Berlin

Berlin [1] is the capital city of Germany and one of the 16 states (Länder) of the Federal Republic of Germany. Berlin is the largest city in Germany and has a population of 4.3 million within its metropolitan area and 3.4 million within the city limits. Berlin is best known for its historical associations as the German capital, for its lively nightlife, for its many cafes, clubs, and bars, and for its numerous museums, palaces, and other sites of historic interest. Berlin's architecture is quite varied: though badly damaged in the final years of World War II, Berlin has reconstructed itself greatly, and it is now possible to see representatives of many different historic periods in a short time within the compact city center, from a few surviving medieval buildings near Alexanderplatz, to the ultramodern glass and steel structures in Potsdamer Platz.

Districts

In Berlin there is more than one downtown area. Berlin has many districts or boroughs, called Bezirke, and each district has its unique style. Each Bezirk is composed of several Kieze - a Berlin term referring to "neighborhood", with their unique style. Some districts of Berlin are more worthy of the traveller's attention than others.

Following are the districts of greatest interest:

• Mitte - the historical center of Berlin and the nucleus of the former East Berlin. Many cafes, restaurants, museums, galleries and clubs throughout the district, along with many sites of historic interest.
• Charlottenburg - heart of City West and centered around the Schloss Charlottenburg
• Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg - associated with the left wing youth culture, artists and Turkish immigrants (the latter especially in Kreuzberg), this district is somewhat noisier than most, lots of cafes, bars and clubs, but also some museums in Kreuzberg near the border to Mitte.
• Prenzlauer Berg - a trendy area undergoing gentrification, north of the city center. Popular with students, artists and media professionals, lots of cafes and bars
• Schöneberg - cosy area for ageing hippies, young families and homosexual people. Famous are the markets on Saturdays, the street cafes (e.g. Akazienstrasse) and the laissez-faire life style.
• Zehlendorf - Zehlendorf is one of the greenest and wealthiest districts in Berlin and the biggest university in town (Freie Universität) is located here, but often ignored are the great museums and some important historical buildings.

Areas of interest that are not districts but known rather by name than by district

• Ku'Damm - one of the main shopping streets in Berlin, especially for luxury goods. Many great restaurants and hotels, also in the side roads.
• Potsdamer Platz - once divided in two by the Berlin Wall, this area has been newly developed since reunification in a modern style. It has a large shopping center and two movie theatre complexes (3D IMAX and a multiplex showing only original English versions of first-run films). On fine days, the piazza under the spectacular dome of the Sony Center (designed by Helmut Jahn), has become a mecca for both Berliners and tourists.

Berlin has been officially divided into 12 large districts (Bezirke) since January 2001, a simplification of the previous 23 smaller districts (Stadtteile, Bezirke) that was undertaken purely for administrative efficiency. The smaller districts remain foremost in popular conceptions of the city, however, and are generally of a more practical size and cultural division for the purposes of the traveller. New names are usually compounded from the old names (e.g. Charlottenburg and Wilmersdorf merged to Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf)

New borough	Old boroughs
Mitte	Mitte, Tiergarten, Wedding
Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg	Friedrichshain, Kreuzberg
Pankow	Prenzlauer Berg, Weißensee, Pankow
Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf	Charlottenburg, Wilmersdorf
Spandau	Spandau (unchanged)
Steglitz-Zehlendorf	Steglitz, Zehlendorf
Tempelhof-Schöneberg	Tempelhof, Schöneberg
Neukölln	Neukölln (unchanged)
Treptow-Köpenick	Treptow, Köpenick
Marzahn-Hellersdorf	Marzahn, Hellersdorf
Lichtenberg	Lichtenberg, Hohenschönhausen
Reinickendorf	Reinickendorf (unchanged)

Culture and History

History

The foundation of Berlin was very multicultural. The surrounding area was populated by Germanic Swabian and Burgundian tribes, as well as Slavic Wends in prechristian times, and the Wends have stuck around. Their modern descendants are the Sorbian Slavic-language minority who live in villages southeast of Berlin near the Spree river.

In the beginning of the 13th century two towns (Berlin and Cölln) developed on each side of the river Spree (today the Nikolaiviertel and the quarter next to it beyond the river). As the population grew, the towns merged and Berlin became a center for commerce and the region's agriculture, but stayed small (about 10.000 inhabitants) up to the late 17th century - also because of the 30 years' war in the beginning of the 17th century, which led to death of about half of the population.

Since the the late 17th century, when large numbers of French Huguenots fled religious persecution, Berlin has welcomed asylum seekers, religious, economic or otherwise. 1701 Berlin became capital of Prussia and 1710 Berlin and surrounding former autonomous cities were merged to a bigger Berlin. 1871 Berlin became the capital of the new founded German Reich and a few years later, also because of the immensely growing industry, a city with more than one million inhabitants. Shortly after the first world war, in 1920, the last of the annexations of surrounding cities of Berlin led to the foundation of the Berlin as we know it nowadays. After the coming into power of the National Socialists, Berlin became the capital of the so called Third Reich and the domicile and office of Hitler (though the triumph of Hitler and his companions started in the south of Germany).

WW II led to destruction of most of central Berlin, thus many of the buildings which we see nowadays are reconstructed or planned and built after the war, which led to a very fragmented cityscape in most parts of the inner town. Berlin was divided into four sectors (West Berlin into the French, American and British sector, East Berlin belonged to the USSR) because of the 2nd World War and in 1949 the GDR was founded with East Berlin as its capital - West Berlin belonged to West Germany (with Bonn as capital) and was a political Island in East Germany. Because of the growing tensions between West Germany and the GDR, latter built a wall between the countries - and around West Berlin, so the division was complete.

In 1989 the reunification started, the wall fell and in 1990 West and East Germany were merged officially together. Berlin became the capital of the reunified Germany in 1999.

After WW II and the building of the wall large numbers of immigrants from Turkey were invited to West Berlin to work in the growing industry sector - in east Berlin the jobs were done mostly by vietnamese immigrants. But also people from other communist countries, including the former Yugoslavia, not to mention Soviet soldiers who refused to return home, have helped to make Berlin more multicultural than ever.

Berlin is also a youth-oriented city. Before German unification, West Berliners were exempt from the West German civil/military service requirement. Social activists, pacifists and anarchists of all stripes moved to Berlin for that reason alone. Musicians and artists were given state subsidies. It was easy to stay out all night thanks to liberal bar licensing laws, and staying at university for years without ever getting a degree was a great way to kill time. In constrast with most of Germany, Prenzlauer Berg is said to have the highest per-capita birth rate in Europe (in fact it just seems so because of the high percentage of young women in the district).

After the fall of the wall, Berlin - especially the former East - has evolved into a cultural mecca. Artists and other creative souls flocked to the city in swarms after reunification, primarily due to the extremely low cost of living in the East. Despite the increased prices and gentrification as a result, Berlin has become a center for art, design, multimedia, electronic music, and fashion among other things. The particularly high number of students and young people in the city has only helped this cause. Just stroll down a street in Prenzlauer Berg, Friedrichshain, or Mitte to get a glimpse of the new East Berlin.

Some famous artists of the region and their best-known works include Lucas Cranach the Elder, Lucas Cranach the Younger, Johann Gottfried Schadow, Marlene Dietrich (The Blue Angel), Leni Riefenstahl (Triumph of the Will), Bertolt Brecht (Threepenny Opera), Käthe Kollwitz, Kurt Tucholsky, Thomas and Heinrich Mann, Walter Gropius, Paul Klee, FW Murnau (Nosferatu), Fritz Lang (Metropolis), Volker Schlöndorff, Wim Wenders (Wings of Desire (German: Der Himmel über Berlin)), Blixa Bargeld/Einstürzende Neubauten, Christopher Isherwood, Gunter Grass (The Tin Drum), members of the Bauhaus architectural movement and many more.

People

Berlin is a relatively young city by European standards, dating to the thirteenth century, and it has always had a reputation as a place filled with people from elsewhere. Someone who has lived in Berlin for ten years will see themselves as a "true Berliner," looking down on the person who has only been there for five. It may seem tough to find someone born and raised here! This is part of Berlin's charm: it never gets stuck in a rut.

A certain uneasy detente still exists between some former residents of East and West Berlin (and Germany). Wessi evolved as a derogatory nickname for a West German; its corollary is Ossi. The implication here is that after reunification, the West Germans automatically assumed the way they do things is the right way, and the way the Easterners should start doing it, too. Westerners got a reputation for being arrogant. They saw the Easterners as stubborn Communist holdouts only interested in a handout from the "rich West". Consider a shirt for sale in a shop inside the Alexanderplatz Deutsche Bahn station: Gott, schütze mich vor Sturm und Wind/und Wessies die im Osten sind ("God, protect me from the storm and wind, and Wessies who are in the East"). However, most of the younger generation do not share such biases.

Economy

One of the most important "products" produced in Berlin by both academic and company-sponsored institutes is research. That research is exported around the world just like tangible goods. German labor is highly efficient but comes at high cost. Strong trade unions, the end of West Berlin's pre-reunification subsidies and Germany's dense regulatory environment forced industry to cencentrate on high quality and expensive products. Students went on strike in Berlin to oppose tuition fees in recent years. The universities have grown to their limits and most schools do not get sufficient funding. Students, housewives and self-employed people are not included in Berlin's official unemployment rate, currently standing at a whopping 16 percent (may 2007).

Orientation

Berlin is - at least in many parts - a beautiful city so allow enough time to get to see the sights. A good map, such as the Rough Guide Berlin map, is highly recommended. While the public transport system is superb, it can be confusing to foreigners, due to a lack of signs in some of the larger stations, so a good rail map is also essential. Roads into Berlin can also be confusing, so plan your route and drive carefully. Signs point to city districts rather than indicating compass directions, so it's a good idea to get to know where the various districts lie in relation to each other. This also applies to cyclists.

Berlin's Tourist Information Office is an excellent resource for finding out more about Berlin, providing a wealth of practical information and useful links.

Travel to Berlin, visa requirements

As the city was divided into two during the Cold War, many major parts of Berlin's infrastructure — such as airports — were built on both the east and west side. After the demolition of the Wall the challenge has been to merge these formerly independent systems into one that serves all people in the metropolitan Berlin area.

By air

Berlin has three airports [2]:

• Tegel International Airport (ICAO: EDDT, IATA: TXL) - located in the north-west of the city; the main airport for the flagcarriers (Lufthansa, BA, Air France, KLM, Delta etc) and hub for domestic flights as well as those from western Europe and the USA. Buses from Tegel operate to S+U Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof (bus TXL) and S+U Zoologischer Garten (buses X9 and 109) for the standard ticket fare. Attention! Do not take any train to the "Tegel" railway (S-Bahn) station, which is not connected to the airport, but rather to the suburban village called Tegel. It is not possible to walk or to otherwise easily get to the airport from that station. Tegel airport does not have any railway station. Any indication to a Tegel railway station refers to the remote S-Bahn station, even if railway staff at stations in other cities might tell otherwise.

• Schönefeld (ICAO: EDDB, IATA: SXF) - small airport southeast of the city centre; increasingly the focus for low-cost airlines (e.g. Easyjet and GermanWings) and charter flights in addition to traffic from Asia and eastern Europe. The airport is served by the S-Bahn and train: the line S9 will take you conveniently to (and through) the city centre via such major stations as U Ostbahnhof, S+U Alexanderplatz, S Hauptbahnhof and S+U Zoologischer Garten. There are also less regular but faster regional trains that cost the same and stop at these major train stations too. In S-Bahn and regional trains between the airport and the city, the public transport ticket (zones A and B, 2,10 EUR) can be used. Stamp before boarding.

• Tempelhof (ICAO: EDDI, IATA: THF) - a small relic of the pre-war era due for closure in October 2008, Tempelhof is located immediately south of the city centre but has only a small number of connections serviced mainly by domestic and european flights (Eurowings, DBA, Windrose Air, SN Brussels and numerous minor business carriers). Take U6 at Platz der Luftbrücke to Friedrichstrasse Station.

Construction of the new Airport Berlin Brandenburg International[3] has started at Schönefeld and the new airport is scheduled for opening in 2011. After this, all air traffic in the Berlin-Brandenburg region will be bundled at BBI, and other airports in the region closed down.

Various airlines, such as Lufthansa, British Airways and Air France have direct flight connections between Berlin and major German and European cities. Lufthansa, the German flag carrier airline, has several own counters in Tegel. It can be difficult to find a direct flight to Berlin from outside of Europe. Most airlines will fly to their major hub airports such as Frankfurt and Munich and offer connecting (or code-share) flights to Berlin.

Since end of 2005 Delta and Continental Airlines have established daily direct flights from New York (JFK and Newark).

Buses to Berlin

As with all major cities, many bus companies offer connections to Berlin, both national and international, from over 350 destinations in Europe. Long distance buses arrive at Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof (Central Bus Terminal) in Charlottenburg. From there take the S-Bahn (station Messe Nord) or bus into town.

By train

Berlin is served by IC, ICE, EuroCity and InterRegio trains. The German train corporation Deutsche Bahn [4] (DB) offers ICE connections between Berlin and other major German cities. If you arrive in Berlin on a national (non-regional) DB trip, you are entitled to use your ticket to travel by S-Bahn (local commuter trains), but not U-Bahn (the city's underground system), to your destination as the S-Bahn is operated by the DB.

Several night trains from/to Amsterdam, Paris, Zurich and Vienna (special offer for 29 euros in one direction) travel every day. They are popular with backpackers so reservations are recommended. Long-haul trains to Eastern European cities (Warsaw, Kaliningrad and Moscow) mostly use the Bahnhof Lichtenberg in Eastern Berlin. Make sure you have a reservation because these lines are also very popular.

Stations

During the times of its division, Berlin had two main train stations: Zoologischer Garten (Bahnhof Zoo for short) in the West, and Hauptbahnhof in the East. After the fall of the wall the former Hauptbahnhof has been renamed Ostbahnhof.

The new building for the central station Hauptbahnhof [5] was opened in May 2006 and together with Südkreuz (southern cross) and Ostbahnhof (eastern station) - plus minor Gesundbrunnen in the north and Spandau in the north west - form the backbone of all connections. All are connected to either S- or U-Bahn (planned is both). All trains travel through central station and a second major hub (depending on the destination you travel to or arrive from). Trains in the regional area (Berlin and Brandenburg) mostly use these stations. Regional trains stop at several stations within Berlin.

By car

All main roads and motorways join the Berliner Ring, or the A10, from which you can access the inner city. The city motorway is usually very crowded during rush hour.

Get around

Berlin's city centers (in East and West) are compact and many of the major sights and venues there can be accessed easily enough on foot. Even so, a traveller can make use of the excellent bus, tram, train and underground services to get around. Taxi services are also easy to use and a bit less expensive than in many other big Central European cities. You can hail a cab (the yellow light on the top shows the cab is free), or find a taxi rank (Taxistand). Be sure you get the driver's attention before you get in at a taxi stand, he or she may be asleep. Taxi drivers are in general able to speak English.

Check the Berlin route planner [6] (in English) to get excellent maps and schedules for the U-Bahn, Buses, S-Bahn and Trams, or to print your personal journey planner. The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) have a detailed fare list on their web site [7].

A standard ticket is valid on all the different types of transportation with unlimited changes. Berlin uses a zone system, but you are unlikely to need to go beyond zone A & B, except on trips to Potsdam. This is a very large area, even including Schönefeld airport. If you're going to be traveling a lot by public transport, consider getting a Tageskarte day card (€6.10 for zone A & B) or the Berlin WelcomeCard [8], which gets you unlimited travel in zones A and B for €16/21 for 2/3 days (or in zones ABC for €17,50/24) plus discounts at many of Berlin's tourist attractions (you may check if you want to visit some of them, cause otherwise it's not profitable, as it's more expensive than 2 or 3 single day tickets). Weekly passes for all kind of public transport valid inside zone A and B are available for €25,40. (Most of the interesting places reported here are in the A zone, some in the B zone and only Potsdam is in the C zone)

There are vending machines selling all ticket types on the platforms at every station of the U-Bahn and S-Bahn. They offer instructions in many languages including English, but if you need assistance most larger stations have staffed ticket counters where you can ask questions and buy tickets. Before you get on the train you need to validate your ticket using the machines on the platform (or in the bus). The machines are yellow/white in the U-Bahn and the bus, and red on S-Bahn platforms. Validation simply means the machine prints a time stamp onto the ticket. Once validated, a ticket which is still valid will not have to be re-validated before each single trip. You will pay a €40 fine if you are caught with an unvalidated ticket.

If you don't know how to get somewhere, or how to get home at night call 030 19449, the Customer Service of the BVG. There are also facilities in most U-Bahn and some S-Bahn stations to contact the Customer Service directly. In 2005 the BVG introduced Metro lines (buses and tram) that run 24 hours a day, seven days a week. All lines are marked with a big orange plate and a white M.

In some places like Zoologischer Garten and Eberswalder Straße people will try to sell used tickets to you. Be aware that you can go only one direction with a single-journey ticket(check the validation stamp and be careful as this could also be a pickpocket trick). Don't pay more than half the price.

It's also worth noting that the house numbers do not necessarily run in one direction (up or down). On a lot of streets, the numbers ascend on one side and descend on the other. Especially on long streets check the numbering scheme first: you can find the name of the street and the numbers on that block at nearly every street corner.

By train

The Berlin U-Bahn (subway/metro) is something to behold; it is so charmingly precise! There are no turnstiles to limit access, so it is technically possible to ride without a ticket, but if caught by a ticket checkers you will be fined €40 so it is probably not worth the risk. All U-bahn stations now have electronic signs that give the time of the next train, and its direction based on sensors along the lines.

Detailed maps can be found in every U-bahn station on the trains. Don't be confused by the alternative tram maps. U-Bahn stations can be seen from far by their big, friendly blue U signs. Together with the S-Bahn [9] (which is administered by Deutsche Bahn and mostly runs aboveground), the U-Bahn provides a transportation network throughout greater Berlin that is extremely efficient and fast. On weekend (friday to sunday), as well as during the Christmas and New Year holidays, all U-Bahn and S-Bahn lines (except line U4) run all night, so returning from late night outings is easy, especially given the average start time of most 'parties' in Berlin (11 p.m. to 1 a.m.). During week is no U-Bahn or S-Bahn service from appr. 1 a.m. to 4.30 a.m., but metro trams/buses and special Night Buses (parallel to the U-Bahn line) run every half an hour from 0.30 to 4.30 a.m.

For a single journey you can buy a cheap Kurzstrecke for €1.20, but this is only valid for 3 stops on the U-Bahn or S-Bahn (six stops by bus or tram). You may not change. For a longer single journey you must pay €2.10, which is valid for anywhere in zone A & B for two hours after validating. Note that you may only ride in one direction with one single journey, you are not allowed to go around.

By tram

The trams are mostly in East Berlin, as in the West the tram lines were removed to facilitate more vehicular traffic. If you don't have a ticket already, you can buy one inside the tram.

Two types of tram service are available. Metrotrams frequent more often as well as by night. Tram routes not so identified stop more frequently and may even include picturesque single-track rides through forested areas far east of the Mitte district.

Buses to Berlin

Buses are of course the most slow public transport vehicles, but they will get you in every corner of Berlin. There are also tram buses and normal buses, comparable to the tram system.

The most famous bus line especially for tourists is 100, which leaves from Zoo Station ("Berlin Zoologischer Garten") or - if you wanna go the other way round - Alexanderplatz, and crosses most of historic Berlin, including many of the sites listed here. For the price of a city bus ticket or daily pass it's possible to see much of the city from one of these double-decker tour buses. Sit up top as it's easier to see the Reichstag, as well as the many historic buildings on Unter den Linden. If you're lucky, you'll get the legendary bus-driver who delivers a commentary (in Berlin-accented German) on the trip. Line 200 takes nearly the same route, but it goes through the modern quarters around Potsdamer Platz. Either ride is a must do on any trip to Berlin.

By cycle

Bicycle is another great way to tour Berlin. Berlin offers many bicycle paths (Radwege) throughout the city (although not all are very smooth), and has very few steep hills. Bicycles are a very popular method of transportation among Berlin residents, and there is almost always a certain level of bicycle traffic. Bicycle rentals are available in the city, although the prices vary (usually from €7.50 per day). In addition, the Deutsche Bahn (DB) placed many public bicycles [10] throughout the city in 2003. These can be unlocked by calling a number on the bicycle with a cellphone (called "handy" in German). Seeing Berlin by bicycle is unquestionably a great way, that will acquaint the traveler with the big tourist sites, and the little Sprees and side streets as well. Although it's good to carry your own map, you can also always check your location at any U-Bahn station and many Bus Stations. Individual arranged cycling maps you can create online, optimized by less busy routes or fewer traffic lights or your favorite paving [11].

Berlin attractions and sightseeing

Museums

Berlin has a vast array of museums. Most museums charge admission for people aged 16 or older - usually €6 to €8 (only available is a day ticket with which one can also visit the other state museums - except special exhibitions) for the big museums, discounts (usually 50%) are available for students and disabled people with identification. However, the state-run museums [12] grant free entrance four hours before closing every Thursday. A nice offer for museum addicts is the three day pass for €15 (reduced €7.50), which grants entrance to all the normal exhibitions of the appr. 50 state run museums. Note that most museums are closed on Mondays!

The main museums (for a more detailed list check the district articles) are:

• Museuminsel. Literally "Museum Island", this area is best known for the vast Pergamonmuseum, which houses an extensive collection of ancient Greek, ancient Middle-Eastern and Islamic art and architecture. Other museums which belong to the Museum Island are the Altes Museum (with the Egyptian and the antique collection), the Alte Nationalgalerie (with mainly German paintings of the 19th century) and the recently reopened (October 2006) Bodemuseum with its fantastically presented sculpture collection and Byzantine art. [13]. The Neues Museum is under restoration and will open in 2009, it will harbour the Egyptian collection then.
• Deutsches Historisches Museum, Unter den Linden 2, tel. 20 30 40, [14]. German historical museum coverung everything from pre-history right up to the present day. One can spend many, many hours here!
• Jüdisches Museum, Lindenstraße 9-14, tel. +39 30 25993 300, [15]. 10AM-8PM. Jewish Museum. Learn about the history of jews in Berlin. Exhibitions of art and impressive modern architecture by Liebeskind.
• Information center at the memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, [16]. Holocaust museum at the impressive Holocaust memorial near the Brandenburg gate, entrance free, usually a long line.
• Gemäldegalerie, Matthäikirchplatz, tel. 266 2951, [17]. Thousands of European paintings from the 13th to the 18th century. Works from Dürer, Raffael, Tizian, Caravaggio, Rembrandt and Rubens.
• Neue Nationalgalerie, Potsdamer Straße 50, tel. 266 2951, [18] Art from the 20th Century.
• Hamburger Bahnhof, Invalidenstraße 50-51, tel. 3978 3439, [19]. Contemporary Art in a very nice building.
• Museum für Naturkunde, [20]. Natural science museum with a big collection of dinosaur skeletons, fossils and minerals. Opened, but under restoration (some pieces are not shown) till summer 2007.
• Deutsches Technikmuseum, Trebbiner Straße 9, [21]. Museum for science and technology with many interesting objects, very interactive.
• Berlinische Galerie, Alte Jakobstraße 124-128, [22]. Collection of modern art, related in any way to Berlin, nicely organized and well selected.
• Museum für Fotografie, Jebenstrasse 2 (just out the Zoologischer Garten Bahnhof), [23]. This museum is dedicated to Helmut Newton and usually hosts a part of his works in a temporary exibition.
• Mauermuseum at Checkpoint Charlie, [24]. This museum is situated at the most famous historical checkpoint between the two Germanies.
• Deutsche Guggenheim, Unter den Linden 13-15 (U6 Franzoische Strasse), tel. 030 20 20 93, [25]. Compared to New York, Bilbao and Venezia it is a relatively small exhibition place. It usually hosts a temporary exibition and is free on Monday, with a free guided tour starting at 6PM. Since the place is small and the name "Guggenheim" a very famous one, the place is often very crowded.
• Museum Scharf-Gerstenberg. A museum dedicated to surrealist art. Will be reopened near Charlottenburg Palace in 2008.
• Museum Bröhan, [26]. Dedicated to art nouveau. Near Charlottenburg Palace.
• Museum of Prehistoty and Early History at the Charlottenburg Palace. Best known for its Trojan collection excavated by the famous discoveror of Troy, Schliemann.
• Museum of European Cultures. The biggest of its sort in Europe. At the museum district of Dahlem.
• Ethnological Museum. Again one of the world's most comprehensive ones. At the museum district of Dahlem.
• Museum of Asian Art. At the Dahlem museum district. Includes East Asian as well as Indian sections.
• Gropius House (Bauhaus Museum), [27].
• Kolbe Museum, [28]. A museum dedicated to the Berlin sculpturor.
• Zille Museum, [29]. A museum dedicated to the Berlin artist.
• Kollwitz Museum, [30]. A museum dedicated to the Berlin artist.
• Museum of Applied Arts divided between two sites - the Culture Forum (together with the Picture Gallery) and Koepenick Castle.
• Anti-War Museum, [31].
• The Story of Berlin, [32]. A museum documenting Berlin's history. You can also visit an underground bunker with place for more than 3000 people.
• German-Russian Museum, [33]. This museum describes the history of the DDR-Russian relationship during the Cold War.
• Topography of Terror, [34]. This open-air museum documents the terror applied by the Nazi regime. It consists of excavated prison cells located directly under a remaining stretch of the Berlin Wall.
• DDR Museum, [35]. A museum dedicated to every day life at the DDR time.
• Museum of Forbidden Art. A special museum situated on a guard tower on the historical Berlin Wall (closed now, reopening questionable).
• Documentation Centre of the Berlin Wall, [36].
• Stasi (Secret Police) Museum, [37]. This museum describes the procedures applied by the DDR secret police. You can even walk through the former office of the director!

Private art galleries

As Berlin is a city of art, it is quite easy to find an art gallery on your way. They provide a nice opportunity to have a look at modern artists' work in a not so crowded environment for free. Some gallery streets with more than about a dozen galleries are Auguststrasse, Linienstrasse, Torstrasse, Brunnenstrasse (all Mitte, north of S-Bahn station Oranienburger Strasse) and Fasanenstrasse (Charlottenburg).

• Art Center Berlin Friedrichstraße, Friedrichstraße 134, tel. 030 27 87 90 20, [38]. Four floors of exibitions with a relatively good variety of genres and artists. A very nice oasis of calm from the busy Friedrichstrasse.

• Galerie Eigen & Art, Auguststrasse 26, tel. +49.30.280 6605, [39]. One of the most famous german art galleries, home to the Neue Leipziger Schule (Neo Rauch et al.)

Churches

As Berlin wasn't a very important town until the 17th century (and then it already became a protestant city), there are no really great churches in the city. However, there are some historically interesting and architecturally remarkable churches which are the following.

• Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtniskirche Highly symbolic church, dating back to 1891-95, with two completely new buildings aside the ruins of the World War II.

• Marienkirche Located near Alexanderplatz, this is not only the highest church tower in Berlin (90 m), but also one of the oldest churches left in the historical center of Berlin (which is totally teared down in this area). Entrance is free and inside are many treasures from the old days.

• Nikolaikirche The oldest church in Berlin, dating back to the beginning of 13th century (at least the stones next to the ground). Changing exhibitions inside, entrance free.

• St. Hedwigs Kathedrale Domed Church located at Bebelplatz/Unter den Linden, the oldest (mid 18th century) and one of the biggest catholic churches in Berlin, interior was redesigned in a modern style in the 1950s - but still many treasure chambers in the basement.

• Berliner Dom Easily the biggest and most impressive church, built at the turn of the century (19th/20th) as an expression of imperial power. Located next to the museum island. Entrance 5 Euro, you can climb on top of the dome (beautiful view over the Berlin center) then.

• Friedrichswerdersche Kirche Nice church located near Unter den Linden/Museum Island, finished 1830 by Schinkel - english neogothic style. Nice Exhibition inside (neoclassical statues and an exhibition about Schinkel's life and work upstairs), entrance free!

Landmarks with observation decks

While Berlin has relatively few high-rise buildings, there are several monuments with observation decks. Probably the most famous of all is the TV Tower near Alexanderplatz, the tallest tower in Germany and second largest in Europe, which has a rotating café at the top spinning 360 degrees in just 30 minutes! 40 seconds is all it takes to reach the top by lift. But there are also other great observation desks, the main ones are listed below (for others have a look in the district pages).

• Reichstag - the German parliament near the Brandenburg gate building has a large glass construction on top with a great view of Berlin. Be prepared for long lines and an extensive security check. Free entrance.
• Berliner Funkturm - 150 meter high lattice tower, with open-air observation deck 124 meter above ground. Only observation tower on insulators! Located in the Western fair district, out of city center.
• Berliner Fernsehturm on the Alexanderplatz - Germany's tallest construction, 368 meters high. Observation deck 204 metres above ground. Costs €8,50 as of May 2007.[40]
• Siegessäule (Victory Column) - An old (1865-1873), 60 meters high monument with panoramic view in the very center of the city. Unfortunately no elevator so be prepared for 285 steps. The statue of Victoria on the top is the place where the angels congregate in the famous film "Der Himmel über Berlin" by Wim Wenders. It has also become something of a symbol for the annual Love Parade techno music festival.
• Kollhoff Tower at Potsdamer Platz - Fastest elevator in europe takes you appr. 100 metres high. [41]
• Europa Center at Zoologisher Garten - Shopping center with a panorama floor at the 20th floor (90meter). In Budapesterstrasse, overlooking Kaiser-Wilhelm-Memorial Church. Entrance is €4 or €2 if you show a receipt from one of the restaurants in the Europa Center. [42]

History

Berlin does not attempt to hide the less savoury parts of its history: a visit to the Topography of Terror [43] (Mitte), for example, provides interesting but sobering insights into the activities of the Gestapo in Berlin during the Nazi years (1933-1945). Many of the walking tours also discuss scenes both of Nazi activity and Cold War tension and terror.

• Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, [44]. A recently opened (spring 2005) gigantic abstract artwork covering an entire block near the Brandenburg Gate, including an underground museum with extensive details on the Holocaust and the Jews who died during it. The blocks start out at ground level on the outer edges of the memorial, and then grow taller towards the middle, where the ground also slopes downwards. 3.5 million visitors in the first year make it one of the most visited memorials in Berlin - and it's worth it, as it's one of the most impressive memorials in Berlin.

• Berlin Wall. A large stretch of intact Wall can be found to the east of the city centre along the River Spree in Mühlenstraße near the Oberbaumbrücke. Known as the East Side Gallery [45], it is a section of the wall that is preserved as a gallery. This can be easily reached from Ostbanhof or Warschauer Strasse. It has many beautiful murals, politically motivated and otherwise. Another place to try is near the Martin Gropius Bau museum, currently under reconstruction. Two small pices are also in Potsamer Plaz and in its neighbourhood at the corner between Eberrtstraße and Bellevuestraße).

• Berlin Wall Memorial (Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer), [46]. (U-Bahn Bernauerstrasse U8 or S-Bahn Nordbahnhof S1, 2, or 25, follow the signs in the stations - wall is Mauer in German). Often missed by tourists but an absolute must for anyone interested in this part of the city's history. It's a memorial to those who died crossing so you won't, fortunately, get the tackiness of the Checkpoint Charlie area; instead you will be left with a haunting feeling of what life with the wall may have been really like. The monument itself is a gigantic wasted opportunity, blank and featureless. The inscription on the outside, declaring it a monument to the victims of the "communist reign of violence", has sparked emotional debates and angered many local residents. The documentation center across the street on Bernauer Str. is excellent although most of the documentation is in German. The viewing platform gives you a tiny hint of the true scale of the Wall and how terrifying the "no man's land" between the two sections of walls must have been.

• Checkpoint Charlie. Checkpoint Charlie, a crossing point between East and West Germany during the Cold War, is no more. Formerly, it was the only border crossing between East and West Germany that permitted foreigners passage. Residents of East and West Berlin were not allowed to use it. This contributed to Checkpoint Charlie's mythological status as a meeting place for spies and other shady individuals. Now the remains of the Berlin Wall have been moved to permit building, including construction of the American Business Center and other institutions not given to flights of John Le Carré-inspired fancy.

• Tempelhof airport was used in the Berlin Airlift (Berliner Luftbrücke) in 1948 and 1949, and featured in movies like Billy Wilders "One Two Three" with James Cagney, Horst Buchholz and Lilo Pulver. The terminal building is still fascinating: the halls and neighbouring buildings, intended to become the gateway to Europe, are still known as the largest built entities worldwide, and have been described by British architect Sir Norman Foster as "the mother of all airports".

Zoo

Berlin has two Zoos and one Aquarium. The Berlin Zoo in the City West is the historic Zoo that has been a listed company since its foundation. It's an oasis in the city and very popular with families and schools.

• The Berlin Zoo[47] is the zoo with the largest range of species in the world. It lies directly in the heart of the City West (opposite Bahnhof Zoo at Hardenbergplatz) and is especially famous for its Panda bears. The Elephant Gate (Budapester Straße) is the second entrance next to the Aquarium and a traditional photo stop for most visitors because of the architecture.
• The Tierpark Berlin[48] is located in Friedrichsfelde and is more spacious than the historic Berlin Zoo but has been in existence for only 50 years.
• The Aquarium[49] is part of the Berlin Zoo and is located at Budapester Straße in an historic building. Still the biggest Aquarium in Germany and hosts an amazing variety of fishes, crocodiles etc. One of the best places on a rainy day with children.

City tours

Explore

• Go on a Walking Tour of Berlin - the Mitte and surrounding districts are sufficiently compact to allow a number of excellent walking tours through its history-filled streets. You'll see amazing things you would otherwise miss. Details are usually available from the reception desks of hostels and hotels. Some options include:

• Guide yourself:

• If you prefer a private tour, there are several possibilities, such as:

• Jewish Tours

• Berlin is also great for cycling due to its many bike paths and flat geography.

• Virtual Tour

• Boat trips

• Trips for gays

Recreation

Pick up a copy of Exberliner [66], the monthly English-language paper for Berlin to find out what's on, when and where. It provides high quality journalism and up-to-date listings. If you understand German, the activity planners for the city, zitty [67] and tip [68], are available at every kiosk. Be prepared to choose among a huge amount of options.

• Parks

• Lakes, Beaches

Festivals

• The Berlin Film Festival / Berlinale [71]. The city's largest cultural event and an important fixture in the global film industry's calendar (up there with Cannes and Venice). 150,000 tickets sold, 500 films screened and a host of associated parties and events every year. In contrast to e.g. Cannes, most screenings at the Berlinale are open to the public. Tickets are inexpensive and relatively easy to get for the "International Forum of Young Film" screenings and the "Berlinale Panorama" (movies which are not in the competition).

• Lange Nacht der Museen – a large cultural event in january and august with museums open until 2 a.m. and extra events around the city. For details refer to the website [72] or call the InfoLine 90 26 99 444

• Fête de la Musique [73] 21st of June. Everywhere in Berlin there is different music on this day, which co-ordinates with a similar day in several French cities.

• In August (check the exact dates) you can find the nice Oberbaumbrücke Festival near the East Side Gallery, just under the Oberbaumbrücke. Artists are selling their works, amateur tango dancers are giving public performances and you can contribute to a collaborative painting on a very long canvas spread on the street along the festival.

Parades

• Loveparade [74] - This massive techno parade through Tiergarten to Brandenburg Gate with a final gathering at the Siegessäule takes place almost every summer. After a two year hiatus it was back on 15 July 2006. It won't take place in 2007. There are a lot of post-parade events in the clubs starting around 11 p.m.

• Fuck Parade [75] The Fuckparade (Hateparade in the early days) is at the same time as the Loveparade but with a big difference: the Fuckparade is political. The general motto of the Fuckparade is "against the destruction of the club scene". The other difference is the music played: mostly independent/alternative/extreme electronic music. It will take place in 2007.

• Hanf Parade End of August. The Hanfparade is the biggest European political demonstration for the legalization of hemp for use in agriculture and as a stimulant.

• Christopher Street Day - as the Germans name their gay prides - is a well-known annual political demonstration for the rights of the gay culture organized in all major German cities. Even if you are indifferent about the issue, the Christopher Street Day is usually a worthwhile sight as many participants show up in wild costumes.

• Karneval der Kulturen [76] In May or June (usually at Whit Sunday). The idea of the "Carnival of Cultures" is a parade of the various ethnic groups of the city showing traditional music, costumes and dances. Other more modern, alternative and political groups also participate. Similar events are also held in Hamburg and Frankfurt.

• Karneval [77] In late february or early march. As a lot of people reside in Berlin who originally came from the southern or western area of Germany, where Fasching, Fastnacht or Karneval is celebrated, a carnival parade was also established in Berlin. It grew bigger and bigger (about 500.000 to 1 million watching people), but the costumes and cars are rather boring and the people are not as dressed up as in the "original" big carnival parades (Cologne, Mainz, Düsseldorf). Since 2007 the traditional route across Kurfürstendamm was chosen.

Theatre, Opera, Concerts, Cinema

Berlin has a lot of theater houses, cinemas, concerts and other cultural events going on all the time. The most important ones are listed here.

Theater

• Deutsches Theater. Classical theater with impressive line up of actors and directors.
• Volksbühne am Rosa Luxemburg Platz. Sometimes controversial, modern theater.
• Schaubühne am Leniner Platz, [78]. Modern theater.
• Theater am Kurfürstendamm, [79]. Popular theater with tv celebrities in modern plays.
• Theater des Westens, [80]. A historic theater in the former West Berlin, only musicals today.
• Friedrichstadtpalast, [81]. Cabaret shows and revues with actresses from the former East German ballet.
• Berliner Esemble, [82]. Contemporary theater.

Opera

• Komische Oper, [83]. Modern operas.
• Deutsche Oper, [84]. Classic opera house of West Berlin.
• Staatsoper Unter den Linden, [85]. The impressive building and royal history make the building alone worth a visit.
• Neuköllner Oper, [86]. Voted several times best off-opera house and known for its modern and contemporary pieces. Most in German as usually relating to developments in Germany. Very creative and innovative.

Cinema There are about hundred cinemas in Berlin, however, most of them are showing movies only translated to german and without subtitles. Listed are some more important cinemas showing also movies in the original language (watch out for the OmU - original with subtitles - notation). Most movies which need translation to German are released a bit later in Germany. Tickets are normally 5 to 7 Euros. Monday to wednesday are special cinema days with reduced admission.

• Cinestar, [87]. The "Cinestar Original" Cinema located inside the Sony Center at the Potsdamerplatz shows only movies in English.
• Babylon Kreuzberg, [88] Also non-mainstream movies in this small cinema build in the 50ies.
• Central, [89] Repertory cinema located in an ex-squat near Hackesche Höfe.
• Eiszeit, [90] Kreuzberg.
• Filmtheater Hackesche Höfe, [91] located in the 4th floor of the Hackesche Höfe. Very broad range of movies.
• Neue Kant Kinos, [92] One of the few left old cinemas (founded 1912) in Berlins city west. Mostly non-mainstream european movies.

Concert Houses

• Philharmonie, [93]. Berlin Philharmonic orchestra is one of the best in the world. Famous building and outstanding musicians make a reservation essential. Cheaper tickets usually available 2-4 hours before the concert if not sold out.
• Konzerthaus at Gendarmenmarkt

Sport

In Berlin you can do virtually all sorts of sports

• The most popular sport is soccer, which is played all over the city. The Berlin FA [94] lists all the clubs. Not to be missed is the Olympic Stadium, which hosted the 2006 world cup final. Hertha Berlin, Berlin´s highest professional football team, plays there during the bundesliga season in spring, fall and winter.
• Public swimming pools can be found around the city. Check out BBB [95] for pool listings and opening times.
• Sailing on one of the many lakes is also popular. You can find sailing clubs and most universities have ships as well.
• Golf is popular as well: at U-Bahnstation Gleisdreieck, for instance, there is a driving range with an amazing view on Potsdamer Platz. You can find golf clubs all around Berlin, although for non-members Motzen has one of the best.
• Ice hockey: The Berlin Eisbaeren (Polar Bears) [96] play this fast, exciting and very physical sport during the winter. The excitement is heightened the singing and chanting of the crowds, who are fuelled by the copious quantities of wurst and beer available.
• NFL-Europa football is possible to be seen in the spring by the Berlin Thunder [97].
• Australian Football: The Berlin Crocodiles [98] host regular matches in the summer.

Spa

Spas are very trendy.

• Day Spa, [99]. In Riverside hotel next to the Friedrichstadtpalast.
• Club Olympus Spa. In Grand Hyatt Hotel at Potsdamer Platz.

Learn

Berlin has three major universities:

• Freie Universität, [100]. Founded after World War II in West Berlin and today the city's largest university by number of students, the Freie Universität has an impressive range of faculties and outstanding professors.
• Humboldt Universität, [101]. The oldest university in Berlin with an impressive record of alumni and professors – Albert Einstein, G.W.F. Hegel, Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels, to name but a few. During the Cold War it was the main university in East Berlin and after reunification there have been efforts to reinstate its former glory.
• Technische Universität, [102]. Technical university founded in West Berlin after World War II with a good reputation for its research.

There are several smaller universities and colleges in Berlin but the current restructure of the university makes it difficult to give an overview. The responsible senator of the City of Berlin has a good overview page.[103]

Work

The current economic climate is getting better but work is still not easy to find in Berlin. If you don't have a sound level of German it's unlikely that you will find work easily. Any kind of skills (especially languages) that separates you from the mass will defintely improve your chances for a job.

If you are an EU citizen, a student or have a work permit you may be able to scrape by teaching English (Spanish, French, Latin are good, too) or working in a bar but it'll be tough, there's not much work around. Chances are better when big trade fairs or conventions are in town, so apply at temp agencies. Hospitality and call centers are constantly hiring but the illegal workforce is keeping wages low.

Berlin has a growing media, modelling and film industry. For daily soaps, telenovelas and movies most companies are looking for extras with something specific. Apply at the bigger casting and acting agencies.

For English-language jobs, if might be worth checking out the classfied ads of the monthly magazine for English-speakers, Exberliner [104].

Shopping, Berlin souvenirs

Due to federal liberalisation, shopping hours are theoretically unlimited. Nevertheless, many of the smaller shops still close at 8 p.m. Most of the bigger stores and nearly all of the malls are open additionally until 9 or 10 p.m. from Thursday to Saturday. Sunday opening is still limited to about a dozen weekends per year, although some supermarkets located at train stations (Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten, Friedrichstrasse, Innsbrucker Platz and Ostbahnhof) are open also on Sundays. Many bakeries and small food stores (called Spätkauf) are open late at night and on Sundays in busier neighbourhoods (especially Prenzlauer Berg, Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain). Stores inside the Hauptbahnhof central station have long opening hours (usually until about 10 or 11 p.m.), also on Sundays.

The main shopping areas are:

Ku'damm and its extension, Tauentzienstraße remain the main shopping streets even now that the Wall has come down. KaDeWe (Kaufhaus Des Westens) at Wittenbergplatz is a must visit even if just for the vast food dept at the 6th floor. It's reputedly the biggest department store on Continental Europe and still has an old world charm, with very helpful and friendly staff.

Friedrichstrasse is the upmarket shopping street in the former East Berlin with Galerie Lafayettes and the other Quartiers (204 to 207) as main areas to be impressed with wealthy shoppers. The renovated Galeria Kaufhof department store at Alexanderplatz is also worth a visit. The main shopping area for the alternative, but still wealthy crowd is north of Hackescher Markt, especially around the Hackesche Höfe. For some more affordable but still very fashionable shopping there is Prenzlauer Berg, Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain with a lot of young designers opening shops, but also lots of record stores and design shops. Constant changes make it hard to recommend a place though, but the area around station Eberswalder Strasse in Prenzlauer Berg, around Bergmannstrasse and Oranienstrasse in Kreuzberg and around Boxhagener Platz in Friedrichshain are always great when it comes to shopping.

If looking for cheap books a nice choice is Jokers Restseller in Friedrichstrasse 148 (Tel 030 20 45 84 23) where you can find many interesting remainders. For souvenirs, have a look just in front of the Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtniskirche, these shops sell almost the same items as others, but are cheaper, not all the staff speaks English though. You can also get cheap postcards there (from €0.30 while the average price for normal postcard is €0.50-0.80). For collectible stamps go to Goethe Strasse 2 (Ernst Reuter Platz, U2), where you can find a Philatelic Post Office from the Deutsche Post. They generally speak English. For alternative souvenirs (design, fashion and small stuff from Berlin designers and artists), go to ausberlin [105] near Alexanderplatz, it's a bit hidden at the other side of Kaufhof at the Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse.

Flea markets

You can find dozens of flea markets with different themes in Berlin (mostly on weekends), but worth checking out is the big one at Strasse des 17. Juni:

• Strasse des 17. Juni, in front of Ernst-Reuter-Haus (S-bahn: Tiergarten). Sat Sun 10AM-5PM. Mostly antique and mixed old stuff, but also some artistic goods. Not cheap though, keep in mind that most of the traders are professionals who know what to get for their goods. But you can nearly always bargain.

Other flea markets are a bit more secluded, try Boxhagener Platz in Friedrichshain, Arkonaplatz in Mitte and at Mauerpark in Prenzlauer Berg for instance. Have a look at the district pages for more information.

Fashion

Fashion from Berlin is getting more and more popular, it's mostly known for spontaneous and experimental/underground fashion, which is affordable. Some notable Berlin fashion streets:

• Wühlischstr. in Friedrichshain (get off at S-Bahn Warschauer Str.)
• around S-Bahn station Hackescher Markt and U-Bahn station Weinmeisterstrasse in Mitte
• Oranienstrasse in Kreuzberg.
• Kastanienallee/Oderberger Strasse (station Eberswalder Strasse)

The more conservative and expensive big brand stores (Armani, Gucci, Joop, Boss...) are located at Friedrichstrasse and Kurfürstendamm.

Record shops

Berlin is known for its vast number of record stores. Especially techno record shops can be found at many places in the centre (Mitte, Prenzlauer Berg, Kreuzberg, Friedrichshain). If you want to get the latest techno and house productions from around the world, Berlin is the place to shop. The main areas for shopping records are

• around Mehringdamm/Bergmannstrasse, Oranienstrasse and Schlesisches Tor in Kreuzberg
• around station Eberswalder Strasse in Prenzlauer Berg
• around Simon-Dach-Strasse and Boxhagener Platz in Friedrichshain
• Maaßenstrasse in Schöneberg
• northern Mitte (Torstrasse, around station Weinmeisterstrasse and Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz)

Good restaurants and cheap meals

Eating out in Berlin is incredibly inexpensive compared to any other Western European capital or other German cities. The city is multicultural and many cultures' cuisine is represented here somewhere, although it is often modified to suit German tastes. Vegetarians can eat quite well with a little bit of research and menu modification even if Berlin seems like a carnivore heaven with all the sausage stands. Many kebap restaurants have a good selection of roasted vegetables and salads. Falafels are also tasty and suitable for vegetarians.

All prices must include VAT by law. The upmarket restaurants may ask for a further service surcharge. Note that it is best to ask if credit cards are accepted before you sit down -- it's not that common to accept credit cards in some parts of the city. Most likely to be accepted are Visa and Mastercard, all other cards will be only accepted in some upmarket restaurants.

One of the main tourist areas for eating out is Hackescher Markt / Oranienburger Strasse. This area has dramatically changed during the years: once full of squats and not-entirely-legal bars and restaurants, it had some real character. It is rapidly being developed and corporatized, and even the most famous squat - the former Jewish-owned proto-shopping mall "Tacheles" - has had a bit of a facelift. There are still some gems in the side streets, though: the "Assel" (Woodlouse) on Oranienburger Strasse, furnished with DDR-era furniture, is still relatively authentic and worth a visit, especially on a warm summer night. Oranienburger Strasse is also an area where prostitutes line up at night, but don't be put off by this. The area is actually very safe since several administrative and religious buildings are located there.

For cheap and good food (especially from Turkey and the Middle East) you should try Kreuzberg and Neukölln with their abundance of Indian, pizza and Döner Kebap restaurants (Berlin was the birthplace of the Döner Kebap about 30 years ago). Prices start from 1,50 € for a Kebap or Turkish pizza (different from the original Italian recipe and ingredients). If you are looking for a quick meal you could try getting off at Görlitzer Bahnhof or Schlesisches Tor on the U1 line - the area is filled with inexpensive, quality restaurants.

Kastanienallee is a good choice too - but again not what it used to be since the developers moved in (much less exploited than Hackescher Markt, though). It's a popular area with artists, students and has a certain Bohemian charm. Try Imbiss W, at the corner of Zionskirchstr. and Kastanienallee, where they serve superb Indian-fusion food, mostly vegetarian, at the hands of artist-chef Gordon W. Further up the street is the Prater Garten, Berlin's oldest beer garden and an excellent place in the summer.

Waiters and tipping

The custom in Berlin is to tell the waiter how much you're paying when you receive the bill - don't leave the money on the table. If there is confusion with the tip, remember to ask for your change, Wechselgeld (money back).

Normally a 5-10% tip is OK (or round up to the next Euro) if you are satisfied with the service, but remember that even if waiters don't get paid much anywhere, in Europe they are not dependent on tips to make a living as they are in the U.S., and it is possible to live on one's hourly wage. If the service has been very good and friendly feel free to tip more (especially when they help you with the language!).

Restaurants

All restaurant recommendation are in the corresponding borough articles of

• Kreuzberg & Friedrichshain (young and independent student area with big turkish community in Kreuzberg)
• City West/Charlottenburg (heart of West Berlin with nice and good quality restaurants)
• Mitte (political and new center of East Berlin with upmarket restaurants)
• Schöneberg (city slickers and street cafe feeling)
• Pankow (buzzling Prenzlberg and its lively student scene)

Breakfast

It is very common to go out for breakfast at weekends for brunch (long breakfast together with lunch, all you can eat buffet, usually from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and for 3 to 10 euro - sometimes including coffee, tea or juice). Here are some special tips (see the district pages for further):

For children

• Charlottchen, Droysenstraße 1, tel. 030-324 47 17. Buffet breakfast and institution for parents and prepared for children of all ages, indoor play room!
• Strandbad Mitte, Kleine Hamburger Straße 16, tel. 030-24 62 89 63. Playground next to the restaurant and good breakfast.

Buffet breakfast (brunch)

• Cafe Sarotti-Höfe, Mehringdamm 57, tel. 030-61 62 09 39. Located in a former chocolate factory with buffet for 5 Euros! U6/U7, Mehringdamm.
• Operncafé, Unter den Linden 5, tel. 030- 20 26 83. Sundays a Jazz brunch with live music in rococo atmosphere (reservation strongly recommended), all other days nice buffet. Bahnhof Friedrichstraße.
• Grüne Lampe, Uhlandstraße 51, tel. 030-88 71 93 93. Excellent Russian breakfast buffet.

Individual style

• Telecafé, Panoramastraße 1a, tel. 030-242 33 33. Enjoy breakfast and city view right at the top of the Fernsehturm.
• Dachgartenrestaurant Käfer, Platz der Republik 1, tel. 030-22 62 99 0. Breakfast from 9-10:30 am at the top of the Germany's parliament.

Upper-class

• Café im Literaturhaus, Fasanenstraße 23, tel. 030-882 54 14. Classical style, waiters in livreé.
• Desbrosses, Potsdamer Platz 3, tel. 030-337 77 64 00. The Ritz Carlton imported a whole French brasserie which freshly bakes bread.

Berlin nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs.

Pub crawling is popular in Berlin, especially among backpackers. There are several tour companies but the best known pub crawl for backpackers is organised by New Berlin Tours. Keep in mind that you won't get into the cooler bars that way as they try to keep the doors closed for pub crawl tourists.

• At Warschauer Straße (which you can reach via S-Bahn and U-Bahn station Warschauer Straße) and more specifically Simon-Dach-Straße and around Boxhagener Platz you can find a wide variety of bars, from lunch bars to cocktail bars to sport bars to alternative bars to comfy waterpipe bars. It is common for locals to meet at Warschauer to go to a bar there.

• Cafe Einstein is one particular example of a home grown coffee chain which has nice staff, great coffee and is fairly priced. In particular, the Einstein on Unter den Linden is as far from "junk coffee" as it's possible to be.

• There are lots of Irish bars all over the city, as there are in all European cities. If you like off-the-shelf Irish bars or watching the football in English then you won't be disappointed, but in a city with new cool bars opening pretty much daily and a huge range to choose from, you'll find that these cater mostly to the Irish construction workers and Germans attracted by Irish music, which is often played in them. The Irish pub in the Europacenter at Tauenzien Strasse is famous. Located in the basement of a skyscraper, you will find a big Irish pub and a rowdy crowd on the weekend.

• If you want to get some tap water in a bar ask for "Leitungswasser" (if you just say "water" (Wasser), you will receive mineral water), it is common if you drink coffee. They should not charge you for it but you should order some other drink as well.

Berlin nightlife, bars, clubs and pubs.

Berliners love to drink cocktails, and it's a main socialising point for young people. Many people like to meet their friends in a cocktail bar before clubbing. Prenzlauer Berg (Around U-Bahnhof Eberswalder Str., Helmholtzplatz, Oderberger Straße & Kastanienallee), Kreuzberg (Bergmannstraße, Oranienstraße and the area around Görlitzer Park and U-Bahnhof Schlesisches Tor), Schöneberg (Goltzstraße, Nollendorfplatz, Motzstraße for gays), and Friedrichshain (Simon-Dach-Strasse and around Boxhagener Platz) are the main areas. There aren't as many illegal bars as there was in the 90s but bars open and close faster than you can keep up with - check out the bar and cocktail guides in the bi-weekly magazines Tip or Zitty. For recommended bars, have a look at the district pages.

Clubs

For more clubs, have a look at the district pages.

The club scene in Berlin is assumably one of the biggest and most progressive in Europe. Even though there are some 200 clubs in the city it's sometimes difficult to find the right club for you since the best ones are a bit off the beaten track and most bouncers will keep bigger tourist groups (especially males) out. Entrance is cheap compared to other big European cities, normally from 5 to 10 euro (usually no drink included).

The main clubbing districts are in the east: Mitte (especially north of Hackescher Markt and - a bit hidden - around Alexanderplatz), Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg (around Schlesisches Tor) and Prenzlauer Berg (around station Eberswalder Str.). Some mainstream clubs are located in Charlottenburg and at Potsdamer Platz. Electro and techno are still the biggest in Berlin, with lots of progressive DJs and live acts around. But there are also many clubs playing 60s beat, alternative rock and of course mainstream music. Clubbing days are Thursday, Friday and especially Saturday, but some clubs are open every day of the week. Partying in Berlin starts around midnight (weekends) and peaks around 2AM or 3AM in the normal clubs, a bit later in many electro/techno clubs. Berlin is famous for its long and decadent after hours, going sometimes on until Monday evening.

Stylish

• 40 seconds, Potsdamer Straße 58, tel. 030-890 642 41, [106]. Posh club with dinner area and amazing view over the Potsdamer Platz. Mainstream R'n'B, House and Black Music.
• Bungaluu, Invalidenstrasse 30, tel 030-809 690 77, [107]. Stylish club and luxury bed-restaurant (up to 10 course dinner) in a former post office. House and black music mainly.
• Week-End, Am Alexanderplatz 5 (the building with the Sharp sign on top), [108]. Located in the 12th floor of a GDR office building. Tuesday and Thursday to Saturday (check dates at website) from midnight onwards. Amazing views over the city in classical club style for young people. Parties till the dawn. Recently complemented by the new club 15th Floor in the same building, open on Saturdays from 2AM onwards, additionally open on Wednesday. Electro, techno and house, sometimes hip hop (Wednesday at 15th floor).

Kreuzberg-Friedrichshain

• Watergate, [109]. Great electronic/drum'n'bass club with two floors directly at the Spree river - great panoramic view. Open Wednesday (only one floor), Friday, Saturday. Take the U1 to Schlesisches Tor or the Tram M10 to Warschauer Strasse (last stop) and then cross the bridge. Door policy discriminates against English speakers.
• Maria am Ostbahnhof, [110]. Cool location with lots of progressive live sets and concerts (mainly Electro/Techno, but also Independent/Alternative Pop/Rock concerts). Go to Ostbahnhof, then walk to Schillingbrücke (map on the website).
• Berghain/Panorama Bar, [111]. A huge techno club with a gay majority (Berghain) in an old power generation plant. Be prepared for a tough door policy. Not for teenagers, no cameras allowed (even mobiles with a camera are confiscated). Open Saturdays; Panorama Bar (mainly straight crowd) upstairs additionally on Fridays. Parties until Sunday afternoon.

Schöneberg

• KitKatClub, Bessemerstrasse 2/14, [112]. A very famous address, a unique clubbing concept mixing techno/electro/trance music with sexual freedom. Be careful and open-minded, and respect the strict dresscode. Nonstop party from Saturday night to Sunday evening.

Mitte

• Tresor, Köpenicker Str. 59-73. [113] Maybe THE Berlin Techno club, which was closed 2005. It's reopening May 24th (Sven Väth is headliner) in an old power plant in the southeast of Berlin-Mitte.
• Kaffe Burger/Russendisko, Torstrasse 60, tel 030-280 464 95. Bar and club with GDR living room atmosphere. Russendisko is performed every second saturday by author Wladimir Kaminer. Sometimes live music (Neo-Polka).
• White Trash Fast Food, Schönhauser Allee 6-7, tel. 0179 473 26 39. Chinese decoration in the location of an ex big Irish pub makes you feel like in a Tarantino movie. Alternative concerts, cowboy hats, beards and 60s to 70s style - if those are your things then you have a new home. Also restaurant with great burgers and self brewed beer.

Hotels, youth hostels, lodging

After the end of the Cold War Berlin witnessed a construction boom of hotels and offices. Today there are lots of hotels which results in comparatively cheap prices even in the 5 star category. Especially for a short visit it may be the best to stay at a place in Berlin-Mitte (around Friedrichstrasse or Alexanderplatz for example), as most of the main sights are located there. Due to its history, most hotels in Berlin are still located in the western part of town (i.e. Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf). You won't find any hotel located directly at the new main train station, but they planned to build some in the near future. Cheapest are youth hostels (called Jugendherbergen, only for members) and hostels (similar to youth hostels, but for everyone, mostly backpackers stay here, usually also with one and two-bed rooms), you will find also bed and breakfast offers (often private) and boarding houses (Pension, more familiar and smaller then hotels).

Check the district pages for individual accommodation listings. Popular hotel districts include:

• Mitte
• Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf
• Pankow
• Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg

Talk

Most people under 40 in Berlin are able to speak English in a varying degree of fluency, but it might not be as widely spoken as you might expect, so a few key German phrases are worth having, especially in the suburbs and generally in non touristic places.

Some people are afraid of speaking English due to their limited experience in talking to foreigners. So a lot of people pretend not to speak English but might understand your intention if you explain your desire with some gestures. Basic French and Russian is partly spoken because French in West Berlin and Russian in East Berlin were taught in schools.

There are some words in Berlin that differ from regular German, especially in the former East Berlin the language preserved a certain level of dialect.

Schrippe: Roll

Stulle: Sandwich

Broiler: grilled chicken

Pfannkuchen: doughnut (without a hole in the middle but with filling)

Molle: small glass of beer

Contact

You can find Internet cafes and telephone shops all around Berlin. Do a bit of research with the telephone shops because most have a focus region in the world. Many bars, restaurants and cafes offer free wi-fi for their guests.

The mobile network (3G/GPRS/GSM) covers the whole city. If you are coming from a non-GSM standard country (eg. North America) check your mobile phone for GSM compatibility.

A free wireless network covers parts of Berlin, but requires special software on your computer. For more information and maps of Berlin with coverage, see http://www.olsrexperiment.de/

Stay safe

Berlin is a safe place compared to most other cities of similar size but it has its share of problems as well. No specific rules apply with the exception of public transportation and tourist areas where pickpockets are a problem. Watch your bags during rush hours and at larger train stations. No borough of Berlin would be much of a comparison to American "ghettos" in terms of crime, though.

Since the 1980s there have been localized riots on Labour Day (1st of May). In general they took and take place in Kreuzberg around Oranienstraße/Mariannenplatz. Nowadays they start usually in the night before May 1st, especially in the Mauerpark (Prenzlauer Berg), at Boxhagener Platz and in Rigaer Str. (Friedrichshain) and continue at the evening of May 1st in Kreuzberg and the mentioned areas. They became rather small since 2005 due to engagement of the citizens who celebrate the Labour Day with a nice "myfest" in Kreuzberg and well-planned police efforts. Even so, it is better to stay out of these areas after 8pm and until sunrise. Vehicles should not be parked in these areas either!

Racially-motivated violence is rare but the risk is higher on the outskirts of East Berlin. It is recommended for non-Caucasian tourists to be attentive in areas such as Lichtenberg, Hellersdorf, Marzahn, Treptow and Köpenick in the evening and night, especially if alone. Rule of thumb: when heading to the eastern part of Berlin, stay inside the S-Bahn-Ring (number S41, S42) and you'll be alright.

The police in Berlin are competent and not corrupt. They are generally helpful to tourists. Most of the officers are able to speak English, so don't hesitate to approach them if you are frightened or lost.

The nationwide emergency number is 112 for medical emergencies and fires, while the police emergency number is 110.

Prostitution

Prostitution is a legal business in Germany. Due to the World Cup politicians and the media made a big fuss about it during that time. Berlin has no major red-light district like Hamburg or Amsterdam but mostly apartments or brothels spread through out the city. The Oranienburger Straße (Mitte) is (in)famous for its prostitutes, though. The proximity to Eastern Europe and the bad economic situation in Berlin have lead to a big increase in the number of prostitutes. Advertisements are in the tabloids, some newspapers and Internet. Human trafficking and illegal immigrants are a major problem, therefore police raids are fairly common to close down illegal places.

Get out

• Sachsenhausen located in outer Oranienburg, a quiet suburb housing the remains of one of the Nazi concentration camps on German soil. There's also a small castle in the center of Oranienburg.
• Potsdam is the capital of the surrounding federal state of Brandenburg and not far away southwest of Berlin and makes a perfect day trip. Especially the park of Sanssouci with its famous castles is worth a visit. You can get there with the S-Bahn S1 or Regional-Bahn RE1 to the station Potsdam Hauptbahnhof or Park Sanssouci (fare zone C). It takes about half an hour.
• Bernau is a medium-sized town north of Berlin, with some medieval remains from the 14th and 15th century such as a city wall and the late Gothic church St. Marien. The S-Bahn S2 takes you there in half an hour.
• The Müritz lake region to the north is a national park with some hundred lakes.
• Frankfurt (Oder) on the Polish border is within easy reach.
• The beautiful Baltic seashore (e.g., Usedom or Wolin) is near enough for a day trip by train.
• Szczecin(Stettin) in Poland is about two and a half hours by train.
• To the south, Dresden and Leipzig are about two hours by train.
• The Raststaette Grunewald at the S-bahn station Nikolassee is a good spot for hitching if you're heading south or west.

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