers and condos fronting onto the beach, known as Bocagrande. Also is nice to visit the exclusive neighborhood of Castillogrande, filled with recently built condos, places to jog, and a quiet beach to soak up some sun.

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Travel to Cartagena, visa requirements

Cartagena is 1000 km north of Bogotá (about an hour by air), or 2.5 hours' flight from Miami and 5 to five and a half hours from New York City. The Rafael Nuñez international airport receives international flights from Panama City and Miami.

The bus terminal is 6 km east of the old city. Frequent White and Green metrocar buses with air conditioner go to the old city and cost C$ 1,500 ($0.80). Buses leave every hour for Barranquilla, and from there frequent buses connect to Santa Marta. The asking price for buses to Medellin is $50 USD, but it is normal to barter the price down to $30. All long distance bus tickets are expected to be bartered down.

Cartagena is an important port for charter boats between Colombia and Panama. These usually very small sailboats (Charters) with a single captain, is prudent to ask for the reputation of the company who owns the boat. Fare varies widely, but can be from US$200-US$500, food included, and can take from three to five days, depending on whether a stop at the San Blas Islands is included. At the Panama end, the boats often anchor in Portobelo, rather than Colón. Ask at your hotel or hostel, and try going to the yacht clubs at the harbor and asking around. Expect to have to wait several days to find a boat.

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Get around

The old town in particular is best explored Walking. Most places in Bocagrande are also within walking distance.

To reach other destinations such as the San Felipe fort, there are many buses running all over the city. Ask the driver or other people who are waiting which bus goes to your destination.

Taxis are generally easy to find, although in the old town you may have to walk a few blocks away from the center, toward the wider road close to wall. From the old town to Boca Grande or vice versa, expect to pay COP$4,500; from the airport to the old town is COP$13,000 or $15.000 at night, with air conditioner.

A Charriot is a popular way for tourists to get to know the old town. These can be flagged down in the street or there are usually some waiting at the Plaza Bolivar or close to the Santa Clara hotel.

Cartagena has several harbours for Boats going out to the Islas del Rosario and Playa Blanca, including the Muelle Turistico de la Bodeguita, Muelle Todomar.

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Cartagena attractions and sightseeing

• Cartagena's 500-hundred year-old coralstone forts and great parts of its walled city are admirably intact and represent some of the finest examples of civil and military architecture of the Spanish colonial times.
• While you are in Cartagena, don't miss the Castillo de San Felipe, a fortress designed by the Dutch engineer Richard Carr and built in 1657 by the Spanish for protection against pirates while shipping gold out to Europe. Opening hours 8am-6pm, entrance fee COP$ 11,000.
• Close to the San Felipe fortress is the 150m high La Popa hill, which offers great views over Cartagena and the harbour area. The 17th century Santa Cruz monastery is here, which has a beautifully restored courtyard and a fine image of the Virgin of La Candelaria. As of March 2007 entrance to La Popa is COP$6,000 for adults and a little less for children.
• Cartagena's main attraction is its historic old town surrounded by the city wall. Main entrance is the Clock Tower Building. The walled city includes the neighbourhoods Centro, San Diego, Getsemaní and the modern part La Matuna. The oldest part of Cartagena is around Plaza Trinidad in Getsemaní.
• Museums: Cartagena is a city full of history, which can be visited at the Palacio de la Inquisición (Palace of Inquisition), where the spanish Inquisition tortured, judged and convicted men accused of crimes against religion. It is situated in 'Plaza de Bolivar', in the historic center. A turist guide can be get in english for COP$15.000.
• Churches: Almost all churches in the historic center are worth visiting, especially Iglesia de San Pedro Claver, in honor of the prist St. Pedro Claver, who was the first saint of the new world for his work with slaves; La Catedral, near Plaza de Bolivar and the Iglesia de Santo Domingo.

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City tours

• Nearby coral reefs, powdery beaches, impressive mangroves, and waterways complement the historic and urban beauty.
• If you are interested in beaching it, Playa Blanca is the place to be. You can take either a ferry from the port near the Centro de Convenciones or go by car (via the bridge to the island of Baru). There is also a direct bus going on Sunday morning. The beaches are far cleaner than those in and around the city. There are a lot of vendors trying hassle you for oysters or massages. You can rent a hammock and stay the night as well, which is a very budget-conscious way to spend a few days.
• Farther down from Playa Blanca on Isla Baru, Sport Baru is a place well worth of visit. This tranquil beachfront resort offers water sports, boat tours, eco hikes, gaming and gathering facilities, restaurant and bar; and an exceptional staff that is very accommodating to meet any of your needs. You can take a day tour there from Cartagena, or stay overnight in comfortable cabanas that are all facing the beach. Day tours from Cartagena (C$90.000) include boat transportation, lunch and refreshments, boat trips to near by secluded white sand beaches, and Sport Baru’s amenities to be enjoyed.
• Several agents arrange boat tours to Islas del Rosario. A set of small islands out of the coast. Usually the tour include lunch, a visit to an aquarium and a few hours at Playa Blanca. Not included in the price is harbor tax and park entrance (C$8.300 total) and the entrance fee to the aquarium (C$12.000). If you buy your tour at one of the street vendors, don't pay in advance, preferably pay part or all at return in Cartagena.

Playa Blanca is widely regarded as the best beach of Cartagena, but is not that easy to reach. With its white sand and crystal clear water it is probably one of the best beaches in Colombia. After tour-boats leave in the afternoon it is also very peaceful and quiet. It is worth staying on Playa Blanca for at least one night. There are several places where you can rent hammocks, get food and drinks. For example “Wittenbergs place” or "donde Raimundo". On the beach you will be approached to buy massages, fruit platters, sea food and jewelry among other things. Look out for the vendors selling oysters: they will give you an oyster as a present (regalo) to taste. They will quickly crack the shells and serve you a number of oysters, after which you are told that they each cost 2,000 pesos. Avoid this 30,000 peso charge and the subsequent argument on the beach. If you are looking for great seafood and Coco Locos, ask around for Nelson Mandela.

By boat Take a bus or taxi to “Mercado Bazurto”, the big market of Cartagena about 10 minutes from the Center. From there, every day, except Sundays, small cargo-boats (lancha de carga) leave for Playa Blanca. They don´t have an exact departure time, be there before 9 a.m. to be sure. You will have to pay about 15.000 pesos each way(september 2006) and the trip takes more or less 1 hour to reach the beach.The way back is much easier, most boats (tourboats) will bring you back for the same price. Keep in mind that the last boats from Playa Blanca to Cartagena leave around 2-3 p.m.! More comfortable and safer is taking a roundtrip from the center at Muelle de las Pegasos. You can bargain down a one-way-trip without lunch to about 25.000 Pesos plus 8.300 port tax. The tour takes you to Rosario Islands first until it reaches Playa Blanca in the late morning. You can leave the tour there to stay overnight.

Overland by public transport (2-3 tough hours): 1. Bus to Pasacaballos – 2. ferry or canoe to cross “Canal del Dique” – 3.on the other side you take any kind of transport to Santa Ana (bus,jeep,mototaxi) 4.from Santana further on to Playa Blanca there are buses,jeeps or mototaxis - if you like it cheap try to reach Santana until 9 a.m ,later on the only bus is gone and you have to take a mototaxi for 12.000 pesos which you actualy can take allready once your crossed the "Canal del Dique", Its about 2 hours walking distance from Santana to Playa Planca. Fare all together around 3.500 pesos or 12.000 pesos if you take a moto taxi once you crossed te "canal del Dique"

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Warnings

Watch out for the "Money-Changing-Magicians"

Those street vendors offer you a very good exchange rate. After you have counted the money you will recognize that a small amount is missing, and after complaining he will put exactly that amount on top again. In the same move they will take some big notes from the bottom. Most people won't count their money a second time, and first think they made a good deal but in fact got ripped off. Be very careful when walking at night specially around lonely parts of the city. When in the Old City do not walk outside de Walls, and remember that it is a large city, so just use common sense. The street vendors can be very annoying, but a simple "No quiero nada" in Spanish will keep them away.

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Shopping, Cartagena souvenirs

• Handcrafts are fashionable and sophisticated

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Good restaurants and cheap meals

Cartagena features a rich fusion cuisine, combining ingredients and methods of the New and Old worlds, as well as of the original African, Arabian and other legacies of its inhabitants. Eating set menu lunches and dinners in local restaurants costs around COP$4,000 pesos ($2). A typical dish consists of fried fish (if you are by the beach), chicken or meat, served with coconut rice (arroz de coco), fried plantains (patacones) and salad. There are a few places that sell $1 fruit juices. Colombia boasts a very good range of exotic fruits that can be mixed with water or milk.

In the old town, dozens of good restaurants can be found dotted around the streets. They are particularly concentrated close to the Plaza Santo Domingo in El Centro, such as:

• Club de Pesca - great seafood and great atmosphere. The "it" restaurant in Cartagena.
• Saint Michel - on the northwest corner of the Plaza. If you fancy a change from the usual seafood or Italian restaurants, this French option serves some very tasty fondues as the main courses in its three-course menus, very good value at around USD$10, as well as plenty of other dishes and wine at more reasonable prices than at most restaurants in this area.
• El Bistro - Excellent European Kitchen, German Bakery, reasonabel prices in Calle Ayos 4-46, 2 blocks from Plaza Santo Domingo.

There are also several around the smaller but more intimate San Diego Plaza next to the Santa Clara hotel and include:

• La Cevicheria - Calle Stuar, opposite Hotel Santa Clara, Tel: 6642760. A great selection of hot and cold ceviches, around USD$8 a dish.
• Pazza Luna - good, super thin crust pizzas, as well as some other dishes such as pastas.

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Cartagena nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs.

• One of the most popular watering holes for local Cartageneros is Mister Babilla, located on the Avenida del Arsenal, near the Centro de Convenciones. This place is great on the weekends and is notorious for having people dancing on the tables and the bar late into the night! A great time!
• La Avenida del Arsenal is located along the bay near the Centro de Convenciones. In its heyday it was THE place to be. Now much of the nightlife in Cartagena has moved to the Ciudad Vieja, but this strip of about 10 discotecas is still a raging place to experience on weekends. Entry to most of the discos is 10,000 to 20,000 Colombian pesos.

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Hotels, youth hostels, lodging

In the ciudad amurallada, the most famous hotels are Santa Clara and Santa Teresa, both old monasteries renovated in the 90s. Either of them have fabulous facilities - expect prices like Monaco. Otherwise, the newest part of the city, Bocagrande, offers the largest number of hotels of all prices. You should always try to stay in the ciudad amurallada, since this is what makes Cartagena unique, rather than its beaches, which are normally too crowded and not really clean. If you cannot afford the five-star hotels, you may try with colonial houses turned into hostels, but they are rather small and sometimes getting a room there may be a matter of luck.

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Budget

Budget hotels and hostels can be found in Getsemaní

• Casa Viena, Calle San Andrés (Getsemaní), 5-664-6242 (hotel@casaviena.com) [2]. Popular backpackers place with several 2 to 4 person rooms some with bathroom and a dormitory with arco. Facilities include internet, personal strongboxes, bookswap and a communal kitchen. Price for a dormbed C$11.000 and around C$13.000 per person for a room.

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Mid-range

• Hotel 3 Banderas, Calle Cochera del Hobo #38-66, (Barrio San Diego), +57-5-6600160 (info@hotel3banderas.com) [3]. Small colonial hotel, different rooms and suites from USD 50 to USD 100.
• Hotel Casa del Curato, Calle del Curato Cra. 7 Nº 38-89, (Barrio San Diego), +57-5-6643648 (info@casacurato.com) [4]. The hotel was recently converted from an 18th century mansion and opened in Dec 2005. Good breakfasts served by Eufemia. Attractively furnished although regular rooms are small and windowless, also lots of mosquitoes. Two internet computers for guests. Rooms from USD 70.
• Casa India Catalina, Calle del Coliseo No 5-67 (Centro), Tel: +57-5-6644361 (casaindiacatalina@gmail.com) [5]. Also recently converted, opened in 2006. Spacious rooms, some with balconies onto the street. Decent swimming pool. Simple furnishings. No hot water. Rooms from USD 60.
• Casa Mara, Calle del Espiritu Santo, No 29-139 (Getsemani), Tel: +57-5-6648724. Rooms from USD 85.
• Hotel Bahia, Cra 4a-Calle 4a (Bocagrande), Tel: +57-5-6650316. Rooms from USD 55 to 100.
• Hotel-Hostal Santo Domingo, Calle Santo Domingo, No 33-46 (Centro), Tel: +57-5-6642268 (hsantodomingopiret@yahoo.es). Great location close to the Plaza Santo Domingo. Rooms priced from COP$47,700 (USD 20) for one person to COP$97,700 (USD 40) for six people. A/c extra. Also caters for groups of up to 25.

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Splurge

Up-scale hotels can be found in the San Diego and El Centro area of the old city.

• Agua (Centro) Calle Ayos, No 4-29. Tel: 664-9479. A beautiful boutique hotel with rooms from COP$500,000 plus tax in low season.
• Bantu Hotel (Centro) Calle de la tablada , No 7-62. Tel: 664-3362. A "folcloric" boutique hotel with 25 rooms from USD 100 to USD 200 plus tax in low season. [6]
• Casa El Carretero Calle Del Carretero, # 10B-18 (Getsemani), Tel Colombia: +57-300-660-4475 [7] Rooms from $150 US to $250 US. One of the cities newest boutique hotels in town. Rates include personal chef, broadband internet access and a la cart breakfast and aiport pickup.
• Casa La Fe, Calle 2da de Badillo, No 36-125 (San Diego), Tel: +57-5-6640306 (admin@casalafe.com) [8]. This beautifully restored intimate small hotel was voted 'The Best Hidden Gem hotel' in South America in 2006 by members of the internet forum 'TripAdvisor'. Owned and run by a UK expatriate. Fifteen rooms from USD 100.

• Hotel Sofitel Santa Clara Plaza Cr 8 No 39-29, Calle del Tomo (Barrio San Diego), Tel: +57-5-6646070. superb hotel, superb prices.
• Hotel Santa Teresa Plaza Santa Teresa, Cra 3a, No 31-32 (Centro), Tel: +57-5-6649494.

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Houses

Private luxury houses or apartments with personel to your atention in the San Diego and El Centro area of the old city. they also rent interesting places on the islands of Rosario and provide any transport service.

• Casa El Carretero 5 Star Spanish Villa in Cartagena [9]
• LaHeroica.com [10]
• CasaDelHobo.com [11]

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Apartment rentals

• Colombia Rental offers apartments in the neighbourhoods of Laguito, Bocagrande and in the Old Historic City. 1-2 bedrooms, between USD 50 and USD 100 per day. Tel: 313-530-9349 [12]

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Get out

• About 66 km north of Cartagena is the Volcán del Totumo, a 15m high mud volcano. You can enter the crater and take a mud bath (entrance C$2.000), which is enormous fun and highly recommended. The nearby laguna then serves as a natural bath for washing off the mud.

• Botanical gardens Jardin Botanico de Guillermo Piñeres

• Punta Arena

• La Boquilla a fishing village (pueblo de pescadores) close to Cartagena.

• Bocachica - a fishing village on the island of “Tierrabomba” (pueblo de pescadores)

More from Colombia: Andean Highlands (Colombia), Antioquia, Bogotá, Cúcuta, Caribbean Lowlands, Cartagena, Colombian Amazon, Eastern Plains, Isla Gorgona, Leticia, Pacific Lowlands, Risaralda, San Andrés and Providencia, Tierradentro More from South America: Amazonia, Andes, Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Falkland Islands, Guyana, Los Roques, Pantanal, Paraguay, Peru, Suriname, Tierra del Fuego, Uruguay, Venezuela

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