Annapurna Circuit
This article is an itinerary.
The Annapurna Circuit is in Nepal.
Culture and History
Was once considered one of the best treks in Nepal, though road construction is threatening its reputation and its future as a classic trek. Yet no one disputes that the scenery is outstanding: 17 to 21 days long, this trek takes you through distinct sceneries of rivers, flora, fauna and above all - mountains. The trek goes counter-clockwise and reaches its summit in Thorung La (pass) at the height of 5416m, or more than 16,000 feet. The route goes past the following mountains: Manaslu (an 8,000-plus meter peak), Langtang Himal, Annapurna II and IV, Annapurna III and Gangapurna, and, of course, Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri -- passing through the world's deepest gorge in between those two 8,000-plus meter peaks. Poon Hill, at the end of the trek, affords views of those two mountains, as well as South Annapurna and Macchupucchre, the "Fishtail Mountain." The trek also goes through Buddhist villages and Hindu holy sites, most notably the village of Muktinath, a holy site for both Buddhists and Hindus.
The eastern portion of the trek follows the Marsyangdi River upstream, to its source near the village of Manang. To get there requires several days of up-hill hiking. Then the route goes over the pass, a grueling day of hiking, and back down the other side, where it meets up with the Kali Gandaki River. The trek follows this river downstream. At the end of the trek, several options are available: following the river further, to the road proper, and catching a bus to Pokhara, hiking up to Ghorepani and Poon Hill, or adding on a trek to the Annapurna Base Camp, known as the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek.
This is a "teahouse trek," meaning there are villages with lodges and restaurants to eat and stay in along the entire route. You are expected to eat in the same lodge where you are spending the night. Prices of rooms are seemingly inexpensive because of this -- lodge owners tend to make more money on the food and drinks they are selling you than on the room where you are sleeping.
Prepare
While travel agents will say it is necessary to hire a guide and a porter this tea-house trek is so easy it is not required at all. The path is easy to follow and every three hours (max) you will a small village with lodges and restaurants. There are many trekkers around so you always end up meeting people and making friends and trekking partners along the path.
If choosing to make the trek independently, go out with adequate clothing for low tempatures and rain. Temperatures vary from oppressive heat in the lowlands, to freezing cold, even snowstorms, closer to the pass.
Important: Bring a sleeping bag rated for winter temperatures. Linens are not provided by the lodges, and nights can get very cold. Warm blankets are provided so it is possible to use a basic two-season sleeping bag.
Everyday supplies, such as toilet paper, soap, Snickers bars, and even hiking supplies like headlamps and fleece jackets can be purchased along the way, though prices rise dramatically as you go higher in elevation. Try to stock up lower down.
Maps are easy to get -- and very inexpensive -- in either Kathmandu or Pokhara. While you're in Kathmandu or Pokhara, don't forget to get your permit, which is required and available in either city. It'll cost you 2,000 NPR, or $40-something USD. While the path is easy to follow be aware that these maps should not be used for critical navigation as they are not very accurate. However they are useful for pointing out the various mountains.
Officials do check your permit at several places along the way, and the checkpoints are virtually impossible to avoid. You'll have to pay double, or 4,000 NPR, if you're caught without the permit.
Bring along a sufficant amount of money for the entire trek, though you can either cash traveler's checks or hit an ATM in Jomsom. A day on the lower villages of the trek can cost 300NRs (Food and accommodation only). A day in the higher points of the trail can cost 900NRs. You can do the trek for about $10 USD a day if you go independently. Budget for 1000NR per day, though backpackers on a budget can get by with half.
Before you go, check on the status of the road being built on the western portion of the trek. In the fall of 2007, the road, and the construction of the road, interferred with trekking, and could negatively impact treks here in the future, though it could provide easier access for other, shorter treks. A road is also being built on the other side from Besisahar to Chame -- check with other tourists who have already done the trek for the latest (locals tend to talk up the road and downplay its negative aspects). Be advised: roadwalks in Nepal are very unpleasant, and unhealthy, due in part to the lack of emissions standards in the country.
Be prepared for all manner of bathrooms. Sometimes you'll get a modern flush toilet with private access, other times you'll have to venture out in the cold to use a smelly squat toilet. Even so, all lodges have running water. However, it may not always be HOT water. Typically, the first two or three people to get in the shower get the hot water. If you need a hot shower, get to your lodge early!
Tours & Getting around Annapurna Circuit
The trek typically starts in the village of BhuleBhule. Buses will get you from Kathmandu to Besishar in a drive that is quite spectacular in itself for the Middle Hills scenery you pass through and the narrow, windy road. From Besisahar to BhuleBhule you will have to take a jeep or an even older local bus. Tourist and local buses are available. But don't let the "tourist" label fool you. Chances are good you'd be the only Westerner on the tourist bus, since they are also popular with the locals who can afford them. They tend to be more comfortable (though it's still a jolting ride), and faster. Local buses take much longer, are much less comfortable, carry very few tourists, but are cheaper, if you're pinching pennies. The ride on a tourist bus takes 5 or 6 hours.
Though not required, porters and/or guides can be easily hired in Pokhara or Kathmandu at many travel agencies. As a classic "tea-house trek," which goes from village to village and does not require trekkers to bring along food or camping equipment, porters and guides are far from necessary, though many trekkers still like to use them.
If you do hire a porter or a guide, Nepali tourism officials ask that you make sure you pay a fair wage, limit the weight you require them to carry, and ensure they are properly clothed. Pay attention to their health when you get up in elevation, since some porters may not tell you if they feel ill. Altitude sickness is potentially fatal if ignored.
Depending on where you end your trek, buses and taxis are available to take you to Pokhara, a great place on a lake to spend a few days unwinding and relaxing. Kathmandu is about a 6-hour bus ride from Pokhara, easily arranged once you're ready to leave the lakeside town.
You can try and walk the lower stages at a faster pace maybe combining two of them into one so that more time can be spent on acclimatization on the higher stages, for example a couple of extra days can be spent at Manang and utilized by climbing to one of the many peaks around it and coming back down so as to increase the production of red blood cells. You can also see the origin of the Marsyandi river in Manang. Thes best part about this trek is the varied scenery it has to offer. You start from tropical forest in Besisahar, see terminal moraine near Manang and then move past the snow line across the Thorung La and then to the barren landscape of lower Mustang and Muktinath.
Side trips
Tilicho Tal
The highest lake in the world at 4920 m. Requires 2-3 days from Manang. Walk through Khangasar. 1-2 hours after Khangasar you will find Tilicho Peak Hotel where you can have lunch or spend the night. Tilicho Base Camp Hotel is a further three hour walk from there. The lower route is the safest but has many landslide areas. The lake is reached by walking three hours up from the Tilciho Base Camp Hotel at approximately 4100 m. Snow leopards are around in this area but you are more likely to see blue sheep and yaks. Being at the lake can be cold as it can be very windy. Going back it is possible to walk from Tilicho Peak Hotel directly to Yak Kharka via Old Khangasar so you do not have to backtrack all the way to Manang.
Stay safe
Treks in the popular trails of Nepal are usually safe, but it is always advisable to trek with at least one friend. Some trails are known for encounters with desperate bandits although this is fairly rare. Check with locals to get the latest on the Maoists -- they still like to collect money from trekkers in some locations.
Learn about altitude sickness before you set out on this trek. Also see your doctor before leaving home to make sure you have all the proper vaccinations, and that you bring with you all of the medications you will need (antibiotics and altitude medicine are good things to have).
For tips on foods to eat while on your trek, check out this article: http://hubpages.com/hub/What-to-eat-in-Nepal
Leave No Trace
Even though the trek goes through villages, with electricity and flushing toilets, Leave No Trace principals still apply, since most of the trek is still in the "backcountry." There are no ways to deal with trash away from the roads, meaning trash is either packed out on foot, or ends up a heap somewhere on the outskirts of the village.
Please make sure you pack out all of your trash, including bottles and cans from goods consumed in restaurants. Bring the trash to the nearest truck-accessible road for the most proper disposal available.
Trekkers are also asked to refrain from relying on bottled water, since there is nowhere to dispose of the used bottles. Filtering or treating your water will reduce the amount of trash left behind in this fragile environment. Iodine pills are a cheap, lightweight solution.
Take the time to look at the pollution and lack of trash management all around you, from the trash-clogged rivers in the cities to the mounds of discarded beer bottles in the mountain villages. This is a country struggling with its rapid Westernization, and hasn't yet figured out how to dispose of its waste. Don't contribute to the problem any more than necessary!
This page was last edited at 10:34, on 5 September 2008 by Eric. Based on work by Espen Antonsen, Evan Prodromou, Itamar Berman, Felix Gottwald and Moti Cohen, Wikitravel user(s) Rachitparekh, Morph and Pashley and Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel.
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