Bishkek

Bishkek (Бишкек, بىشكهك) (population in 2005 approx. 900,000) is the capital and the largest city of the Kyrgyz Republic (Kyrgyzstan).

Culture and History

Bishkek is a relatively new city set along the Tien Shan mountains in the Chui Valley. It is a relatively new city and has little in the way of historical sites, but is a great base for trips to the mountains, Issyk Kul lake and trekking to the south. Bishkek is, however, an interesting example of a planned city; laid on a grid with wide boulevards flanked by irrigation canals and large trees, buildings with marble facades, and Soviet-style apartment complexes. Many young travelers find Bishkek's nightlife a delight and the people are friendly and very hospitable. Bishkek is a city of largely young people that hang out in parks or small cafes.

Travel to Bishkek - Visa Requirements

By Air

Bishkek's Manas International Airport [1] is a forty minute drive from the city center. Most of the international flights depart and arrive at very early hours of the morning.

You can connect to many cities of the world with daily flights on Aeroflot to Moscow's Sheremyetevo Airport and on Turkish Airlines to Ataturk International Airport in Istanbul. Aeroflot now uses new Airbus 320 aircraft (instead of the older and slightly cramped Tu-154) making the five-hour flight much more comfortable. Additional flights operate during the summer months. bmi flies four days a week from London Heathrow with a fuel stop in Almaty, Kazakhstan. It is nearly an 11-hour flight, and you are not allowed to leave the plane during the fuel stop. Iran Aseman Airlines flies weekly to Mashad, Iran.

You can find additional flights on local carriers to the following cities:

• Urumqi, China
• Yekaterinburg, Russia
• Dushanbe, Tajikistan
• Tashkent, Uzbekistan
• Novosibirsk, Russia
• Dubai, UAE

There are also occasional charter flights to Seoul, New Delhi, Sharjah, and Kabul.

Kyrgyzstan Airlines operates flights to the following domestic locations:

• Osh
• Kerben
• Kazarman

Beware that Kyrgyz airlines do not operate sufficiently on western standards, and all of them are banned from flying over or to the European Union. As there is no state of the art landing system, fog disrupts flights. Be prepared for longer delays in winter.

Residents of the US and most European countries can purchase on arrival a 30-day visa at the airport for US$35. While there are occasional reports of requests for bribes or hassling of passengers, it is very rare. Airport personnel are generally formal and sometimes hospitable. There is an ATM is the basement of the airport, and several small cafes are open around the clock.

Manas International is also home to a US Air Force Base that provides logistics support to the forces in Afghanistan. You can see American fuel tankers and cargo jets sitting alongside old Soviet passenger jets.

Note: There are many aggressive "unofficial" taxi drivers awaiting all incoming flights. The normal rate charged by the major taxi companies to the city center is 350 soms (~$9-10), so you should attempt to bargian for a similar rate if you choose to take one of these taxis.

By train

There is a twice-weekly train service to and from Moscow, called the "Kirgizia" with two days operated by the Kyrgyz railways, and the other two by the Russian railways. The train has 2- and 4-berth sleepers and a restaurant car.

In addition, there is a service that goes to and from Balykchy on the western edge of the Issyk-Kul lake. Although slow and with minimal accommodation, it is one of the most scenic rail trips in Eurasia, sneaking through a thin mountainous alpine pass to the lake.

By Car and Bus

Bishkek is approximately a 3-1/2 hour drive from Almaty, Kazakhstan along a relatively good highway. There are also additional long distance road connections to Taraz, Kazakhstan (leading to Shymkent & Tashkent, Uzbekistan).

You can also share or rent an entire taxi from Almaty. Both KLM and Lufthansa offer bus service from the Almaty airport to Bishkek and back again so travelers can meet their early morning flights. The normal price for a seat in a shared taxi is approximately 500 som.

Truly adventuresome travelers may want to attempt to get to Bishkek via the Chinese/Kyrgyz frontier crossing over the Torugart Pass. The pass connects Kashgar via an important route that runs along what was once the ancient Silk Road, linking Western China with the heart of Central Asia. The pass tops off at a height of 12,310 feet (3,752 meters) and is known as one of the most frustrating passes in Central Asia, as both sides can be closed for holidays, early snowfall, or just for seemingly random reasons. Only attempt this route if you have time and your patience can handle it.

Tours and Getting around Bishkek

There are several options for transportation in Bishkek. Generally tourists use the local taxi services which can be reached through several numbers: 150 Euro (Evro) Taxi, 152 Super Taxi [2], 156 Express Taxi and 188 Salam Taxi, Before 10PM most runs in the city are 75 som and after 100 and 200 som.

There are hundreds of mini-buses (marshrutkas) that ply all parts of the city. They generally cost 5 som for inner-city routes and 7-10 som for longer routes. Ask a local which mini-bus number you should take or buy a map of mini-bus routes at tourist venues. Major stops are near the Tsum department store and Philharmonia. There is also an aging system of electric trolleybuses that run along the major streets for 3 som each.

Bishkek tourist attractions and sightseeing

• Ala-Too Square - The main city square is the site of frequent political demonstrations and regular festivals. At night many vendors set up photograph and karaoke booths, however travelers should avoid visiting the square after dark. There is also a military monument with an hourly changing of guards.

• National Historical Museum - This museum sits between Ala-Too Square and the Parliament building. On the south side is an enormous statue of Lenin that was moved from the north side of the building after the Soviet Era. The bottom story of this three floor museum displays seasonal exhibits, while the second highlights Soviet-era achievements during the Communist Era. The top floor showcases the history and culture of the Kyrgyz people.

• Panfilov Park - While this park may be in need upkeep and renovation, it's a great look into the past when Kyrgyzstan was a part of the Soviet Union. Beware that few of the rides have any safety mechanisms, and the safety mechanisms they may appear to have are probably not functional. The ferris wheel offers a great view of the greater city.

• Osh Bazaar - If you're looking for a fresh sheep's head, locally made Korean picked salad, shashlik or any other type of Kyrgyz snack, this is the city's best known food bazaar. There are hundreds of products to choose from, especially in the spring and summer months when produce is fresh from farms in the outskirts of town. Like any crowded space, be wary of pick-pockets; however visiting the Osh Bazaar is a most and rewarding trip.

Learn

Bishkek is a cheap place to learn Russian (or Kyrgyz). A private 1 1/2 hour lesson with a native Russian speaker should cost between $5-7. Courses are also available at the American University of Central Asia [3] and the Kyrgyz-Russian-Slavic University[4].

There is also a private school that caters to individual learning: The London School in Bishkek [5]. This school offers Russian and Kyrgyz to anyone at anytime of the year for as little as 120 soms/hr. During the warmer months they are often full so book in advance.

Work

A number of international organizations have offices in Bishkek, however most employees are recruited from abroad. If you speak Russian, there might be occasional opportunities to find temporary or long-term work. There are also a number of English language schools that will employ native English speakers.

Bishkek souvenirs and shopping

If you want to fit in with the locals, be sure to get one of the stylish Kyrgyz felt hats (kalpaks) worn mainly by men. You can also get textiles such as traditional patterned carpets (shyrdaks), which are well-made but can be expensive. For cheap souvenirs, avoid the Tsum department store and head directly for the Osh Bazaar. You may have to dig around the stalls as there isn't as much variety or quality as in Tsum, but the prices can be far cheaper if you put your bargaining skills to the test.

Bishkek Restaurants: cheap, moderate and expensive

A typical Kyrgyz meal will feature starchy foods like bread, rice, and potatoes, usually centered around some sort of meat, usually lamb, mutton or beef or even sometimes horse meat. Some of the more popular staples are "plov", a Central Asian dish consisting of a bed of rice cooked in oil, topped with lamb or mutton, shredded carrots, and occasionally whole garlic cloves. Shashlyk, a marinated and grilled lamb, mutton or beef kebab, is popular all over the former Soviet Union and is typically eaten with bread, raw onion slices, a voluminous amount of vodka. Somsas, much like the Indian samosa, are available at roadside stands across the city. Usually these are cooked in a tandoor oven and filled with mutton and mutton fat.

The national dish of Kyrgyzstan is called besh barmak (literally: five fingers, because the dish is eaten with one's hands). It usually consists of horse meat, although sometimes mutton or beef is substituted in, that has been boiled and served mixed with homemade noodles. A sheep's head is usually served along side it. If you can land an invitation to a wedding in Bishkek, you'll most likely get a chance to eat besh barmak, although you can also find it are traditional restaurants.

Russian dishes are also fairly ubiquitous in Bishkek because of the large number of ethnic Russians who still live in the city. There are a also growing number of restaurants and cafes catering to more varied tastes.

Budget

There are hundreds of "Gamburger" stands which are a local adaptation to the American hamburger but share little in common. They are sliced döner kebab style meat served on a bun with cole-slaw, cucumber, mayonnaise, ketchup, and a couple of fries. They usually cost around 20 som (~$.50)

The most popular "Gamburger" stand in Bishkek is at the corner of Sovietskaya and Kievskaya, across the street from the main post office. It is a popular area for local students to pick up a cheap meal and they even serve the rare chicken hamburger.

In addition, throughout the cities are numerous vendors selling "samsi", which are a puff baked pastry with beef or chicken and onions cooked inside. These are the staple of most locals' lunch meal.

For a truly Soviet experience try the cafeterias of government ministries and universities. For under $1 USD you can experience true Soviet cafeteria food.

Cheap

• Fakir (Behind Bishkek City) provides authentic and safe local food. Popular with locals. Non-smoking areas available. Good sized portions and excellent prices. (~$2-4)

• Faiza (Jibek Jolu) excellent local food frequented by locals. Great samsas and lagman. Dirt cheap. (~$2-4)

Mid-range

• Cafe Starry Edgar Located behind the Russian Drama Theatre. This is one of the most popular places with the expat crowd. In the summer, there is ample outdoor seating. In the winter, the bomb-shelter style location decorated in a nautical motif presents Bishkek's most original dining venue. The food is okay, but the house band has entertained generations of visitors.

• Aria Located one block south of Vefa Center, this Iranian-owned restaurant serves good Iranian and Turkish dishes while also offering the usual Russian fare. The multi-flavored kalyan-hookahs also attract a wide, hipster crowd.

• Dolce Vita Pizza (on Akhunbaeva, to the east of Manas, about one block) The best pizza available in Bishkek. Its thin crust is baked in an open fire oven; there is also a whole range of Italian dishes and pastas. ($6-9 USD)

• Doka Pizza (corner of Akhunbaeva and Sovietskaya) Possibly the most popular restaurant in Bishkek. It has regular entertainment and a menu featuring other dishes than pizza. The shashlyk is also good here. No English menu. ($5-7 USD)

• Metro Pub (Chui and Turizbekova) This is where the aid workers, embassy staff, miners, and contractors from the airbase all come together in the most international environment in Bishkek to down a pint and grab a decent meal. The staff are also quite popular and used to the flirting. They are especially crowded on St. Patrick's Day and Halloween. (~$5-7)

• Shao Lin (Jibek Jolu and Isanova) is one of the best known Chinese restaurants in Bishkek. The quality is up to most western standards, but tends to still be a little oily. The soups are especially large -- better to be shared. (~$5-7)

• Watari (corner of Frunze & Schevchenko, near the Grand Hotel) Japanese cafe with good vegetarian options. Healthy and delicious - a good break from the normally oily Bishkek food. (~5-7)

Splurge

• Restaurant Adriatico (Chuy and Togolok Moldo), owned by an Italian who imported his own Italian chef. The prices are slightly higher, but the handmade mozarella and homemade gelato are well worth it. (~$15-20)

• Four Seasons Restuarant delicious food; large menu of European and Asian foods; very expensive; you can eat outside in the summer; live music; baby sitting; popular with foreign dignitaries.

Bishkek nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs

For young and single people, Bishkek's nightlife is impressive. Foreigners are welcomed at most venues with open arms, and many times they do not pay a cover charge. Please note: Nightclubs can be very dangerous, and you should be aware of your surroundings. Like anywhere else, keep a cool head and be especially careful of hanging outside of nightclubs. Most clubs have numerous buff and semi-professional security guards.

• Golden Bull near the White House is one of the most popular nightclubs in Bishkek. On any night of the week you are guaranteed to find a large and lively crowd. Warning: Pickpockets abound at this venue. Do not leave any belongings on the table while you go to dance. Be careful around the taxi area outside the club; occasionally, unsavory characters pick this location to mug drunk foreigners as they leave the club in the wee hours. Do not expect any assistance from club security when it comes to theft.

• Fire and Ice Chui and Erkindik, is another popular spot.

• Promzona is a Russian rock establishment with a mostly Russian clientèle. It closes by 2AM on the weekends.

• Sweet 60s Maladaya gvardiya and Kievskaya (near cinema Oktyabr) has live music everyday, with jazz evenings on Wednesday and Sunday.

Bishkek cheap and luxurious hotels, youth hostels and lodging

Budget

South guest house [6] is great. It's in a nice neighborhood away from the pollution and crime in the center. The owner is helpful and friendly. If it's crowded and you want some privacy, he'll put you up at his sister's house for about the same price.

Nomad's home [7] is a sweet place to stay. It costs 200 soms per night ($5/6), breakfast included. It is the first guesthouse with a yurt and a friendly barbecue place ! Information notes on walls are very helpfull. It is located near the East Bus station, on Drevesnaya 10. Tel : +996 312 29 99 55 or +996 772 74 24 20.

Mid-range

• Alpanist, Panfilov 113. The Alpanist is one of the best deals in town, for those willing to pay a bit more for a lot more luxury. $36 for a single, you get a very nice room, shower with consistent hot water, toilet with a strong enough flush for toilet paper, the nicer toilet paper (not the usual sandpaper), and yes, air conditioning! The highlight of this place for us, however, was the existance of English speaking CNN and BBC (even the MBA Business Center Hotel doesn't have this).

• MBA Business Center Hotel, Panfilov 237 at Panfilov and Frunze. Large spacious rooms, $60 for single, $76 for double (breakfast included), filled with uncomfortable beds and showers with iffy hot and cold water pressure. However, the space makes up for the lack of comfort, and the staff is friendly.

Splurge

• Ak Keme Hotel, Prospekt Mira 93(In the centre of Bishkek), ☎ +996 312 54 01 43/44/45/52(info@akkeme.kg), [8]. checkin: 14:00pm; checkout: 12:00pm. Has a business center, restaurant, pool and sauna. 
• Hyatt Regency Bishkek, Sovietskaya 191(In the centre of Bishkek), ☎ +996 312 66 1234(bishkek@hyattintl.com), [9]. checkin: 12:00pm; checkout: 15:00pm. Has a casino, outdoor pool and spa. 
• Jannat Hotel, 7. Micro Rayon(South of the centre of Bishkek), ☎ +996 312 911210(office@jannat-hotel.kg), [10]. checkin: 14:00pm; checkout: 12:00pm. Has a restaurant, business center and high speed internet in the rooms. 
• Club Hotel Bishkek, Frunze 425-B(In the centre of Bishkek), ☎ +996 312 683 888(info@dostuk.kg), [11]. checkin: 12:00pm; checkout: 15:00pm. Has free Wi fi, IP telephone, business room. 

Contact

Stay safe

Bishkek is not particularly safe at night. It is highly recommended against taking an unaccompanied stroll at night.

• Stay out of the parks at night and avoid walking alone or in small groups at night.
• At night, stay away from the area around and especially in front of the Dostuk hotel (where Heaven is located). The area is known for prostitution and crime.
• DO NOT walk from nightclub to nightclub at night. Spend 100 som (about $2.50) for a taxi instead. Criminals wait outside the bars and clubs (especially the ones frequented by ex-pats), follow drunk ex-pats, and then rob them.
• Above all, be careful in Bishkek. There's a lot of crime and foreigners are targeted.
• Due to the extremely high rate of prostitution, there is a very high level of venereal diseases- take precautions if you are having direct sexual contact.
• Do not bother to report crime to the police. Do not go anywhere with them alone. Always carry a photocopy of your passport, don't show them your original, and don't believe them when they try to fine you for having "the wrong visa".
• Beware of irrigation ditches and other holes in the ground, especially when walking at night - many streets are not lit at all, and it is easy to fall into them. Avoid manhole covers, grates, and similar fixtures - they are frequently loose and may also cause you to fall (or they may be missing altogether)!

Cope

• For some, Bishkek is a little like Eastern Europe 20 years ago. For others, it is just a poor city, with little character. Possibly somewhere in the middle lies the truth. Bishkek is not an old city and possesses few, if any, landmarks. For most travelers, it is just a stop on the Silk Road to refresh supplies and return to the mountains. But, for many international workers and their visiting guests, it is home.

Come with modest expectations, and you will be pleasantly surprised!

• Bishkek Video Rental & Used Bookstore 259 Prospect Chui - ph:996 503.928.016

They stock a large array of English language movies and used books, and are located near the infamous Metro Pub. They will buy your used books. Open every day from 10-21:00 and until 22:00 on Friday/Saturdays.

Get out

Only thirty minutes away are 4,000 meter peaks of the Tien Shan (Celestial Mountains).

• Al-Archa National Park This park goes the length of one of the most beautiful valleys and you can hike in several kilometers to a glacier. It also features a hotel and couple of small cafes. Taxi services can take you and wait a few hours for about 1000 soms ($25).

This page was last edited by Zain Iqbal. Based on work by cz, Stefan Ertmann and Constantin Popa, Wikitravel user(s) Vidimian and Aelfthrytha, Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel and others. - Content on this page is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 1.0 license